Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: tunnie on 26 September 2016, 15:00:49
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To say I was sh*tting myself was an understatement, with the Omega's they are worth sod all and I was so used to them. So when working on the new car, I was very nervous. But it needed a service, as book says it was done about every 17k.
Also most modern cars look a bit of a nightmare to work on, one thing I liked about the VW is everything appeared easy access, at least for basic service work. I've previously unclipped the washer jets, from the bonnet to check and clean them as one had weak flow. Nice and easy, all unclipped very simply, for straight forward removal.
Got bits from ECP, air filter, pollen filter, oil filter and 5L of 5w30 Fully Synth for £49, went middle of the road "MANN Filters"
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0038.jpg)
Bonnet lifted and feeling nervous...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0039.jpg)
Decided to start with nice easy air filter, about 8 torx screws, simply unscrew and whole airbox lifts up.
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0041.jpg)
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0043.jpg)
Old one did need replacing...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0046.jpg)
Now the pattern part debate! :D - When I lived at home, with Vx just around the corner and Trade Club, it was a no-brainer. Now I've got my own place in Surrey, with ECP just down end of my road, so easy to get bits.
Here is the genuine filter, next to the pattern one. I can see no difference apart from an extra run of glue, I've previously serviced Omega's were the old filter was hugely different to the genuine, with much shorter elements. But this one is identical.
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0047.jpg)
Next up the oil filter, I pulled off engine cover, initially it looked a nightmare....
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0053.jpg)
But quickly discovered if I removed this...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0054.jpg)
Access was easy...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0055.jpg)
Next up was the pollen filter, these easily unscrew from underneath the glove box, to remove this foam.
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0063.jpg)
Which allowed the cover to the filter to simply unclip...
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0064.jpg)
Filter easily replaced, all in sub 5 minute job.
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0065.jpg)
Being a diesel, the oil went black straight away ;D
(http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii177/tunnie_84/VW-CC/General%20Photos/IMG_0072.jpg)
I forgot to take photos of the oil extraction process, only mistake I made was not getting the oil hot enough. I warmed it from cold, the temp gauge did rise. But next time I'll take it for a drive to get to full temp, then let it cool a bit so the oil is much thinner.
So compared to the Omega? Well it's about the same really, nothing hugely difficult at-all. I need to perfect the oil extraction method, but once that's done, should be nice and easy to do quicker oil changes.
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Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.
So since the bike is no longer in the garage :'( - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. :)
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Well done :y
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I think you're competent enough now to deal with most basic servicing on most cars :y
The Passat is fairly straightforward, and layout similar to the majority of cars for access.
Mann filters are fine, no issues at all with them (Omega air filter isn't qute as good, but its better than many).
You still paid too much. ECP are expensive, even with offers.
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Mann is OEM for many manufacturers.
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Tunnie. Hats off to you. Wasn't that long ago that your name attracted some derogatory student tags etc.
Now it is
#TunnieVolksRocks
Anyway joking apart. can the mods start a VW maintenance section......
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Wasn't that long ago that your name attracted some derogatory student tags etc.
He'll always be the useless student ;D
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Mann is OEM for many manufacturers.
What they make for manufacturers, and what they are allowed to sell in the aftermarket sector are usually very different...
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Mann is OEM for many manufacturers.
What they make for manufacturers, and what they are allowed to sell in the aftermarket sector are usually very different...
Have you ever got a quote for a manufacturer to tear down a machine setup for a short run of custom goods? The likelihood of a company like Mann having two entirely different specs for even simple parts like air filters is tiny. Nor is it uncommon for the QC on their own branded products to be better than other customers are prepared to pay for.
As I've said before, none of the five air filters I've used have had any obvious differences beyond an extra ridge of glue. These are parts that would require some seriously specialist equipment to determine if any differences are actually 'better.' That would be a test of how well and for how long it filters dirt, and how much air it flows at the same time, which are conflicting requirements. These are usually balanced by fitting as big a filter as there is space for, which is the case with Omega filters, and by changing them frequently. Which isn't a hardship for a £5 part.
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Wasn't that long ago that your name attracted some derogatory student tags etc.
He'll always be the useless student ;D
Never shake that off ;D
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Have you ever got a quote for a manufacturer to tear down a machine setup for a short run of custom goods? The likelihood of a company like Mann having two entirely different specs for even simple parts like air filters is tiny.
