Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: terry paget on 16 April 2017, 07:42:06
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I hve just replaced my daughter's winter tyres with summer tyres. One wheel was rusted on to the hub and I could not shift it. I replaced the wheel nuts, left them half a turn loose, went for a 3 mile drive and tried again. Then they were loose and came off OK. But what would I have done with a puncture?
It must be a common problem for AA men. What's their trick?
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Firstly, the reason a wheel rusts on to a hub, is bad maintenance, eg not putting copper-slip on to the hub' face.
To remove a seized wheel/hub, club hammer n block of wood, on commercial's, either a sledge hammer or 20tonne porta power.
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I used to beat them off with a length of 4x2. That means you don't have to get under the car, and can get a good swing. I only had to drive the car once when this technique failed.
This really ought to be done with the car on axle stands, a trolleyjack was the usual support roadside. Do NOT try this with the car on a standard folding Jack! And leave a couple of wheel bolts loosely screwed in.
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I used to beat them off with a length of 4x2. That means you don't have to get under the car, and can get a good swing. I only had to drive the car once when this technique failed.
This really ought to be done with the car on axle stands, a trolleyjack was the usual support roadside. Do NOT try this with the car on a standard folding Jack! And leave a couple of wheel bolts loosely screwed in.
I used all sorts. Generally a rawhide hammer and a couple of good swings did the job.
As for leaving nuts on... You only send the wheel flying once before you learn that :-X ::)
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The broken teeth and crooked nose serve as a reminder. :D ;D
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I've always loosened bolts, wheelspun forwards, then slammed on anchors.
All my cars see a smear of coppaslip to prevent this.
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Thanks for all advice. Henceforth I shall always grease the hubs on wheel fitting, after 60 years of bad practice..
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Thanks for all advice. Henceforth I shall always grease the hubs on wheel fitting, after 60 years of bad practice..
I was learned, if in doubt grease it, or hit it.
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Just down to poor servicing. Seen a few cars that have been "serviced" at main dealers from new with stuck on wheels.
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Thanks for all advice. Henceforth I shall always grease the hubs on wheel fitting, after 60 years of bad practice..
Wire brush(I use a cup brush on a cordless angle grinder because I'm lazy) the grot off the hubs and scotchbrite the wheels first. You only need a smear of copperslip.
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I used to beat them off with a length of 4x2.
That's Opti's technique on singles night...
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Thanks for all advice. Henceforth I shall always grease the hubs on wheel fitting, after 60 years of bad practice..
The problem is modern cars are all alloy, not steel, and you get a chemical reaction due to dissimilar metais.
Clean up the wheel (and the hub, to a lesser extent), smear a whisker of copaslip (the Molyslip stuff, not the fake stuff). I then rotate wheel on hub a couple of times both ways, just to ensure its fully covered.
Job jobbed.
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Thanks for all advice. Henceforth I shall always grease the hubs on wheel fitting, after 60 years of bad practice..
Wire brush(I use a cup brush on a cordless angle grinder because I'm lazy) the grot off the hubs and scotchbrite the wheels first. You only need a smear of copperslip.
^^^^ What he says ^^^^
(Must learn to read all answer before replying :-[)
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I doubt if tyre shops grease the hubs before fitting the wheels.
Come to think of it, all my earlier cars had protruding wheel screws attached to the hubs. Fitting a wheel consisted of popping the wheel over the screws and fixing it with wheel nuts. I think my first car with wheel screws was a Senator.
I find steel wheels easy to fit on Omegas, but alloy wheels trickier 'cos I cannot easily see the threaded holes through the wheels, nor engage the screws in the threads with my fingers. I use a head torch and a 17mm box spanner.
My sister has just changed her Meriva for a Mokka. I inspected it, and pointed out she has no spare wheel, just a pot of porridge and a small electric pump. I wished her well with that.
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I doubt if tyre shops grease the hubs before fitting the wheels.
Or a torque wrench ;)
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I doubt if tyre shops grease the hubs before fitting the wheels.
Or a torque wrench ;)
They often do, but don't seem to realise that their windy gun is set way way higher than the torque wrench ???
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I find steel wheels easy to fit on Omegas, but alloy wheels trickier 'cos I cannot easily see the threaded holes through the wheels, nor engage the screws in the threads with my fingers. I use a head torch and a 17mm box spanner.
What you need is a 100mm length of 12mm bar with a short length of M12x1.5 thread on one end. You hang the wheel off it, and replace it with the bolt having fitted the other four. Big Audis and some Peugeots have them in the toolkit.
PM me your address Terry, and I'll send you one.
