Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Entwood on 13 August 2015, 14:29:47
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Hi all.. on holibobs in French France with very limited wifi and very basic tools !!
Started up three days ago and ABS and TC lights stayed on. Been on permanently for 150 odd miles now but speedo works fine all the time. Fluid level is fine. Fuse 19 is good.
Brakes feel fine under normal use, not tried anything daft. Fuse 19 is listed in the handbook as ABS/TC, is there anything else I can check easily ??
Any advice readily accepted !!
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just a visual check on Fuse 19 of by other means? Sometimes they can look ok but a multimeter shows a different story.
Try whacking in a new one just in case. :y
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If the speedo works OK, then the ECU has power and is working OK, so that rules out simple things like the fuse, although you might want to check fusible link FV1, as that supplies the high current side of the ABS ECU. I've no idea if the ECU dies completely if that has failed or just throws a code and disables ABS. I'd guess at the former, so that's a long shot.
If it's driving Ok otherwise, then I'd say it's probably not a serious issue. Probably a failed wheel sensor or similar. Can probably wait until you get home although a visual check of each wheel sensor might throw something up.
A waggle of the 3 big round connectors behind the battery might be worth a try, as most of the signals pass through these and it's not unheard-of that they come adrift.
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Worth noting what engine RPM correspond to various speed limits in top gear, in case the speedo fails later.
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Correction; I expect your car is an auto, in which case it gets speedo info from the gearbox sensor.
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Correction; I expect your car is an auto, in which case it gets speedo info from the gearbox sensor.
The speedo uses the ABS ;)
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Cracked ABS ring?
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Cracked ABS ring?
Given how much wine he throws in to his pikey van when he sejours in frogland, I wouldn't be suprised ::)
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I had this happen on a previous car that I just bought.
Solved the issues by putting the same size tyres on the front as we're on the back. Previous owner put smaller profile size on. :- /55 where the /65 should be.
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I had this happen on a previous car that I just bought.
Solved the issues by putting the same size tyres on the front as we're on the back. Previous owner put smaller profile size on. :- /55 where the /65 should be.
Mercs are good for that trick too, but iirc Nige has always had standard 17"s on...
A voltage glitch perhaps :-\ That twenty five foot wine cooler probably consumes some juice, and if the weather in French France is half as shit as ours, then the car will be needing electrickery for lights and wipers etc...
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..... if the weather in French France is half as shit as ours, then the car will be needing electrickery for lights and wipers etc...
It is in this part of French France! ::) Probably why it's called Brittany! ;D
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Many thanks for all the ideas .. fusible links checked, new fuse tried,plugs by battery reseated - bloody horrible task - tyres checked.. still all the same size !! tyre pressures all within 1 psi /axle, 5 psi front/rear. unable to check each wheel sensor area due to ground conditions/laziness!!. Pikey coolbox is parked up and will remain so for a few days more !! Car did 150 miles yesterday (Puy du Fou is FANTASTIC!!!!!!) with the lights on all the tims but no other problems. Probably a visit to Jamie to get the sensors read when we get home. many thanks ... let the drinking and eating continue .. :)
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I'd suggest a genuine, non ECU fault.
Just use it as normal but remember you have no ABS, so don't drive like a twonk.
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I had similar a fair few years ago and it was a bad connection on one of the rear cluster earth points, pressing the brakes was causing it to fail and put both lights on. Cleaned the connector and ask had been well for the last 8 years.
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Well it was dry enough today to actually get under the car, visual check of all sensors, wiring and connectors reveals nothing that looks wrong :( Now awaiting delivery of a "my Naff Code reader" to hopefully tell me whats up. If memory serves changing the sensors is a complete pain in the arse job. :(
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Not difficult as such, only held in place by one bolt. The problem is the fronts almost never come out without having to break them up to get them out. Rears are pretty much the same as changing a crank sensor.
I had ABS light come on a while back and "my naff code reader" pointed to n/s rear speed sensor.
Changed it and its been fine since. Still probably more likely to be ABS ECU than anything else though.
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I'd suggest a genuine, non ECU fault.
Just use it as normal but remember you have no ABS, so don't drive like a certain admin.
