Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: VXL V6 on 16 February 2016, 19:58:58
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Evening!
Alternator has died (well rectifier I think as it's overcharging) on the new 3.2, I'll be refurbishing it at some point but to get the car useable again is the alternator off a 2.6 Elite the same as the one on a 3.2 Elite.... Not had chance to check the units part no's etc yet hence the question!
One on the 2.6 was a new / factory refurbished unit from VX about 18 months ago so worth fitting if the same.
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Evening!
Alternator has died (well rectifier I think as it's overcharging) on the new 3.2, I'll be refurbishing it at some point but to get the car useable again is the alternator off a 2.6 Elite the same as the one on a 3.2 Elite.... Not had chance to check the units part no's etc yet hence the question!
One on the 2.6 was a new / factory refurbished unit from VX about 18 months ago so worth fitting if the same.
Only the pulley might be different... even dti one bolts straight on :y
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Evening!
Alternator has died (well rectifier I think as it's overcharging) on the new 3.2, I'll be refurbishing it at some point but to get the car useable again is the alternator off a 2.6 Elite the same as the one on a 3.2 Elite.... Not had chance to check the units part no's etc yet hence the question!
One on the 2.6 was a new / factory refurbished unit from VX about 18 months ago so worth fitting if the same.
Only the pulley might be different... even dti one bolts straight on :y
I reckon the pulley will be identical given that 2.6 and 3.2 use the same auxbelt and all the other aux components are the same.
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Asked answered then...
Only question remaining is why haven't you fitted it yet ;D
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That would involve getting my arse down the barn and I can smell Hunters Chicken in the oven which is a far more appealing option. :y
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Yep, should be the same part. Can't remember if they were different current rating but it probably won't matter if they are.
If it's just the regulator they are easy to refurb. Might be worth replacing the bearings too if the 2.6 one gives you some breathing space before refitting:
1x6303 2RS C3
1x6003 2RS C3
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PNs:
12 9201040 62 04 108 ALTERNATOR, ASSY., 12V.140AMP (IDENT XJ) (EXCHANGE PART 93175818 OPEL, R1530055 VAUXHALL) (PRODUCTION NO. 24436554) 1
14 9200955 62 04 101 ALTERNATOR, ASSY., 12V.120AMP (IDENT XA) (BOSCH 0124515049) (EXCHANGE PART 93175819 OPEL, R1530056 VAUXHALL) (PRODUCTION NO. 24414255)
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9201040 is the 140 Amp which I think was only fitted to plod spec cars, I think (will have a look on Friday as I should have some daylight hours to look at both of them) retail spec cars had 9200955 120 Amp alternators.
Worst case scenario being that the 3.2 does indeed have a 140A model and the 2.6 donor is a 120A but as Kevin suggested, it would at least buy me some time.
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Just looked at my old one and it's the XA 120A model. :y
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Just looked at my old one and it's the XA 120A model. :y
:y
Got Friday off so i'll swap the one off the 2.6 onto it, refurbish the faulty one and keep it in stock!!!
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Made a start tonight in the failing light ::) taking the old one off, got as far as the top bolt but struggling to get to it as per quite a few threads I've been reading on here!
The top mounting has the nut on the front so means I just have to get a spanner on the torx to hold it still, looked at a few pics and read a few threads on here so I think I can see how to go about it in the morning :y
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Think the old Alternator fried the battery as well - showing around 3V on the multimeter.... Got a good spare from the 2.6 here which gets a regular charge with the Ctek so will fit that. :y
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Removed the one off the 2.6 in about 15 Mins (Airbox and bagpipes already out and coolant recirc pump and pipes removed previously to make room for LPG vapouriser), however, still took me about three times that to get the top mount out of the faulty one. I could actually see the Torx head on the 2.6 but not at all on this car - eventually sussed that the manifold lower heat shield had been bent up so copied that idea. :-[
All seems good, changed the battery over, kept the multimeter attached and kept an eye on the charge rate, cleared a few 'not present' voltage out of range type codes off various ECU's with the code reader.
Noticed that the negative clamp isn't the tightest on the battery terminal - had to tap it down a little to get it to bite - not sure if the previous batteries terminals may have been a mm or so wider and have spread the clamps.