Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: X30XE on 19 February 2017, 19:00:56
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Is there any solvent that's even halfway as effective as carb' cleaner that's available in bulk for a more economical price point than afor mentioned? :-\
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I wouldn't be using anything from Halfords to remove crabs... best to see your GP or local clinic...
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What kind of crab is it?? ;D
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STP-CARB-SPRAY-CLEANER-500ML-AEROSOL-FOR-CARBURETTORS-12pk-/181942989172?hash=item2a5ca5b174:g:EHYAAOSw8-tWVtU1
Any use?
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Cellulose thinners. 5 litres will last ages and cost about a tenner. Will kill crabs too, if you can stand the pain :o
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STP-CARB-SPRAY-CLEANER-500ML-AEROSOL-FOR-CARBURETTORS-12pk-/181942989172?hash=item2a5ca5b174:g:EHYAAOSw8-tWVtU1
Any use?
Bought the 4 pack of the very same from Egay the other day. Only got 1 left. Not really cost effective when you're fighting years of neglect.
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Is there any solvent that's even halfway as effective as carb' cleaner that's available in bulk for a more economical price point than afor mentioned? :-\
Diluted acetone
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Cellulose thinners. 5 litres will last ages and cost about a tenner. Will kill crabs too, if you can stand the pain :o
Does it cut through burnt oil more effectively than diesel? And will it eat Polypropelene?
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Or this http://www.mbfg.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol/isopropyl-alcohol-ipa-5-litre.html
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Or this http://www.mbfg.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol/isopropyl-alcohol-ipa-5-litre.html
Flashes off too quickly. I'd end up blowing my garage up ;D
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Do you have a dishwasher?
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Do you have a dishwasher?
Yep... Never use it.... ???
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Do you have a dishwasher?
Yep... Never use it.... ???
Excellent, your missus won't notice then... :y
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Cellulose thinners. 5 litres will last ages and cost about a tenner. Will kill crabs too, if you can stand the pain :o
Does it cut through burnt oil more effectively than diesel? And will it eat Polypropelene?
Than diesel? Oh yes, it's quite an aggressive solvent.
As for polypropelene, I don't know. But I've used it for years on all sorts of parts without any problems, so it's probably OK. But just as the instructions for any effective cleaner state, try it on an unimportant area first :y
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Petrol.
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For cleaning alloy blocks full of black good then good solvent paint stripper is the stuff to look for
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Or this http://www.mbfg.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol/isopropyl-alcohol-ipa-5-litre.html
Flashes off too quickly. I'd end up blowing my garage up ;D
Go for it - it's been too long since we had an OOF disaster movie...
Also who's edited the title? Spoilsports!
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Cellulose thinners. 5 litres will last ages and cost about a tenner. Will kill crabs too, if you can stand the pain :o
Does it cut through burnt oil more effectively than diesel? And will it eat Polypropelene?
Than diesel? Oh yes, it's quite an aggressive solvent.
As for polypropelene, I don't know. But I've used it for years on all sorts of parts without any problems, so it's probably OK. But just as the instructions for any effective cleaner state, try it on an unimportant area first :y
Well for £12 delivered it's worth a try. Thanks :y
Yeah funny how you never see that warning on cosmetic products eh :D ;D
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I find Domino printer 'wash' is very good ...... ::) ..... and cheap too :y
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Is that not just IPA by any other name? :-\
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Or this http://www.mbfg.co.uk/isopropyl-alcohol/isopropyl-alcohol-ipa-5-litre.html
Flashes off too quickly. I'd end up blowing my garage up ;D
Go for it - it's been too long since we had an OOF disaster movie...
Also who's edited the title? Spoilsports!
