Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 19 August 2015, 21:56:21
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SWMBO says Jonny's 2002 2.2 is too good to scrap, I must change the head gasket. I am following SIR Philbutt's excellent guide. I have detached the exhaust manifold, am now facing the inlet manifold, which bristles with wires and pipes. There is a harness attached to it too. I can see 8 nuts and a vacuum hose attaching it to the head. SIR Phillbut mentions a 13mm nut right at the bottom rear, not found that one yet.
My question is if I undo all the nuts shall I be able to pull the manifold, harness with all the wires cables and pipes attached, away from the head?
I have removed the alternator brackets and the coolant reservoir.
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If i remember there is one at the back which is the bracket that attaches to the inlet but i had to get to it fro underneath the car so the bracket moves out of the way
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Not sure on omega but the frontera has a cooling pipe bolted to the inlet manifold underneath,also on the end of the lhs of inlet there should be a bolt used and not stud and nut. :y
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I would disconnect the wiring, move the wiring loom aside and then remove the manifold. There aren't that many connections and the loom risks getting damaged if you're moving things around with it still connected. You will also be glad of the extra space gained by removing the intake manifold completely.
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How do I remove this connector block, marked with a cross? I feel it should slide up or down. It's now all that's holding the manifold on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hf1j2ih9un5o2ce/ImanilfordCONNector60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/hf1j2ih9un5o2ce/ImanilfordCONNector60%25.jpg?dl=0)
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It seemed substantial, and it was certainly in the way. Eventually I rumbled it - it was a lifting hook. Why did Opel paint it matt balck and make it look like plastic?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0)
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I have unplugged the EGR. SIR Phillbut says it is hard to remove, so he disconnected the coolant hose instead, then the EGR came off with the head. I am not sure which hose he disconnected. Is it the hose at the back of engine in this photograph?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzuild18z5d81ud/EGR60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzuild18z5d81ud/EGR60%25.JPG?dl=0)
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Sorry not been on all week Hope this helps. Phil
SWMBO says Jonny's 2002 2.2 is too good to scrap, I must change the head gasket. I am following SIR Philbutt's excellent guide. I have detached the exhaust manifold, am now facing the inlet manifold, which bristles with wires and pipes. There is a harness attached to it too. I can see 8 nuts and a vacuum hose attaching it to the head. SIR Phillbut mentions a 13mm nut right at the bottom rear, not found that one yet.
My question is if I undo all the nuts shall I be able to pull the manifold, harness with all the wires cables and pipes attached, away from the head?
I have removed the alternator brackets and the coolant reservoir.
The nut is connecting a bracket to hole bottom left of the picture, sorry about quality
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/594/20829535611_f9f85fa481_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/xJCPfk)IMG_0888 (https://flic.kr/p/xJCPfk) by Phil Butterworth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/81380452@N07/), on Flickr
I have unplugged the EGR. SIR Phillbut says it is hard to remove, so he disconnected the coolant hose instead, then the EGR came off with the head. I am not sure which hose he disconnected. Is it the hose at the back of engine in this photograph?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzuild18z5d81ud/EGR60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/rzuild18z5d81ud/EGR60%25.JPG?dl=0)
The one on the RHS here, viewed from back of head
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5795/20812674142_b74b3a73b9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/xH9oVm)2.2 EGR (https://flic.kr/p/xH9oVm) by Phil Butterworth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/81380452@N07/), on Flickr
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Thanks Phil. I will remove it tomorrow and see if that allows me to lift the head off. AS you see I have got the cams off and I think everything in the way.
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Thanks Phil. I will remove it tomorrow and see if that allows me to lift the head off. AS you see I have got the cams off and I think everything in the way.
Dont forget the electrical connections, plug and clip, center of the EGR manifold and the screws holding the cam belt back plate to head, i did ::)
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Thanks Phil. I will remove it tomorrow and see if that allows me to lift the head off. AS you see I have got the cams off and I think everything in the way.
