Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Ulap31 on 04 February 2016, 20:27:45
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Dear all,
I have an omega 3.2 auto.
It's still not running right.
Problems are runs slightly rough on idle and smells like it's over fuelling when cold.
When it's warm and on a run it starts pinking under load, also cooling fans come on at about 90 but once temperature down to 85 they're not switching of.
So far I've put a new contitech timing kit, new knock sensors new maf new dis packs, new thermostat, water pump plus moved exhaust sensor on drivers side
Fault codes that I'm getting via pedal trick are
0300,0304,0303,0325,0330,0300,0304
As you can see it throws some codes up twice
I have posted on this before but not really used the car for awhile
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Sort the misfires out first, both banks. ;) :y
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Ok been trying to get misfires sorted but not getting anywhere.
Any ideas as I'm losing patience with it.
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First thing to check is for oil / water in the spark plug wells. :y
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Well you have codes showing "knock sensor" and you say you have pinking.
ECU temp sensor working ok?
EGR valve, causing rough idle & raised cylinder temps (pinking).
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Thanks for replies
Now I'm confused as I didn't think there was an egr valve on these so would be grateful of some insight into where that is.
Also where is the ecu temperature sensor.
When I replaced dis modules did notice small amount of rusting to right side bank but have since done the skittle seal as mentioned on the forum
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Deffo no EGR so ignore that ;)
It's a bodge, but unplug the ecu, both plugs, wait an hour... Use the time to check all the plugs around the engine, paying attention to the coil packs, both knock eensors and the cam sensor. Have a cup of tea...
Then reconnect the ecu. Do pedal trick and note the numbers. Then take the car for a good run, twenty miles should do it. Then redo pedal trick and report back with the two results :y
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Ecu temp sensor is on the coolant bridge, but generally reliable... Needs decent code reader to confirm ecu temp is broadly the same as the gauge.
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Will try that at some point tomorrow.
Didn't want to disconnect ecu before as I was told it would need to be taken to vx to be reprogrammed,
Thanks for the advice will post again tomorrow
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Will try that at some point tomorrow.
Didn't want to disconnect ecu before as I was told it would need to be taken to vx to be reprogrammed,
Thanks for the advice will post again tomorrow
If it does kill it I have a spare... ;D
Joking aside, it will be fine... :y Just needs a decent run after as it resets all the fuel trims etc to a default setting and it takes a few miles of mixed driving to adapt to the actual sensor readings, hence the before and after pedal tricks ;)
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Right done pedal code and it was what I said in original post so I disconnected ecu for an hour. Checked coil packs they look fine checked plug wells looks like it had a problem in the past, rust residue on top of the alloy part near 2 of the plugs.
This was on the passenger side there's no water signs now though.
Checked the breather pipes the look nice and clean
Checked wiring no nicks or rusted connectors.
Reconnected ecu took it for a long run and it ran like its missing on a couple of cylinders.
Now the faults are none just keeps flashing with no gaps
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Have you checked/changed the plugs?
Flashing with no gaps suggests no codes present, which suggests that the loom and coil packs are indeed sound...
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What plugs are fitted? Please don't say Champion. :-\
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Spark plugs fitted are the Vauxhall originals which was one of the first things I changed when the problems started
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Deffo no EGR so ignore that ;)
Never worked on a 3.2, I know now :)
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I'd start by pulling the plugs out and see what they tell you. Grey coating is normal, black is mixture too rich (white too lean) and wet with fuel means no spark.
If it's not running on all 6 then the possibilities are:
One or more blocked/seized/non-functioning injectors (could be as simple as a corroded electrical connector)
Faulty coil pack, although I believe a 3.2 would throw a fault code for this (3.0 & 2.5 don't and the ECU is oblivious)
Faulty spark plug which is not unheard of even in new plugs
Compression issue cause by piston problem or valve train issue, only a compression test can rule this out - is it making any strange noises?
