Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Shackeng on 10 December 2016, 12:47:40
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As I have an intermittent non-starting fault on the TD, I intend to change the ign switch as a first option. Looking at Haynes, it seems it may be possible to swap this without removing the steering wheel or ign barrel. Has anyone done this who can comment?
Also aftermarket switches are only a few quid, any recommendations for quality AM parts?
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What has led you to conclude it's the switch? :)
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Only the issues described in my 'Help wanted' post James. Briefly, it failed to start away from home with no other indications, no clicking, no lights dimming. I could only check by hand that the wires were connected to the starter. Breakdown guy got a jump wire to the solenoid 'trigger' connection (his term), drove home where it now starts OK. However I have no wish for it to happen again, and if it does, I will need to offer breakdown insurance evidence that some repair has been carried out, otherwise I suspect they may be a bit miffed. :y
Oh and Nick's comment that they are a not uncommon failure on the older Vauxhalls. :y
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SWMBO's Golf behaved as described for a while. I swapped a relay that might have been the cause (it wasn't) before doing a continuity/waggle test and finding that a wire in the loom from body to gearbox had fractured.
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SWMBO's Golf behaved as described for a while. I swapped a relay that might have been the cause (it wasn't) before doing a continuity/waggle test and finding that a wire in the loom from body to gearbox had fractured.
Tthis may well be the case with a '99 vehicle, and I have tried wiggling a few wires and re-checking, but nothing appears so far. :y
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Nick W has also written several times that some proper, rather than internet, diagnosis is required before you start buying and swapping parts.
My comments were meant to aid you in doing that diagnosis in an efficient manner.
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Nick W has also written several times that some proper, rather than internet, diagnosis is required before you start buying and swapping parts.
My comments were meant to aid you in doing that diagnosis in an efficient manner.
And appreciated. Having done some brief investigation this afternoon, and perusal of the cct diagram, it seems clear that the - intermittent - fault (which still has not recurred) lies somewhere in the switching cct to the solenoid, which still works fine. So unless I can reproduce the fault once I have the steering plastic off and can get a tester on to the wiring, the switch is the next thing to replace. :y
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(http://i952.photobucket.com/albums/ae10/Tristar-1/Omega%20TD%20ign%20switch%20002_zpst531hna3.jpg) (http://s952.photobucket.com/user/Tristar-1/media/Omega%20TD%20ign%20switch%20002_zpst531hna3.jpg.html)
Can anyone amplify the instruction in the guide "Insert a small screwdriver into the connector release hole, keeping the screwdriver at the key end of the hole, and press to release the latch, at the same time as pulling / levering the connector off the switch. It is a tight fit but if it doesnt move you havnt deprssed the latch enough or have pressed on the wrong part of the latch."
The small white piece of plastic in the hole, if it is the connector latch, does not want to move in any direction, so before I force it in the wrong direction, do I press in, right, left, or down? :-\
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I guess nobody has done this recently. :-\ :-\ :-\
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I did with my Mk2 Astra and with my Mk 1 Carlton but that was over 20 years ago :-\
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I did with my Mk2 Astra and with my Mk 1 Carlton but that was over 20 years ago :-\
:D ;D ;D ;D
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I did it on an Omega 2.0 petrol I was stripping for spares. I do not know if I have any of the spares in my spares heap, i will check tomorrow. Looking in Haynes, I made a meaningful cross against the bold type below pcture 23.12 chapter 10.16. I recall it was tricky, and it came apart in the end. Above picture 23.13a I have written 'undo grub screw! and pull off'. It must be 8 years ago, will look for pics, but have found none yet.
My notes suggest the small white rectangle visible to the left of the switch is the tab you depress, as does Haynes picture.
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I did one several years ago, but don't remember how.
And telling you how to change the ignition switch on a Piper Cherokee, which I did today, won't help you very much
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I did one several years ago, but don't remember how.
And telling you how to change the ignition switch on a Piper Cherokee, which I did today, won't help you very much
Nope, and even though I've changed them on a Beverley, Anson and Shackleton, doesn't help me much either!
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I did it on an Omega 2.0 petrol I was stripping for spares. I do not know if I have any of the spares in my spares heap, i will check tomorrow. Looking in Haynes, I made a meaningful cross against the bold type below pcture 23.12 chapter 10.16. I recall it was tricky, and it came apart in the end. Above picture 23.13a I have written 'undo grub screw! and pull off'. It must be 8 years ago, will look for pics, but have found none yet.
