Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega Electrical and Audio Help => Topic started by: Chazza12 on 01 March 2017, 15:35:49
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I had my windscreen wipers on this morning and they don't seam as fast as the should be. they work but when on full speed they only seam to be a very little speed increase, were could the problem be, there is no clunking sounds and its a smooth movement across the screen just seam slow for the fasted speed.
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Depends what you're used to I guess... but carry out an electrical check as per the starting/charging guide just to be sure the alternator and battery are up to scratch as I would wager that you had the heater blower, headlights and heated rear window all on ;)
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The slow speed and fast speed of the motor is acheived by the motor itself not by any resistors in line or anything like that .it is done by having a fixed brush for the negative and two seperately positioned brushes for the slow and high speed.effectively feeding the motor commutator in two different places. If you put a voltmeter to the motor you should have a definate 12-14v on one wire when on slow and a definate 12-14v on another wire when on high speed.if these voltages check out ok then its a motor dismantle and check brushes/ clean comm job. Although a lubrication of all the arms, linkages, pivots is worth a try first
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But if it has to compete for current from a weak alternator then it will struggle on either speed ;)
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Wiper motors themselves are pretty bombproof on these :y
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Might be worth taking out the wiper mechanism (remove scuttle panel, then it's only about 4 self tappers and some wiggling and cursing IIRC.) and checking that the linkages move freely. Pop each ball joint off, clean them and give them a smear of fresh grease and check the wiper hubs rotate freely.
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Ive fitted an new battery and alternator last month, it was faster a few weeks back. ive had a look at the motor and it looks like there is a box where the wires go in. ? but i think i will have to change motor. i had a go at stopping the wipers with hand and it just stops, so if its bushes in the motor think they must be worn down. can you replace the bushes or will it be another motor ? its all greased up on the link joints.
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Time well tell..
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If the motors are reliable, as Doctor G suggested, then a quick trip to the breakers could be worthwhile; saves a lot of aggro trying to repair/refurbish your present one.
Ron.
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What he said ! . But also as mr gollum said check battery and alternator are working correct first. Then try a volt test at wiper motor plug and you should get similar. If all checks out a s/h motor could be the way to go. Might be able to get motor out with mechanism in place.centre spindle and 3 bolts if i recall ?
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Might be worth taking out the wiper mechanism (remove scuttle panel, then it's only about 4 self tappers and some wiggling and cursing IIRC.) and checking that the linkages move freely. Pop each ball joint off, clean them and give them a smear of fresh grease and check the wiper hubs rotate freely.
^^^ This!
If there are rusty water marks near the drivers side hub it'll need the above doing plus a good blast of wd40 / GT85 / equivalent on the hub then some proper lubricant when it moves freely.
I've had one seize up after going slower for a few days... not fun in the rain!
Watch out for scratching the drivers side wing when removing the wiper mechanism.
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i will have a look tomorrow. alternator is giving out 14.2 volts according to the meter reading, and not much drop in power when the motor is engaged, when back wiper comes on it drops more than front.. but rear motor was change a month ago as the nut snapped off when i dride to remove the arm as it was rusted up. that motor was off a 1999 model.
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Ive had battery checked and electrics checked at garage and says the motor is on its way out, so just ordered a full windscreen wiper unit £25. should be here in a few days, says its reconditioned old stock. so hopefully this works fine for the summer rain we be having. :D
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well i have the replacement unit, says with paper work its had new bushes fitted. 5.5mm 4.0mm 12.75mm. replaced bearings and ball cups. so packed the ball cups with some grease and fitted together. but was going to fit it to day(sat) but been bizzy at work so will have to be later today (sunday). as long as the weather is nice. :y
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The slow speed and fast speed of the motor is acheived by the motor itself not by any resistors in line or anything like that .it is done by having a fixed brush for the negative and two seperately positioned brushes for the slow and high speed.effectively feeding the motor commutator in two different places. If you put a voltmeter to the motor you should have a definate 12-14v on one wire when on slow and a definate 12-14v on another wire when on high speed.if these voltages check out ok then its a motor dismantle and check brushes/ clean comm job. Although a lubrication of all the arms, linkages, pivots is worth a try first
Thanks for that explanation, cam in head. I have often wondered why there were so many wires in the connector. I have had several failures with wiper motors and linkages, mainly annoying squeaks, easliy cured by changing wiper motor assemblies with spares harvested from scrapped Omegas. I have recently learned (thanks Nick W) to tape the offside wing to avoid paint damage.
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Yes its because if you put brushes onto the motor commutator(the copper segments) in different orientation to the magnets it will give a differnt speed hence why a twospeed motor has 3 brushes.1 fixed negative and two possible live positions.i suppose a three speed wiper would have 4 brushes .this is how the big old ac variable spped motors with the speed control lever work found in old mills.most modern stuff nowadays is a standard single speed motor but controllled by an inverter. Also a wiper motor will have the parking position wire to its plug as well hence many wires!.
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well not been able to do anthing yet as back slipped out and been beed ridden, just started to be able to move around so it will have to be next week. mrs has said that the engine light comes on somtimes. when i checked it before it said lambard sensor. its been doing it for weeks after cat was changed. only does it when the road is wet or if been stud for a few days then go for a drive. about 5 miles and it comes on but if you stop engine and start it again its gone out. does it need a new sensore ?or is it the plug ?
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I had something similar a couple of weeks ago when on holiday in Dorset, and thanks to the gents on here, it was diagnosed as inefficient cat = emission problem. After returning I dosed it with a bottle of Cataclean (Halfords, about £18) and gave it a 20-odd mile run and bingo - no light! It may just return, I am advised, and if it does, the lamda sensor will need to be moved, for which I will see Serek. :y 8) :y
Ron.
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I have a spare lambard sensore as it came with the car, it had the down pipe and cat change before i had the car somthing about cat was ripped open by a road bump. so they had a new exhaust fitted. i have a rear box aswell as it came with loads of spare parts. i will try the cat cleaner, it passed it co'2 test in jan but will give the cat cleaner ago. thanks. put it to the list of things i have to do when back up and around fully. all cos i lifted a 50" plasma tv to fix it.... and a had to put other jobs on hold as have 4 more customers wanting there tv's fixed. :'( :'(
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Its probably the fact that if one cat was changed or even both that the new cats dont work anywhere as good as the original gm ones or the first pre cat anyway and it seems the only solution is to move the downstream sensors to after the main cats.cleaner may well work for you as may a good motorway run with good quality fuel but it didnt for me .i tried various methods like in line resistors,capacitors,diode etc on the sensor output but didnt last .after moving sensors all been fine.