Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Andy A on 05 August 2015, 20:26:29
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I have been told the front o/s caliper is sticking by my garage who did the clutch for me.
I have just put new VX front discs and pads in since and gave the car a full brake fluid change. I also pushed all caliper pistons back to get rid of as much of the old fluid as possible but the car still pulls to the left when braking. All looked fine and the caliper was free moving.
I will be replacing the caliper myself. Is it OK to replace with a second hand or a generic third party one or is it best to get a new VX one?
Thanks
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Interesting.... new pads and discs and calipers free moving. Yet still a pull when braking.
Are the new pads in there free to move or did you have to force them in?
Did the caliper push back with ease or did it take a bit of muscle?
Did you clamp the brake hose off when you pushed piston back and drained fluid from the bleeder?
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Interesting.... new pads and discs and calipers free moving. Yet still a pull when braking.
Are the new pads in there free to move or did you have to force them in?
Did the caliper push back with ease or did it take a bit of muscle?
Did you clamp the brake hose off when you pushed piston back and drained fluid from the bleeder?
1. Yes very free to move.
2. Not initially but was easy after that.
3. No.
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...and when you pushed the piston back you had the bleeder cracked open, right?
If so, before condemning the caliper, I'd try pushing the piston back with bleeder closed (and no clamp on the brake hose). if its a lot harder or wont move back at all I'd be looking at your brake hose.
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Rear o/s caliper sticking? Wishbone front bushes soft?
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...and when you pushed the piston back you had the bleeder cracked open, right?
If so, before condemning the caliper, I'd try pushing the piston back with bleeder closed (and no clamp on the brake hose). if its a lot harder or wont move back at all I'd be looking at your brake hose.
1. Yes fully open.
2. Will try that and get back to you.
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Rear o/s caliper sticking Wishbone front bushes soft?
1. I cleaned the rear calipers and fitted new VX pads and greased sides of pads before fitting. Pads were moving freely.
2. When the car was MOT'd a few months ago it was mentioned that the front wishbone bushes were deteriorating but there was no movement found and no cause for concern.
How do I determine if the front bushes are at fault?
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Soggy front bushes cause a steering wheel twitch initially on braking, not a steady pull one way or the other. Drive in a straight line, hands loose on steering wheel, brake moderately, and if the steering wheel twitches left and right the cause is probably front w/b bushes. I test for it by having the wife drive over my pit and brake while I, in the pit, watch the wishbone bushes. Then it's obvious. Test needs access to a pit.
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When the bushes are completely shot the movement is clearly visible ;)
Have an assistant drive towards you and then brake firmly and you'll see the wheels toe under load as the struts compress...
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I'll check later.
Anyone got the part number for a front o/s caliper?
Anyone got the part number for the brake wear sensor?
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I'll check later.
Anyone got the part number for a front o/s caliper?
Anyone got the part number for the brake wear sensor?
I've just purchased a Vauxhall Omega Febi Front Brake Pad Wear Sensor. :y As far as I can make out it should be a good make and fit well.
Anyone got the part number for a front o/s caliper and can you recommend a good place to buy a good branded one if it needs replacing?
Thanks
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and to add to my post before.... check those slide pins (but im sure you've done that already) :y
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and to add to my post before.... check those slide pins (but im sure you've done that already) :y
Done that Webby and still pulling to the left.
No twitching Terry but the harder I brake the more it pulls to the left. Maybe the front o/s piston is seizing a little.
I still have to wind the front o/s piston back in and see how smoothly it moves back but with new discs and pads I don't think there will be much movement left in the piston to feel if it's sticking.
I put a test on the brake fluid and it was in the red. Urgent need of a full fluid change. Maybe it was left to long and caused the caliper piston to corrode.
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I thought you'd pushed It back already? (Sorry if I'm getting confused but it's been a long day)
To get the piston out more just put the old pads back in and pump the brake pedal a few times. Then push it back.
Definitely test the hose cos if your brake fluid is that fubard it could have deteriorated the hose.
You may find its the caliper after all but definitely worth diagnosing as calipers are dang expensive as I'm sure you know.
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I thought you'd pushed It back already? (Sorry if I'm getting confused but it's been a long day)
To get the piston out more just put the old pads back in and pump the brake pedal a few times. Then push it back.
Definitely test the hose cos if your brake fluid is that fubard it could have deteriorated the hose.
You may find its the caliper after all but definitely worth diagnosing as calipers are dang expensive as I'm sure you know.
1. I nearly binned the old pads the other day. Glade I didn't now.
2. I will test the hose over this weekend and get back to you.
Thanks
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It's only one way of getting the piston furthe out. I'm sure you could secure an 'object' in the caliper and do the same thing. But old pads are easier. I imagine :)
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When you took the old pads out was one worn more than the other which would indicate a seized or stiff piston.
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When you took the old pads out was one worn more than the other which would indicate a seized or stiff piston.
Or seized or stiff slide pins.
The blessing of hydraulic brake operation is the certainty of even braking. I have known cars with rod or cable brakes that pulled and twitched all over the place. I have only ever known it on hydraulic brakes when I was daft enough to mix half worn pads of different makes.
Does the steering wheel pull when you you brake?
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I will recheck everything and test the pipes etc this weekend and report back with my findings. :y
Thanks
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I took it all apart again and checked everything.
The pins are free moving.
The pads drop in and out with no tightness.
The old pads are worn down evenly and about the same on the front n/s and o/s.
Rubber brake pipes look in good condition and the pistons on the n/s and o/s both go back with the same resistance.
There is no twitching when I brake and it is a smooth pull to the left and the harder I brake the more it pulls to the left.
So I guess it must be the front wishbone bushes. Do you agree?
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And the O/S piston was pushed back with no clamp and bleed nipple shut?
If so then yeah, perhaps it was wishbone bushes all along. . . At least u didn't spend o a caliper you didn't need :y
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Sounds like rear wishbone bushes or you could have play in one of the balljoints or the Idler arm