Fixed it. ;D
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Many thanks for all the ideas .. fusible links checked, new fuse tried,plugs by battery reseated - bloody horrible task - tyres checked.. still all the same size !! tyre pressures all within 1 psi /axle, 5 psi front/rear. unable to check each wheel sensor area due to ground conditions/laziness!!. Pikey coolbox is parked up and will remain so for a few days more !! Car did 150 miles yesterday (Puy du Fou is FANTASTIC!!!!!!) with the lights on all the tims but no other problems. Probably a visit to Jamie to get the sensors read when we get home. many thanks ... let the drinking and eating continue .. :)
It certainly is ,I've been twice and enjoyed it a lot,did you get to see the birds?.
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I'd suggest a genuine, non ECU fault.
Just use it as normal but remember you have no ABS, so don't drive like a certain admin.
Fixed it. ;D
I know, that AutoAddict is a lunatic....
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well .. "My Naff Code Reader" has arrived, been installed (software version 081016 is there a later one ??) and it says that both front left and rear left sensors are "open circuit".
I somehow doubt that both failed at the same time, so I'm guessing there must be a common point somewhere in the circuit that is damaged/loose .. question is ... where ?? Anyone any ideas on where all the wires/plugs are for the ABS system ?? or how I can get hold of a circuit diagram for the ABS system ??
If its not a loose wire/connection then it has to point at internal ECU I guess ??
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No discussion of illegal software here please ;)
Haynes book of rubbish has the wiring diagrams. Use the "Later Models", as the ABS is the same as the MFL setup :)
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Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the ECU ?? or one of the electrical connections ?? feeling with fingers there "might" just be a loose wire or something under there that I can't see... although if there is I have no idea how to get it plugged back in !!
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Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the ECU ?? or one of the electrical connections ?? feeling with fingers there "might" just be a loose wire or something under there that I can't see... although if there is I have no idea how to get it plugged back in !!
If you can wait til tomorrow, I have a (broken) DX in the garage. But its just one large multiplug....
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Does anyone have a picture of the underside of the ECU ?? or one of the electrical connections ?? feeling with fingers there "might" just be a loose wire or something under there that I can't see... although if there is I have no idea how to get it plugged back in !!
here's the plug.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/99042vm3aal7ymz/ABS%20ECU%20PLUG60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/99042vm3aal7ymz/ABS%20ECU%20PLUG60%25.jpg?dl=0)
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Actually, thinking about it, there may be a 2 wire plug underneath, hold on a sec
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tis implies not.
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2 wire plug seems to drive the pump motor.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/338p8e7dwvut7q6/ABS%20motorCABLE60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/338p8e7dwvut7q6/ABS%20motorCABLE60%25.jpg?dl=0)
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Yep, there's a 2 pin plug to the motor on the valve body. :y
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Many thanks to all for the info .. t'would seem the wires my fingertips are feeling are probably those to the pump then .... and the chances of it being a loose wire are remote.
"My Naff Code reader" when ABS/TC selected tells me the current system ID is 0x0114 but only gives me options of
0x0101 ABS 5.3/5.4
0x0102 ABS 5.3/5.4 + etc
0x0105 ABS 5.3/5.4
0x0110 ABS 5.3/5.4 + etc
I've been using the last one on the grounds its the nearest, but am getting the following results
Everything plugged in normally ...
0035(4)Left rear wheel sensor open circuitleft front wheel sensor open circuit
unplugging the rear wheel sensors and swapping them over ...(left to right and right to left) no change at all
leaving both unplugged .. no change at all
leaving either one unplugged .. no change at all
Unplugging either or both front wheel sensors .. also no change
So, no matter what variation of sensors plugged in or not the fault always remains front left/rear left.... :(
Question now is .... is this a result of the "wrong" protocol being used- 0x0110 instead of 0x0114 - or is it an indication of an ECU failure ??
Unfortunately my thinking is the latter .. and what a pain it is going to be to change it ... :(
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Did you drive it in-between swapping the sensor wires over?
I think it needs to see a few MPH before the ABS ECU initialises and it probably throws up codes at that point, if wheel speeds don't match closely enough to be plausible, or if any are missing.
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Did you drive it in-between swapping the sensor wires over?
I think it needs to see a few MPH before the ABS ECU initialises and it probably throws up codes at that point, if wheel speeds don't match closely enough to be plausible, or if any are missing.