"Crab" cleaner was much more interesting ;)
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Hey! Who's been messin with my title! Put it back >:( Bloody grammar nazis :D
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Go to pound land, get large tin of oven cleaner, spray over area, drink tea, then brush in well, wash off, :y
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Go to pound land, get large tin of oven cleaner, spray over area, drink tea, then brush in well, wash off, :y
Also assuming this is for an aluminium v8 in the other thread, and continuing the kitchen cleaner theme; Fairy Power Spray apparently works extremely well.. here's some evidence: http://www.cobraclub.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49330 (not my thread or engine)
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I buy bottles of "engine cleaner and degreaser" from the local pound shop. Spray it on, brush it in, go and have a cuppa and then jetwash / chuck it in the parts washer. Seems to do the trick for oil and grease. If carbon is the issue, oven cleaner or paint stripper, as previously mentioned.
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I buy bottles of "engine cleaner and degreaser" from the local pound shop. Spray it on, brush it in, go and have a cuppa and then jetwash / chuck it in the dishwasher. Seems to do the trick for oil and grease. If carbon is the issue, oven cleaner or paint stripper, as previously mentioned.
Fixed :y
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I put my carbs into the washing machine ;)
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I buy bottles of "engine cleaner and degreaser" from the local pound shop. Spray it on, brush it in, go and have a cuppa and then jetwash / chuck it in the dishwasher. Seems to do the trick for oil and grease. If carbon is the issue, oven cleaner or paint stripper, as previously mentioned.
Fixed :y
The sump from a V8 will not fit in the dishwasher you white goods abuser you ;D ;D
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You clearly need a bigger one then ;D
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If I could brave the cold outside I'd go and measure mine just to see ;D
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If I could brave the cold outside I'd go and measure mine just to see ;D
You could probably take a bath in one of yours, never mind fitting it in the dishwasher!
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;D ;D ;D
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Go to pound land, get large tin of oven cleaner, spray over area, drink tea, then brush in well, wash off, :y
The Alloy Wheel Foam Cleaner from Poundland also works really well as a cleaner (smells like it contains Ammonia), do my throttle bodles, multi Rams, breathers etc, comes up a treat. ;)
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Procured 5L of thinners from my local paint supplier. Going through the oil varnish like a hot knife through butter. Now wondering if the hydraulic lifters I gave up on could have been soaked and saved. Ho hum. Next time ::)
One of the redeeming things about this engine, other than it's mechanical simplicity, is everything is cheap. New timing chain is only £5.99 :)
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I don't like using waterbased degreasers as all the shite ends up in the watercourses when you wash it off. Least with solvents you can dispose of it irresponsibly into a hedg... I mean down the local recycling centre :D
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Procured 5L of thinners from my local paint supplier. Going through the oil varnish like a hot knife through butter. Now wondering if the hydraulic lifters I gave up on could have been soaked and saved. Ho hum. Next time ::)
One of the redeeming things about this engine, other than it's mechanical simplicity, is everything is cheap. New timing chain is only £5.99 :)
The lifters are usually dished and worn rather than clogged up, just be very wary of some parts, generally if it has Britpart written on it then its utter shite!
Worth checking your rocker shafts as they wear very badly to (pull one of the rockers against the spring on the shaft and check for scouring. When they get bad the rockers can fracture and the oil pressure in the whole engine also drops as it pisses out the shaft.
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Procured 5L of thinners from my local paint supplier. Going through the oil varnish like a hot knife through butter. Now wondering if the hydraulic lifters I gave up on could have been soaked and saved. Ho hum. Next time ::)
One of the redeeming things about this engine, other than it's mechanical simplicity, is everything is cheap. New timing chain is only £5.99 :)
The lifters are usually dished and worn rather than clogged up, just be very wary of some parts, generally if it has Britpart written on it then its utter shite!
Worth checking your rocker shafts as they wear very badly to (pull one of the rockers against the spring on the shaft and check for scouring. When they get bad the rockers can fracture and the oil pressure in the whole engine also drops as it pisses out the shaft.
Yeah I see that in pictures on t'internet a lot but strangely given the complete lack of maintenance mine has clearly had they're barely dished at all. They have suffered internally though from disgusting oil.
Oh 'dangle berries' :( Just arrived today. Don't like the look of the machining marks on them. Don't look properly chromed either. Dammit. Pay cheap...
They are slightly mullared indeed. At the moment I'm trying to get the thing running again to get an MOT on it. Depending on the outcome of that I may completely rebuild the engine/replace the engine.
