Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: gbh on 28 March 2016, 11:37:16
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I've just read James informative guide to changing oil cooler and he mentions putting new washers on pipes,so to get them in early before i start the job apart from a new oil cooler what other bits and bobs will i require?Thanks Glenn
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Grey Sealant.
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New dowty washers for coolant bridge.
May be worth new cover (which comes with oil cooler kit), and you'll need grey sealant.
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Make sure you have the spanners to move the oil cooler pipes out of the way so you can get the knackered one out of the block ;)
The pipes just don't like been bent out of the way :(
Trust me ::) :-[
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Grey Sealant.
Make sure you leave the coolant out after you have used the grey sealant for about 24 hours. to set :y
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Crows foot spanner really necessary? Dowty washers what are those?
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....... Dowty washers what are those?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=dowty+washers ::) ::)
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....... Dowty washers what are those?
http://lmgtfy.com/?q=dowty+washers ::) ::)
;D ;D ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/70807181/washers.JPG)
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Oil cooler comes as a kit,with cover plate and seals/washers/nuts to hold cooler to plate.Don't think they're available separately any more.
Grey sealant.
Washers[4] for the banjo[?] bolts that pass through cooler pipes into cooler.
Dowty washers for coolant bridge.
New oil filter-which I suppose depends on whether you want to put a new one on but as it has to be removed to do oil cooler seems silly to skimp on new one.
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Crows foot spanner really necessary?
Yeah, sadly
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Well i started yesterday and it all was going well until getting the oil filter base and pipes off.As i didn't have a 12mm hex i spent some time in my neighbours garage/shed eventually found a socket with torx that fitted,then the oil pipes right hand easy, left hand had to cut a spanner down.So after a lot of struggling almost there,now how to prise off the oil cooler plate could i tap a small screwdriver under it?? After that well just reordering i suppose is there a list of washers required and are they VX only?
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Just use a thin scraper/putty knife to break seal between cooler and block as you dont want to damge surface.
I ordered coolant bridge dowty washer from GM,but assume your oil cooler kit came with washers for bolts. Dont get the cooler hallow bolts and oil cooler bolts mixed up as they are a very slightly different length. :y and remember you need 4 for the coolant bridge.
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Its off with great difficulty,those oil pipes don't move very much making everything doubly hard.Didn't have a 30mm socket and with lack of pipe movement would be hard to use,so went for a big adjustable spanner and a bar and off they came.What a mess the oil is spent some time trying to flush it out,like working on a sewage farm.What was interesting is that the cooler plate didn't have a gasket but the grey sealant is that original?
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Its off with great difficulty,those oil pipes don't move very much making everything doubly hard.Didn't have a 30mm socket and with lack of pipe movement would be hard to use,so went for a big adjustable spanner and a bar and off they came.What a mess the oil is spent some time trying to flush it out,like working on a sewage farm.What was interesting is that the cooler plate didn't have a gasket but the grey sealant is that original?
Yep.
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Oh that's good to know on such a low mileage car 48000.I see Courtenay sport are doing the oil cooler kit for £140 with washers does that seem a reasonable price?
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I recently paid just under £134 for on from the bay of e. This comprised cooler.cooler plate and washers seals and nuts to hold them together.I then bought separately the 4 dowty washers for the coolant bridge and 4 washers for the bolts that pass through cooler pipes into top of cooler.
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Oh that's good to know on such a low mileage car 48000.I see Courtenay sport are doing the oil cooler kit for £140 with washers does that seem a reasonable price?
Not much more genuine and you know they are good
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Did you slacken the oil pipes next to the filter? If not you can reasonably expect them to leak... they don't respond well to force :-\
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HKT if your question re slackening cooler pipes at engine was directed to me,then as things stand job has not yet been done.Been busy gathering all parts I want replaced and a mobile mechanic is due to arrive this Saturday to fit cam belt kit,after which I'll move car somewhere safer than side of roadand have oil cooler changed along with oil and filter change.Meanwhile car isn't being used and hasn't been since last November,hopefully have it back in use back end next week.
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No ;) was directed to OP... Re his comment about pipes being rigid...
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Yes all undone, they move a bit but i was expecting more!I had a practice today putting the plate on without sealant i managed to push or lift the longer pipe up onto the first step so i think there will be enough room to put the sealant on and not wipe it off when connecting to the oil cooler. Certainly the original sealant was a single thin line around,i guess they must have some around the bolt holes too...
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Oil cooler arrived today with an extra set of washers for the other car,have to say and recommend the supplier CourtneySport £140 with washers and sealant and excellent communication.Appear to be genuine GM parts and the oil cooler look has changed from the original that i took off.One other thing i noticed is that the cooler hollow bolts and the bridge bolts are exactly the same length although i'm sure i read on here that they were different?
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A question the oil filter housing to engine O ring does it need to be changed on reassembly? Part number?
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Oil cooler arrived today with an extra set of washers for the other car,have to say and recommend the supplier CourtneySport £140 with washers and sealant and excellent communication.Appear to be genuine GM parts and the oil cooler look has changed from the original that i took off.One other thing i noticed is that the cooler hollow bolts and the bridge bolts are exactly the same length although i'm sure i read on here that they were different?
Difference is subtle - look carefully at length of thread ;)
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Not my most successful day today looked at the banjo bolts and they seemed identical but it made little difference in the end as when i tried to reuse them 3 out of 4 sheered before 30nM.So now i will have to source some new ones begs the question why make something so fragile?Best place to source these please?Part numbers if different? Then turned to another job and sheered off my t40 torx bit so time to give it up for the day!!
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Back off holiday and had a go to try and finish the oil cooler with the newly arrived banjo bolts. All appeared to be going well filled with oil and water and started,ran for about 15 mins then i suddenly noticed rather a lot of oil on the floor.Stopped the engine had a look under thought it must cooler area so stripped it all down again and apart from a very slight amount of oil around banjo bolts the area was dry and clean.Maybe its coming out under pressure around the oil filter housing but on the top side will check tomorrow. Which way around does the paper filter go in? I put it in open end near the engine block! Ah well until tomorrow and try again!!
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Lugs fit into "lid" ;)
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Did you locate and tighten up the oil cooler pipe ends correctly at the filter end?
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Well think i found it i replaced the crush washers on one of the banjo boltsand i think that it might have worked.What happened was that i had all new washers and tried to use the old banjo bolts as they all looked the same out of the 4 i sheered 3 and one worked but i unconfident that it was ok so i replaced all 4 bolts but i reused the washers and the new ones that torqued up with old bolt seem to have leaked.I didn't realise they were one go only even if only for a few minutes. A new lesson learned now to get all that old oil out of the water system and get the heater working!!!