Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: C20det on 17 September 2015, 19:55:36
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Throttle sticking on but not when TC is off
Anyone encountered this problem before and know what it might be?
Cheers, Carl
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Traction control working as it should...
Perfectly normal ::)
Stop driving like a tw at, and the ecu won't keep cutting the fuel ;D
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I read this that throttle is sticking on, I.e. High revs, but not with TC on... Total opposite to the above comment :-\
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My bad... appears I completely misread that :-\
But given the throttle is electronic and TC cuts the fuelling (as well as triggering the rear ABS) I don't see how turning the TC OFF would prevent the throttle sticking open, as throttle control would remain the same... the difference being that with TC disabled, it would have no fuelling over ride to the ecu.
If it is indeed sticking open TC off, then I would be looking closely at the ABS to Engine ecu wiring.
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When I get into it each morning to go to work if I where to rev it up to say 3-4k then change gear it would stay at them same revs and so on but I've notice that if I turn the traction off It doesn't do it at all its like as if crusie control is stuck on because the revs always stay the Same, they never go up or down.
Very strange it's only started doing this it was driving perfectly okay
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Does it have cruise control?
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It doesn't need to be high revs for example I'm driving along the carriageway at a steady pace with the traction control OFF at around 50mph @ 3000rpm and I turn the TC back on I would be able to lift my foot off the throttle pedal & it would continue to travel at that same speed until I either press the brake pedal or turn off TC again,
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Yes it does but the fella I brought it from told me that he had took the stalk out of it because something was interfering the with it but I can't remember how, there is a non cruise control standard stalk on it from I bought it .
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I think he mentioned something about the clutch pedal interfering with the cruise control that's why he changed the stalk, as far as I can remember
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I think he mentioned something about the clutch pedal interfering with the cruise control that's why he changed the stalk, as far as I can remember
If clutch switch still present, try unplugging it and see if it makes any difference?
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Okay will have a look in the morning,
Thanks
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Would it be churlish to ask what codes are present, if any... ::)
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It would make sense if switching TC off also disabled cruise control. The fact that someone has previously removed the cruise stalk makes me suspect that there is a short circuit (perhaps intermittent) in the wires to the cruise switches which is setting cruise when it is not wanted :-\
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Being Plod, if cruise is fitted, then it is unlikely to be factory... Needs activating with Tech2 to work properly, and if "My Naff Code Reader" has been used on it then all bets are off... ::)
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Being Plod, if cruise is fitted, then it is unlikely to be factory... Needs activating with Tech2 to work properly, and if "My Naff Code Reader" has been used on it then all bets are off... ::)
They wont let you enable cruise on the 3.2
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It would make sense if switching TC off also disabled cruise control. The fact that someone has previously removed the cruise stalk makes me suspect that there is a short circuit (perhaps intermittent) in the wires to the cruise switches which is setting cruise when it is not wanted :-\
That's where my money would be.. Cruise is effectively 'stuck on'. Although I never tried the TC button with the cruise enabled to see if it also disabled cruise. Anyone with cruise able to test that for the OP?
To the OP: If you brake do the revs also drop? (As we know the clutch and brake should both disable cruise)
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It would make sense if switching TC off also disabled cruise control. The fact that someone has previously removed the cruise stalk makes me suspect that there is a short circuit (perhaps intermittent) in the wires to the cruise switches which is setting cruise when it is not wanted :-\
That's where my money would be.. Cruise is effectively 'stuck on'. Although I never tried the TC button with the cruise enabled to see if it also disabled cruise. Anyone with cruise able to test that for the OP?
To the OP: If you brake do the revs also drop? (As we know the clutch and brake should both disable cruise)
Will try that later Whilst drifting around Asda car park on my way home...
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;D Now I know how you bent that wishbone, Al. Your secret is out!
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It sounds to me as if TC is switching cruise on off. Either an electrical fault..or a Terbs fault.
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TC wiring is often butchered on plod cars, so makes me wonder if that's somehow been confused with cruise wiring on replacement?
On a DBW system, throttle movement and pedal movement are monitored by 2 separate systems on each. If the throttle is remaining open when the pedal is released, it's because the ECU is doing it deliberately for some reason, otherwise it would revert to limp mode and log a fault code.
Something is triggering the cruise control, IMHO. Even more likely as the cruise stalk has been removed and there could be cruise wiring floating around behind the dash shorting to something.
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Cruise switch wouldn't have originally been present... Could potentially be a dash out job to find the short between the cruise and Tc looms...
Mine had cuts on the brake switch loom, handbrake loom and two additional feeds for the ignition switch for the runlock, and cuts in the TC loom to the switch...
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Cruise switch wouldn't have originally been present... Could potentially be a dash out job to find the short between the cruise and Tc looms...
Mine had cuts on the brake switch loom, handbrake loom and two additional feeds for the ignition switch for the runlock, and cuts in the TC loom to the switch...
Would the run-lock only maintain a normal idle? or could it be used to set a fast idle to spin the alternator fast enough to drive all the flashing lights?
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Cruise switch wouldn't have originally been present... Could potentially be a dash out job to find the short between the cruise and Tc looms...
Mine had cuts on the brake switch loom, handbrake loom and two additional feeds for the ignition switch for the runlock, and cuts in the TC loom to the switch...
Would the run-lock only maintain a normal idle? or could it be used to set a fast idle to spin the alternator fast enough to drive all the flashing lights?
Normal idle only... Not a PTO ;)
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I did get a throttle position /switch circuit malfunction code & I erased it hasn't returned. The only other codes I'm getting is the 02 Sensor heater circuit open (bank 1 sensor 1) & bank 2 sensor 1
Codes
0135-4
0135-8
0130-4
0150-4
Intermittent
Witch I still can't get to the bottom off :-\