Dont forget the electrical connections, plug and clip, center of the EGR manifold and the screws holding the cam belt back plate to head, i did ::)
Thanks Phil. So this plate is attached to the head. I hoped it was attached to the block. In this shot with the EGR on the right and the hose to the left, I see a connector (temperature sensor?). I don't see the clip, perhaps it will become obvious when I lift the head.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/559xhy5d63aclzm/EGRplate60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/559xhy5d63aclzm/EGRplate60%25.JPG?dl=0)
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So this plate is attached to the head. I hoped it was attached to the block.
Both :y
I don't see the clip, perhaps it will become obvious when I lift the head.
You kind of want to get eyes on and it disconnected before moving the head to avoid damage to the loom and/or plugs tbh. Loads of space around the 2.2 in the miggy engine bay. Climb on top if you have to (I have to for kitty ::))
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It seemed substantial, and it was certainly in the way. Eventually I rumbled it - it was a lifting hook. Why did Opel paint it matt balck and make it look like plastic?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0)
Because the 'looks like plastic' bit is merely a plastic cover... prevents hoses/wiring from chaffing on the eye :y
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So this plate is attached to the head. I hoped it was attached to the block.
Both :y
I don't see the clip, perhaps it will become obvious when I lift the head.
Is it really attached to head and block? If so it means I cannot remove the head without detaching it from one or the other. That will mean removing the scuttle and probably wiper motor to get access.
You kind of want to get eyes on and it disconnected before moving the head to avoid damage to the loom and/or plugs tbh. Loads of space around the 2.2 in the miggy engine bay. Climb on top if you have to (I have to for kitty ::))
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
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It seemed substantial, and it was certainly in the way. Eventually I rumbled it - it was a lifting hook. Why did Opel paint it matt balck and make it look like plastic?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/f231vwrth912skw/LIFTINGhook60%25.JPG?dl=0)
Because the 'looks like plastic' bit is merely a plastic cover... prevents hoses/wiring from chaffing on the eye :y
Quite right. Silly me. but even the bare metal bit is cleverly painted black to confuse me. On my 2 litre is is bare metal colour and obviously a lifting hook as it lacks the plastic hood.
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
Was referring to the timing belt plate
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
The plate is attached to the head by just two screws, either side about level with the cams, you do not have to remove the plate
The clip (spade type connector) is on a single wire that is in the same loom as the plug connector, you can find it by feel. It is just pushed (slid) onto the round connector next to the plus socket (left of it in this picture)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5795/20812674142_b74b3a73b9_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/xH9oVm)2.2 EGR (https://flic.kr/p/xH9oVm) by Phil Butterworth (https://www.flickr.com/photos/81380452@N07/), on Flickr
Also just remembered that the Lamba connection loom is attached to the plate just at the unattached end of the hose in the picture, As you can see I just cut the cable tie with a knife and by feel
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Thnaks Phil. Monsieur Guffet has frightened me by stating that the EGR plate is attached to both the head and the block. I have tried to photograph it, but I think he is wrong, and you are right. All I need to do is disconnect the hose, the cable and the lambda sensor cable clip and remove the head bolts, and the head should lift off.
It may be that the connector is the ECU temp sensor, in which case there may be nearby the temp gauge sensor.
2 pics follow taken from passenger side end of the plate. You can see the EGR valve, the edge of the exhaust manifold and the top of the block.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvomdng1009fuo1/EGRplateLH2.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/gvomdng1009fuo1/EGRplateLH2.jpg?dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9mnogwjkx3unta9/EGRplateLH160%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/9mnogwjkx3unta9/EGRplateLH160%25.jpg?dl=0)
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
Was referring to the timing belt plate
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
Was referring to the timing belt plate
Thank you Monsieur Guffer. I think I misunderstood you.You said the the cam belt rear cover was attached to both head and block, not the EGR plate. Am I right?
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My reply got buried there. Please confirm that the EGR plate is attached to both head and block. If so I shall have to detach it to remove the head.
Was referring to the timing belt plate
Thank you Monsieur Guffer. I think I misunderstood you.You said the the cam belt rear cover was attached to both head and block, not the EGR plate. Am I right?
In the comment you quoted you asked about the cam belt plate which is what i said was connected to both the block and head :y
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Thank you Monsieur Guffer. I was confused.
Tomorrow I hope to remove the head.
