Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 20 December 2015, 18:50:44
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My auto box is shifting absolutely fine. Cars on 112,000 miles but never had an ATF change. I went to top the box up at around 100,000 miles and even though there's signs of a leak (at the tail of the GB where it meets the prop) it was virtually full and took hardly any to fill.
I have read that on high mileage vehicles (I'm sure in omega terms mines still a baby) that changing the fluid can actually cause the gearbox to fail shortly after.
Has anyone experience of this happening?
Cos if not I'm going to siphon the fluid sometime after Xmas and put new in :y
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I have no experience of this but i fail to see how a ' oil ' gearbox or otherwise is sealed for life .... we change engine oil so why not gearbox oil ?
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O young bear.
buy a set of sump gaskets from jpat, drop sumps, remove filter and clean, blow cooler thro, then refil with 8 litres of dex2/3. I use shell spirex(donax). :)
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I have no experience of this but i fail to see how a ' oil ' gearbox or otherwise is sealed for life .... we change engine oil so why not gearbox oil ?
The main reason why you change engine oil regularly is because it gets dirty from the combustion process. Gearboxes don't suffer from this, and so oil changes aren't required anywhere near as often. But I do agree that considering them to be sealed is a bad idea.
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My auto box is shifting absolutely fine. Cars on 112,000 miles but never had an ATF change. I went to top the box up at around 100,000 miles and even though there's signs of a leak (at the tail of the GB where it meets the prop) it was virtually full and took hardly any to fill.
I have read that on high mileage vehicles (I'm sure in omega terms mines still a baby) that changing the fluid can actually cause the gearbox to fail shortly after.
Has anyone experience of this happening?
Cos if not I'm going to siphon the fluid sometime after Xmas and put new in :y
I think that rumour about people having box failures soon after is down to using the wrong oil, or, let's be honest, the main reason for most people to change their gearbox oil is because the thing isn't working properly. When people say 'I did that gearbox oil change thing, and the thing still broke. moan. grumble.' perhaps fail to mention the thing was on its last legs in the first place. :y Not many people practice the 'preventative maintenance' that many do on here. :)
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My auto box is shifting absolutely fine. Cars on 112,000 miles but never had an ATF change. I went to top the box up at around 100,000 miles and even though there's signs of a leak (at the tail of the GB where it meets the prop) it was virtually full and took hardly any to fill.
I have read that on high mileage vehicles (I'm sure in omega terms mines still a baby) that changing the fluid can actually cause the gearbox to fail shortly after.
Has anyone experience of this happening?
Cos if not I'm going to siphon the fluid sometime after Xmas and put new in :y
I think that rumour about people having box failures soon after is down to using the wrong oil, or, let's be honest, the main reason for most people to change their gearbox oil is because the thing isn't working properly. When people say 'I did that gearbox oil change thing, and the thing still broke. moan. grumble.' perhaps fail to mention the thing was on its last legs in the first place. :y Not many people practice the 'preventative maintenance' that many do on here. :)
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The dealer I purchased My Merc from believes in preventative maintenance, the auto box oil was changed along with fuel air & pollen filters also sixteen new plugs engine oil & filter . I will keep this maintenance up to date, my old 2.6 never missed a beat in 65,000 miles, serviced as per schedule.
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My auto box is shifting absolutely fine. Cars on 112,000 miles but never had an ATF change. I went to top the box up at around 100,000 miles and even though there's signs of a leak (at the tail of the GB where it meets the prop) it was virtually full and took hardly any to fill.
I have read that on high mileage vehicles (I'm sure in omega terms mines still a baby) that changing the fluid can actually cause the gearbox to fail shortly after.
Has anyone experience of this happening?
Cos if not I'm going to siphon the fluid sometime after Xmas and put new in :y
I think that rumour about people having box failures soon after is down to using the wrong oil, or, let's be honest, the main reason for most people to change their gearbox oil is because the thing isn't working properly. When people say 'I did that gearbox oil change thing, and the thing still broke. moan. grumble.' perhaps fail to mention the thing was on its last legs in the first place. :y Not many people practice the 'preventative maintenance' that many do on here. :)
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The dealer I purchased My Merc from believes in preventative maintenance, the auto box oil was changed along with fuel air & pollen filters also sixteen new plugs engine oil & filter . I will keep this maintenance up to date, my old 2.6 never missed a beat in 65,000 miles, serviced as per schedule.
ATF is a Mercedes Service item and is scheduled as such. It's details like this that makes Main dealer servicing SEEM expensive. And why going diy/back street on a previous fmbsh car is a bad idea... little bits get overlooked.
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thanks for the replies ladies.
ill give it a go. if my GB dies you lot can club together and buy me a new one ;D
:y :y :y
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ps, this is the shizzle a bear needs, right? my box is AR25
http://www.carlube.co.uk/transmission-fluids/carlube-atf-q3-automatic-transmission-fluid
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Believe as long as it's Dex 3 then it's good to go.Filter[if wanted/needed]and gaskets for both sumps available through ABS at reasonable cost.