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I find steel wheels easy to fit on Omegas, but alloy wheels trickier 'cos I cannot easily see the threaded holes through the wheels, nor engage the screws in the threads with my fingers. I use a head torch and a 17mm box spanner.
What you need is a 100mm length of 12mm bar with a short length of M12x1.5 thread on one end. You hang the wheel off it, and replace it with the bolt having fitted the other four. Big Audis and some Peugeots have them in the toolkit.
PM me your address Terry, and I'll send you one.
Thanks Nick. PM sent
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Dead blow hammer with one bolt wound in a couple of threads. Smash the living shit out of the back of the rim. Avoiding the tyre.
This method has never failed. Though I remember a BMW that put up some mighty resistance. All of those require dead blow persuasion.
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Dead blow. Is that what happened to your head? ;D
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Dead blow. Is that what happened to your head? ;D
Yeah didn't take much ;D
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Dead blow hammer with one bolt wound in a couple of threads. Smash the living shit out of the back of the rim. Avoiding the tyre.
This method has never failed. Though I remember a BMW that put up some mighty resistance. All of those require dead blow persuasion.
There's a man who's never owned Irmscher wheel ;D
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Dead blow hammer with one bolt wound in a couple of threads. Smash the living shit out of the back of the rim. Avoiding the tyre.
This method has never failed. Though I remember a BMW that put up some mighty resistance. All of those require dead blow persuasion.
There's a man who's never owned Irmscher wheel ;D
Can't see a 19" BMW wheel being too chuffed about that either... ;D
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Nah. DB hammer (which is rubber). Works on everything
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Nah. DB hammer (which is rubber). Works on everything
Trust me, it WOULD knacker most Irmscher wheels. I buckled one (MFL MV6 standard one) just with a massive understeer moment.
A rubber mallet would distort most of them.
If I caught any garage using a mallet on any of my alloy wheels (esp the Irmscher ones), I'd be using the mallet on their head.
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Nah. DB hammer (which is rubber). Works on everything
Trust me, it WOULD knacker most Irmscher wheels. I buckled one (MFL MV6 standard one) just with a massive understeer moment.
A rubber mallet would distort most of them.
If I caught any garage using a mallet on any of my alloy wheels (esp the Irmscher ones), I'd be using the mallet on their head.
What's different about these irmscher alloys in particular? By your description they sound completely unfit for the purpose of being an alloy wheel!
This isn't a "I know best" discussion. But I do this almost every day. Not one problem in the three years I've been there.
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Nah. DB hammer (which is rubber). Works on everything
Trust me, it WOULD knacker most Irmscher wheels. I buckled one (MFL MV6 standard one) just with a massive understeer moment.
A rubber mallet would distort most of them.
If I caught any garage using a mallet on any of my alloy wheels (esp the Irmscher ones), I'd be using the mallet on their head.
What's different about these irmscher alloys in particular? By your description they sound completely unfit for the purpose of being an alloy wheel!
This isn't a "I know best" discussion. But I do this almost every day. Not one problem in the three years I've been there.
Like anything Irmscher make, I would agree, they are barely fit for purpose.
And, honestly, without any shadow of a doubt, using a mallet on either a MFL MV6 wheel (not that there are any about nowadays, they were that bad) or an Irmscher Sportstar 18" would distort the rim. First hit.
Hence other methods needed for these (and, TBH, a lot of high end large alloys now) if the owner has been too lazy to maintain the car. Also, hence, if I caught a garage doing it to TBE or the pussy cat (don't give 2 stuffs about battlebus, and the alloys look robust on that), I would be doing the same to the technicians' face ;D
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Ok my bad I thought u were talking bout all cars' wheels.
So these irmscher ones. If u malleted if you'd see the distortion by eye? That's quite scary for owners of such things
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The 17" alloys fitted to Brabus Smart Roadster's are the same ..... you can buckle them with a med/hard Paddington stare ;)
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Ok my bad I thought u were talking bout all cars' wheels.
So these irmscher ones. If u malleted if you'd see the distortion by eye? That's quite scary for owners of such things
A lot of high end wheels are like that now. Obviously, not your run of the mill 10yr old Astra ones.
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I find steel wheels easy to fit on Omegas, but alloy wheels trickier 'cos I cannot easily see the threaded holes through the wheels, nor engage the screws in the threads with my fingers. I use a head torch and a 17mm box spanner.
What you need is a 100mm length of 12mm bar with a short length of M12x1.5 thread on one end. You hang the wheel off it, and replace it with the bolt having fitted the other four. Big Audis and some Peugeots have them in the toolkit.
PM me your address Terry, and I'll send you one.
Another message sent, Nick.