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Thank you Monsieur Guffer. I was confused.
Tomorrow I hope to remove the head.
Yours or.....? Oh yeah, nevermind ;D
Good luck. if this is your first hg then its a nice feeling getting the head off :y
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Have unplugged the ECU temp sensor. Strugging to remove the hose to EGR plate. I have removed the hose clip but it's well stuck on. I am tempted to warm it up with a hair dryer. Is this unwise? I do not want to cut it off because it seems to go into the cabin so would be tricky to replace. Please advise.
Pic follows of hose.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dptf9fm5a826l7j/EGRhose60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/dptf9fm5a826l7j/EGRhose60%25.jpg?dl=0)
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When I did mine ERG came off with head and I only removed it once on bench.
Steve
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When I did mine ERG came off with head and I only removed it once on bench.
Steve
This :y
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My problem is with that hose attached I cannot remove the head.
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If you can access it, get some big grips on it and gently rotate it to break the seal :y
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My problem is with that hose attached I cannot remove the head.
If it really wont move then, cut / break and replace later.
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If you can access it, get some big grips on it and gently rotate it to break the seal :y
Brilliant, Lazydocker
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7vglmzhr342f6n/HoseOFF60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7vglmzhr342f6n/HoseOFF60%25.jpg?dl=0)
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If you can access it, get some big grips on it and gently rotate it to break the seal :y
Brilliant, Lazydocker
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7vglmzhr342f6n/HoseOFF60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/o7vglmzhr342f6n/HoseOFF60%25.jpg?dl=0)
That's just what I did.
Once on another really stuck hose I squirted a bit of WD40 on the end, left it a while, then grippers shifted it. For future ref
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Head is off! Thanks to all for help. Pics follow.
2 mishaps. I overlooked the bolt that holds the cam belt cover on at the top and also the front harness box. It screws into the head through the cam belt rear cover. I bent it when I tried to lift off the head, then broke it off when I tried to undo it
. As I removed the head I managed to cut the harness clip that holds the lambda sensor cable, but I failed to disconnect the connector to the temperature gauge sender, could not find it, thought it had pulled off. Now I see that the sender has a round end and the cable plug has a leaf gripping end. I am puzzled as the leaf is not in the plug, nor is there any sign of a leaf base on the sensor. Pics follow of these matters.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vd3jfyn6m5v6kt/EGRbracket60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/9vd3jfyn6m5v6kt/EGRbracket60%25.jpg?dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/srqr62jk3n5h5tl/head%20etc.60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/srqr62jk3n5h5tl/head%20etc.60%25.jpg?dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4tz4y13mhsuybdw/block60%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/4tz4y13mhsuybdw/block60%25.jpg?dl=0)
https://www.dropbox.com/s/2opd9tq7p27jy4g/brokenSCREW50%25.JPG?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/2opd9tq7p27jy4g/brokenSCREW50%25.JPG?dl=0)
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My problem is with that hose attached I cannot remove the head.
If it really wont move then, cut / break and replace later.
Thanks, excellent advice. I see now, with the head off, it goes to the heater bypass valve and would have been easy to replace. I thought it went to the cabin.
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I bought this HG set http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VAUXHALL-OPEL-FRONTERA-B-OMEGA-2-2-16V-98-05 as it included new head bolts. I now discover neither of the EGR manifold gaskets included is correct, nor is the breather pipe gasket. I cannot see anything better on e-bay. Should I return the set and start again, or buy EGR manifold gasket from Vauxhall?
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Might be easier to get it from vx ,your not the only to have that problem,been a few on the frontera forum that have,when i did mine i didnt remove the egr . :y
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Might be easier to get it from vx ,your not the only to have that problem,been a few on the frontera forum that have,when i did mine i didnt remove the egr . :y
I wish I had not removed mine. I assumed I had a new gasket so it would not be a problem. I am inclined to buy the EGR gasket from Vx too, just to save time and hassle. I shall need other bits too.
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My EGR gasket was wrong as well, got one from VX £3.99, i think, had to go to Oldham Citroen Pentagon, ??? never figured out why.
