Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: BIZYWZD on 02 September 2016, 13:26:26
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Hi Guys - can any one help?
I have been an Omega owner now off and on for 15 yrs.
Now they are the brink of becoming collectors items! and my old 2001 2.6 CDX is dying.
only 85k on the clock but I need an engine ECU as the current one got fried by a company that sounds like quick - fik
so... any ideas where I can get an ECU and have it programmed?
Thank you!!
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I think your best and cost-effective option is to simple replace the ecu, locks (well, transponders) ring round the ignition etc all together, that way the car doesn't 'know' anything has changed. Getting a new ECU and getting it reprogrammed is perhaps a question best answered by Tech2 owners on here, such as The Boy.
So long as it's the right engine and gearbox combo (pretty common, really) you should be fine, any Omega 2.6 ECU will do for a direct swap. Won't try and answer for reprogramming as it's not my field, don't even own a code reader :)
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Tech 2 only needed to correct gearbox ie auto to manual /vice versa... still plug and play regardless :y
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I have a full 2.6 ecu set avaulable including 2x key chips, it's from a manual but I don't think that is a massive issue
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How did they manage to come to that diagnosis, out of interest?
Very seldom do the ECUs give any trouble. Then again, at the hands of "thick fix". ;D
It will probably drive with a auto/manual config error but I would imagine the auto box would probably go into limp home. Easily fixed with a Tech 2.
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I'm guessing battery conection the wrong way round ::)
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Hi Guys
MASSIVE THANKYOU!
So basically - I can an ECU off EBay? get it fitted and reprogrammed with a Tech2 'puter thingy?
Its as simple as that?? Thik Fix did indeed short the old ECU but denied it... Vauxhall master fik wanted £800 quid to do it.
Im not even joking!
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Or a wanted post on here. You'll also get a bit better 'comeback' and 'aftersales care' so to speak. Also you won't be sold a lemon. :)
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ok - please can I have an Omega 2001 2.6 CDX engine ECU please? I'm willing pay for it as well!
email me - thanks! ;)
How do I post a picture of the old one on here?
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Also - I don't understand what l
locks (well, transponders) ring round the ignition
means ?
Grateful of any help. Again many thanks!
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I can supply everything you need and it's simple to swap the parts, I will message you privately ( Top of the screen under messages )
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Thank you Omegod :y
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See how helpful oof'ers are. And non of us (stemo doesn't count) wear our underwear over our trousers ;D :D
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Yes - really helpful guys - thanks again - look forward to the msg Omegod
This is the ECU I need - (experimenting with uploading images!)
(http://i1243.photobucket.com/albums/gg554/colin_smith9/Omega%20ECU_zpsmjv0tihr.jpg) (http://s1243.photobucket.com/user/colin_smith9/media/Omega%20ECU_zpsmjv0tihr.jpg.html)
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I still don't understand how they managed it and, more importantly, how they are getting away with it!
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I still don't understand how they managed it and, more importantly, how they are getting away with it!
Even grounding the coil pack power supply with the engine running fried nothing more than a wire on mine... :-X
Didn't solve the misfire issues at the time though... that took a new loom ::)
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He may have fixed it as he's not been back in touch for the ecu
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Hi Omegod
yes I do want to take you up on your offer. Just that its the weekend... I'll pm you with details tomorrow.
Thanks for all your help.
ps quick fik fried the ECU but denied it. The engine barely started and I limped to another garage who said that the codes could not be cleared (some thing about mass air flow thingy? no idea tbh) any way sent the ECU off to a pukka company to get it fixed but they said it was fried. So Im relying on people telling me whats going on. Im obv no expert and maybe a bit gullible. I found you guys by accident and within a coupe of hours Omegod gave me a sensible and cheaper solution.
Thanks to all.
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That's true. I mean the fact that you will be able to source the means to completely strip and re-do the ignition/immobiliser system for relatively cheap doesn't excuse the fact they've cause potentially four figures' worth of damage to your car - an uneconomic repair and which would write the car off. :(
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In my experience, said company operate by not being very good, but being very quick to compensate customers who have received poor service, so I'd say it would be worth taking the issue up with their head office, if it's a clear-cut case of them destroying the ECU by their own incompetence.
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Also to the OP, very glad you've got something useful. It's often the way on here, something that may cost hundreds or thousands comes out at pennies, or even free!
Not for a moment thinking you're gullible, a gullible person wouldnt seek advice, they'd swallow it as the norm. Look forward to seeing how this pans out and hope to see you as a regular OOFer :y
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Not wishing to put the mokers on a potential ECU sale, but if its gone limp and showing codes you need to get to someone who knows what there doing and with a Tech2.