Other electrical/electronic issue, this isn't a common symptom of crank sensor failure but I wouldn't dismiss it
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Right I've been working on this all day. So I now have code 0300,0304. Removed plugs yesterday swapped them all around and I'm still getting same codes.
Decided to check timing as I've got the Sykes timing kit.
Tdc locked in place but the timing marks on covers not lining up with camshaft sprockets to allow the locking pins to be installed.
Bit of jiggling around and they're in. Removed belt checked it over although it's only done 3000 miles and then worked it back round and noticed slack in between 1&2 and on 3&4.
tightened tensioners turned by hand a few times,locked tdc in place and yet again can't get locking pins in but the marks on covers and sprockets line up perfectly.
So have I been supplied the right belt or are the sprockets fitted wrong and would this cause my problems
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Sprockets don't line up with the nothches...
0300 is general misfire... First sign of a hiccup
0304 is a cylinder specific misfire to cylinder 4
You need to replace the coil pack if the plugs are new/serviceable.
You have confused yourself with the cambelt... It has no electrical input and therefore won't produce a code... You need to use the cam guage supplied with the kit to check the belt timing.
If you don't have this... Don't do ANYTHING else until you have a complete locking kit...
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No panic I have a complete locking kit was trying to rule it out of the equation. Was a little worried I'd been given the wrong belt but as you say wouldn't cause a fault code though.
Think I'll try a new coil pack from vx but can't do that for couple of weeks so it'll have to wait for the moment.
Think I need a member with tech 2 who's local and knows what to look at with diagnostics.
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Pedal trick is pretty reliable with exception of cranksensor and gearbox code's
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Right I've been working on this all day. So I now have code 0300,0304. Removed plugs yesterday swapped them all around and I'm still getting same codes.
Decided to check timing as I've got the Sykes timing kit.
Tdc locked in place but the timing marks on covers not lining up with camshaft sprockets to allow the locking pins to be installed.
Bit of jiggling around and they're in. Removed belt checked it over although it's only done 3000 miles and then worked it back round and noticed slack in between 1&2 and on 3&4.
tightened tensioners turned by hand a few times,locked tdc in place and yet again can't get locking pins in but the marks on covers and sprockets line up perfectly.
So have I been supplied the right belt or are the sprockets fitted wrong and would this cause my problems
Back plate notches are purely a guide, not a set point. :y Just thinking out loud here so ignore me if I've got it wrong but which way are you feeding the cambelt?
If you have any slack between cam 4 and the crank on initial set-up, when you lock the tool on to the water pump after rotation by hand there will still be a small amount of clockwise rotation of the cams required to get the cam locks in. This is not how it should be so I'm just checking that this is not the case, as the slack would cause this. The crank would pull out the slack but the movement of the cams would be slightly delayed, if that makes sense, hence the cam locks not going straight in. Ignore me if I've got the wrong end of the stick. :y
As said, 0304 would point at the 2,4,6 coil pack but I note that you say you have changed them. Were they new or known good coil packs? :-\
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Regarding the locking pins. I confused myself with them not going in....I was trying to put them in the wrong way around ;D
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Ok turned engine by hand about 20 odd times and your right I was doing it Arse about face so please ignore the part about timing etc.
Right the coil packs I used were from euro car parts which I think could be one of the problems.
I changed both originals when this problem started as right bank coil pack was knackered from skuttle leaking water onto it. Which I've now sealed up.
So kept getting misfire codes on both banks!!!!! Moved sensors behind cats as per guide new genuine maf new knock sensors new genuine vx plugs new timing belt and tensioners.
Still getting the misfire codes.
So I've put the original coil pack back on left hand bank and hey presto not getting misfire on left hand bank, why then are these coil packs not working as I paid about £80 a side if they cause problems how can they sell them
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I had something very similar, codes 300 and 304, but found water in zyl No. 6 well, bought "original" BOSCH 2-4-6 coil back, all problems gone. Water leaking prevented first.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=133890.0
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Right new Bosch coil packs, moved the sensors behind main cat and hey presto running rough and 2 codes that are
0161
And 0161
Really had enough that's nearly a year now without a car that should be a straight forward to get fixed
Any body near Welwyn garden city who has the tech 2 and knows what their looking for would be appreciated.