Any pearls of wisdom on cam timing? All the advice online seems fiendishly complicated for an engine with two sprockets with fixed keyways. Can't see how it could require protractors/dial indicators to set up correctly when a chain link must be 10 deg? :-\
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They are slightly mullared indeed. At the moment I'm trying to get the thing running again to get an MOT on it. Depending on the outcome of that I may completely rebuild the engine/replace the engine.
Any pearls of wisdom on cam timing? All the advice online seems fiendishly complicated for an engine with two sprockets with fixed keyways. Can't see how it could require protractors/dial indicators to set up correctly when a chain link must be 10 deg? :-\
If you're using a stock camshaft, then just lining up the marks on the timing gears will be enough. If you're fitting a performance cam(and I would as they're cheap and really effective) then a DTI is necessary to get it right. Timing a single cam with a DTI is actually a pretty simple procedure. And what sort of idiot buys an upgraded part and installs it incorrectly?
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They are slightly mullared indeed. At the moment I'm trying to get the thing running again to get an MOT on it. Depending on the outcome of that I may completely rebuild the engine/replace the engine.
Any pearls of wisdom on cam timing? All the advice online seems fiendishly complicated for an engine with two sprockets with fixed keyways. Can't see how it could require protractors/dial indicators to set up correctly when a chain link must be 10 deg? :-\
If you're using a stock camshaft, then just lining up the marks on the timing gears will be enough. If you're fitting a performance cam(and I would as they're cheap and really effective) then a DTI is necessary to get it right. Timing a single cam with a DTI is actually a pretty simple procedure. And what sort of idiot buys an upgraded part and installs it incorrectly?
I'm re-using the old one currently. Can you remember off the top of your noggin where the timing marks are on the block?
It is if you have a DTI yes. I might fit a torque optimised cam if I do end up rebuilding it completely then.
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I'm re-using the old one currently. Can you remember off the top of your noggin where the timing marks are on the block?
It is if you have a DTI yes. I might fit a torque optimised cam if I do end up rebuilding it completely then.
Every OHV engine I've seen has the marks on the timing gears, not the block. The gears are keyed to the cam and crank; all you do is align the dots to each other, and ensure they stay that way when the chain is tensioned. Being an American designed engine, the Rover may not have a timing chain tensioner ;D
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I'm re-using the old one currently. Can you remember off the top of your noggin where the timing marks are on the block?
It is if you have a DTI yes. I might fit a torque optimised cam if I do end up rebuilding it completely then.
Every OHV engine I've seen has the marks on the timing gears, not the block. The gears are keyed to the cam and crank; all you do is align the dots to each other, and ensure they stay that way when the chain is tensioned. Being an American designed engine, the Rover may not have a timing chain tensioner ;D
Thanks. I'm not used to this antiquated shit. :D
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Shit is the correct word! ;D :y
There are centre dots on the sprockets which you align, 6 Oclock for the cam and 12 Oclock for the crank, the better crank sprockets have multiple keyways which give some adjustment (you can select the keyway slot to give optimum timing) but the biggest issue is the poor quality chains, you may well find that even a new one is slack still!
As for cams, you have to be a bit careful as many require the valve guides machining down a bit to accommodate the extra lift but, the likes of a Hurricane are a good compromise (the 3.9 injection cam always gave a really nice cheap upgrade on the a 3.5). A good and simple performance booster is to machine down the inlet valve guides in the port a bit (don't bother with the exhaust as the gains are minimal and it affects valve heat transfer) then match the ports to the inlet manifold gasket.
As for the followers, any wear at all no matter how small means they are goosed as the hardening is very thin, check also the cam lobes as they are raised slightly at one edge of the peak which is supposed to rotate the follower, wear here very quickly accelerates.
Done forget you will need to set the follower preload on rebuild with shims under the rocker shaft mounts.
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Shit is the correct word! ;D :y
There are centre dots on the sprockets which you align, 6 Oclock for the cam and 12 Oclock for the crank, the better crank sprockets have multiple keyways which give some adjustment (you can select the keyway slot to give optimum timing) but the biggest issue is the poor quality chains, you may well find that even a new one is slack still!