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But if you're going to change it Webby, just syphoning will only get a limited amount out, and will not clean the filter or identify any other issues which may show up in the detritus in the sump. It is not a difficult job to drop the 2 sumps and clean the filter. :y
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Thanks guys. To be totally honest I just wanted to get away with a siphon. I know your right of course. I'm just a bit lazy lol
Having said that it would be nice to see what's on the magnet
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Replace the filter if u already in there :y
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Replace the filter if u already in there :y
Filters can be cleaned, if looking to save,money.
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Replace the filter if u already in there :y
Filters can be cleaned, if looking to save,money.
Yes, but is it worth it in the end? It's not so expencive or is it in UK?
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Having just had mine out of the car I was amazed how much ATF remains in the box even with Both sumps off. After I drained TC etc I would say you change 2/3 of the ATF with the box on the car. Not suggesting it's worth removing the box but just for interest.
Steve
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Having just had mine out of the car I was amazed how much ATF remains in the box even with Both sumps off. After I drained TC etc I would say you change 2/3 of the ATF with the box on the car. Not suggesting it's worth removing the box but just for interest.
Steve
That's why you blow the cooler out. Refill takes 8ltrs.
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Having just had mine out of the car I was amazed how much ATF remains in the box even with Both sumps off. After I drained TC etc I would say you change 2/3 of the ATF with the box on the car. Not suggesting it's worth removing the box but just for interest.
Steve
That's why you blow the cooler out. Refill takes 8ltrs.
I don't think that will help with the fluid left in the box itself? Or you saying leave one side of cooler pipes connected?
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Replace the filter if u already in there :y
Filters can be cleaned, if looking to save,money.
Yes, but is it worth it in the end? It's not so expencive or is it in UK?
Filter is about £70 if you buy from Vauxhall, and is hard to find elsewhere. Which makes cleaning it worthwhile.
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It's in the guide, but worth wiping off all the particles of metal stuck to the magnet, too. If nothing else but to see how much buildup has occurred upon the next fluid change. :)
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Having just had mine out of the car I was amazed how much ATF remains in the box even with Both sumps off. After I drained TC etc I would say you change 2/3 of the ATF with the box on the car. Not suggesting it's worth removing the box but just for interest.
Steve
That's why you blow the cooler out. Refill takes 8ltrs.
I don't think that will help with the fluid left in the box itself? Or you saying leave one side of cooler pipes connected?
Correct. Think it says that in the very helpful maintenance section, there might even be a how-to.
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Filters are about £40 from JPAT, give'em a ring for OOF discount. :y
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Bear, don't toss around sucking oil out, drop the sumps (both). The large one has a magnet in that attracts all the metal filings from the bands etc, and that will need cleaning (it'll be like a grey sludge). The front sump needs dropping to check for bits of plastic. If there, the thrust washer has disintegrated, and will need gearbox removing to replace.
Personally I'd use a better quality ATF than carlube and Comma. But they meet the minimum standard.
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Bear, don't toss around sucking oil out, drop the sumps (both). The large one has a magnet in that attracts all the metal filings from the bands etc, and that will need cleaning (it'll be like a grey sludge). The front sump needs dropping to check for bits of plastic. If there, the thrust washer has disintegrated, and will need gearbox removing to replace.
Personally I'd use a better quality ATF than carlube and Comma. But they meet the minimum standard.
I know your views on castrol TB. However I recently picked up 12 bottles of castrol dex3 at B&Q for 99p a bottle. Guess what's going in my next omega project! :y
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Bear, don't toss around sucking oil out, drop the sumps (both). The large one has a magnet in that attracts all the metal filings from the bands etc, and that will need cleaning (it'll be like a grey sludge). The front sump needs dropping to check for bits of plastic. If there, the thrust washer has disintegrated, and will need gearbox removing to replace.
Personally I'd use a better quality ATF than carlube and Comma. But they meet the minimum standard.
I know your views on castrol TB. However I recently picked up 12 bottles of castrol dex3 at B&Q for 99p a bottle. Guess what's going in my next omega project! :y
As long as its not going in mine, I care not :P
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"castrol dex3 at B&Q"..................Mmmmm no thanks.
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"castrol dex3 at B&Q"..................Mmmmm no thanks.
What's the issue? Dex3 is the required spec for the omega. And there are much, much cheaper, nastier brands than castrol.
And what's the relevance of the outlet selling said oil?
Your post is pretty pointless unless you can back up your argument with something? :) :y
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Just to add.. Having re read my post it sounds a little rude... Not intentional, so my apologies. (Posting after a night on the Guinness is never wise)
I am just curious as to what you are basing your comments on. Is castrol ATF *really* that bad? :y
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Just to add.. Having re read my post it sounds a little rude... Not intentional, so my apologies. (Posting after a night on the Guinness is never wise)
I am just curious as to what you are basing your comments on. Is castrol ATF *really* that bad? :y
No of course its not James, its made to DexIII specification, and will do the job OK. People just knock products on here without any scientific reasoning, fraid its the nature of this forum.