Mrs has said f****** thing just sell it
See previous post as have changed lots of bits and still can't get it running right
Cheers
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0161 is Bank 2 O2 sensor 2 heater circuit. Wouldn't cause rough running but might be worth checking the wiring to that sensor.
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I post to express sympathy and bafflement at your car's behaviour, defying the best advice available. I have run a 3.2 for 10 years. In that time I have had misfires caused by water in no. 6, and crank sensor failure. Earlier Omegas were more prone to misfiring due to plug, plug leads and coil pack problems.
You mention smell of overfuelling. Do you mean smell of fuel?, Have you checked for smell of fuel leak when engine running? Could be around fuel filter or corrosion of pump outlet pipe.
I imagine your car is an automatic. On my manual full throttle at 20mph in 4th gear is when car is most likely to misfire, or pink, though I have never known mine pink. If mine did pink I would suspect a knock sensor disconnected or faulty. I shouldn't mind the fans cutting in and out so long as car does not overheat.
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Two suggestions; if not already changed, change crank sensor; check Vx plugs are the right plugs - wrong heat grade can cause pre-ignition.
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Not a million miles away here in Buckinghamshire, have diag kit and live data capabilities
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Yep, a full set of live data from the engine idling once fully warmed up would be a good start. :y
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Stop randomly changing parts. It needs live data - initially LTFT for both banks, and MAF reading at idle.
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I haven't read the entire thread... Just your first post. You don't say whether you owned it previously or whether you've ever had it running right previously?
Just wondering if you aquired it with the problem? And thus it could be damaged engine internals (possibly due to snapped cambelt) that someone has unscrupulously tried to conceal?
(and yes; I have experienced this exact scenario recently myself) >:( ::)
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I haven't read the entire thread... Just your first post. You don't say whether you owned it previously or whether you've ever had it running right previously?
Just wondering if you aquired it with the problem? And thus it could be damaged engine internals (possibly due to snapped cambelt) that someone has unscrupulously tried to conceal?
(and yes; I have experienced this exact scenario recently myself) >:( ::)
Have a go at reading the thread, then. It isn't a 400 page epic. :o
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Last thing to replace is the loom, but no recent fault code updates...
Fresh loom was the only thing that cured mine having exhausted all the other possibilities. Only three things cause a misfire code... Contaminated plugs, contaminated coil packs, bollaxed loom.
Simples.
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Last thing to replace is the loom, but no recent fault code updates...
Fresh loom was the only thing that cured mine having exhausted all the other possibilities. Only three things cause a misfire code... Contaminated plugs, contaminated coil packs, bollaxed loom.
Simples.
Or low / no compression - admittedly more rare and as a result of a belt slip causing valve trouble :y
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Id still like to get my hands on this one for a look :y
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To every one car running sweet when I bought it. Hit a nasty speed bump small clonk from underneath and problems since.
To James v6cdx tried messaging you but maybe I'm not doing it right, can we swap details etc as would like someone other than vx dealers to look at it.
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Have had a thought. On bank 1 I've noticed the exhaust is blowing, up near the engine. Checked down pipe which is good and had a new gasket to manifold.
Could the speed hump I hit have cracked the manifold as the exhausts & the car are low and if so is the ecu adjusting the fuelling etc to bank 2 to compensate for the cracked manifold.
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Is the suspension lowered? How long had you owned he car before you hit the speed bump? Is there any sign of damage below the car from the impact with the speed bump?
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An air leak into the manifold could well upset the lambda sensor reading and cause that bank's fuelling to be out. A look at the live data (fuel trims for each bank for a start) would show if this is the case.