Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: tunnie on 27 November 2015, 13:03:06
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At the end of the house, we have a conservatory. It has the usual issues of hot in the summer, cold in winter.
Now in an ideal world, I would bash the thing down and do it right with a full beans extension like MarksDTM has done. My issue is with Little Miss T being 18 months old, a Wedding next year and other things, I don't have £15-30k kicking around. To top it off this is not a long term house, maybe 3 or 4 years more and we may look at getting something bigger if we can.
Another option was more heaters, but that's like using a blow torch to stop a colander leaking water. A battle you will never win...
So I stumbled across few sites offering insulation. Looks fairly straight forward, using something like super quilt:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/ybs-superquilt-multilayer-insulation-1-5-x-10m/68120 (http://www.screwfix.com/p/ybs-superquilt-multilayer-insulation-1-5-x-10m/68120)
You line the roof with this, fix batterns then Plasterboard it.
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/PZnR_4xFOP4/hqdefault.jpg)
This appeals greatly as one side of the conservatory is the garage wall, so doing this, plus plastering the current brick exposed wall would really make it feel more linked to the house.
These image sums it up almost exactly what I am considering....
http://res.cloudinary.com/conservatory-roof-insulation/image/upload/v1424270388/insulation-process/3.jpg (http://res.cloudinary.com/conservatory-roof-insulation/image/upload/v1424270388/insulation-process/3.jpg)
http://inceil.co.uk/images/home/example-6.jpg (http://inceil.co.uk/images/home/example-6.jpg)
Has anyone done this?
It does not look *that* hard? Insulate up top, not sure what its held up with first, but then just put some batterns up and board over it?
Any ideas cost wise? At approx guess I'd say the conservatory is 15ft Wide and 10feet long.
Looks like DIY or employing a joiner would be far cheaper way and sourcing materials myself. Rather than external company doing everything.
Thoughts?
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What does doing that add in weight terms to the roof :-\
Be better off painting the top with solar reflective paint... or replacing the glass with some Scandinavian ultra efficient glass :-\
Of course flattening it and starting fresh would make more sense ::)
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I'd love to flatten it, but no budget for that.
Well I could flatten it, but no budget to re-build ::)
Quite a few companies offer it, so assume these roofs can take that weight :-\
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There are a few options about at the moment, by far the best are the replacement light weight roof setups.
What your photos show are a quilt plus some poorly positioned battens then plasterboard, not sure how the roof vents and manages the condensate with that (I imagine you could get damp bits at the bottom edges and plasterboard staining.
An Option I looked at was to counter batten the roof supports with 25mm x 25mm wood and fit 25mm Kingspan (you can get a white backed one instead of silver foil to improve the look from outside or install a vapour barrier of some sort first) in between the battens, over this you place 37.5mm insulated plasterboard.
This method allowed an air space between the polycarbonate and the insulation which with some basic mods can be vented to manage condensate.
Cost estimate DIY, probably about 20-25 per square meter of ceiling space, all depends if you want the plasterboard skimming.
Weight wise it adds very little weight.
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Hi Mark,
Was hoping you would respond :)
Yes looking to skim the plasterboard, as well as the brick to make it all look neat.
I'm just trying to picture what you describe...
Is it this:
(http://www.davekendall.org/images/gallery/insulated-conservatory-roofs/conservatory-roof-insulation-wd1.jpg)
Or more like this?
(http://www.warmcool.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/05/14.jpg)
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First one :y
Second one, as per the quilt version, total ignores the condensation facts!
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First one :y
Thanks :y :y :y
Would you say this makes a significant improvement to holding heat and cool in the summer?
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It will do, restricts heat in and reduces heat out, maybe 20% improvement on losses?
Trick is to maximise the amount of insulation you fit, this will be dependent on the distance available between the top of the windows and the bottom of the roof bars (there is usually a plastic trim piece of circa 100-200mm runs around the top).