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If it produces as much mayonnaise as their engine oil... ::)
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"castrol dex3 at B&Q"..................Mmmmm no thanks.
What's the issue? Dex3 is the required spec for the omega. And there are much, much cheaper, nastier brands than castrol.
And what's the relevance of the outlet selling said oil?
Your post is pretty pointless unless you can back up your argument with something? :) :y
I got every bottle of the 99p Castrol on their shelves, too! :) Dark brown 19 yr old oil with 180k vs brand new cherry red Castrol I was happy to go with it.
How's that old timing kit of mine James? I never heard how you go on, sir; didn't fail after 5 mins and blow your engine up, did it? :o ::)
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It very much helped my process of elimination, thank you v much :y
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Not a problem, glad to be of service :y
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If it produces as much mayonnaise as their engine oil... ::)
We're talking about atf not engine oil - however I agree GM engine oils seem best in these V6s
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"castrol dex3 at B&Q"..................Mmmmm no thanks.
What's the issue? Dex3 is the required spec for the omega. And there are much, much cheaper, nastier brands than castrol.
And what's the relevance of the outlet selling said oil?
Your post is pretty pointless unless you can back up your argument with something? :) :y
I got every bottle of the 99p Castrol on their shelves, too! :) Dark brown 19 yr old oil with 180k vs brand new cherry red Castrol I was happy to go with it.
How's that old timing kit of mine James? I never heard how you go on, sir; didn't fail after 5 mins and blow your engine up, did it? :o ::)
What's the issue?
Dex3 isn't the issue and I know it's the required spec for the omega, it's the thought of buying it from B&Q. Anyone in the know may be reluctant to buy anything of importance from there. They sell a lot of the well known brand names we all know but there is a difference.
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I got every bottle of the 99p Castrol on their shelves, too! :) Dark brown 19 yr old oil with 180k vs brand new cherry red Castrol I was happy to go with it.
If it was free it wouldn't go anywhere near a gearbox of mine.
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"baggers", I'm guessing that you can't be specific, but are you implying that even though some products from B&Q may have Brand labels on them, they may not be of full quality?
You can use that TV quotation - "You may well think that, but I couldn't possibly comment" if you wanted to hide behind something!
Ron.
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Yes, got to be careful what you say.
Trust me, it's good advice but we make our own decisions at the end of the day.
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Yes, got to be careful what you say.
Trust me, it's good advice but we make our own decisions at the end of the day.
ork
even when they might be wrong, :o
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Regarding the ATF change....
I can officially say that I hold my bear paws up and admit you guys were right :y
we been quiet at the garage so got my sucker / cuprinol sprayer out :o. only managed to siphon 2.5l out. so yeah, you guys are right. dropping the sumps going to be the way forward :y
however, new fluid is new fluid and I got a chance to see the old stuff..... you can tell its used but it definitely wasn't bad at all in terms of colour. :y
shifting gear lever is seamless now where as occasionally it was hard before. shifting during driving seems the same (but they were seamless before anyway) :y
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Regarding the ATF change....
I can officially say that I hold my bear paws up and admit you guys were right :y
we been quiet at the garage so got my sucker / cuprinol sprayer out :o. only managed to siphon 2.5L out. so yeah, you guys are right. dropping the sumps going to be the way forward :y
however, new fluid is new fluid and I got a chance to see the old stuff..... you can tell its used but it definitely wasn't bad at all in terms of colour. :y
shifting gear lever is seamless now where as occasionally it was hard before. shifting during driving seems the same (but they were seamless before anyway) :y
So still 5.5L old oil left in there, half a job bear.
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Just to add.. Having re read my post it sounds a little rude... Not intentional, so my apologies. (Posting after a night on the Guinness is never wise)
I am just curious as to what you are basing your comments on. Is castrol ATF *really* that bad? :y
Only based my comments on their engine oils, and work on the principle that the rest of their products must be similar quality.
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Regarding the ATF change....
I can officially say that I hold my bear paws up and admit you guys were right :y
we been quiet at the garage so got my sucker / cuprinol sprayer out :o. only managed to siphon 2.5L out. so yeah, you guys are right. dropping the sumps going to be the way forward :y
however, new fluid is new fluid and I got a chance to see the old stuff..... you can tell its used but it definitely wasn't bad at all in terms of colour. :y
shifting gear lever is seamless now where as occasionally it was hard before. shifting during driving seems the same (but they were seamless before anyway) :y
So still 5.5L old oil left in there, half a job bear.
Which is why I said dropping the sumps are the way forward :y
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If you're feeling brave, torque converter probably has a drain plug too :D