Yep. Can see that inevitability coming a mile off :(
As for cams, you have to be a bit careful as many require the valve guides machining down a bit to accommodate the extra lift but, the likes of a Hurricane are a good compromise (the 3.9 injection cam always gave a really nice cheap upgrade on the a 3.5). A good and simple performance booster is to machine down the inlet valve guides in the port a bit (don't bother with the exhaust as the gains are minimal and it affects valve heat transfer) then match the ports to the inlet manifold gasket.
Mine is a late 4.0 (3.9)
As for the followers, any wear at all no matter how small means they are goosed as the hardening is very thin, check also the cam lobes as they are raised slightly at one edge of the peak which is supposed to rotate the follower, wear here very quickly accelerates.
It's safe to assume that everything is a bit goosed with the care it's not had. If it can pass an MOT then she can have shiney new bits.
Done forget you will need to set the follower preload on rebuild with shims under the rocker shaft mounts.
So I read... but don't understand why? Surely the whole point of the hydraulic lifters is that they compensate for any slack? :-[
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Its because the engine is far from a precision built unit and there is quite a bit of variance, clearly there has to be some load on the lifter or you get a lot of tapping (plus mega fast cam and follower wear) and to much load and the oil port in the follower gets covered and they don't fill.
There is a much easier method than using the wire feeler gauges on the follower for setting it which is described quite well here:
http://www.v8developments.co.uk/technical/valve_train/index.shtml
They are an engine which really needs oil changes aver 3-5k miles and is far more dependent on oil flow than pressure, sadly they don't see this and continue to appear to run ok......but then if you are down a bit on 2 cylinder and 1 is not firing at all then you hardly notice on a V8
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Thanks Mark.
And the shims are going to have to be the genuine article as that's were the oil feed for the rocker shaft comes up as well... great. ::)
The more I see of this engine the more I wonder why I'm bothering for 180bhp and probably 15mpg :-\
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Thanks Mark.
And the shims are going to have to be the genuine article as that's were the oil feed for the rocker shaft comes up as well... great. ::)
The more I see of this engine the more I wonder why I'm bothering for 180bhp and probably 15mpg :-\
They have a following in the UK mainly due to the fact that they were about the only V8 we had in any quantity for a few decades.
They are pretty light though but demonstrate a lack of development (in fact Rover buggered the Buick head design up when they took it on).
Plenty of shim kits about though, not overly expensive and the aftermarket ones seem as good as the genuine.
The thing I hate the most is the fact you need Metric (fuel injection bits), Imperial (many of the block fastenings which didn't change from the US design) and Whitworth (the bits Rover pissed with) tools to work on them.
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Aye, true.
Seems odd to me that given the "that'll do" engineering tolerances that all the valves on each rocker need shimming the same amount; as you can't shim them unevenly without bending the rocker shaft. :-\
I think they must have standardised it when they got to the late 90s as the only embuggerance I've come accross is 12pt 8mm studs holding the rocker covers on. I mean really... who keeps 12pt sockets below 10mm ::)
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Caustic chemicals are quite effective. :y
Probably more care has to be taken with the correct protection for the user.
Don`t let any onto your skin as it will burn & use a face mask etc.
Keep animals well out of the way & hose down any spills quickly
Small scale ie small amount of Harpic power plus (yes the toilet cleaner) in a jar.
paint onto say a scaled up carb bowl & work well into all areas with a stiff paint brush
Quickly Rinse in a bucket of cold water to neutralse any chemical
the speed that this stuff works is what I like & It`s also extrememly effective at removing petrol varnish & doesn`t affect any plastic parts.
The key to this stuff is use small amounts & rinse pronto, don`leave any parts soaking & wonder off.
It will etch very quickly into all metals so don`t bugger up your stainless steel kitchen sink
It`s not to everyones liking & can quickly damage close fitting metal parts.