Increase the insulation thickness as much as possible to reduce losses, e.g. if the distance is circa 150mm then use 50mm battens with 50mm insulation between and 37.5mm insulated plasterboard (this is made up of 37.5mm insulation and 12.5mm plasterboard so is 50mm over all).
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It will do, restricts heat in and reduces heat out, (http://maybe 20% improvement on losses?)
Trick is to maximise the amount of insulation you fit, this will be dependent on the distance available between the top of the windows and the bottom of the roof bars (there is usually a plastic trim piece of circa 100-200mm runs around the top).
Increase the insulation thickness as much as possible to reduce losses, e.g. if the distance is circa 150mm then use 50mm battens with 50mm insulation between and 37.5mm insulated plasterboard (this is made up of 37.5mm insulation and 12.5mm plasterboard so is 50mm over all).
Only 20% improvement than currently all glass roof? :-\
I'll take some photos of my exact setup at the weekend for your thoughts if that is ok?
Can I ask:
1) Does it need to be done in smaller squares, can you do use the 25mm batterns and follow the current joists in the conservatory roof? Thus giving you longer 'strips' of kingspan?
(section of this kingspan which is the width and length of the window pannel) Or is it better to do it in smaller sections?
2) Can I also ask how this kingspan fits/holds to the batterns? Assume it's only temp, as afterwards the plasterboard will hold it up? Because you need to maintain a gap between the king span and the roof glass? Or can they touch?
Thanks again for all advice, very much appreciated :y
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Yes, only circa 20% based on:
(http://img1.teambasementsystems.com/uploads/blog/1357/heat-loss_1351715612.jpg)
It may of course be more but is dependent on how well insulted the rest is (as you may be losing 50% of your heat out the roof because the walls and floors are already well insulated..)
You can do it in huge sheets but (2.4m x 1.2m), there needs to be enough batten to support the plasterboard (the insulation weighs nothing!) and the insulation should be cut to be snug, you can bang a bit of expanding foam in and then trim it to secure it if needed.
The battens need to be fixed at 90 degrees to the roof supports and the insulation between them, you have to maintain an air gap between the insulation and the roof :y
The battens want to be spaced such that the plasterboard edges meet on a batten .
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Yes understand what you mean on the batterns, reason for asking is huge chunk of the roof is simple straight lean to "strips".
If the battern runs the length of the current "beam" that separates the glass panels, that should give enough support? I think I need to provide photos of my exact setup.
Ohh yeah the floor, that was shit on insulation. It's got same floor boards as rest of the down stairs, but in the conservatory the floor was freezing. So we put underlay and carpet/rugs on top. Which has made it much better. Not ideal, but good enough for now.
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Yes understand what you mean on the batterns, reason for asking is huge chunk of the roof is simple straight lean to "strips".
If the battern runs the length of the current "beam" that separates the glass panels, that should give enough support? I think I need to provide photos of my exact setup.
Ohh yeah the floor, that was shit on insulation. It's got same floor boards as rest of the down stairs, but in the conservatory the floor was freezing. So we put underlay and carpet/rugs on top. Which has made it much better. Not ideal, but good enough for now.
Cough COUNTER BATTEN cough
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Yes understand what you mean on the batterns, reason for asking is huge chunk of the roof is simple straight lean to "strips".
If the battern runs the length of the current "beam" that separates the glass panels, that should give enough support? I think I need to provide photos of my exact setup.
Ohh yeah the floor, that was shit on insulation. It's got same floor boards as rest of the down stairs, but in the conservatory the floor was freezing. So we put underlay and carpet/rugs on top. Which has made it much better. Not ideal, but good enough for now.
Cough COUNTER BATTEN cough
Ahh yes. :-[ :-[ :-[
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So basically this....
(http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1176/4610078836_41050e1c05_z.jpg)
Time to get some quotes I think :)
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Someone will shoot me down in flames but I think when looked into this a conservatory has to have at least a partially transparent roof or it needs planning permission.
A friend had a house sale fall though because he'd improved his conservatory and when the house was surveyed he had an "extension" without planning permission.
