Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: madmandave on 29 October 2016, 13:27:27
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Hi im about to fit a hydraulic handbrake to my 2.2petrol. I bin looking at the pipes that come from the abs pump. I need to link both rears together to send into the feed side of the handbrake the split it again from outlet to both rear calipers ???
Question I have is will I still have abs ???
Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read this.any help would be a life saver
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The ABS will possibly still work, but unless you intend to go drifting your Omega, why do you want a hydraulic handbrake fitting...?
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The ABS will possibly still work, but unless you intend to go drifting your Omega, why do you want a hydraulic handbrake fitting...?
You got it one mate its booked on santa pod end of next month ;D I m about to cut the lines now so fingers crossed.
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The ABS will possibly still work, but unless you intend to go drifting your Omega, why do you want a hydraulic handbrake fitting...?
You got it one mate its booked on santa pod end of next month ;D I m about to cut the lines now so fingers crossed.
Lazy...
A bit of effort and imagination would see the mechanical handbrake replaced with hydraulic one and leaving the main brakes, and more importantly, the ABS intact :-X
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The ABS will possibly still work, but unless you intend to go drifting your Omega, why do you want a hydraulic handbrake fitting...?
You got it one mate its booked on santa pod end of next month ;D I m about to cut the lines now so fingers crossed.
Surely the 2.2 is not the correct car to drift? My 2.5's will spin the rear wheels, but my 2.2 won't. They are all Auto though...
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The ABS will possibly still work, but unless you intend to go drifting your Omega, why do you want a hydraulic handbrake fitting...?
You got it one mate its booked on santa pod end of next month ;D I m about to cut the lines now so fingers crossed.
Lazy...
Interesting would it still ratchet for mot purpose? No instructions came with the handbrake and that was the first thing that came to mind I could be wrong ?
A bit of effort and imagination would see the mechanical handbrake replaced with hydraulic one and leaving the main brakes, and more importantly, the ABS intact :-X
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Steve6367 my auto with welded diff goes in the wet pretty good but have to use the weight and massive lead foot in the dry the manual one just needs the clutch kicked in second and a lead foot even with its open diff ;D not really got enough grunt but for my first proper drifter its gonna get wrecked on the track.
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Is it still to be used on the road?
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Yes mate still needs to be street legal if possible I think its to heavy for a 3.5t beavertail :'(
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Steve6367 my auto with welded diff goes in the wet pretty good but have to use the weight and massive lead foot in the dry the manual one just needs the clutch kicked in second and a lead foot even with its open diff ;D not really got enough grunt but for my first proper drifter its gonna get wrecked on the track.
I hadn't considered the diff, guess locking that helps :y Wrecked, Omega, Wrecked :D :'(
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Don't join lines into one hydraulic cylider. Get two cylinders, linked to one lever, and run brake lines to each cylinder.
PS. how is it for everyday use with weldded diff? Noticable understeer?
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The 2.2 can become a powerful weapon with the correct bits bolted to it - like a supercharger....
You should at leats be able to get the rear to slide, but doubt it has the grunt to hold it in a drift....
I used to get mine to slide (V6 2.5 235BHP) on my local track, especially in the wet.... but that was with an auto and standard diff... which didnt help TBH.... was looking for a LSD but none came up at a good price....
With a manual, you should be able to get it to slide, especially with a welded diff. I wouldnt like to drive it on a normal road though....
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Steve6367 my auto with welded diff goes in the wet pretty good but have to use the weight and massive lead foot in the dry the manual one just needs the clutch kicked in second and a lead foot even with its open diff ;D not really got enough grunt but for my first proper drifter its gonna get wrecked on the track.
I hadn't considered the diff, guess locking that helps :y Wrecked, Omega, Wrecked :D :'(
I hope I dont wreck it lol she's a clean motor will try post some pic later it wont let me on my tablet
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Don't join lines into one hydraulic cylider. Get two cylinders, linked to one lever, and run brake lines to each cylinder.
PS. how is it for everyday use with weldded diff? Noticable understeer?
Now that would be perfect im not sure there is enough room for twin cylinders ?
As for every day use its fine mate done over 5k in my auto. You can hear the tyres skip abit on tight lock especially on shiny tarmac car parks then you get some funny looks ;D the only time it broke lose on normal driving was in a strom the other week when the road became a river.
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The 2.2 can become a powerful weapon with the correct bits bolted to it - like a supercharger....
You should at leats be able to get the rear to slide, but doubt it has the grunt to hold it in a drift....
I used to get mine to slide (V6 2.5 235BHP) on my local track, especially in the wet.... but that was with an auto and standard diff... which didnt help TBH.... was looking for a LSD but none came up at a good price....
With a manual, you should be able to get it to slide, especially with a welded diff. I wouldnt like to drive it on a normal road though....
im interested I your supercharger idea I had thought of the saab 9000 2.3 turbo unit petty sure its the same bell housing pattern? I had 1 yonks ago stage 3 map 480bhp. Now then I would have a serious machine maybe comp spec it and enter :) its fine to dive mate
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:-[ well its plumbed in but locked without applying the wand ? Need go over it all again tomorrow with more light.
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The 2.2 can become a powerful weapon with the correct bits bolted to it - like a supercharger....
You should at leats be able to get the rear to slide, but doubt it has the grunt to hold it in a drift....
I used to get mine to slide (V6 2.5 235BHP) on my local track, especially in the wet.... but that was with an auto and standard diff... which didnt help TBH.... was looking for a LSD but none came up at a good price....
With a manual, you should be able to get it to slide, especially with a welded diff. I wouldnt like to drive it on a normal road though....
im interested I your supercharger idea I had thought of the saab 9000 2.3 turbo unit petty sure its the same bell housing pattern? I had 1 yonks ago stage 3 map 480bhp. Now then I would have a serious machine maybe comp spec it and enter :) its fine to dive mate
Why not use a 2.2 Astra turbo engine? It's a simple like for like bolt in, and the only plumbing you'd have to do would be for the intercooler.
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Thats a good idea Nick thanks I take for that id need the whole loom, ecu and transponder chip and ring ?
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Yes mate still needs to be street legal if possible I think its to heavy for a 3.5t beavertail :'(
Because just wondering, something comes to mind for road legal you can't share the same hydraulic lines for normal braking and hand brake, they need to be totally independent .
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Yes mate still needs to be street legal if possible I think its to heavy for a 3.5t beavertail :'(
Because just wondering, something comes to mind for road legal you can't share the same hydraulic lines for normal braking and hand brake, they need to be totally independent .
Not 100% but should mot ok as long as it doesn't effect the pressure ie passes the rolling road test the one fitted can be locked in position. ;)
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Presumably for MoT purposes, the factory handbrake can be left in situ :-\
My concern would be hydraulic failure causing sudden braking loss...
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Presumably for MoT purposes, the factory handbrake can be left in situ :-\
My concern would be hydraulic failure causing sudden braking loss...
Yep, for this reason the MOT manual requires that the parking brake is:
"capable of being maintained in operation by direct mechanical action only"
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Yep still got factory hand brake just in the process of cutting the center console I might be able to mod the heater channel to keep the rear vent