Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Omena on 18 February 2016, 21:04:35
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I have now normal 800rpm and car works fine but clutch feeling is little bit bad. I use 95oct gasoline and it gives huhe differense between 98.
When choke is on and about 1000rpm its nice to use but 800 is too low because it lowers when i lift clutch.
Clutch is pretty new.
"My Naff Code Reader"/vauxcom didnt allowed change that speed when i tried.
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Which engine do you have?
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Guessing at 800RPM it's a 2.2. That is the correct idle speed.
If a V6 then it's idling too fast ;)
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My Desmond and my old 2.0l pfl both tick(ed) over @ 600 rpm :o
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Guessing at 800RPM it's a 2.2. That is the correct idle speed.
If a V6 then it's idling too fast ;)
way way too fast ;)
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i see your engine is a 2.2.
migs are heavy cars - swmbo wouldn't drive my old manual 2.5 because she kept stalling it, you have to rev a bit when starting off. i imagine even more important on a 2.2.
most people here either have autos or starting off has become second nature so they no longer notice it.
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Yes its 2.2 petrol.
Difficult to post here because of car color/fruit question....
Is tech2 only way modife idle? Revving is hard because car fights easily then and takeoffs became rough.
Problem is only with 95oct fuel but i cant use 98 like i said.
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The problem isn't the idle speed, that is as it should be. It's either a clutch fault, a different fault or the driver/gearbox interface.
Oh... And the questions that you refer to will stop very soon
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i see your engine is a 2.2.
migs are heavy cars - swmbo wouldn't drive my old manual 2.5 because she kept stalling it, you have to rev a bit when starting off. i imagine even more important on a 2.2.
most people here either have autos or starting off has become second nature so they no longer notice it.
Does the 2.2 have an idle control valve (IAC) or is it drive by wire (DBW).
When I had a manual 2.5 V6 I got really fed up with how the IAC would interfere when I was trying to pull away smoothly by cutting the revs just as was feeding the clutch in (causing it to stall). Pull away smartly and it never stalled.
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i see your engine is a 2.2.
migs are heavy cars - swmbo wouldn't drive my old manual 2.5 because she kept stalling it, you have to rev a bit when starting off. i imagine even more important on a 2.2.
most people here either have autos or starting off has become second nature so they no longer notice it.
Does the 2.2 have an idle control valve (IAC) or is it drive by wire (DBW).
When I had a manual 2.5 V6 I got really fed up with how the IAC would interfere when I was trying to pull away smoothly by cutting the revs just as was feeding the clutch in (causing it to stall). Pull away smartly and it never stalled.
2.2 is DBW ;)
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Thought the early ones were cabled :-\
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My buddy has same problem too and he has 100% good condition. It wont stall and it will go smooth if i release clutch by time.
Faster release gives harsh feelings but only 95oct no 98. Ive read that engine likes 98 and lower torque is way different with it. And i regonize same when i drived 98.
And with choke 1000rpm it goes very nice with 95. I just need raise it there someway.
My friends omega does same than yours i think: 800rpm and when you left with only clutch, idle drops in 500-600rpm and raises again if you lift pedal with care.
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Most unleaded in the UK is 95 RON and the 2.2 is fine. I say again...
The problem isn't the idle speed, that is as it should be. It's either a clutch fault, a different fault or the driver/gearbox interface.
Thought the early ones were cabled :-\
Nope... Came in at the same time as the 2.6/3.2. All are DBW :y
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What are the differences between X22SE and Y22SE then :-\
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What are the differences between X22SE and Y22SE then :-\
One wasn't fitted to the Omega AFAIK ;) Isn't one the chain driven lump in the Vectra?
Never encountered a cable 2.2 in an Omega. I could be wrong... We all know there are oddities in the range
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Those engines have very minor changes. Pretty same engines with belt.
Z22 series are vectra etc chain models.
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What are the differences between X22SE and Y22SE then :-\
Pre 2001 2.2 was fitted with the Y22XE, post 2001 had the X22XE.
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There you go... I'm not an expert on the 4 pots :-[ ::)
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What are the differences between X22SE and Y22SE then :-\
Pre 2001 2.2 was fitted with the Y22XE, post 2001 had the X22XE.
T'other way round. Y had tighter emissions.
All Omega 2.2's (petrol or diesel) are DBW.
The idle of about 850 is right for 2.2, and the engine is tuned to run on RON 91 IIRC. Using a higher octane fuel may make a small, but quite insignificant difference, as its not highly tuned.
OP - clean the throttle body, I suspect its a tad sticky as it opens from idle. Other than that, it sounds right. Raising RPM is nothing more than a bodge.
Oh, and you should be able to post normally now I believe :)
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T'other way round. Y had tighter emissions.
My mistake TB (typo error) :-[ :-[
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As TB said. Clean throttle bodies. And bloody proper full service. Clean everything :y
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If OP REALLY wants to raise the idle (which may also make it fail emissions testing, not sure) then it can only be done with a Tech 2.
On my MV6, I went the other way when I converted it to manual and dropped the idle right down (one click up from feeling a little rough), the fuel computer reads 0.2gal/h with a warm engine which makes me feel enviro-friendly when I'm stuck in stationary traffic :D
As has been said already - it's a heavy car, you need to give it some revs when pulling away. If you're getting judder/vibration when pulling away then that's a clutch or flywheel problem.