Make sure they are sourcing the EGR manifold gasket and not the EGR gasket, had 2 wasted trips because of that :(
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Might be easier to get it from vx ,your not the only to have that problem,been a few on the frontera forum that have,when i did mine i didnt remove the egr . :y
I wish I had not removed mine. I assumed I had a new gasket so it would not be a problem. I am inclined to buy the EGR gasket from Vx too, just to save time and hassle. I shall need other bits too.
I used the EGR gasket from my Elring kit, they had to remove and replace a few hundred miles later when it failed so stick VX :y The Elring HG itself has been fine.
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Or even get some high temp gasket paper and make your own :y
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Might be easier to get it from vx ,your not the only to have that problem,been a few on the frontera forum that have,when i did mine i didnt remove the egr . :y
I wish I had not removed mine. I assumed I had a new gasket so it would not be a problem. I am inclined to buy the EGR gasket from Vx too, just to save time and hassle. I shall need other bits too.
I used the EGR gasket from my Elring kit, they had to remove and replace a few hundred miles later when it failed so stick VX :y The Elring HG itself has been fine.
I imagine that was fun to change with the head on the block.
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Yes, I used the swear box!
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All reassembled. Fitted cheap MAF sensor to replace faulty MAF, filled with coolant, replaced battery. Cranked 10 seconds with coil pack lead not connected. Connected coil pack lead. Engine started at idle, but wanted to stall; if caught it would rev cleanly, but hard to keep running. Unplugged MAF; no change. Fitted original dodgy MAF; no change. Fitted known good MAF; no change, engine would not catch and rev any more.
Checked codes: no codes stored on cheapo reader. Removed all plugs; all sooty, see pic. Any suggestions?
https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ib7sepacqcjvj3/DIRTYplugs70%25.jpg?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ib7sepacqcjvj3/DIRTYplugs70%25.jpg?dl=0)
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that's running rich/misfiring.
Is yours leads or over the plug DIS pack? If the former double check the numbering.
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that's running rich/misfiring.
Is yours leads or over the plug DIS pack? If the former double check the numbering.
DIS pack. It was running like this before I changed the head gasket. I blamed it on the faulty MAF sensor, probably incorrectly. When I put the plugs in after the HG change they were fine. If the MAF is faulty it should run OK with it unplugged; it does not.
I have a problem. Cam sensor? Crank sensor? Somethng else?
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2.2 has a coil pack,,,,so no dis pack or leads.....on a previous 2.2 i had,,that started but would not tick over and when reved to keep it going it sounded just like a machine gun firing....turned out to be the 1st lambda sensor was faulty..changed that and all was well..
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2.2 has a coil pack,,,,so no dis pack or leads.....on a previous 2.2 i had,,that started but would not tick over and when reved to keep it going it sounded just like a machine gun firing....turned out to be the 1st lambda sensor was faulty..changed that and all was well..
Thank you flyer. That had not occurred to me. Will investigate.
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Sure it's not the coil pack itself?
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Sure it's not the coil pack itself?
No! Good thinking M. Guffer. I will check that first. Son Ben will be here soon with his 2.2, and I will swop them.
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Sure it's not the coil pack itself?
No! Good thinking M. Guffer. I will check that first. Son Ben will be here soon with his 2.2, and I will swop them.
:y
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Son not been here yet, so this mornring I swopped the 1st lamda sensor. No change.
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Got it! It was not lambda sensor, it was not plug stick; it was the vacuum pipe not replaced in the inlet manifold. I spotted it, replaced it, tested it, and it ran perfectly. Tappets soon settled down, and it ran like a sewing machine. I ran it for an hour, no water loss. Job done.
Thanks to SIR Philbutt for his excellent guide, and to all members for advice.
In the 1960s I had the head off my Mini every Christmas to regrind the valves and decarbonise it. That was easy. 55 years later, with overhead camshafts, cam belts, emission devices all over the shop, things are trickier. What makes it all possible is this excellent forum, with support and advice.
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Glad you fixed it matey.....yep way back in the old days ..motors we so much easier to suss out....they had to be realy because they were always breaking down..lol.... :y
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Got it! It was not lambda sensor, it was not plug stick; it was the vacuum pipe not replaced in the inlet manifold. I spotted it, replaced it, tested it, and it ran perfectly. Tappets soon settled down, and it ran like a sewing machine. I ran it for an hour, no water loss. Job done.