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Planning permission is not required due to the fact that the exterior of the conservatory has not been changed
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Tunnie
Might be a bit left field but can you not just "close off" the conservatory during the cold weather. e.g. put some heavy lined curtains between it and the room.
That way you save a lot of money, it is quick, no planning permission and it is temporary. How often do you actually want to use your conservatory in cold weather?
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As the house has to have a proper exterior door between house and conservatory, by law, so the conservatory is little more than an outbuilding, just don't use it. Simples.
Saves effort, time, money and worry :)
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The conservatory is the dining room ;)
Someone will shoot me down in flames but I think when looked into this a conservatory has to have at least a partially transparent roof or it needs planning permission.
A friend had a house sale fall though because he'd improved his conservatory and when the house was surveyed he had an "extension" without planning permission.
Don't need permission for even brick built extrensions now, many here have gone 15ft out. No permission needed. :y
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Tunnie
Might be a bit left field but can you not just "close off" the conservatory during the cold weather. e.g. put some heavy lined curtains between it and the room.
That way you save a lot of money, it is quick, no planning permission and it is temporary. How often do you actually want to use your conservatory in cold weather?
Already has doors into it, we want to use the room :y
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As the house has to have a proper exterior door between house and conservatory, by law
Just been researching this, if conservatory meets certain regs. Eg double glazed roof, not polycarbinate you don't have to have an exterior door. SIL house has this, can walk freely between kitchen and large conservatory.
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There you go then, reglaze it :y
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But even if they are double glazed all over they have the thermal properties of a greenhouse. Far too hot in summer, far too cold in winter.
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There you go then, reglaze it :y
Its already double glazed, hence asking about this insulation and platerboard solution. :y
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But even if they are double glazed all over they have the thermal properties of a greenhouse. Far too hot in summer, far too cold in winter.
Yup. Which is why I'm looking at counter batterns + insulation + plasterboard.
Not ideal, but given I can't afford full beans extension. About the only solution :(
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There you go then, reglaze it :y
Its already double glazed, hence asking about this insulation and platerboard solution. :y
There's always solar reflective triple glazed...
Joking aside, have you considered the light aspect? How much light does it let in to the next room as it is vs how dark it could become :-\
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If cost is a serious consideration, wouldn't you be better saving towards what you ultimately want rather than such a significant compromise? Not having a pop, just playimg devil's advocate ;)
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Light we have considered, but the end windows should let enough in.
I'd love to save up, but with a wedding towards end of next year that's taking the funds. Then need to start saving again, which would take a while. Hence this temp solution for now, as I'll prob get someone in to do counter batterns and plasterboard install professionally.
Would cost around £1k I think, which is far cheaper than new whole roof solutions and would reduce the issue we have now as we want to use the room all year around.
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How would that look from the outside though Tunnie? Would you paint the glass roof or something? :-\
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How would that look from the outside though Tunnie? Would you paint the glass roof or something? :-\
Been considering that too, I'm considering UPVC cut to size on order. That are the same colour, width and length of the current plastic pannels, then fixing them on top.
So from outside it looks neat and covered :y
A bit like this, but with white plastic and not 'puffed' out, just flat.
(http://thermalconservatoryroofs.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/thermotec-conservatory-roof-system.jpg)
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Found something closer to what I would do, this:
(http://thermotec.s3-external-3.amazonaws.com/conservatory-roofing-g1/conservatory-roofing-15.jpg)
As from the inside it would have plastboard etc, so look nice. Only see this view from the bedroom or right at the back of the garden.
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Maybe that 'puffed out' roof in the first picture has extra external insulation? Looks OK to me as well. :y
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Maybe that 'puffed out' roof in the first picture has extra external insulation? Looks OK to me as well. :y
Probably, but surely it's not good to have insulation on the outside? :-\
I much prefer idea of it on the "inside" with plasterboard, to really make it feel part of the house from the inside.
