Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: spanish_lad on 19 January 2017, 17:22:55
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ok, hello again, its been a while! haha
so i took the omega for its ITV today (mot) and they failed it on a couple of bits.. track rod ends, headlight hazing blah blah, and the EML being on, they refused to do the emissions test (spain ::) )
ok, so whats the likely cause of the EML being on? or is it a million and 1 reasons? I think the exaust is blowing a little bit so it might be reading the 02 sensor?
ive got it in for the track rod ends at the moment (yes i know its easy, but its been snowing so i´d rather pay someone to fit the parts ive supplied them ;D ;D ) so i cant look at it, but im gonna see if they can tighten it up for me while its in the air? See if that helps it at all
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sidenote : i looked up how to do the paperclip thing, but wasnt sure what i was seeing. 44 is 4 flashes, gap, 4 flashes? indicating a lean 02 sensor, indicating a blowing exaust?
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Read the Codes, Paper Clip Test.
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when i get it back from the garage tomorrow i will do that again, is there a picture guide or video to what im looking at ? obviously the first thing i will look at (again) is the exaust, because although i cant feel anything, i can hear it blowing somewhere - and im sure that would cause the light to come on?
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ive just clicked on "unread posts" and seen that i posted this same thread.. in november 2012 ??? ??? the light has been on for 5 years ... :o :o :o
oh. my. god.
strange how they now changed the rules and they wont let it pass ... >:(
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So youve been driving around with the EML light on for 5 years, or, youve been driving around with no MOT for 4.
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:-\ eml light has been on for years. after the manifold gasket change. its not been a problem before, the car runs fine, its only used about 6 times a month. its my mothers car really, she doesnt drive much. if it starts, she drives it... i dont think she knows where the bonnet catch is tho... ::)
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:-\ eml light has been on for years. after the manifold gasket change. its not been a problem before, the car runs fine, its only used about 6 times a month. its my mothers car really, she doesnt drive much. if it starts, she drives it... i dont think she knows where the bonnet catch is tho... ::)
Exhaust Manifold par chance, if so check the Lamda Sensor and Plug / Wiring.
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yes, exaust manifold gaskets both sides were changed around nov 2012, so thats a good indication. Also i just thought, the rocker covers are leaking a little so maybe that could be something to do with it?
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ok, so i finally picked up the omega from the garage today after its had a new idler arm & TR on the (uk) drivers side. total cost 2 hours labour, tracking, and iva (vat) was 97€ - so about 80 quid plus the parts. not bad really. i didnt want to do it myself, laying on the floor in the snow :D ;D
so now then, ive been able to do the paperclip test. Im pretty sure its a code 16 (knock signal circuit 1), code 73 (maf low), and 144 &145 (imob. wrong code / no code)
the 144 & 145 will probably go away after a lock / reset because the garage have been playing with it etc.
now code 16 worries me, knock sensor?
code 73 - maf sensor low - does it need a new one? i can order one now online.
can anyone help me out on these codes please? whats a knock sensor? could it be cheap fuel making it play silly beggers?
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Cheap fuel would only cause knock if you're buying it from pikeys in 5 litre plastic bottles, ie must be really shocking :o
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Sorry, I should of said 95 Ron unleaded instead of the 4* 98 Ron premium stuff - it's 20-25c a litre cheaper
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A knock sensor bank 1 code is usually caused by the wire being damaged (either where it comes out of the cable tray or by being clamped between the block and the aux belt tensioner)
is the MAF actually connected? I can't remember whether the MAF plug and the bank 1 knock sensor plug are the same :-\ from memory I don't think they are quite close enough together to get them confused :-\
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Fix the knock sensor, worry about maf later - maf might be a duff code in this case
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thanks guys - so it seems that the "course of action" would be to fix one problem at a time, and reset the MIL between items, to see if the light stays off?