Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: T.m.f on 21 September 2015, 14:47:52
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Just stripped head of tmf ,not happy with what i found,what has caused this as it has had coolant in it since i last changed head
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/martinthrapston/9be591d0a2a76a33d4e0d49d14687414_zps2hyxm9q7.jpg)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/martinthrapston/8afd9e9d75309e0514963ccb83e8876b_zpsr9k49wv9.jpg)
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/martinthrapston/a7c469500551acaa535868bce79b25d5_zpsbroktyyt.jpg)
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Looks like there is plenty of crudd in the system, I assume the correct antifreeze mix has been used?
What state is the cylinder head in around those end coolant passages?
No obvious signs of fire ring failure though.
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I used 50/50 mix of coolant,used red long life from gsf,will flush out cylinder block during the week,cylinder head is ok ,just looks like its built up around the gasket.
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Is that crud or has something attacked the gasket :-\
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It looks like crud has built up or something has reacted with the gasket,might try the blue coolant this time .
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It looks like crud has built up or something has reacted with the gasket,might try the blue coolant this time .
Nothing inherantly wrong wit using the blue, but if you do, make sure you flush, flush, flush the red out first. They don't like eachother.
My advice would be to flush flush flush and go for the red again. Any TC Vx Dealers near you?
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How long have you had the car?
If you have maintained the coolant concentration with a good quality corrosion inhibitor then I would say that you are seeing the after effects of previous neglect.
I would consider flushing the system with a descaler when you get it back together BUT there is a good chance that descaling and flushing the crud out will cause something to leak :-\
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Umm it did seem like a monkey had been working on it previous to when i brought it,have got stealers near me but they dont accept trade card,might put some fernox c/h cleaner through it once ive got it back together,flush it a few times and the use red coolant.
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Well had a break from the rain showers and now tmf has no engine in her,thats now on the garage floor,clutch off and fly wheel off,my rear oil leak was from rear crank seal,so that is going to be replace along with a new clutch as that was heavy to push down,friction plate was nearly down to rivets .
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/martinthrapston/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_192432_zpsluhhfyhp.jpg)
Thats the oil stain on fly wheel from rear seal leaking
(http://i700.photobucket.com/albums/ww7/martinthrapston/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_192427_zpskkficonr.jpg)
Thats the rear oil seal
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Could it be that a cheap and nasty head gasket was used in the first place :-\
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Gasket set cost £40 ,but going to run it on water for a couple of days and then flush it again,then try a descaler then flush and refill with coolant
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Done well there taking engine out on your own :y
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Rear crank seal,qh clutch kit and gasket set arrived today busy evenings and weekend once flywheel bolts arrive :y
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And nice new head bolts?
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Ofcourse they came with head gasket set,just waiting for flywheel bolts .
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Ofcourse they came with head gasket set,just waiting for flywheel bolts .
Another £40 special?
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When fitting the new crank seal will find that the seal lip wants to fit over the crank at exactly the same point as the seal outer wants to engage in the block - if you try to tap the seal home you will damage the seal lip and it will leak worse than ever.
You need to make a tool to guide the seal lip onto the crank - I have used thin brass or aluminium shim in the past but I imagine a thin rigid plastic would work well (like the old overhead projector sheets). Wrap a strip of your chosen material tightly around the crank and fix the overlap with sellotape to form a tube. Grease the outside of this then carefully insert into the oil seal. Offer the tube + oil seal up to the engine and the tube should ensure that the seal lip cannot get trapped as you tap the seal home.
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Ofcourse they came with head gasket set,just waiting for flywheel bolts .
Another £40 special?
Your more than welcome to buy me a complete gm gasket set,but im on a very tight budget so i buy within my means.
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Surely more cost effective to buy right once than to strip the engine every 3-4 months ::)
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When fitting the new crank seal will find that the seal lip wants to fit over the crank at exactly the same point as the seal outer wants to engage in the block - if you try to tap the seal home you will damage the seal lip and it will leak worse than ever.
You need to make a tool to guide the seal lip onto the crank - I have used thin brass or aluminium shim in the past but I imagine a thin rigid plastic would work well (like the old overhead projector sheets). Wrap a strip of your chosen material tightly around the crank and fix the overlap with sellotape to form a tube. Grease the outside of this then carefully insert into the oil seal. Offer the tube + oil seal up to the engine and the tube should ensure that the seal lip cannot get trapped as you tap the seal home.
Fizzy pop tins work well, as very thin,and pliable.lots of lube aswell.
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Surely more cost effective to buy right once than to strip the engine every 3-4 months ::)
To be honest, the cheaper gasket sets are generally ok assuming it has the likes of an Elring, Payen or similar good make head gasket.
Reality is that you re-use the cam seals and the inlet gaskets are all much of a much ness. If you don't remove the exhaust manifold from the head then that's one less thing to worry about (but if you do you need the metal multilayer gasket and not the composite rubbish) and ideally a genuine cam cover gasket.