Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 18 July 2015, 16:50:05
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I ordered a timing belt kit many moons ago that had the cam and crank marks on but they didn't line up with said cam and crank marks on the engine ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
has someone got a link to a contitech kit that a.) has the marks in the correct place and b.) will have the correct backing plate (this not so critical as I know I can swap the tensioner and idler to my existing backplate).
I also know you can do the timing belt without these.....but after my experience a few years ago :-[ ::) im not taking any more chances.
tia :y
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"Marks are irrelevant as long as you`ve got the locking kit
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They may be irrelevant but every time ive seen it done (on the dvd and tb round mine) they were used. id rather have them
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I couldn't get the marks on mine to line up either time I fitted it. The timing set does all that properly for you, so why worry about it. Mine has lasted 4.5 years and about 35k miles that way.
Yes, I know it's due, and I have the replacement and crank oil seal on the bench for when I'm off in August.
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just very concerned following the last time I attempted this :'(
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Bloody belt marks are more trouble than their worth. Ignore them. Oh! Yes you have no choice do you? ;D
Seriously, you don't need them. Not had a belt yet with them on, the locking kit is all that's important and the belt marks are only relevant for the first revolution anyway. After that they are lost in randomness :y
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thanks chris.
how do I then ensure I'm not a tooth out when I pull it up over the tensioner and over the first bank of cams?
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....when ive done belts on other cars ive fitted them to the crank, fitted them round the water pump, idler, tensioner etc and when it gets to the cam they seem to ''sit'' nicely in place without much force.
this the case here?
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I ordered a timing belt kit many moons ago that had the cam and crank marks on but they didn't line up with said cam and crank marks on the engine ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::) ::)
has someone got a link to a contitech kit that a.) has the marks in the correct place and b.) will have the correct backing plate (this not so critical as I know I can swap the tensioner and idler to my existing backplate).
I also know you can do the timing belt without these.....but after my experience a few years ago :-[ ::) im not taking any more chances.
tia :y
Still haven't forgotten that trip to symes :-[ I can see why your a bit weary about it ::)
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Egg-zactly steve :'(
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thanks chris.
how do I then ensure I'm not a tooth out when I pull it up over the tensioner and over the first bank of cams?
Buy doing it anti clockwise. Crank with wedge, idler, cam 4 then 3, then middle idler, then 2 and 1, hold belt in place, remove tensioner and re fit it with the belt in the tensioner. Takes some wiggling, but what red blooded male doesn't like some wiggling? ;)
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;D thanks chris.
tb's kindly overseeing things so I know ill be ok. just want to make sure it don't go boom again
when you do it anti clock wise are you having to put much force to get the belt on so it isn't out a tooth? ive done 3 now and every time they've slooted nicely on the cams and that's been bang on.
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It's not under tension until it's, er, tensioned, so should sit in the teeth nicely. Ie shouldn't be trying to jump out. Bearing in mind the 2.5 has an adjustable bottom pulley so there's room to darken that off, fit the belt, then move the idler accordingly. :)
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yeah sorry what I meant was...
as your crank is locked are you then pulling the belt up as hard as you can over the cams (before tensioning) to get it in to place
or
as you route the belt should it all ''fall'' in to place...then you tension it?
sorry if im not making sense. its late and im shatterd :-[
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Bit of both, but most often the belt pops into place, as the belt teeth fit into the toothed can wheels. There's also often an element of fitting the belt so it's off the end of them cam wheel to allow the idler to be fitted, as there isn't any sideways give in the belt. So you have to slide the belt on/away from you towards the engine in order to get everything in place, before you can tension the idler.
Sorry that not what you asked ;D being specific, from crank to cam 4, you have the idler in between. You can run the belt up over the idler, then round the cam wheel, pull it tight and it might very well pop in as the belt teeth drop in to the cam wheel teeth. Or, you could remove the idler, run the belt loosely somewhere thereabouts to cam 4 and then fit the idler and see where you are. Might need to shuffle the belt back or forward a tooth to get the idler in loosely. Then just lean the idler against the belt to take up the slack enough for the belt to look like its on a straight run, then nip it up.
There's no absolute one way as to how to do it, as long as the marks line up after its cranked over a revolution by hand, the tensioner is on the correct mark, and all the bolts are torqued correctly, you'll be fine. :)
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Yeah, as you can probably tell, bit tired myself ;D ;)
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on the contrary chris that's exactly what I was after, thank you :y
as said, when I did my timing belts on other cars they slipped on nicely. but ive seen others done by the other mechanics (vw work van springs to mind) where there belt is half on the teeth as youmentioned, then the tensioner fitted and its ll very tight (I think the vw van was cos it was a really thick and tight belt.
I think for this purpose it will be good to get the TB round and he can supervise me and I can see these issues crop up in real time :y
thanks for your help mate :y