Thanks to SIR Philbutt for his excellent guide, and to all members for advice.
In the 1960s I had the head off my Mini every Christmas to regrind the valves and decarbonise it. That was easy. 55 years later, with overhead camshafts, cam belts, emission devices all over the shop, things are trickier. What makes it all possible is this excellent forum, with support and advice.
Your Welcome 8) :y
I did the same 30yrs ago with my escort, which had a 2ltr OHC engine, it gave me the confidence to do mine, and yes it was that long between HG jobs :o
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At least nowadays we angle tighten our head bolts once and don't have to tighten them again after 500 miles; and the tappets helpfully adjust themselves.
I found the angle tightening rather alarming (3 times 90 degrees, then 15 degrees), it got harder to turn each time and on the final 15 degrees there was a loud bang; I thought I had broken off a head bolt, but I had not; the 3/8" extension had snapped. I finished the job with 1/2" tools.
Was that the Escort twin cam? I used to rally in a twin cam, they seemed so exotic then, now most cars seems to have overhead camshafts!.
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At least nowadays we angle tighten our head bolts once and don't have to tighten them again after 500 miles; and the tappets helpfully adjust themselves.
I found the angle tightening rather alarming (3 times 90 degrees, then 15 degrees), it got harder to turn each time and on the final 15 degrees there was a loud bang; I thought I had broken off a head bolt, but I had not; the 3/8" extension had snapped. I finished the job with 1/2" tools.
Was that the Escort twin cam? I used to rally in a twin cam, they seemed so exotic then, now most cars seems to have overhead camshafts!.
Not a twin cam, engine out of a 2000E cortina transposed into a MK1 1300 sport. Modded up all round but looked standard. Capri killer most of the time 8).
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Was that an Escort with SOHC, with cam belt running direct from crank pulley to cam pulley, without a cover, looking delightfully simple? And, I suppose, without any extra pulleys to seize up, it never went wrong. I had a similar arrangement on my Peugeot 505GTI. That belt was tensioned via the alternator, which it also drove. The Carton 4 cylinder 18v also had one overhead camshaft, and parallel valves, so came to no harm when the cam belt broke.
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Was that an Escort with SOHC, with cam belt running direct from crank pulley to cam pulley, without a cover, looking delightfully simple? And, I suppose, without any extra pulleys to seize up, it never went wrong. I had a similar arrangement on my Peugeot 505GTI. That belt was tensioned via the alternator, which it also drove. The Carton 4 cylinder 18v also had one overhead camshaft, and parallel valves, so came to no harm when the cam belt broke.
Correction, Carlton 8 valve. Malcolm Kear had his cam belt fail in a traffic hold up on the outer lane of the M25. He managed to crawl across to the hard shoulder on the starter before calling the AA. He was conveyed to Bellinger Vauxhall Grove who simply changed the cam belt and sent him on his way.
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Was that an Escort with SOHC, with cam belt running direct from crank pulley to cam pulley, without a cover, looking delightfully simple? And, I suppose, without any extra pulleys to seize up, it never went wrong. I had a similar arrangement on my Peugeot 505GTI. That belt was tensioned via the alternator, which it also drove. The Carton 4 cylinder 18v also had one overhead camshaft, and parallel valves, so came to no harm when the cam belt broke.
Yep
£50 for a suitable cross member with extended engine mounts and slotted straight in as bell housing on gearbox matched. Only had to add different coolant pipes and a custom bracket to hold the original dynamo in the right place. Oh and a custom exhaust.
....
Correction, Carlton 8 valve. Malcolm Kear had his cam belt fail in a traffic hold up on the outer lane of the M25. He managed to crawl across to the hard shoulder on the starter before calling the AA. He was conveyed to Bellinger Vauxhall Grove who simply changed the cam belt and sent him on his way.
Had a similar problem, fan belt failed whilst travelling through France, pulled off the Dynamo and broke the bracket at about 70mph. Dynamo went under car and tumbled down the road. Recovered it and drove to next garage. They found a matching belt and I found two big washers + lock washer in tool box. Bolted it up, refitted dynamo and belt and it still worked. Was still like that when I sold her a year later 8).
