Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: star_whites on 07 December 2016, 19:31:52
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Ok folks need a little help as I'm lost and losing the will to live with the old girl.
I posted the other week where I had a fault and the car wouldn't start, only for it to start after a few hours stood and a gallon of fuel (even though it wasn't empty).
Some suggested crank sensor and I tempted fate as she ran fine for a week then wouldn't start on leaving work last night. I bought a new sensor and have just fitted it however still nothing. She turns over but doesn't fire at all. I've checked for codes and have the following:
1613 immobiliser
0150 02 sensor
0560 system voltage
0135 sensor heater circuit
Anyone help would be appreciated as can't live without a car and can't afford a garage
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Ok I've just removed the dust cap from the pressure release valve on injectors and this usually squirts you with fuel when it's pressed and there's nothing at all. Will any of the above restrict fuel flow and would your fuel pump bring up a fault code??
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Start with the immobiliser code, as that's what it is supposed to do!
Have you dropped or disassembled the key and lost the chip inside it? This is a very common problem. If you have another key that worked before this problem began, try it first.
If you have lost the chip, you'll need a replacement and have the car coded to it.
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Ok folks need a little help as I'm lost and losing the will to live with the old girl.
I posted the other week where I had a fault and the car wouldn't start, only for it to start after a few hours stood and a gallon of fuel (even though it wasn't empty).
Some suggested crank sensor and I tempted fate as she ran fine for a week then wouldn't start on leaving work last night. I bought a new sensor and have just fitted it however still nothing. She turns over but doesn't fire at all. I've checked for codes and have the following:
1613 immobiliser
0150 02 sensor
0560 system voltage
0135 sensor heater circuit
Anyone help would be appreciated as can't live without a car and can't afford a garage
Open up the key CAREFULLY and check the tiny little square transponder chip is securely fixed in its little housing bracket .. use a dab of superglue to fix it there.
On my old 2.5 I had major problems with random starting issues, eventually found this little chip was loose in the key and was sometimes moving too far away from the other part in the system, thus it would not start as it "thought" the key was illegal. Fixed the chip in the right place and the problem never re-occurred
It might be something else of course ..but that is a worth a check as it is a simple fix
Good luck :)
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I've two keys with me and both havr their chip in them. Neither appear loose.
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Occasionally one of mine flashes the immobiliser lamp and wont start, the cause seems to be the cable connection to the immobiliser module attached to the steering column, a quick wiggle of the connector and away it goes.
However, if the immobiliser lamp isn't flashing when you turn the key then doubtful this is the cause.
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Ok daft question but which is the immobiliser light?
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Ok daft question but which is the immobiliser light?
Same one that flashes the codes for pedal trick. bottom left corner of Rev counter
Immobilisor issue will cause that light to flash constantly.
This may be worth a try . . . sit in drivers seat with doors closed . . .do a re set with key in ignition . . switch to position II . . press lock on key fob . .doors should lock & then unlock again. Then switch off . . .remove key & get out of car . Lock doors with fob from outside of car . . .then open doors with fob again . get back in car & try to start engine as normal. This has worked for a couple of oof members in this situation, myself included . . . . ;) the bad news is one of those cases it was a faulty ECU :'(
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Tried to do this but my key won't lock the car while the key is in the ignition. Looks like it's signal strength as when I remove the key and hold it up it will then lock it.
Also just to rule it out I've sent our driver for a gallon of fuel just to make sure the gauge hasn't gone daft and I have run out of fuel. If I have then it's either leaking out or someone is stealing it !
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Tried to do this but my key won't lock the car while the key is in the ignition. Looks like it's signal strength as when I remove the key and hold it up it will then lock it.
Also just to rule it out I've sent our driver for a gallon of fuel just to make sure the gauge hasn't gone daft and I have run out of fuel. If I have then it's either leaking out or someone is stealing it !
Will car lock & unlock from outside using your fobs ? If yes read on . .
Had a similar issue recently with my 2.6 estate . . . could not do a door lock reset . . found out it was something to do with the door pin switches for the puddle lights. One switch was not connecting(rear o/s door ) & puddle light was not switching on . Serviced switch with a bit of switch spray & then reset worked as did the second press for deadlocking which previosly was not working :y It must be to do with the switch telling something that door is open or closed maybe :-\ :-\ but sorted my issue.