My notes suggest the small white rectangle visible to the left of the switch is the tab you depress, as does Haynes picture.
I agree with all that Terry, but as you know plastic retainining clips, especially old ones, can be very brittle. This may not matter if the latch is part of the switch to be replaced, but I'll wait until the new one arrives which will help. :y
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I did one several years ago, but don't remember how.
And telling you how to change the ignition switch on a Piper Cherokee, which I did today, won't help you very much
Nope, and even though I've changed them on a Beverley, Anson and Shackleton, doesn't help me much either!
In fact IIRC, I've still got a set of Hastings ign switches, unless I sold them. Hmmm, can't remember, but I haven't seen them for some time. :-\ :-\ :-\
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First question, is the TD switch the same as a petrol one?
If yes, the the picture doesn't show the correct area, needs to be more to the right to show the alloy casing on the column...
Requires a 4mm Allen key to release the lock tab, and when I see the hole, I shall be able to identify it... No pun intended :D
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is this what you were looking for? http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90601.0 The last switch I replaced was a looong time ago on a Manta .... though I removed a barrel to replace the tumblers on my Omega
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That's it :y
The whole into which you carefully insert the short end of your 4 mm Allen key is just visible to the upper right of the assembly pictured in first pic ;) This removes the lock barrel...
To release the switch assembly shown in your pic, position the screwdriver vertically into the hole at the side nearest the key, needs to be pushed in squarely towards the centreline of the mechanism.
The second pic in the guide shows clearly what you're aiming to release :y
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The whole into ....
is that all of it or just part of it? ::)
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The whole into ....
is that all of it or just part of it? ::)
It goes into the whole hole :P
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The whole into ....
is that all of it or just part of it? ::)
It goes into the whole hole :P
;) :y :y
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I think there may be some confusion here. Firstly, thanks for the guide reference, which I have seen already, hence my request for clarification of the instructions. I have already removed the key barrel with no difficulty, and have removed the grub screw and the switch & connector assembly from the steering lock (into which the barrel fits), with the switch in position 1.
It is the instruction referring to the connector release hole that I am asking for clarification on.
Insert a small screwdriver into the connector release hole, keeping the screwdriver at the key end of the hole, and press to release the latch, at the same time as pulling / levering the connector off the switch.
In the guide picture after connector removal, the latch is black, and it looks as if it should be pressed in, but mine does not wish to move in any direction, and to avoid breaking anything, I am going very gently, and I think perusal of the new switch will help. :y
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Barrel back in and in position 1 then try again...
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As quoted above it is in position 1. :y
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With the key and barrel in situ?
Pic shows assembly at position 0.
As above, with key and barrel in place and turned to position 1, insert a small flat screwdriver parallel and adjacent to the right hand/key side of the square hole. Apply pressure towards the centreline of the lock assembly.
Removing the grub screw might prove to have been premature.
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Cheers Al, my switch is definitely at position 1, double checked it before removal of barrel, and checked again since removal. I removed the grub screw to examine the assembly more easily. But once certain of the tab to be pressed after examination of new switch, I will replace it to allow more purchase on the connector. Thanks for confirmation that it has to be pressed towards the centre, as suspected from the guide pic. :y
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The disconnection of the switch from the connector was easy once I could see the new one, and its retaining tang. However having removed the barrel with some difficulty, I discovered that the retaining latch is broken, the bit which is released by insertion of, in my case, an Allen key. So if anyone has a spare barrel, or can recommend a good aftermarket replacement, I would be grateful. :y
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I've got one on the breaker, if i can release the bugger. They are a tad fragile and I've had the same issue
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I've got one on the breaker, if i can release the bugger. They are a tad fragile and I've had the same issue
Thanks OG, I had no trouble getting the barrel out, but discovered it has a snapped retaining latch. The new switch and connector went on with no bother. :y
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Courtesy of Pauls, I now have a serviceable replacement barrel fitted with the sliders from the old one, everything now working OK, and I can only hope that the non-start problem was a faulty switch. For information, the Febi replacement switch is identical to the OE switch (hopefully without a failure mode ::)) with the GM logo ground out. :y