Ah the good old days of simple cars, even when modded :'(
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All is not quite right. HG is fine, run for an hour, no water loss. However, it does not always start easily, when started it idles OK, and if throttle is opened slowly revs rise normally. Hopwever, if I floor the throttle it hesitates before revving. I have tried unplugging the MAF, and nothing changes. Nor does the EML come on.
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Could just be fuel trims drive around for a while and see if it maps up and resolves
If not may need to look at fuel/air filter and any pending codes (run and look at codes before turning off as pending ones reset)
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Could just be fuel trims drive around for a while and see if it maps up and resolves
If not may need to look at fuel/air filter and any pending codes (run and look at codes before turning off as pending ones reset)
Thanks. Problem is car is on a SORN note, no MOT, not insured or taxed. Car was running normally when I drove it back from Chippenham 2 months ago. If you are right it can wait until I need it. I could drive it to MOT station as it is, and I think it should pass.
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Car does not start well cold. On third or fourth attempt it starts and runs. It starts hot first time. I wondered if it might be ECU temperature sensor, which I know is fitted in the EGR manifold. I remember refitting it, seemed OK. I have groped around down below the rear of the head, think I felt it, and it was secure. I think there should be an EML on for missing sensor. I thought there should have been an EML on when MAF sensor was unplugged, but there was not. Bulbs are OK.
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Sure there are no air leaks?
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Sure there are no air leaks?
No, an air leak is my most likely solution. Is there anything I can spray around the inlet system while engine is at idle which will assist me locating a leak? I eliminated the big one, vacuum pipe not fitted. I assume any leak has to be between the MAF sensor and the engine.
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With engine running spray carb cleaner around all joints ,,,,air pipes...vacum pipes...manifold..engine...anywhere there is a joint...at which point if the engine runs ok then where ever you are on the engine then thats where your problem air leak would be :y
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With engine running spray carb cleaner around all joints ,,,,air pipes...vacum pipes...manifold..engine...anywhere there is a joint...at which point if the engine runs ok then where ever you are on the engine then thats where your problem air leak would be :y
Thanks, will do.
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Idling hot, I sprayed carb cleaner over the inlet tract, inlet manifold, breather pipes, everywhere i could think of, but the engine note never changed. I have swopped the MAF sensor for a known good one, no change. Might it be the coil stick? Only other thing I can think of is the ECU temperature sensor. I have not changed it but I did unplug it when I removed the head and EGR manifold. I am confident I have replugged it correctly, it is still attached, but with the cam cover on it is difficult to unplug and replug it. Apart from that I have no more ideas.
Of course it might be OK and just in need of a good thrashing. While on a SORN I cannot give it one.Any thoughts?
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Book it in for MOT nearby. Then take it out, so if you get stopped can say you are on route :y
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Book it in for MOT nearby. Then take it out, so if you get stopped can say you are on route :y
It's not insured either. I could insure it, but as some expense. My plan was to bide my time until another car breaks down.
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Book it in for MOT nearby. Then take it out, so if you get stopped can say you are on route :y
It's not insured either. I could insure it, but as some expense. My plan was to bide my time until another car breaks down.
Can insure for one day to get it to the MOT
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Book it in for MOT nearby. Then take it out, so if you get stopped can say you are on route :y
It's not insured either. I could insure it, but as some expense. My plan was to bide my time until another car breaks down.
Can insure for one day to get it to the MOT
I wonder at what cost. Thanks Rob, will investigate.
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Been a few years, but day insurance could be had for a tenner :y
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Nearer £25-30 nowadays ;)
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Nearer £25-30 nowadays ;)
Yes , i insured for a day a few months back .. cost me £30 . Some may say expensive but cheaper than getting nicked :)
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Yeah but what are the chances of that, Jason is always telling us there are no coppers left on the road anyway.. :-X
(I am joking, before anyone sticks a flag on all my cars :P)
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Yeah but i had to drive 100 mile in the one i picked up ;D
Didn't spot any bee barz though :(