Bugger .. nope ... so tomorrows job is back to swapping with a bit of driving inbetween ... but it'll be easier to do that than to change the ECU .. so here's hoping .... :y :y
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Drive it and monitor live data, should show wheel speeds. :y
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It doesn't really matter which ECU you pick, the codes (and live data) will be the same.
As DTM says, watch Live Data (Measuring Blocks on that PoS) for the 4 wheel sensors. They should all read the same in a straight line, with outside wheels reading slightly higher on corners.
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Magic, thanks for the info .. I'll give it a try tomorrow hopefully. Appreciate the help :)
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As the chaos in the entwood household slowly subsides .... I've had a few moments to actually get the reader onto the car .. but not yet done any "swapping" of connections ... however I doubt it will achieve much any way ... :(
Fault code... 0035 ... front left sensor open circuit/rear left sensor open circuit.
Take it for a drive and read the values ....
Front left wheel - no speed indicated at any time
FRONT RIGHT WHEEL - no speed indicated at any time
Rear left - speed indicated continually and agrees with speedo
rear right - speed indicated continually and agrees with speedo
So the diagnostic disagrees with the actual read values from the sensors
Resetting changes nothing
Looks to me like an ECU problem ??
Any other advice gratefully accepted !!
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.. or your code reader has the codes confuddled, perhaps?
I wonder if there's any wiring or a connector somewhere that's common to both front wheels?
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Actually, just checked the diagram, and the wheel sensors go straight into the ECU with no intervening connectors, and each is completely independent.
Front left sensor is connected to ECU pins 6 and 7, Front right to ECU pins 4 and 5. Rear left pins 8,9. Rear right 1,2.
If you can get to the ECU connector easily, I would try measuring resistance across each of the pin pairs above and see if they are similar. I'd expect them to be a few hundred ohms at a guess. Can also put an oscilloscope across them and see if you get a signal when spinning the wheel.
If the signals are there at the ECU connector, then I'd agree that the ECU is probably at fault.
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Thanks very much for that Kevin... chances of me getting a scope onto it are nil !
I don't really see 2 sensors failing at exactly the same time, and the Fault code presentation also being in error at the same time .. so it all adds up - in my tiny mind - to a common point .. and the only common point is the ECU.
Methinks I'll put an advert in for an ECU and see if I can get one within a week or so ... then its one (balls aching) job changing them over and seeing what occurs. If not its take mine off and send it away for checking/repair which makes it more of a pain to do over a couple of days.
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Perhaps a real tech2 plug in might help? Does sound like code reader is not on the right lines, if the sensor data is fine.
I guess if you did swap them over, be interesting to see if the fault changed to rear right open circuit?
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mmm I suppose whilst seeing if an ECU comes up in the sales section a quick trip over to Jamie's - if it is convenient - wouldn't do any harm ....
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Thanks to Joff I now have an ECU .... just need a day next week to swear at it lots !!
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Cnanging the ECU is not too bad a job. The guide here makes hard work of it. I have described before on this forum how best to do it. If you are not aware of the easy way, ask and I will describe it again.
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I reiterate - do not follow the forum guide, which I have just revisited. I reckon I could change the ABS ECU in less time than it would take you to remove the transfer pipe, a task in the preamble of the forum guide.
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Could you PM or email me your version ?? be very interested to do it an easier way than the guide !!
I'll try anything (once) and will even try and take photo's to make a guide version 2 if it helps anyone else !!
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Could you PM or email me your version ?? be very interested to do it an easier way than the guide !!
I'll try anything (once) and will even try and take photo's to make a guide version 2 if it helps anyone else !!
Will do. Of course my previous epistle must be somewhere on the forum, but it will be easier to do it again than search for it.
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Pics needed to make a better/alternative/enhanced/merged guide ;)
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I have posted a new thead describing how to change the ABS ECU. I note TB wants more pics to update existing guide. I hope you can follow my notes, any problems let me know. Al and Chris might disapprove of my procedure, they are perfectionists. Good luck!
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Many thanks .. printed off, camera on charge, memory card clear .. I'll see what happens !!
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I am hoping all the LPG plumbing is on the inlet side and not in your way.
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Excuse me while I swear very loudly and for a long time ... :(
ECU changed - not quite as simple as Terry suggests . but I'll do a "how to" when I've calmed down ...
