Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: tigers_gonads on 26 August 2016, 11:37:17
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Trying to do a oil change before I invade Skegness next week and the oil filter metal housing is just starting to spin.
If I carry on turning, will it lock up so I can remove the filter ?
Looked at jamming it with a screwdriver as a last resort but don't want to end up replacing the crank sensor too.
Any idea's ?
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Trying to do a oil change before I invade Skegness next week and the oil filter metal housing is just starting to spin.
If I carry on turning, will it lock up so I can remove the filter ?
Looked at jamming it with a screwdriver as a last resort but don't want to end up replacing the crank sensor too.
Any idea's ?
have you a pair of filter removal pliers that you can grip the housing with. if in danger of damaging crank sensor is that a pain to temporary remove
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The crank sensor needs one bolt undone and it will pull out. So simple it's not worth leaving it in if you're worried about it.
The filter housing has a small lug to stop it rotating. That's easily broken off, and then you have to find some way of holding the housing, to undo the end cap, to remove the fixing bolt and replace with the modern canister type filter that was designed decades ago to prevent this sort of crap.
A strap wrench, large water-pump pliers or huge molegrips are the tools I'd start with.
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Seconded, what Nick says :y reassemble if you can, get the threaded converter part, and one/several canister filters (what was called VOF 93 but now a 'longlife' version that lasts twice as long and three times the price :D... but still only three quid-odd) :)
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I disagree on converting it to the useless spin on type, as they are just too damn messy when changing oil. Doesn't do crank sensor many favours either, being mounted below it.
Later types are generally only problematic when previously serviced by mongrels, or not serviced at all.
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I disagree on converting it to the useless spin on type, as they are just too damn messy when changing oil. Doesn't do crank sensor many favours either, being mounted below it.
Later types are generally only problematic when previously serviced by mongrels, or not serviced at all.
Dealer / local garage serviced until I got my hands on it 3 1/2 years ago.
Looking at the half rounded off nut on the end of the cap and score marks on the housing body, your probably spot on ;)
Had this problem before sadly :(
Managed to get a oil filter wrench wrapped around the housing to hold it while I removed the lid to change the filter.
In my hands this car gets the oil changed every 6 months or 5000 miles which ever comes first :)
Can the cap / lid be bought separate ?
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Trying to do a oil change before I invade Skegness next week and the oil filter metal housing is just starting to spin.
If I carry on turning, will it lock up so I can remove the filter ?
Looked at jamming it with a screwdriver as a last resort but don't want to end up replacing the crank sensor too.
Any idea's ?
Had this on both of mine - used a metal oil filter removal tool in the end to hold it and get it apart. Since I did this and only put it back on gently as it is meant to be no problem on any future changes :y I think some garages wind them up far too tight.
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Trying to do a oil change before I invade Skegness next week and the oil filter metal housing is just starting to spin.
If I carry on turning, will it lock up so I can remove the filter ?
Looked at jamming it with a screwdriver as a last resort but don't want to end up replacing the crank sensor too.
Any idea's ?
Had this on both of mine - used a metal oil filter removal tool in the end to hold it and get it apart. Since I did this and only put it back on gently as it is meant to be no problem on any future changes :y I think some garages wind them up far too tight.
15Nm iirc
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Have a couple here if you get stuck :y
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I used a chain type oil filter wrench to get the housing off mine, got it from Halfords for around £6, it was tight as a submarine door, never had a problem afterwards.
The torque setting (15Nm) is cast on the end plate IIRC :y
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Useless , just throw it in the bin and get the spin on converter thread .. Never had any oil down me arm ???
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Useless , just throw it in the bin and get the spin on converter thread .. Never had any oil down me arm ???
.... and in over 10 years I never ever had a problem with the OE metal canister ... nor did I have oil downmy arm either ;) ;)
the spin on filter is a fix to something that doesn't need fixing
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The last 2 housing caps i tried removing wouldnt budge ... like either cross threaded or something "not by me"
Just put me off ever trying again especially the cost of the replacement broken cap :o :o :o Spin on spin off easy peazy . Never looked back since changing and oil filters very cheap in bulk ;)
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Useless , just throw it in the bin and get the spin on converter thread .. Never had any oil down me arm ???
.... and in over 10 years I never ever had a problem with the OE metal canister ... nor did I have oil downmy arm either ;) ;)
the spin on filter is a fix to something that doesn't need fixing
And yet how many times has this been posted?
The first oil change on my car, I struggled to loosen the cap with a socket and ratchet. I got it undone by holding the housing with a strap wrench, and some swearing. Getting the filter out without dripping warm oil everywhere proved impossible. On reassembly, I tightened the cap with a torque wrench. Nearly a year later when the next change was almost due, I had to do the same procedure/cleaning up.
That was when I decided enough was enough, and opted for the convenience of the modern(about 60 years ago ::) ) cartridge filter designed to eliminate such issues, and haven't had a problem since. If you spin the cartridge off and turn it upright as soon as it comes free, the quick wipe of spilt oil is enough to lubricate the new filter's rubber seal, just like on the other 237,945,590,341,345,501(approx) engines that they're used on.
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And yet how many times has this been posted?
Many ...
user error maybe? :-\
The first oil change on my car, I struggled to loosen the cap with a socket and ratchet. I got it undone by holding the housing with a strap wrench, and some swearing. Getting the filter out without dripping warm oil everywhere proved impossible. On reassembly, I tightened the cap with a torque wrench. Nearly a year later when the next change was almost due, I had to do the same procedure/cleaning up.
That was when I decided enough was enough, and opted for the convenience of the modern(about 60 years ago ::) cartridge filter designed to eliminate such issues, and haven't had a problem since. If you spin the cartridge off and turn it upright as soon as it comes free, the quick wipe of spilt oil is enough to lubricate the new filter's rubber seal, just like on the other 237,945,590,341,345,501(approx) engines that they're used on.
Perhaps you should leave the torque wrench in the drawer/cupboard ;) I never had a problem, 24mm ring spanner, deft clout with the heal of my hand & it came undone .... every time, even the first time which was at around 100k miles
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just like on the other 237,945,590,341,345,501(approx) engines that they're used on.[/size]
can you quote that as words? ....... ::) ::) ie so many trillion billion gazilion :-*
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just like on the other 237,945,590,341,345,501(approx) engines that they're used on.
can you quote that as words? ....... ::) ::) ie so many trillion billion gazilion :-*
Probably. But I've had this computer a year, and the keyboard is unlikely to last long enough to type it out. The 1 on the end is mine 8)
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Useless , just throw it in the bin and get the spin on converter thread .. Never had any oil down me arm ???
I currently have 2 Omegas, one with spin-on, one with paper element.
I can tell you the later type is far less messy. They both take the same time to do, later type is quicker to clean up after. And does get hot oil all over the crank sensor.
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Spin off spin on'sies :P... got a spare cracked cap somewhere , housing intact but not lug :-X