Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: C20det on 21 October 2015, 23:23:06
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So I've been struggling to get the EML light sorted on my 3.2 ex plod
Codes:
0130
0135
Also detects misfire 1 3 & 5 now and again but not present when I run diagnostic
Tried plugs, coilpacks new sensors etc moving sensors to try & eliminate the problem with B1 S1 02 sensor heater circuit also Checked wiring & loom fuses
Can't seem to get to the bottom of this at all.
Then tonight I thought I would check the timing invade that was the issue and that all checked out to be fine & where it should be also had an auto spark do his tests to check if any of the wires where faulty and the guy suggested could it be a faulty ECU?? Anybody had any Ecu problems?
And now lately the throttle is sticking on but driving with the TC off seems to trigger it from revs stickying
Any ideas guys I'm really confused on what to do next , should I try a different Ecu?
Cheers, Carl
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They're pretty bomb proof but if someone has been fiddling (chipping for example) it could be faulty :-\
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They're pretty bomb proof but if someone has been fiddling (chipping for example) it could be faulty :-\
Chipping or TC wiring butchered by plod perhaps?
Very rare to see an ECU failure.
It is showing 2 errors on Bank 1 Sensor 1, (output and heater circuit) so it does sound like that sensor is playing up.
Can you see live data from the ECU, or get it to someone with a Tech 2?
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I've never had the Ecu out or tried chipping or anything along them lines ,
I'm cautious about replacing the Ecu as I don't think it will cure my problem.
Can't get it to any1 with tech 2 as I'm from Northern Ireland and don't know where to take it til
Yes I have ran live tests b1 s1 02 sensor runing very rich about 1500 mv & lean for b2 s1 around 600mv
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My friend has the same car as mine 3.2 would it be possible to swap the Ecu to try ? Or does this require coding of some sort, only reason I ask is to save to buying one for it not to cure the problem
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My friend has the same car as mine 3.2 would it be possible to swap the Ecu to try ? Or does this require coding of some sort, only reason I ask is to save to buying one for it not to cure the problem
yes it will all need re coding . i wouldn't go down that avenue.
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You would need to swap the ecu, the immobiliser unit from around the ignition lock and use the immobiliser chip from his key to start it. Not a massive amount of work to prove it one way or the other i suppose.
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Possible to do the swap but probably not going to cure the problem.
As plod do butcher the wiring somewhat I expect that it is loom related.
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Must admit although rare, Ive had and come across ECU faults all on 3.2's, two of them being Ex Police, having said that they have all produced similar issues, which are fine one minute then decide to through a Non Start or Intermittent Start problem (which can lead you chasing your own backside thinking its a Crankshaft, Fuel Pump or immobilizer problem) rather than a Miss Fired issue that you are describing. :-\
If your thinking its ECU related, first thing to check is the Earth return on the ECU, there's a jumper wire between the outer ECU casing which is one of the main Earth return, its held on with a 'all in one' terminated nut, make sure that's nice and tight, also check the Earth return between that point and the neg / ground or the battery, if you don't have a meter, you can put a jump lead between the ECU casing and Battery Negative (double check and don't put + volts on the ECU by mistake!!).
If you've got access to another 3.2 car, then yea, I would swop the ECU just to check, its a leas than 10 min job once you get the hang of it, unplug ECU and swop, Steering Wheel cowling off, unplug and pull off Immobiliser module and replace and swop the keyfob chip, just make sure you label everything up for each car as you go along. :y
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You need ecu, transponder ring from barrel and key from mates car...
Swap ecu with yours, remove cowling.
Unplug transponder ring and leave in place.
Tape mates key to his transponder ring and plug it in.
Use your key in the ignition.
Quicker and easier than stripping both cars.
I woukd however be inclined to fit your ecu to your mates car if that is working properly :-\
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Must admit although rare, Ive had and come across ECU faults all on 3.2's, two of them being Ex Police, having said that they have all produced similar issues, which are fine one minute then decide to through a Non Start or Intermittent Start problem (which can lead you chasing your own backside thinking its a Crankshaft, Fuel Pump or immobilizer problem) rather than a Miss Fired issue that you are describing. :-\
If your thinking its ECU related, first thing to check is the Earth return on the ECU, there's a jumper wire between the outer ECU casing which is one of the main Earth return, its held on with a 'all in one' terminated nut, make sure that's nice and tight, also check the Earth return between that point and the neg / ground or the battery, if you don't have a meter, you can put a jump lead between the ECU casing and Battery Negative (double check and don't put + volts on the ECU by mistake!!).
If you've got access to another 3.2 car, then yea, I would swop the ECU just to check, its a leas than 10 min job once you get the hang of it, unplug ECU and swop, Steering Wheel cowling off, unplug and pull off Immobiliser module and replace and swop the keyfob chip, just make sure you label everything up for each car as you go along. :y
Hopefully get a chance to swap them around start of next week he free to do so, just can't think what else could be causing this I will update soon as I can
thanks, Carl
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You need ecu, transponder ring from barrel and key from mates car...
Swap ecu with yours, remove cowling.
Unplug transponder ring and leave in place.
Tape mates key to his transponder ring and plug it in.
Use your key in the ignition.
Quicker and easier than stripping both cars.
I woukd however be inclined to fit your ecu to your mates car if that is working properly :-\
Cheers I will do it that way sounds a lot handier :y
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Heres a thought though When I swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1 with sensor 2 it brought up same faults but the codes where different it was 0141 rather than 0130 and 0135
Should this be right?
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Heres a thought though When I swapped Bank 1 Sensor 1 with sensor 2 it brought up same faults but the codes where different it was 0141 rather than 0130 and 0135
Should this be right?
Surely if it was a wiring problem in that loom it wouldn't change the codes? If I'm correct
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Unless the wiring fault is between the plug and the sensor... of course, the sensor could be the problem too ::)
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I've replaced them 2 front ones I bought second hand that was supposedly working 100% but I'm just going to bite the bullet & pay the £71+ vat for new ones think this is going to be only way off trying to elimate this problem :-\