Covering top of the glass is purely cosmetic once have the inside sorted, to hide the insulation, hence just some UPVC plastic just to cover the glass panels. Think that should look ok :)
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In the olde'n days when it was cold we put a jumper on, tut ice on windows. Was a good extra pane o glass, and in tut summer we'd take us coats off. ;D
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Maybe that 'puffed out' roof in the first picture has extra external insulation? Looks OK to me as well. :y
Probably, but surely it's not good to have insulation on the outside? :-\
I much prefer idea of it on the "inside" with plasterboard, to really make it feel part of the house from the inside.
Covering top of the glass is purely cosmetic once have the inside sorted, to hide the insulation, hence just some UPVC plastic just to cover the glass panels. Think that should look ok :)
There's nothing wrong with external insulation as long as its done properly to minimise condensation. I expect those 'puffed out' panels have a layer of insulation inside with a gap to the glass. ;) You could incorporate some insulation to your external cladding as well as doing the internals, it dosn't have to be one or the other as they would work together. The external insulation working to keep the cold out and the internal working to keep the heat in. :)
External insulation is becoming quite popular on old stone buildings, where 100mm thick insulation boards are mounted on battens to the exterior walls and then rendered over with a coloured flexible acrylic render. I see a lot of this happening in the Welsh Valleys and apparently its very effective. :y
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Maybe that 'puffed out' roof in the first picture has extra external insulation? Looks OK to me as well. :y
Probably, but surely it's not good to have insulation on the outside? :-\
I much prefer idea of it on the "inside" with plasterboard, to really make it feel part of the house from the inside.
Covering top of the glass is purely cosmetic once have the inside sorted, to hide the insulation, hence just some UPVC plastic just to cover the glass panels. Think that should look ok :)
There's nothing wrong with external insulation as long as its done properly to minimise condensation. I expect those 'puffed out' panels have a layer of insulation inside with a gap to the glass. ;) You could incorporate some insulation to your external cladding as well as doing the internals, it dosn't have to be one or the other as they would work together. The external insulation working to keep the cold out and the internal working to keep the heat in. :)
External insulation is becoming quite popular on old stone buildings, where 100mm thick insulation boards are mounted on battens to the exterior walls and then rendered over with a coloured flexible acrylic render. I see a lot of this happening in the Welsh Valleys and apparently its very effective. :y
The reason housing associations are, thermal cladding property's is they are getting a nice 'grant' from hmg, and it improves there green foot print, the same grants are available to every body who qualifies, think its done thro the carbon trust, they do all the boiler and insulation grants too.
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Yes that's true bg, as I expect it would cost north of £5k to clad a terraced house and it would take a long time to pay that back from your savings. ::)
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Maybe that 'puffed out' roof in the first picture has extra external insulation? Looks OK to me as well. :y
Probably, but surely it's not good to have insulation on the outside? :-\
I much prefer idea of it on the "inside" with plasterboard, to really make it feel part of the house from the inside.
Covering top of the glass is purely cosmetic once have the inside sorted, to hide the insulation, hence just some UPVC plastic just to cover the glass panels. Think that should look ok :)
There's nothing wrong with external insulation as long as its done properly to minimise condensation. I expect those 'puffed out' panels have a layer of insulation inside with a gap to the glass. ;) You could incorporate some insulation to your external cladding as well as doing the internals, it dosn't have to be one or the other as they would work together. The external insulation working to keep the cold out and the internal working to keep the heat in. :)
External insulation is becoming quite popular on old stone buildings, where 100mm thick insulation boards are mounted on battens to the exterior walls and then rendered over with a coloured flexible acrylic render. I see a lot of this happening in the Welsh Valleys and apparently its very effective. :y
Good points raised there, will consider them. Would there be any weight issues having insulation on both sides? Insulation itself is nothing, but thinking of what i needs to be incased in.
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Three quarters of the roof and at least half the external walls need to be glazed or it becomes an extension.
next post
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Someone will shoot me down in flames but I think when looked into this a conservatory has to have at least a partially transparent roof or it needs planning permission.
