Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Sir Sideways on 11 November 2015, 21:18:41
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Can someone point me in the right direction please?
My MID is unreadable, missing pixels etc. After removing it and opening it (to attempt the repair it using the guide), I found that the ribbon has a split in it where it joins the PCB. At very least it needs replacing with the same or upgrading preferably with the CCRT display or the better MID.
Heres a pic of mine I took when I had it out
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d54/james43543/Mobile%20Uploads/20151029_143345_zpspv9nbcww.jpg) (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/james43543/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151029_143345_zpspv9nbcww.jpg.html)
Would it be possible to upgrade to the CCRT display? would it be any different to changing to the other single MID type?
From reading other posts id need the plug with as much length of wire as poss, anything else?
Thanks in advance
Jim
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Your best bet will be like for like :y
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Thing is finding a good one with all pixels that will last. but, if theres too much work involved then I will settle for like for like.
Ill wait till I know what works involved before admitting defeat lol
Thanks for the reply
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Thing is finding a good one with all pixels that will last. but, if theres too much work involved then I will settle for like for like.
Ill wait till I know what works involved before admitting defeat lol
Thanks for the reply
The reason I say that is that the guide was written with facelift in mind, ie that's the car I did it on... CCRT display is only CCRT compatible and will probably involve alot of wiring/swapping looms.
If you have a Haynes manual and are any good with a wiring diagram it might be possible to retro fit a later MID with a single plug :-\ my guide could prove to be a useful reference used with Haynes for this :y cannot guarantee that it will work though, so on your head be it :y
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And on that note ill just stick to the like for like option.
Ive upgraded the standard head unit + screen to full satnav in a Vectra C before and that included rewiring the plug and adding a couple of extra wires but to be honest I don't fancy going that far again just to have a different MID so, ill be on the look for a replacement.
Thanks very much for the help :y
Jim
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I would recommend upgrading to the later one grey plug style mid. They dont suffer pixel issues. The yellow/black plug ones are useless. I even bought a new mid for silly money from Opel of the one in your picture. Lasted just over two years before the pixels started to fail again. Bought a second hand grey plug mid and plug and rewired following help from this forum and the haynes book. Be aware though that Opel/vauxhall changed the fuel range readings late 1995 so if your car is older you will also need to change the float in the tank and the circuit foil on the back of the instrument to get the fuel range right. If your speedo is divided in 10km/h intervalls you getaway with just changing mid. If you got the old speedo with 5 km/h lines you must also change instrument(foil) and float. On Opel anyway. Guessing vauxhall is similar although you probably read mp/h. Some work involved but you will then have a mid that lasts. And it got two more functions than the old one. A very wortwhile upgrade in my opinion:)
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My idea for repairing/replacing mine is to use a broken, dead-pixel early MID and break it up, to use the sockets as part of an 'adapter loom', which, when combined it with a scrap of loom from a MFL-onward car this avoids actually chopping into my car's loom (plenty of that's been done already, no more)
That way I spend hours and hours sitting in my living room soldering, rather than hours and hours scrunched up in my car's interior with the dials and heater vents out. Therefore should be a simple plug-n-play 5 minute job... if it doesn't work, simply pop the old duff-pixelled MID back in, and try again.. sat comfy indoors drinking tea.
Hope that makes sense. :y
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I seem to recall having a grey connector mid somewhere......will have to have a look
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To the OP - just so you know, any MFL-onward MID can be configured/reprogrammed (with Tech2, and Marks DTM is one of those knowledgeable chaps who can do this for you) to your car. However, if you're lucky, if you get a car of the same engine and gearbox, then no tech2-ing is required.
ie: after wiring adaptations (which you'd be doing anyway) a 2000-reg 2.5V6 Auto MID can fit in a 1994 2.5V6 Auto car. :)
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If I were to go for the later grey plug mid, do I just combine my 2 plugs into the grey? if so that's not too bad, but defo more interested in doing what DBG says about makin an adaptor loom
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I need to learn how to read wiring diagrams and solder first :y
But yes, I'm sure the later MIDs get combined into one plug. One guy on here has done it, hopefully he sees this thread and offers his wisdom :y
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I suspect my impressive selection of Omega displays must have melted, as none have landed yet :'(
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I need to learn how to read wiring diagrams and solder first :y
But yes, I'm sure the later MIDs get combined into one plug. One guy on here has done it, hopefully he sees this thread and offers his wisdom :y
piece of piddle mate... if I can do it, and all that ;D
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Tank characteristics cannot be programmed however. If op has a 1994 omega he will get the wrong range signal if he dont change fuel sender and instrument print plate. I may be wrong, but i am fairly confident about this.
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Inclined to agree with you there. Luckily the senders should/must be a very easy part to get hold of for Omegas, as far as I'm aware they're al the same from 95-96 onwards, or thereabouts.
Also, Webby, appreciate your faith in me :y
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I swapped my 2 plug mid for a later single one using Haynes and a guide by markdtm. I disassembled the pins from the plugs and pushed the pins from the car loom back into the new single plug. It's a little fiddly and the pins don't exactly hold in place until the plug is back together, but it works perfectly and means no cutting of wires was involved.
Just make sure you get the pins the correct way round, I confused the 20 28 as the zero has a line through it.
I must get it programmed though, only been a year and its depressing as when I fill the car up it claims I will get over 1000 miles out of the tank.
Give me a shout if you want any more info.
Al
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Appreciated!
Once all the accident damage is sorted, then other 'cosmetic' stuff will be off the backburner! :y
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Tank characteristics cannot be programmed however. If op has a 1994 omega he will get the wrong range signal if he dont change fuel sender and instrument print plate. I may be wrong, but i am fairly confident about this.
I don't believe so, I am pretty certain the tank contents signal is same across the range
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Tank characteristics cannot be programmed however. If op has a 1994 omega he will get the wrong range signal if he dont change fuel sender and instrument print plate. I may be wrong, but i am fairly confident about this.
I don't believe so, I am pretty certain the tank contents signal is same across the range
All i know is from when i did this myself. On my 1994 Opel omega 3,0mv6. After rewiring and programing everything worked fine, except on full tank when the fuel gauge showed full, the computer would say 175km range. When the tank reached 2/3 full the computer would just show "F" the rest of the time. Searched some German sites and found that the signal was a different range on 94 and early 95 omegas. Checked fuel gauge parts and found 4 different for the omega. Early and late version saloon, and early and late estate. Got a new version (late 95 and up) gauge from ebay, and found a instrument from a newer car. Mated my old instrument with the white plasticback with the printplate on it from the new instrument as the difference was said to be one of the resistors on the back. Anyway, with new gauge and modified instrument the range was spot on without any programing. Also if you search mid codes on Google you can see that the 95 mid is the only one who can be programmed to tank characteristics 1 or 2 as both was in use that year.