Only difference in the ECU's ... my old one yellow sticker "WH", replacement one yellow sticker "WQ" ... don't know if that makes any difference, but it has made no difference to the problem.
Driven down the road for 2 miles ... fault remains .. fault code
C0035 (4) - Front Left Wheel Sensor Open CircuitRear Left Wheel Sensor Open Circuit - PRESENT
Go to measuring blocks and both rear wheels show speed output, both front wheels show 0
I realise "My Naff Code Reader" may be telling me lies .. but I still don't see 2 wheel sensors failing simultaneously....... other than a trip to Brackley to get the codes read by an expert with the right kit .... any ideas ??
p****d off of Wootty B
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Did the replacement ECU come form an identical vehicle? If not then a chat with a Tech2 might sort it. :-\
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Did the replacement ECU come form an identical vehicle? If not then a chat with a Tech2 might sort it. :-\
I'm reliably informed a 3.2 auto saloon ... same as mine .. :-\
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Did the replacement ECU come form an identical vehicle? If not then a chat with a Tech2 might sort it. :-\
I'm reliably informed a 3.2 auto saloon ... same as mine .. :-\
Maybe it has to be more specific, same age, within a range of engine numbers etc. :-\
That's about the limit of my advice so I'll pipe down, but I guess either hooking up to a Tech 2 might sort it, or worst case scenario you now have the original out and can send it off for repair. ::) Good luck! :y
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It's unlikely that you'd get exactly the same fault symptoms even if the ECU were misconfigured for the vehicle, IMHO.
I think a failure of the two wheel sensors or the wiring to them, however unlikely, might be all that remains.
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OK .. getting more pissed off at every step .. but possibly reaching a solution .... :(
In desperation I unplugged all 4 sensors and went for a drive ... "My Naff Code Reader" stated only fault the same as before ... front left rear left .. no mention of the other 2 !! all 4 sensors showing 0 speed as expected.
plugged in JUST front right, no change to fault code (front left rear left) but front right showed speed - which it had not done before -
unplugged front right, plugged in each rear in turn, no change to fault codes at any time (front left rear left) but each wheel showed speed,
plugged in JUST front left, still no change to codes (front left rear left) but no speed indicated at all.
Plugged all back in, no change to codes (front left rear left) but now all wheels EXCEPT front left show speed.
So looks like a front left sensor ?? going to take the wheel off and check the wiring best I can but I'll ask in parts for a front left sensor as that's the next logical thing to change.
Also looks like "My Naff Code Reader" does not tell the truth ... :(
Just need someone to explain how unplugging / replugging the front right, this time but not last, has made it start to work ...
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Hmm. Does look like something has been lying to you. ::)
Can you measure the resistance of the 2 front sensors, just to see if they are similar? Might rule out a wiring issue between sensor and ECU?
IIRC, the front sensors don't come out in one piece, so changing them is a one way street
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Front sensors sods to change. My solution was to buy a used hub complete with bearing and ABS sensor from Steve Brown at Heathrow for £20 and fit it as an assembly.
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Was out doing what you said whilst you posted ! Front left - open circuit - infinite ohms, Front right 1.5K, back left 1.54K, back right 1.52K
Seen these on the bay of fleas .... possibilities, just to rule out anything else ?? ??
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omega-2-6-v6-5-stud-N-S-Passenger-side-front-Hub-assembly-with-ABS-Sensorto-2005-/131593559558?hash=item1ea3965e06
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OMEGA-PASSENGER-SIDE-NEARSIDE-FRONT-HUB-WITH-ABS-SENSOR-N-S-/151471476310?fits=Model%3AOmega&hash=item2344674e56
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omega-94-03-Passenger-Side-Front-Wheel-Hub-ABS-Sensor-FREEPOST-/151817735954?hash=item23590acf12
:-\ :-\ :-\
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On the offchance the sensor is cheap, ring dealer. You'll likely have to drill/retap hub, but at least you know your bearing/hub/geo are all good (presumably). "new" hub introduces some new unknowns.
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Hi Entwood, sorry fault is not cured. My first Omega ABS fault I assumed was ECU, bought used ABS.ECU unit (£150) from Steve Brown, fitted it Haynes, involving unscrewing all hydraulic pipes, no cure. So removed ABS.ECU, returned for refund, refitted original. Replaced NS front sensor by replacing hub, no change. In despair, looke at rear sensors, they were OK. Then spotted crack in NS rear eluctor ring, allowing it to slide along drive shaft. Glued ring to shaft, fault cured. Pic follows.
[urlhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0][url]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
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mmmm decision time ... a used hub with ABS sensor will be £25-£30 and will require a geo setup after (£90) as well as being an unknown in terms of bearing condition etc etc.
A new ABS sensor from "reputable" vauxhall sources is around £80,
http://www.vauxhallsuperstore.co.uk/product/Sensor_90509421
a cheaper source http://www.genuinepartsearch.co.uk/ is £55 but I've never heard of them so an unknown in terms of quality and genuineness....
methinks a call to the stealers tomorrow and see what they say ...
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Or see if one of the breakers can get sensor off in one piece? Foreskin earwarmers are more likely, but you may be lucky?
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Or see if one of the breakers can get sensor off in one piece? Foreskin earwarmers are more likely, but you may be lucky?
I've stuck a request in the wanted section .. have to see what comes up in a day or so .. otherwise its a visit to the stealers methinks ... :(
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Hi Entwood, sorry fault is not cured. My first Omega ABS fault I assumed was ECU, bought used ABS.ECU unit (£150) from Steve Brown, fitted it Haynes, involving unscrewing all hydraulic pipes, no cure. So removed ABS.ECU, returned for refund, refitted original. Replaced NS front sensor by replacing hub, no change. In despair, looke at rear sensors, they were OK. Then spotted crack in NS rear eluctor ring, allowing it to slide along drive shaft. Glued ring to shaft, fault cured. Pic follows.
[urlhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]Here's the ring:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
(http://On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote)
Here's the ring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0
I hope.
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Hi Entwood, sorry fault is not cured. My first Omega ABS fault I assumed was ECU, bought used ABS.ECU unit (£150) from Steve Brown, fitted it Haynes, involving unscrewing all hydraulic pipes, no cure. So removed ABS.ECU, returned for refund, refitted original. Replaced NS front sensor by replacing hub, no change. In despair, looke at rear sensors, they were OK. Then spotted crack in NS rear eluctor ring, allowing it to slide along drive shaft. Glued ring to shaft, fault cured. Pic follows.
[urlhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]Here's the ring:
[url=https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
(http://On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote)
Here's the ring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote]Here's the ring:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0
I hope.
Worth checking, but yet to see a failed ABS reluctor ring on an Omega.
Now Rovers.... ....well, its finding one that doesn't have a failed ring! ;D
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Hi Entwood, sorry fault is not cured. My first Omega ABS fault I assumed was ECU, bought used ABS.ECU unit (£150) from Steve Brown, fitted it Haynes, involving unscrewing all hydraulic pipes, no cure. So removed ABS.ECU, returned for refund, refitted original. Replaced NS front sensor by replacing hub, no change. In despair, looke at rear sensors, they were OK. Then spotted crack in NS rear eluctor ring, allowing it to slide along drive shaft. Glued ring to shaft, fault cured. Pic follows.
[urlhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]Here's the ring:
[url=https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
(http://On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote)
Here's the ring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote]Here's the ring:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0
I hope.
Incidentally, normally when the ring splits, even if you can secure it, the ECU often gets grumpy with the inconsistent signal it gets, which has 2 possible outcomes - ABS light on and ABS disabled (the better result), or the ABS mis-detetcting lockup under any braking, losing all braking to that wheel (surprisingly scary the first couple of times it happens ;D)
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Not tempted to use the socket method to carefully record current camber setting; then fit a used hub and sensor assembly and see if it cures the fault? If it does then carefully set the camber with the socket method. If not, refit the original hub and think again.
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Thought about that .. but with the sensor showing infinite ohms .. open circuit from the socket itself I doubt it can be anything else .. so its actually cheaper to fit a new sensor than to go used hub + geo ... so unless a breaker comes up with just a sensor ..... :(
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Hi Entwood, sorry fault is not cured. My first Omega ABS fault I assumed was ECU, bought used ABS.ECU unit (£150) from Steve Brown, fitted it Haynes, involving unscrewing all hydraulic pipes, no cure. So removed ABS.ECU, returned for refund, refitted original. Replaced NS front sensor by replacing hub, no change. In despair, looke at rear sensors, they were OK. Then spotted crack in NS rear eluctor ring, allowing it to slide along drive shaft. Glued ring to shaft, fault cured. Pic follows.