Another point . . & may be you already know this . .but do you park on an incline , hill or slope , as estates apparently are prone to not starting if parked like this . HTH :y
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See you have requested a fuel pump in"wanted" to test yours I think it is just the case of removing the feed pipe at side of the plenum & the getting some to turn engine over with key while you hold pipe into a small vessel or even a rag . Sure that pump only operates when engine is turned :-\
Hopefully someone else will confirm this . . .but sure it is linked to crank sensor :-\
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Well I've put the extra gallon of fuel in and the gauge went up even further but still not engine spark.
Immobiliser light is not flashing when cranking engine so think I can rule that out as well. Back to thinking the fuel pump is goosed. Lunch has finished now and school concert tonight so she's gonna have to sit there another night.
Oh and on another note the car was parked on a slope but we dragged her into the workshops which is completely flat so don't think this should matter.
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If injectors are not firing and you have no spark then its crank sensor or immobiliser
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Hi Mark, there's no fuel coming out of the relief valve at the back of the injector manifold, that's why I'm thinking fuel pump
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Beware that some Omega setups do not prime the fuel system until the crank sensor detects rotation, so it might not be as clear cut as that.
I would remove the fuel pump relay and connect a jumper between the contacts to verify that it can be heard running. Then check that it has left pressure behind the schraeder valve at the rear of the manifold.
If it doesn't fire and the immobiliser light isn't flashing, the most likely issue is the crank sensor, IMHO.
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Hi Kevin, I fitted a new crank sensor last night to rule that out.
If I'm honest I didn't know the fuel pump had it's own relay, which and where is this relay??
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It's one of the 2 purple ones on the rear row of the engine bay fuse box. The one furthest from the engine, if memory serves.
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Two relays next to each other, one does fuel pump, tother injectors :y
Is the the car that was awaiting recovery a while back?
Did you carry out ANY of my suggestions?
Testing fuel pump is free and easy... Whack the tank whilst the engine is cranked...
Note, if previously run dry, a weak pump will be reluctant to prime the fuel rail... Ensure tank is at least half full before trying the above test.
I have had a 3.2 cut out with a quarter tank showing on the gauge, so comment only from experience ;)
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Hiya, yes this is the same car.
I've replaced the crank sensor and I've swapped the purple relays. There's 3/4 tank of fuel in the tank so I removed the fuel hoses off the manifold and cranked her over and not one drop came out, due to this my gut feeling is fuel pump.
I've also removed the cowling from the steering column and checked the connector to ignition module as suggested But no joy.
I've had someone stand and listen/look at the engine turning over as it doesn't sound fast but I don't know if this is because of being short of fuel so I'm going to remove the timing cover and check that all the pulleys and belt are ok.
Anymore suggestions would be appreciated
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Have you tried the free test to confirm the pump?
Simply slap the base of the tank whilst someone cranks it.
The slow cranking is because the battery is getting tired.
Also double check fuse 18 under the column as that has been known to stop a car dead... As MarksDTM will testify :D
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Yes, I've checked every fuse and there all ok.
No I've not done the slap test as I've been working on it at night in the factory when everyone else has gone home.
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Well after a week of pulling my hair out she lives !!!
I came in this morning and tried the slap test as recommended to no avail, removed crank sensor again and refitted, had one of the electricians test me the relays, removed everything to get to heck the timing belt and all ok.
So thought sod it and removed the fuel pump, that was a pain in the arse. Stripped it down and drained, wiped it down then connected it directly to the battery, their was a hum but nothing. I'd only put in in for a couple of seconds with the help of a friend, I wanted to blow him up as well, so we put it back on and held it on. Their was a hum but nothing then all of a sudden it spat fuel everywhere that made up take connection off. Pissed myself layghting as it covered Pete then reconnected it, more fuel came out and air then started humming smoothly. Cleaned it all up and reassembled making sure everything was clean and connected properly. Crossed my fingers, turned the key and she sprang straight to life and has been running 30 minutes. I've now turned her off to leave her to cool and I will try her again later hoping she will start again.
It just looks like their was a blockage in the fuel pump, I'm going to order a new one anyway as recommended but I'm hoping that this may have cured it. I did notice some rust on the top cover but can't imagine this caused it as it's not all the way through.
Anyways thanks for everyone's help, it's been long winded but she lives and the that's the main thing, hopefully many more years motoring to come from the old girl.
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Update - she doesn't live lol
I let her go cool while I put everything back together and cleaned all my tools, then when I went to turn her over she gives a quick fire then turns off again. Looks like the pump is shot so a new one is now in order and awaiting delivery.
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Be up and running in no time :y