Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: calibrated on 13 January 2016, 21:21:12
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What is natural position of multiram valve after 4000 rpm? Should it remain in position for example when engine is off or should it operate in direction of coilpack? (opening or closing inlet)
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Open, there both open at full revs (shortest velocity).
Edit, both open at more than 4100.
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Thank you
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http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90513.0
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But note that valve 2 (in the plenum) must be open at idle on early engines with idle control valves on 2,4,6 side, but should close between idle and 3400rpm to give more torque. I have known them stuck open, so engine ran, with poor low rev torque.
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Yep, I think it's open on all cars at idle to balance the airflow across the banks. It closes once the engine is under load, and opens again at 4100 RPM.
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Not wishing to bump but...
I wanted to double check these were working prior to me doing my proper 0-60 test :D I can't get either of them to move :o though the car doesn't seem down on power particularly.
So. just so I've got this right...... whilst looking at the rear multiram (plenum) it should move when throttle on...... then at 4100k rpm the front one in the trumpets should move. correct?
if so am I right that it has to be stuck open/closed valves? as I believe any electrical issue will put the EML on (something I found when I forgot to plug it in ::))
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ps, just to add I do have hissing when vac lines pulled from vac tanks...so I knowthey are good :)
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Anyone?
Just to add I got the front one to move. But the rear plenum one is definitely not moving.
I have a spare plenum. Is it worth swapping the valve. Or maybe sticking the spare plenum on. I don't believe it can be electrical as it would throw a code. Any advice welcome.
Ps got the front one to move. Previously I must not have revved it hard enough
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Anyone?
Just to add I got the front one to move. But the rear plenum one is definitely not moving.
I have a spare plenum. Is it worth swapping the valve. Or maybe sticking the spare plenum on. I don't believe it can be electrical as it would throw a code. Any advice welcome.
Ps got the front one to move. Previously I must not have revved it hard enough
Swapping the plenums is as quick and easy as swapping the solenoid and valve :y
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Anyone?
Just to add I got the front one to move. But the rear plenum one is definitely not moving.
I have a spare plenum. Is it worth swapping the valve. Or maybe sticking the spare plenum on. I don't believe it can be electrical as it would throw a code. Any advice welcome.
Ps got the front one to move. Previously I must not have revved it hard enough
Swapping the plenums is as quick and easy as swapping the solenoid and valve :y
Cheers mate. Got to take plenum off anyway as I got some breathers to clean too 👍
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Is the rear multram from a 3l plenum fittable to the 2.5l plenum? It's the only one I have spare. Gutted as I thought I had the full plenum. Grrr
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Is the rear multram from a 3l plenum fittable to the 2.5l plenum? It's the only one I have spare. Gutted as I thought I had the full plenum. Grrr
All the multiram items are the same :y
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Is the rear multram from a 3l plenum fittable to the 2.5l plenum? It's the only one I have spare. Gutted as I thought I had the full plenum. Grrr
All the multiram items are the same :y
Great news. Thanks Taxi :y
With the car off I moved the plunger and it seems to move with ease. There was a slight air escaping / sucking type noise from the diaphragm looking thing. Possible air leak causing it not to move I wonder :-\
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I would be interested to hear if you get to the bottom of your issue, as I am convinced my rear multiram is the same. Front multiram Definitely moves when blip above 4k rmp but rear not move at all. Moves freely enough when press plunger and no noticeable air escaping and connector to solenoid is in :-\
Keep posted of your progress :y
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Will do mate :)
I'll be honest it's going to beat least a week. snowed under at the garage and going for weekend away this weekend :) but will keep y'aaall posted :) :y :y :y
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:y Cheers :y
I was going to give pipes and connectors a check on mine, and I thought the ram sat in different place when engine turned off to when engine on idle ?
Hopefully we can both get sorted.
Fingers crossed its something simple ;)
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Not sure if either of you got this sorted but I have the same problem on one of my 2.5's.
Both move when tested with diagnostics connected, front moves when throttle blipped.
Rear never moves - not when changing form idle to higher revs or with high RPM.
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Same 'ere
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Hi guys. Nope, didn't sort it. Even with spare ram valve. As there's no eml on I assume it's a new valve needed.
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Suspect you're all being too soft with it.
If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)
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Suspect you're all being too soft with it.
If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)
And that's 'dangle berries', as if a non-Omega ECU, diag tool won't move it ;D. What a pleb that TheBoy is.
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To test the rear one you need to blip the throttle hard - whack it all the way open quickly.
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To test the rear one you need to blip the throttle hard - whack it all the way open quickly.
Same here, rear one seems not to move, even when blipped hard with the front ones coming on !!!
New rear solenoid ? Plug is in it :(
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I assure you I've given it 'death' and still no movement.
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Checking out Mark's tech manual he posted, the rear should move over 4100rpm... as, I'm sure, with Mr The Bear's I ran mine all the way up to the red line, and still nothing.
What I have observed, is that the servo/solenoid thingygummy appears to be identical for the front and rear. Bit of a faff, but surely swapping the front and rear ones round will confirm whether both are working, or that the issue lies somewhere else?
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The rear valve will also move when the engine starts. I watched them after I replaced the vac tanks, PO broke the nipples and tried to glue them back on so non of it was working
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Suspect you're all being too soft with it.
If it moves with diag tool, its working (unless someone has put in a non-Omega ECU)
I have taken it to the red line, or is it also to do with the speed to wide open?
On my 2.5 (non-dbw) my understanding is that it should move between idle and any revs at all also?
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I needs to be idle to redline as fast as possible, due to the no-load status of the engine when testing. Its a knack
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Currently parked up in the Sikh Temple's car park...might save redlining her until I'm home in the interests of inter-community relations :D
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I needs to be idle to redline as fast as possible, due to the no-load status of the engine when testing. Its a knack
Should it not move at any time the revs move away from idle also?