Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: Entwood on 14 May 2017, 11:57:12
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Got things well apart but the "inner race" of the bearing has remained behind, firmly fixed to the axle shaft .. heat has not moved it, can't see a way of getting an angle grinder onto it to cut a "slot" to try and prise it off ... so looking for hints/tips/ideas please .. :(
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Drill as big a hole as possible in the widest part of the race, then split it with a cold chisel and BFH.
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Drill as big a hole as possible in the widest part of the race, then split it with a cold chisel and BFH.
OK .. off to try this method .. ta muchly .. :)
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Ta muchly .. now off .. :) Not quite your way as none of my drills would touch it, but you gave me an idea ... angle grinder parallel to the back plate .. much more room .. cut a wideish "slot" then split the thing .. gurt lump broke off at the back, gave a "lip"on which to use cold chisel and lump hammer to bang it around and work it loose ... took a bit of doing and I have some nice bruises on the back of my hand .. but its of ! :)
So thanks again :)
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A nudge in the right direction was all you needed :y
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All done bar the visit to the garage for final tightening tomorrow :)
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I had one split like that once, so it's not the evil Sky Gods picking on just you, Mr Entwood :y
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You seem to have gone through more than your fair share of wheel bearings on this car Nige :-\
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Out of interest.... could you get a small cut off wheel in the area should the race stay attached? Struggling to picture what's "in the way" to stop you cutting it then smacking with a chisel? :-\
I tend to cut across at an angle. Plus the only time I couldn't get access was when this happened on a rear set up. And the handbrake shoes were in the way. Disassembled them n job done
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Out of interest.... could you get a small cut off wheel in the area should the race stay attached? Struggling to picture what's "in the way" to stop you cutting it then smacking with a chisel? :-\
I tend to cut across at an angle. Plus the only time I couldn't get access was when this happened on a rear set up. And the handbrake shoes were in the way. Disassembled them n job done
How small is small ... my angle grinder is 4.5 inches .... so the back plate of the hub got in the way of cutting the race at 90 degrees, and at about 45 degrees the risk of damaging the shaft was very high. So the "parallel cut" option then a smack with the chisel to snap a bit off worked .. then the chisel on the "edge" of the break to knock the remains around worked .. could then work it loose by knocking around whilst levering from behind the "unbroken" bit .. if that makes any sense .... :)
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😂😂😂😂 yeah I think I got ya nige 🤔🤔🤔😂😂😂
I got a 3" cut off wheel on an air line so hopefully that'll fit in (think I need a osf bearing 👍)
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Doc Gollum said I was insane to change the knuckle to replace a failed ABS sensor when I could so easily have whipped off the hub and popped in a new ABS sensor as in your guide. I acknowledged my error and agreed that my way I also had to reset camber and toe-in.
Would this reluctant inner race complicate the ABS job?
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Doc Gollum said I was insane to change the knuckle to replace a failed ABS sensor when I could so easily have whipped off the hub and popped in a new ABS sensor as in your guide. I acknowledged my error and agreed that my way I also had to reset camber and toe-in.
Would this reluctant inner race complicate the ABS job?
In a word .. yes .. :)
The ABS sensor lies behind the toothed section of the bearing hub, so to remove the sensor as in my guide you have to remove the hub/bearing .. if it fell apart like mine did it means a new hub/bearing which adds to the cost, and significantly to the time taken.
I, initially, thought the bearing failure may have been induced by the removal to allow the ABS sensor change ... but that was the other wheel ... so I still don't know why this bearing failed ... :(
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They wear out over time braking upto junctions loads them unevenly, moreso if your loaded/towing...
Luck of the draw as to when they fail, but it is when rather than if, equally, no rhyme or reason the whether the inner race separates or not. Have had both outcomes on the same stub axle...
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Doc Gollum said I was insane to change the knuckle to replace a failed ABS sensor when I could so easily have whipped off the hub and popped in a new ABS sensor as in your guide. I acknowledged my error and agreed that my way I also had to reset camber and toe-in.
Would this reluctant inner race complicate the ABS job?
In a word .. yes .. :)
The ABS sensor lies behind the toothed section of the bearing hub, so to remove the sensor as in my guide you have to remove the hub/bearing .. if it fell apart like mine did it means a new hub/bearing which adds to the cost, and significantly to the time taken.
I, initially, thought the bearing failure may have been induced by the removal to allow the ABS sensor change ... but that was the other wheel ... so I still don't know why this bearing failed ... :(
Nige, surely, if the bearing is being removed for ABS sensor replacement and the bearing is OK, the fact the bearing race stays in place matters not as you can get access to the ABS sensor with it still there?
Then refit the hub onto the race which is still present (as the inner race is a split race)
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Doc Gollum said I was insane to change the knuckle to replace a failed ABS sensor when I could so easily have whipped off the hub and popped in a new ABS sensor as in your guide. I acknowledged my error and agreed that my way I also had to reset camber and toe-in.
Would this reluctant inner race complicate the ABS job?
In a word .. yes .. :)
The ABS sensor lies behind the toothed section of the bearing hub, so to remove the sensor as in my guide you have to remove the hub/bearing .. if it fell apart like mine did it means a new hub/bearing which adds to the cost, and significantly to the time taken.
I, initially, thought the bearing failure may have been induced by the removal to allow the ABS sensor change ... but that was the other wheel ... so I still don't know why this bearing failed ... :(
Nige, surely, if the bearing is being removed for ABS sensor replacement and the bearing is OK, the fact the bearing race stays in place matters not as you can get access to the ABS sensor with it still there?
Then refit the hub onto the race which is still present (as the inner race is a split race)
I see what you mean .. but I would have thought it was not good practice to refit a "split" bearing as it is not actually designed to come apart ??. There must be a high risk of some sort of contamination of either the ball race itself or the bearing surface which "might" lead to premature failure and require the job doing a "second" time ??
"If" I was doing the ABS sensor again (and I seriously hope never again) and the bearing split I would fit a new one.... but that's just me being over cautious perhaps ... :-\ :-\
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There certainly easy enough to take apart (you can probably pull the race from anew one).
I guess contamination is possible but, if your being careful then should not be a huge issue. :y
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Doc Gollum said I was insane to change the knuckle to replace a failed ABS sensor when I could so easily have whipped off the hub and popped in a new ABS sensor as in your guide. I acknowledged my error and agreed that my way I also had to reset camber and toe-in.
Would this reluctant inner race complicate the ABS job?
In a word .. yes .. :)
The ABS sensor lies behind the toothed section of the bearing hub, so to remove the sensor as in my guide you have to remove the hub/bearing .. if it fell apart like mine did it means a new hub/bearing which adds to the cost, and significantly to the time taken.
I, initially, thought the bearing failure may have been induced by the removal to allow the ABS sensor change ... but that was the other wheel ... so I still don't know why this bearing failed ... :(
Nige, surely, if the bearing is being removed for ABS sensor replacement and the bearing is OK, the fact the bearing race stays in place matters not as you can get access to the ABS sensor with it still there?
Then refit the hub onto the race which is still present (as the inner race is a split race)
I suppose thinking about it this wouldn't be an issue if all u want is access to the abs sensor. Is there anybody out there who has removed a bearing hub assembly and then bolted it back on butted up against the old race that's stuck on the shaft?
I personally wouldn't. You're in there. Cut it. Chisel it. Remove race. Stick new bearing on.