I am aware of some of the legal crap they have to agree to to supply parts. For the most part, the motor manufacturer supplies the spec, and they make it for the motor manufacturer. Usually, they are NOT allowed to put that same item in different packaging, and sell it into the aftermarket channel.
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I could really see no difference, size of the elements (width/depth). The rubber edging, it was identical bar the 3rd run of glue.
Oh the price was different, £7.70 vs £19.50 from VW :)
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Well done Tunnie :y
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Thanks all, have confidence to do some more jobs on it now.
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Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.
So since the bike is no longer in the garage :'( - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. :)
Just a warning Tunnie,if you didn't drain the oil via the bung a vacumn extractor will not get it all out on that engine,the older PD engines would drain completely but the newer ones leave about a litre remaining :y
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Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.
So since the bike is no longer in the garage :'( - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. :)
Just a warning Tunnie,if you didn't drain the oil via the bung a vacumn extractor will not get it all out on that engine,the older PD engines would drain completely but the newer ones leave about a litre remaining :y
Thanks, yes I did use an extractor. I've not yet sorted something to protect the car when jacking it, although now I'm now confident where I can put the axel stands.
It was tad low on oil, it was towards the bottom of the dip stick, so I figured maybe 0.5/0.75L not in it to start with. I removed around 3.5L so thought it was little low. :-\
Once I get a bit more happy about lifting the car, I'll look to use the plug :)
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Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove
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Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove
:y :y :y :y
Although I thought they were Plastic :-\
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Next up is rear brake pads and fuel filter, but want to invest in some software to do this first.
So since the bike is no longer in the garage :'( - Time to sort things out with a computer setup in there. :)
Just a warning Tunnie,if you didn't drain the oil via the bung a vacumn extractor will not get it all out on that engine,the older PD engines would drain completely but the newer ones leave about a litre remaining :y
Thanks, yes I did use an extractor. I've not yet sorted something to protect the car when jacking it, although now I'm now confident where I can put the axel stands.
It was tad low on oil, it was towards the bottom of the dip stick, so I figured maybe 0.5/0.75L not in it to start with. I removed around 3.5L so thought it was little low. :-\
Once I get a bit more happy about lifting the car, I'll look to use the plug :)
If it was mine I'd make a small access hole in the undertray to allow oil draining :y
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Also get some grease on the airbox screws, after a few years they rust and are a shit to remove
:y :y :y :y
Although I thought they were Plastic :-\
No they aren't and as Mark says they are a bastard to get out when the heads have corroded :-\
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Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them :)
Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.
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Well done Tunnie :y
I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.
As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.
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Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them :)
Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.
Any luck with the service indicator reset ???
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Well done Tunnie :y
I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.
As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.
No not keen on 17k either, I'll drop this oil fully after a 3-4k I think. Nothing better for an engine that some regular oil changes after fleet service life.
I've got all the main bits for lifting, just want to make a block or get a soft pad to jack the car.
Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them :)
Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.
Any luck with the service indicator reset ???
Not tried yet, but does appear to be ways...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo)
But in next week or so I'll probably order VCDS from here...
http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html (http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html)
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I could really see no difference, size of the elements (width/depth). The rubber edging, it was identical bar the 3rd run of glue.
Oh the price was different, £7.70 vs £19.50 from VW :)
Yup, no brainer :y
Worth checking Halfords trade prices as well, I've found them competitive for oil filters (less than £1.50 for the Rover)...
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Student - if its had long oil servicing, I'd probably change oil again (not necessarily filter) in 1k or so, then use 4k as the norm from there.
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That will be in about 2 weeks time then :)
Must sort a jack pad thingy out.
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Well done Tunnie :y
I don`t think I`d be keen on 17k servicing though, I`d be tempted to change the oil and filter halfway through at around 8-9k.
As regards to jacking have you thought abought airbag jacks like mobile tyre fitters use, apparently they jack the car up under the sills but don`t damage the plastic sill covers.
No not keen on 17k either, I'll drop this oil fully after a 3-4k I think. Nothing better for an engine that some regular oil changes after fleet service life.
I've got all the main bits for lifting, just want to make a block or get a soft pad to jack the car.
Next time the bonnet is up, I'll slap some grease on them :)
Need to inspect this under tray and find where the drain plug is in relation to it all.
