Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: TheBoy on 23 February 2016, 18:22:02
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Handbrake/Fluid level flickering, though mostly on.
Topped up brake fluid, no different. Unplugged sensor, no different. Thus guessing its the handbrake switch which looks to be under handbrake lever.
Is this accessible without removing centre console?
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Handbrake/Fluid level flickering, though mostly on.
Topped up brake fluid, no different. Unplugged sensor, no different. Thus guessing its the handbrake switch which looks to be under handbrake lever.
Is this accessible without removing centre console?
Battlebus or a "proper" car ? ?? ;) ;)
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Handbrake/Fluid level flickering, though mostly on.
Topped up brake fluid, no different. Unplugged sensor, no different. Thus guessing its the handbrake switch which looks to be under handbrake lever.
Is this accessible without removing centre console?
Battlebus or a "proper" car ? ?? ;) ;)
/Sarcky mode on
We're in the Omega Help section :P
/Sarcky mode off
;D
Its the 1998 MV6 Mr Entwood :)
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Which clearly counts as Proper car :)
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Reply #4 shows you the culprit. Other replies guide you to remove
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=115555.0
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Me thinks I have a hand brake off of an elite (think they are all the same :-\) in the parts shed :y
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If the box thing on the substandard Piffle car is removeable, then access should be ok...
Console trim isa ten minute job on the proper cars ;D
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If the box thing on the substandard Piffle car is removeable, then access should be ok...
Console trim isa ten minute job on the proper cars ;D
I have some wiring attached the console making removal more time consuming
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Reply #4 shows you the culprit. Other replies guide you to remove
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=115555.0
Cheers, so sufficient room if I just remove cubbyhole insert?
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What a tedious arse to get to handbrake switch.
What an even more tedious arse getting it back in.
Right, so with both brake fluid sensor unplugged and handbrake switch unplugged, light should not be on?
If I measure between the connector where wire clips on to handbrake switch and 0v, I get between 47 and 69 ohms. Does seem to vary, its either 47 or 69, no middle ground.
If I remove instruments, this goes open circuit. To me that would imply faulty instrument panel?
Fortunately, Mr Gixer turned up with a spare (albeit faulty, but different fault) instrument panel. Initially seemed OK (as did mine briefly), but after a short drive, same fault :(
Connector looks OK as far as I can tell.
I'm desperately running low on ideas now :(
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Anyone know how to remove the pin from the plug for the instrument panel... ...or do I have to cut the loom to diagnose further?
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What a tedious arse to get to handbrake switch.
What an even more tedious arse getting it back in.
Right, so with both brake fluid sensor unplugged and handbrake switch unplugged, light should not be on?
If I measure between the connector where wire clips on to handbrake switch and 0v, I get between 47 and 69 ohms. Does seem to vary, its either 47 or 69, no middle ground.
If I remove instruments, this goes open circuit. To me that would imply faulty instrument panel?
Fortunately, Mr Gixer turned up with a spare (albeit faulty, but different fault) instrument panel. Initially seemed OK (as did mine briefly), but after a short drive, same fault :(
Connector looks OK as far as I can tell.
I'm desperately running low on ideas now :(
I didn't think the brake warning circuit was anything more fancy than two switches (fed with 12v) connected to a lamp in the dash :-\
What is the resistance of the lamp in the dash? guessing about 50 ohms...........
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Ignoring the instrument ECU being able to control the light (hence it comes on when starting car), the diagrams imply that 0v is applied when either switch closes.
Thus, I would expect to get an open circuit reading across the switches... ...although now wondering if not removing battery might have confuddled the meter
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Anyone know how to remove the pin from the plug for the instrument panel... ...or do I have to cut the loom to diagnose further?
Is it the type where you can use a pin/straightened paper clip to depress the pin tang to allow removal of the pin from the rear of the block? :-\
They do a proper pin removal kit for such times as this but I've usually got away with more primitive methods. :y
Or, you could look on YouTube to see how it's done............. errr no, forget that one. ;D
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Is it the type where you can use a pin/straightened paper clip to depress the pin tang to allow removal of the pin from the rear of the block? :-\
I'm sure it probably is, but can't see the tab, made worse by the fact the loom to it is as tight as a nuns....
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The connector slides up to remove iirc, then tip it towards you and it might be clearer :y
Have you tested the brake fluid level sensor? Could be an break in the wiring from that :-\ which might explain thed resistance results hand brake on/off :-\
Presume you have wiring diagram for it...
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Ignoring the instrument ECU being able to control the light (hence it comes on when starting car), the diagrams imply that 0v is applied when either switch closes.
Thus, I would expect to get an open circuit reading across the switches... ...although now wondering if not removing battery might have confuddled the meter
I did wonder if the switches were on the pos or chassis side of the bulb...
I expect there will be several bulbs fed by a common feed in the instrument panel (including oil warning light) so your continuity test would find a circuit through one or more of those back to chassis/ground/0v.
Presumably the ignition on 'lamp test' feature can be ignored because a fault would bring all the tell-tale lamps on at once. :-\
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Presumably the ignition on 'lamp test' feature can be ignored because a fault would bring all the tell-tale lamps on at once. :-\
Its specific to that one, and is shown on the schems :y
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The connector slides up to remove iirc, then tip it towards you and it might be clearer :y
Have you tested the brake fluid level sensor? Could be an break in the wiring from that :-\ which might explain thed resistance results hand brake on/off :-\
Presume you have wiring diagram for it...
Its removing the individual pin Al, the whole plug detaches from dash easily :)
I couldn't work it out so had to attack loom with cutters :(
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Ah booger... Been a while since I've been in there, iirc I simply tapped into the relevant wires... Was when I retrofitted the Mid to the plod ;)
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Loom between dash and reservoir patched out now :'(
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Looks like that's fixed it...
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
What would you know, newbie... ;D
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
What would you know, newbie... ;D
:P :P :P ;D
That anti-bot, captcha thing gets really annoying!!
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
What would you know, newbie... ;D
:P :P :P ;D
That anti-bot, captcha thing gets really annoying!!
Well stop bullying then....
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
What would you know, newbie... ;D
:P :P :P ;D
That anti-bot, captcha thing gets really annoying!!
Been up to your tricks again? ::)
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Looks like that's fixed it...
Dropped it off at the scrap yard? :-X ::) :D
What would you know, newbie... ;D
:P :P :P ;D
That anti-bot, captcha thing gets really annoying!!
Been up to your tricks again? ::)
I'm innocent ???
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I'm innocent ???
By the looks of your PostCount, you are a Virgin! :D