A friend had a house sale fall though because he'd improved his conservatory and when the house was surveyed he had an "extension" without planning permission.
Three quarters of the roof and at least half the external walls need to be glazed or it becomes an extension.
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Install an air-con system and you can use it all year round. Cool in summer, warm in winter.
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Install an air-con system and you can use it all year round. Cool in summer, warm in winter.
After insulating may consider this, but without it I'd be pishing in the wind!
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As the house has to have a proper exterior door between house and conservatory, by law
Just been researching this, if conservatory meets certain regs. Eg double glazed roof, not polycarbinate you don't have to have an exterior door. SIL house has this, can walk freely between kitchen and large conservatory.
Yes you do, read the building regs, it has nothing to do with planing
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As the house has to have a proper exterior door between house and conservatory, by law
Just been researching this, if conservatory meets certain regs. Eg double glazed roof, not polycarbinate you don't have to have an exterior door. SIL house has this, can walk freely between kitchen and large conservatory.
Yes you do, read the building regs, it has nothing to do with planing
Thanks. :y
See my PM? Took some photos of my setup, think I can use 25mm kingspan?
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Here you go Tunnie a company that supplies and fits those exterior roof panels. Their ad was in the local paper.
http://www.greenspaceconservatories.co.uk/
Although they're probably the sort of 'Home Improvement' company that will send out a 'Surveyor' who will give an inflated quote and when you cough will drop it by 75%. ::) 10 year warranty too..... If they're still around! ;D
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Here you go Tunnie a company that supplies and fits those exterior roof panels. Their ad was in the local paper.
http://www.greenspaceconservatories.co.uk/
Although they're probably the sort of 'Home Improvement' company that will send out a 'Surveyor' who will give an inflated quote and when you cough will drop it by 75%. ::) 10 year warranty too..... If they're still around! ;D
Thanks for posting this :y :y :y
Yes I bet when they came around, it will be just my luck they have a special deal on that day ::)
I've got someone coming to take a look tonight, for the internal work (counter battern stuff + boarding) he's done some jobs for me before and his joinery work is very good. My plan is for me to supply bits, buy them first, then pay him to do the hard/skilled bit of batterning and fitting it all.
I'll then paint it all, to a bid to keep costs down and spread them out.
I think I'll then review it, then consider these type of solutions. Although I'd be very tempted to try DIY solution, more Kingspan in the slots on top of the glass, then uPVC over the top were the top of the beams are. How hard can it be? ::) ;D
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Well if you can't do the internal battening and boarding then you have no chance on the more complex outside stuff ;D
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Well if you can't do the internal battening and boarding then you have no chance on the more complex outside stuff ;D
:( :( :-[ :-[ ;D ;D ;D
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Well if you can't do the internal battening and boarding then you have no chance on the more complex outside stuff ;D
I'm not convinced of the precise meaning of "can't" here. "Can't" as in beyond capabilities, of "can't" be arsed... :-X
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Needs to look professional, I've never done anything like this before :(
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Needs to look professional, I've never done anything like this before :(
No problem Tunnie, stick a few of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-EXPANDED-2-POLYSTYRENE-FOAM-SHEETS-2400x1200x50mm-/190913325530?hash=item2c735229da:g:dBYAAOSwBvNTqr2f) up with duct tape and when you come to sell take them down again. Job jobbed! :y
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Needs to look professional, I've never done anything like this before :(
No problem Tunnie, stick a few of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-x-EXPANDED-2-POLYSTYRENE-FOAM-SHEETS-2400x1200x50mm-/190913325530?hash=item2c735229da:g:dBYAAOSwBvNTqr2f) up with duct tape and when you come to sell take them down again. Job jobbed! :y
;D ;D ;D ;D
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So this is what I would do.
1) Apply an adhesive UV stable white out film to the underside of the glass:
http://activewindowfilms.co.uk/total-privacy/78-total-light-whiteout-100-privacy-window-tinting-tint-film-51-76-100-152cm.html
This improves the external appearance.