Any luck with the service indicator reset ???
Not tried yet, but does appear to be ways...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KTjg0-ggeSo)
But in next week or so I'll probably order VCDS from here...
http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html (http://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCHUB.html)
if you have 13 plate then you will have different setup
you still car reset in instrument cluster much easier then in older models, just pick option in menu
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Tunnie,
For routine servicing like this, why not just grab a pair of ramps and not bother jacking at all?
I picked some up a while ago for bobbins and I can have a car on them, oil drained quicker than just jacking a car up.
To a certain extent you're duplicating tools, but given it sounds like you'll be dropping the oil every 8 minutes or so it will probably pay for itself in time saved in short order. Not to mention I'd feel safer with it on ramps than jack stands. Just personal preference though.
These are mine, but I didn't buy them new and paid rather less :)
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA (http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA)
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Tunnie,
For routine servicing like this, why not just grab a pair of ramps and not bother jacking at all?
I picked some up a while ago for bobbins and I can have a car on them, oil drained quicker than just jacking a car up.
To a certain extent you're duplicating tools, but given it sounds like you'll be dropping the oil every 8 minutes or so it will probably pay for itself in time saved in short order. Not to mention I'd feel safer with it on ramps than jack stands. Just personal preference though.
These are mine, but I didn't buy them new and paid rather less :)
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA (http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA)
Problem is that the Passat is low at the front with long overhang so doubt that he could drive up them without adding wood blocks first
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Tunnie,
For routine servicing like this, why not just grab a pair of ramps and not bother jacking at all?
I picked some up a while ago for bobbins and I can have a car on them, oil drained quicker than just jacking a car up.
To a certain extent you're duplicating tools, but given it sounds like you'll be dropping the oil every 8 minutes or so it will probably pay for itself in time saved in short order. Not to mention I'd feel safer with it on ramps than jack stands. Just personal preference though.
These are mine, but I didn't buy them new and paid rather less :)
http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA (http://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-2-tonne-car-ramps-2-pack/83061?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=GoogleLocal-_-Datafeed-_-Auto%20and%20Cleaning&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CKTQ1ZfDsM8CFQ06Gwod-sMGIA)
Thanks :y
Yes I have some ramps very similar to those, but as Henry says the front is low. I've struggled to use them without an additional block of wood to make them less steep. :(
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You need some of these's (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjM0u236bHPAhVhDsAKHVMCDA8QFgiLATAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.halfords.com%2Fworkshop-tools%2Ftools%2Fhand-tools%2Fsealey-car2001-car-ramp-extensions-400kg-each-800kg-per-pair&usg=AFQjCNH6Duy0W7snOp9ZgMJTaTABLek_ig&sig2=V4r-J_c8sRO1jOfiCOBeEw)
:)
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You need some of these's (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjM0u236bHPAhVhDsAKHVMCDA8QFgiLATAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.halfords.com%2Fworkshop-tools%2Ftools%2Fhand-tools%2Fsealey-car2001-car-ramp-extensions-400kg-each-800kg-per-pair&usg=AFQjCNH6Duy0W7snOp9ZgMJTaTABLek_ig&sig2=V4r-J_c8sRO1jOfiCOBeEw)
:)
Hmm. So do I, actually. :y
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You need some of these's (https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=6&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjM0u236bHPAhVhDsAKHVMCDA8QFgiLATAF&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.halfords.com%2Fworkshop-tools%2Ftools%2Fhand-tools%2Fsealey-car2001-car-ramp-extensions-400kg-each-800kg-per-pair&usg=AFQjCNH6Duy0W7snOp9ZgMJTaTABLek_ig&sig2=V4r-J_c8sRO1jOfiCOBeEw)
:)
Hmm. So do I, actually. :y
Make that 2, that's much better than bodging on some blocks of wood.
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Will get pair of those soon, bank balance needs to recover a bit from buying the VW and now all bits and bobs like VCDS I need to get.
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Tunnie you have pm(not about this though !) :y
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Tunnie you have pm(not about this though !) :y
Yes seen it, not responded yet sorry, been trying to locate the latest deal as one just expired :y
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Tunnie you have pm(not about this though !) :y
Yes seen it, not responded yet sorry, been trying to locate the latest deal as one just expired :y
No problem,thanks for looking :y