Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: star_whites on 06 May 2016, 08:31:39
-
Ok here's a weird one for you with more knowledge. 2.6 auto 2001.
I was driving along at 30 when we entered the 60 zone I accelerated slightly and the whole engine cut out. No eml light on so I just rolled it into the nearest entrance and tried to restart. The engine just turns over and does not fire at all.
Turned ignition off and back on and I noticed the eml is not lighting up at all even on just turning the ignition on which I thought it did. Tried pedal check and still no eml. Car still just turning over like there's no fuel however I've just put £40 in and yes I've checked the receipt it was petrol lol
I've phoned green flag to get her sorry butt dragged home but with no eml I have no idea where to start, any ideas ???
-
Crank sensor would be my starter for ten :-\
Wait a while and try to restart it... you could wait for recovery first, as it may cut out again in short order if you do get it going...
-
Ok I'm sat waiting for Green Flag so though as eml is not on if check all the connections around the fuse boxs. Found the large green 30a fuse blown in first black box that Is situated above the battery. I'm guessing this is significant.
I'm guessing this is significant and may answer the reason why the eml light is not coming on
-
Wrt pedal trick, it's the Spanner Light which flashes... no flashing means no/dead bulb :-\ The EML has either blown or been removed to mask precat issues...
Ok I'm sat waiting for Green Flag so though as eml is not on if check all the connections around the fuse boxs. Found the large green 30a fuse blown in first black box that Is situated above the battery. I'm guessing this is significant.
I'm guessing this is significant and may answer the reason why the eml light is not coming on
Possible... swap with the right hand 30A maxi fuse from under the steering wheel and report back...
Incidentally is that the fuse nearest the engine or nearest the wing?
-
Oh mechanic arrived and went for new fuse. Replaced fuse turned ignition on and it blew immediately.
Fuse is the one in the carrier that is directly above the battery. There is far be fuses in total in there, and it's the only 30 amp
-
I'm sure we've seen this before... :-\
I assume you have turned off all electrical loads before installing the new fuse?
-
Yes, everything was turned off and keys were not in the ignition.
-
Yes, everything was turned off and keys were not in the ignition.
Had this happen, changed fuse, went pop, check main feed from battery isn't shorting due to chaffing on body,
-
Yes, everything was turned off and keys were not in the ignition.
Had this happen, changed fuse, went pop, check main feed from battery isn't shorting due to chaffing on body,
I knew I'd heard it somewhere!
-
Yes, everything was turned off and keys were not in the ignition.
Had this happen, changed fuse, went pop, check main feed from battery isn't shorting due to chaffing on body,
I knew I'd heard it somewhere!
Also starter solenoid, were the supply bolts on, nut comes lose, live touch's block, :'( pop goes fuse,.
-
Well she's now home and on the drive, plus I've now got 10 spare fuses but the old girl will have to wait until tonight/tomorrow for more investigation as at work.
I will start tracing cables back and report back later. Just hope the rain holds off.
-
Well she's now home and on the drive, plus I've now got 10 spare fuses but the old girl will have to wait until tonight/tomorrow for more investigation as at work.
I will start tracing cables back and report back later. Just hope the rain holds off.
Start with tracing the +ve from the battery... If it's blowing with everything off then it's unswitched ;)
-
It actually blows as you turn the ignition on and crank the engine.
-
The 30A fusible link feeds the ECU itself, the main and fuel pump relays (purple ones in the box by the battery), the fuel pump wiring and also the 12V feed to all the engine electronics.
I would check all wiring around the engine for possible shorts - feeds to the injectors, multiram and canister purge solenoid valves, Lambda sensor wiring, cam sensor, MAF sensor and coolant temperature sensor. All are fed from this fuse. I wouldn't mind betting some of the wiring has chafed and shorted out somewhere.
-
Ok, home from work and now looking at he old girl. Straight away found second 30amp gust in fuse box next to the wing also blown so that's one blown in each fuse box.
-
Has it had a new battery recently?
-
Well that was an evening of fun, stripped all wiring back at front of engine, checked all cables and re-wrapped. Removed all connections, cleaned and refitted, did same under the car put new fuses in and blew them again.
Removed plenum and started checking all cables to notice only one cable going to tear multiram, one had cut through and was hanging down onto the manifold heat shield causing the short. Reconnected, taped up and made sure not catching anything. Put some charge back in the battery, replaced fuse again and hey presto she's back running.
Thanks for all your advice chaps, saved me a fortune not listening to the mechanic 👍👍
-
Job jobbed! :y :y :y
Glad you're sorted :)