[urlhttps://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]Here's the ring:
[url=https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
(http://On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote)
Here's the ring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0)
Here's the ring:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0]
On a Citroen CX, my ABS fault was a frayed front sensor cable. On a Senator I had a rear sensor fail. On older cars ABS is a mixed blessing.
[/quote]Here's the ring:
[url]https://www.dropbox.com/s/gsouoxpfppyglbt/ABS%20RELUCTOR%20RING%20CRACK70%25.JPG?dl=0
I hope.
Incidentally, normally when the ring splits, even if you can secure it, the ECU often gets grumpy with the inconsistent signal it gets, which has 2 possible outcomes - ABS light on and ABS disabled (the better result), or the ABS mis-detetcting lockup under any braking, losing all braking to that wheel (surprisingly scary the first couple of times it happens ;D)
[/quote]Mine was fine with ring glued in place. A year later in an icy snap I put some typemetal pigs in the boot to improve traction, filled up with fuel, drove off garage forecourt and both rear springs broke, damaging both driveshaft gaiters. I then changed both springs and driveshafts, thus replacing split reluctor ring.
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I agree fault must be in n/s front sensor. Could be in sensor itself, more likely to be a frayed cable, on a front wheel sensor subject to constant flexing. It's worth slicing open the cable and checking continuity near the sensor by sticking needles through the insulation of both leads. If you have continuity, the break is between there and the socket. Locate it, repair it, and job is done. I did that on my Citroen.
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Ordered a sensor from Stealers ... £70 + the dreaded :( but he did say he'd give me "some" discount when I pick it up and pay ! None in stock so won't be in until Monday... gives me a couple more days to squirt plusgas at it I suppose
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When I removed my front sensor, the retaining screw came out OK, but the sensor was well and truly stuck in the hole in the hub. Wiggling the retaining screw end only succeeded in breaking it off. I then picked and drilled the sensor to death, slow business. What I should have done is remove the disc and bash it out with a socket.
It's worth checking that cable first!
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Stuck "my" version of how I changed the ECU up in the test section... hope I've not missed anything out !!
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=132796.0
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Well done, Entwood. I didn't say it was easy, but I found it much easier than unscrewing all the brake pipes from the ABS unit before removing it, screwing them all back afterwards, then bleeding all the brake circuits. I was not aware of the complications introduced by the LPG kit, glad you overcame them.
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Picked up the new sensor today .. listed at £69.00 + VAT = £82.80 .. didn't need to flash the Autobahnstormers card and ask for a discount .. came up automatically with the reg number ... Mr N R******** Autobahnstormers .. £51.02 + VAT =£61.23 .. now that's a decent discount. :y :y
Looking at the forecast it won't get changed until Wednesday or Thursday .. not something I'm going to do in the pouring rain !!
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Job is jobbed .. not quite as simple as Mr Haynes's one liner .. but done nevertheless.
Lights went out instantly on startup, no need for any distance to be traveled at all.
Both ABS and TC tested on a known area of loose-ish gravel/grass/worn tarmac... all seemed to work as expected.
I took some piccies and will do a write up on how I did it shortly ... probably not the "best" way at a guess... but it worked !
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Job is jobbed .. .... but it worked !
:y :y :y Well done! :y :y
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Well done, Entwood. Glad it ended successfully. We all tend to presume that any ABS problem is a faulty ECU It ain't necessarliy so.
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I bet that's very satisfying! :y A cold beer well earned. 8)
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Thanks for the comments .. appreciated .. just glad its all over now .. shame that "My Naff Code Reader" lied and lead to so much grief.
Write up on how I did the last bit is here
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=132876.0
any comments /suggestions to improve it gratefully received
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Thanks for report of your ABS sensor change adventure. As stated before, after digging mine out I gave up and took the used hub and sensor route - that was 8 years and 90,000 miles ago, so I reckon I have got away with it.
I understand Haynes buys new cars, dismantles them, takes photographs and writes repair manuals. His cars come to bits easily. Our 15 year old relics are trickier to dismantle, and some spares are no longer available. This forum is invaluable for us who keep these excellent luxury cars on the road.