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Today we learnt that if you leave rubber bungs soaking in diesel they will swell up to 1.5 times there original size :o
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Today we learnt that if you leave rubber bungs soaking in diesel they will swell up to 1.5 times there original size :o
Whoops ::)
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Caustic chemicals are quite effective. :y
Probably more care has to be taken with the correct protection for the user.
Don`t let any onto your skin as it will burn & use a face mask etc.
Keep animals well out of the way & hose down any spills quickly
Small scale ie small amount of Harpic power plus (yes the toilet cleaner) in a jar.
paint onto say a scaled up carb bowl & work well into all areas with a stiff paint brush
Quickly Rinse in a bucket of cold water to neutralse any chemical
the speed that this stuff works is what I like & It`s also extrememly effective at removing petrol varnish & doesn`t affect any plastic parts.
The key to this stuff is use small amounts & rinse pronto, don`leave any parts soaking & wonder off.
It will etch very quickly into all metals so don`t bugger up your stainless steel kitchen sink
It`s not to everyones liking & can quickly damage close fitting metal parts.
Best avoided on aluminium, as a minimum it will dull the surface, worst case if left for a while there is bugger all left!
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Today we learnt that if you leave rubber bungs soaking in diesel they will swell up to 1.5 times there original size :o
True of any petroleum based fluid on standard rubber
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Today we learnt that if you leave rubber bungs soaking in diesel they will swell up to 1.5 times there original size :o
True of any petroleum based fluid on standard rubber
Ya live and learn ;D Fortunately not at great expense this time :D
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Today we learnt that if you leave rubber bungs soaking in diesel they will swell up to 1.5 times there original size :o
True of any petroleum based fluid on standard rubber
Ya live and learn ;D Fortunately not at great expense this time :D
Had a car with a strange servo operation once, carburettor unit and the one way valve in the vac pipe had failed.
The result was a nice fuel/air mix in the servo and a servo bladder about twice the size it should be
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:D
This afternoon the heads went back on, along with manifolds, lifters, push rods and rockers. It cranks by hand without any clonks so fingers crossed I might have done it right ::) :)
Tomorrow :
Oil pick up tube, sump, oil pipes, valley gasket, injector rail, inlet manf, dis packs... yeah it'll be a while yet ;D
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Despite packing the oil pump before reassembly it doesnt seem to want to prime; or at least there's no evidence at the rockers of any flow. Bugger.
Helpful suggestions?
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Taking out the dizzy and spinning the oil pump on an electric drill used to be the trick with these...
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Taking out the dizzy and spinning the oil pump on an electric drill used to be the trick with these...
Thanks. No Dizzy tho - Thor not Gems. It seems just cranking over on the starter (with no plugs/inj) isn't enough speed to pump oil to the rockers but the oil pressure light is going out so I'll carry on. Hopefully the mains aren't so worn that it can't get any flow to the heads :-\
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OK. If the oil light is going out there's a good chance it has at least primed the pump and you'll get pressure once it's started. :y
Could also remove the filter and check that it has filled the filter. If not, a crank with the filter off and a tray below it and check that some oil issues forth.
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OK. If the oil light is going out there's a good chance it has at least primed the pump and you'll get pressure once it's started. :y
Could also remove the filter and check that it has filled the filter. If not, a crank with the filter off and a tray below it and check that some oil issues forth.
Think I read somewhere the light goes out at ~9psi. So not totally void of flow.
I filled the filter beforehand to aid proceedings along. As well as filling as much as would go into the gauge port above the pressure switch. :y
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The later crank based oil pumps should self prime so check the pickup is on properly. It's also possible to use an oil can and feed oil I'm through one of the rocker shaft oil feed holes to get the upper galleries filled
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The later crank based oil pumps should self prime so check the pickup is on properly. It's also possible to use an oil can and feed oil I'm through one of the rocker shaft oil feed holes to get the upper galleries filled
Put the pickup back on myself so I'm happy with that. Are the rocker shaft oil feed holes supposed to point downwards?
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Got it fired up earlier, nearly literally when it transpired no4 injector o ring wasn't sealed to the fuel rail and started pissing petrol out :o
Not looking good for oil flow to the heads though :(