2) Apply white painted 25mm x 50mm battens screwed to the roof beams
3) Install white backed 25mm celotex between the battens, tape joints with aluminium tape on underside.
4) Fix 50mm insulated plasterboard (37.5mm Celotex, 12.5mm plasterboard) to battens with 65mm plasterboard screws
5) Tape plasterboard joints and skim
6) Seal finished ceiling to UPVC.
7) Paint and make good electrics.
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Tape plasterboard joints eh? In my day it was bandage scrim. :(
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Bandage and plaster ;D ;D
Oh the bad old days
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So this is what I would do.
1) Apply an adhesive UV stable white out film to the underside of the glass:
http://activewindowfilms.co.uk/total-privacy/78-total-light-whiteout-100-privacy-window-tinting-tint-film-51-76-100-152cm.html
This improves the external appearance.
2) Apply white painted 25mm x 50mm battens screwed to the roof beams
3) Install white backed 25mm celotex between the battens, tape joints with aluminium tape on underside.
4) Fix 50mm insulated plasterboard (37.5mm Celotex, 12.5mm plasterboard) to battens with 65mm plasterboard screws
5) Tape plasterboard joints and skim
6) Seal finished ceiling to UPVC.
7) Paint and make good electrics.
Thanks very much for this, it sounds oh-so simple and very tempting to DIY, I just don't feel my work would make it look professional. :-[
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Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong! ;D :y
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The laws are here (a high level guide).
http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/permission/commonprojects/conservatories/
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Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong! ;D :y
Well so far in the whole house, I don't think anything is plastered. It's all just plain plasterboard, which has been painted white. :-\
I think it's how the batterns would work, which puts me off, the main 'straight' panels are simple, but the corner work causes me concern. I would be happy with just simple straight angle down at one side, but it's how I would go about that, given there is so much glass.
I'm also more than a tad nervous about screwing woodern batterns into uPVC beams, that have two big ass bits of double glazing joining. (or at least in the same beam)
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Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong! ;D :y
As in: half full can of paint, topped off with a butane/air mix, spark plug fitted into lid sort of way?
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Something else... sorry! :-[ :-[ ::) ;D
This counter battern stuff..
Can see myself doing the below, fix a battern like this, then on each uPVC "Beam" where it leans down/goes up to the house, screw another battern along there. All way up to the house.
(http://thumbsnap.com/s/e4SCFw2r.jpg)
That would give me an "edge" or a frame to ram 25mm insulation in, with a snug fit. Can I then just screw 50mm plastboard to the batterns? (assume meeting in the middle) with 65mm screws going into the battern? (I would have to cut the plastboard?)
Or do I then need to run batterns across the other way, once the initial 25mm insulation is in? But surely this would create an additional 25mm gap? Between insulation and insulated plasterboard? These counter batterns are then the right size for plaster board? I'm thinking as I type here, does the counter battern need to be much, much thinner? *think a light bulb just turned on ;D
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So once beams are up and insulation is in, thinner smaller counter beams go up, but in the exact same size as the plastboard bits? Meaning as less joins as possible as the plasterboard does not have to align to the main 25mm beams?
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Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong! ;D :y
Ah, but your instructions let me down, Master, and all my paint ended on the floor. You didn't account for incompetence ;D
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Given you would get a plasterer for the 'finish' and even TB can paint, what could possibly go wrong! ;D :y
Well so far in the whole house, I don't think anything is plastered. It's all just plain plasterboard, which has been painted white. :-\
I think it's how the batterns would work, which puts me off, the main 'straight' panels are simple, but the corner work causes me concern. I would be happy with just simple straight angle down at one side, but it's how I would go about that, given there is so much glass.