As said the ECU are pretty bulliut proof, having said that they do go (Ive had 2 go on DBW's now) but when they go, they go, as in dead, non start.
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Sorry for the lack of response - had internet probs.
Hoping to use Omegod's Engine ECU with key and immobiliser code and central locking ECU
Ive pm'd Omegod
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Replied
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Thanks Omegod - payment sent
I hope it works!
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You're basically replacing the car's 'brain/personality' - so although that's perhaps a bad metaphor as in a human that's medically impossible, it's as straightforward as unbolting a wheel and bolting a new one on, the car doesn't 'know' what's happened. :)
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I'll let you know how I get on!
We could all do with a new brain now and again ;D
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A quick thought...
If the ECU brain is fitted but is blank, does the car reprogram it? and if so then I 'spose the original error codes will go to the new ECU, which can then be fixed? Sort of obvious as Im writing this, but can some one confirm please?
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The ecu you are receiving is free from codes, so once fitted along with the ring around the ignition and the supplied chips being put into your keyfob it should start and run fine. Any codes that come up from this point will reflect other issues with your vehicle. It may be wise to check your fuses prior to fiting as if your ecu was fried due to current issues it may have popped one or two. I'll get it in the post in the morning :y
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As Omega says, and I mention earlier, you're literally changing/replacing the whole car's brain/personality etc... so the car doesn't know what's happened. Think about it this way - Omegod's 'brain' is having your car's body fitted around it.
Just make sure you swap over all the bits - don't think you can just put the ecu in - no idea what that will do, but the car won't work! Fit all the bits. You'll also learn a bit about the car's security system, which is interesting. :y
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its there a photo of where the ignition ring is please? what size hammer do I use? (sort of serious cos I will have to do this myself as the car is immobile just now) ! Thanks ! :)
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If you take the cowling off the ignition there is a black plastic circle around the barrel with a small box attached with a blue electrical connection, unplug the cable and the black plastic bit will pry off with a stout screwdriver , pop it off and put the new one on and connect. No hammer should be required at any point!!!! New one is in the post :y
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You truly are a God of Omegas. 8)
Thanks again.
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You truly are a God of Omegas. 8)
Thanks again.
No he's not.......he's a very naughty boy ;D
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its there a photo of where the ignition ring is please? what size hammer do I use? (sort of serious cos I will have to do this myself as the car is immobile just now) ! Thanks ! :)
Hammer, ? to remove a Immobilizer ECU, and you thought Kwik Fit were Cowboys. :-X
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You truly are a God of Omegas. 8)
Thanks again.
No he's not.......he's a very naughty boy ;D
I'm always getting spanked .....and quite like it ;D
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Next on my list.
The passenger side front central locking doesn't work.
How do I identify the problem?
sticky knob (steady... ) or a Servo or another ECU -bloody car has 100's of them !
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Next on my list.
The passenger side front central locking doesn't work.
How do I identify the problem?
sticky knob (steady... ) or a Servo or another ECU -bloody car has 100's of them !
Might try the door solenoid first ::)
Shouldn't need a hammer either :-X
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Kevin Wood did a great guide for replacing the microswitch in the servo. About 95% of the time, that cures solenoid faults.
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My local scrappy charges a fiver for a door central locking solenoid. Changed several on different Omegas and never had a duff one yet. As you have to remove it from the car no matter which route you decide, I don't think it's worth messing about changing the micro switch IMHO for a fiver. And if you are unlucky enough to get one that is shot, then they will change it for another (they obviously mark them to stop the less honest returning the old duff one of course...)
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My local scrappy charges a fiver for a door central locking solenoid. Changed several on different Omegas and never had a duff one yet. As you have to remove it from the car no matter which route you decide, I don't think it's worth messing about changing the micro switch IMHO for a fiver. And if you are unlucky enough to get one that is shot, then they will change it for another (they obviously mark them to stop the less honest returning the old duff one of course...)
Reason for replacing switch, is all used solenoids will likely have tired switches. But for a quick fix, yeah, replace (if you can get that cheap), then refurb old one as a spare :)
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If you refurb the motor it'll only cost you a couple of quid for the switch(es) and then you get one with a brand new switch rather than one that could already be quite tired, as said.
I don't think I've ever had one fail once it's been refurbed with a new switch, but all 4 of my locking motors failed quite early on with the original switches, which makes me wonder if the original motors had a dodgy batch of switches.