Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Toledodude1973 on 21 December 2015, 16:45:23
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I plan to change discs and pads front and rear on my F/L 2.6 when i can muster the energy! Keith ABS has kindly supplied discs/pads for me , are there any other bits worth getting before hand to make job of it? thanks for help
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Handbrake shoes if you're doing the rear. They might be OK, but they might be like mine and not survive removal of the disc. Only adds about £20.
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Ahh ok Nick,can discs be a cow to remove on rears?
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Ahh ok Nick,can discs be a cow to remove on rears?
Not if you back the H/brake adjusters off. But the shoes are probably original, and the linings are very thin. Mine fell apart, which meant another trip to the factors. You'll never need to replace them again.
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Sounds like good advice thankyou Nick :y
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As Nick says, fully back off the adjusters, then the discs should come off, though there is often a lip of rust built up where the shoes have not rubbed, which hinders removal. I have found Vx genuine shoes expensive, so bought pattern, but suspect they are not so grabby as original. Have other members found this?
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I'd also recommend all installation, securing parts to change including handbrake thightening thingi between shoes at the top. Also clean handbrake lever? between shoes at the bottom where the cable attaches.
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Looked at handbrake shoe replacement guide, is it difficult or manageable with patience?
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As Nick says, fully back off the adjusters, then the discs should come off, though there is often a lip of rust built up where the shoes have not rubbed, which hinders removal. I have found Vx genuine shoes expensive, so bought pattern, but suspect they are not so grabby as original. Have other members found this?
Not degreasing the drum adequately :-\
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Looked at handbrake shoe replacement guide, is it difficult or manageable with patience?
Make the tool for springs or it'll be knuckelbraker and needs balls nerves of steel :)
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Looked at handbrake shoe replacement guide, is it difficult or manageable with patience?
Very much that one :y
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As Nick says, fully back off the adjusters, then the discs should come off, though there is often a lip of rust built up where the shoes have not rubbed, which hinders removal. I have found Vx genuine shoes expensive, so bought pattern, but suspect they are not so grabby as original. Have other members found this?
Not degreasing the drum adequately :-\
Could be. I use petrol. What do you recommend? Brake cleaner aerosol?
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Would carb cleaner on contact surfaces be suitable?
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Would carb cleaner on contact surfaces be suitable?
Brake cleaner, but carb cleaner should also do the trick.
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Looked at handbrake shoe replacement guide, is it difficult or manageable with patience?
Make the tool for springs or it'll be knuckelbraker and needs balls nerves of steel :)
It's hardly difficult with a decent pair of needle-nosed pliers, but using a small hook isn't as fiddly.
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Looked at handbrake shoe replacement guide, is it difficult or manageable with patience?
Make the tool for springs or it'll be knuckelbraker and needs balls nerves of steel :)
It's hardly difficult with a decent pair of needle-nosed pliers, but using a small hook isn't as fiddly.
...if you've done it before. I remember my first time ::) and OP has not done it before.
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I have found replacement handbrake shoes take a bit longer to bed in than the pads, and the handbrake isn't as efficient as you would expect until bedded in. I presume this is because the shoes only contact the inside of the drum when the handbrake is applied, whereas the pads contact the discs every time the brakes are applied and bed in quicker. With new shoes, I have driven slowly on a quiet piece of road gently applying the handbrake which helps to bed the shoes to get a reasonable handbrake from the off.
Make sure the shoes are adjusted equally or the handbrake will pull unevenly. I would also check the return springs on the backplate as they corrode and become weak. The locating hole in the backplate can also corrode.
You will have to unfasten the caliper to get the disc off; just be careful with the metal brake pipe when unclipping it from the swinging arm, and support the caliper so that the pipe isn't under tension whilst doing the job.
Don't forget that if your rear discs are vented, the retaining pins are longer than on solid discs, and not every motor factors will supply the correct ones.
It's not a difficult job - but the right tools always help!
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When doing the front pads, don't forget it's worth buying a new pad wear sensor - they can be carefully removed from the old pad if your pad warning light is not on, and refitted to the new pad but equally can quite easily break, and then your job will be on hold until you get one!
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As Nick says, fully back off the adjusters, then the discs should come off, though there is often a lip of rust built up where the shoes have not rubbed, which hinders removal. I have found Vx genuine shoes expensive, so bought pattern, but suspect they are not so grabby as original. Have other members found this?
Not degreasing the drum adequately :-\
Could be. I use petrol. What do you recommend? Brake cleaner aerosol?
Brake cleaner, carb cleaner or even washing up liquid, but certainly NOT an oil derived substance ;)