I'm also more than a tad nervous about screwing woodern batterns into uPVC beams, that have two big ass bits of double glazing joining. (or at least in the same beam)
Most rafters are like the one in the pic. If you find the centre and screw through with a "self cutter" you`ll hit the aluminium
(https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcSBi6hbPTwSbaIK7SOMzeTctG3y8DQX0Z73T4NY75NcQmZVrq2p)
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Thanks Rob, luckily the centre has a clear dip so it can be seen. :)
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Just dragging this up. The usual handy-man guy I use for jobs I can't do has gone off grid, not heard from him for weeks :( I've rung some other people, last chap really was not interested. He suggested roof blinds instead ::)
I tried to make the point of how that would make it warmer, but he said wooden blinds are better. :-\ - Perhaps they would on the side windows, but not the roof!
I don't have any other options, I don't have £20k to do a proper brick job and replace the UPVC crap. So doing kingspan style insulation and insulated plaster board is my best option, along with upgrading the heater.
Any one recommend a trades person in the Surrey/Hants boarder area?
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Let me speak to my bricky mate, see if he knows someone :y
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Let me speak to my bricky mate, see if he knows someone :y
Cheers :y :y
Grown a bit disheartened with the project after speaking to that guy, he was quite adamant it would make no difference. But surely by insulating the whole roof, with fair amount of insulation and plaster board, instead of just plain glass would help. :-\
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Let me speak to my bricky mate, see if he knows someone :y
Cheers :y :y
Grown a bit disheartened with the project after speaking to that guy, he was quite adamant it would make no difference. But surely by insulating the whole roof, with fair amount of insulation and plaster board, instead of just plain glass would help. :-\
Didn't sound like a professor of thermodynamics, though, to be honest. More like a tradesman who couldn't be @rsed with the job.
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Let me speak to my bricky mate, see if he knows someone :y
Cheers :y :y
Grown a bit disheartened with the project after speaking to that guy, he was quite adamant it would make no difference. But surely by insulating the whole roof, with fair amount of insulation and plaster board, instead of just plain glass would help. :-\
Didn't sound like a professor of thermodynamics, though, to be honest. More like a tradesman who couldn't be @rsed with the job.
Yup. Even more so when he said he would quote me on the job via an SMS, if I liked the price, only then would he send out a 'proper' one. Lazy Bas..... >:(
Annoys me, as I'm sure I could do some if not all of it, just need a bit of guidance/expert on site for the initial fitting.
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Be very careful sticking something on the inside of the glass, the thermal stress on the glass is likely to cause failure, then you will have a shed load of problems.
I work with glass in commercial and residential applications and there is a lot of science and thermal modelling that goes into what glass, what coating and what is on the inside (blinds, reflective film, air space) that affects end performance and avoids failure.
The structure also has allowances for thermal movement fix that in place with battens and plasterboard and you potentially could have issues
Replace the glass with the PPC aluminium insulated sandwich panels, light enough not to cause problems and a clean install
Do it once do it right
just my 2p of course
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Thanks for the input :y :y :y
Nothing would be attached to the glass itself, that would have an air gap for the insulation. So it remains untouched :y :)
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Thanks for the input :y :y :y
Nothing would be attached to the glass itself, that would have an air gap for the insulation. So it remains untouched :y :)
You could still get a lot of heat building up between glass and insulation on a sunny day, though. That may damage the glass. I had a sealed unit crack due to a blind being down on a sunny, yet subzero, day. I guess the temperature differential between inside and outside killed it.
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Hummmm, well I would put that window tint stuff on inside of the glass, so that it would reduce the heat. I guess that could always be a next phase, if anything did happen to them.
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Any half decent window company should be able to replace the glass with insulated polycarbonate panels for minimal cost/effort... Best of both and you then have the option of reglazing later on without drilling holes all over the place :y
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Just to clarify putting anything on the inner face of the glass will cause heat build up within the double glazed unit.
Be it stick on film, blinds or fully boarded.
In the unlikely event you have toughened units it might be ok, but generally all roof lights have at least one side of the DG unit laminate float glass (to stop people falling through it or if it shatters falling on someone) so chances are it will break due to thermal build up
Look for the kite mark on the DG unit, no kite mark then plain float glass