Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Webby the Bear on 19 May 2017, 20:40:53
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I say technician in the loosest possible sense ;D
Anyway been wanting to put a diary of my jobs at work for a while and not got round to it. However today is that day :)
I really enjoy this job. Yes it can be really really f.....g frustrating at times. But when you get through the tough jobs you feel like a man (as opposed to my old job where I shuffled paper round a desk).
You may see a theme with this diary. We've all got to a point where we are quite competitive with labour times. I love this. It's like an unwritten target. I know there are garages out there that have systems where you clock on / clock off jobs and you're given an "efficiency". Being a small independent garage we don't have this.
So there's one job I did a while ago now but it was lovely to do and lots of labour time 8) and i remembered to take photos so we will kick off with this and I'll then get on to today...
13 plate Astra J. LOTS of oil in the coolant. Spoke to Vauxhall and they have a very large amount of oil coolers they sell for this reason. I'm sure lots on here will be familiar with the v6 oil cooler failing. But this was a lot easier imo.
So to the job. Exhaust manifold removed. 8 or so nuts holding it on and three nuts affixing the cat to the centre section. And of course only being 4 years old thee was no rust in sight so they came off with ease. Once removed we see the oil cooler directly behind it......
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0025_zpso8jxwxg4.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0025_zpso8jxwxg4.jpg.html)
There are a few securing bolts. A pipe that runs in to the back of the water pump. And the oil filter housing is all part of this unit. The unit removed....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0026_zpsdyrp8cmx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0026_zpsdyrp8cmx.jpg.html)
The oil cooler itself bolts to this whole assembly (pictured removed in bottom right corner) and this gasket sealing it was fubar'd.
New gasket. New cooler (seen in pic). And all put back together. Coolant bled up and jobs a good 'un.
This may be controversial (I don't really care, it worked!) l cleaned the header tank and got as much shit out as possible. With the new coolant I stuck in 1/4 bottle of fairy liquid. The customer came back the following week for a full flush. And he was then sent off with a clean system and no oil in the coolant. Ahhhh that was a good job.
Anyways not to rest on ones laurels that brings us to today.....
For starters. MOT repairs on this dog...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0028_zpsapavpnsq.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0028_zpsapavpnsq.jpg.html)
2 coil springs, exhaust (done by someone else yesterday as it was my day off) and a reg. plate bulb holder.
Springs on these motors are about as easy as springs get. 3 x securing nuts on the strut tower with excellent access. Remove clip securing brake line to strut. Remove upper drop link nut. And then remove pinch bolt securing strut to the knuckle. I'm sure when Mr Haynes removes a strut on this car he undoes the bottom ball joint and removes drive shaft from the hub and THEN taps the knuckle down to free strut from its location in the knuckle. Well f..k that ;D copper hammer and minding the ABS sensor force the knuckle down and out pops your strut :y
As you can see this spring was nackered.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0029_zps2chlvkjz.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0029_zps2chlvkjz.jpg.html)
In this instance when the strut is putting zero tension on the spring I cut them. And in this particular case I was able to actually turn the spring and it moved its way down the strut and I just cut the pig tail to free it. Lovely jubbly :y
New spring mounted in compressor....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0030_zpsu3muajpz.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0030_zpsu3muajpz.jpg.html)
A lot of the times you put the nut on and gun it up but the whole thing will spin with the shaft and won't tighten. In this instance I get the nut on by hand a few threads, release most of the compression from the, err, compressor. This puts tension on the spring vision the top mount and the bottom seating bit of the strut. And 9 times out of 10 your nut will tighten. If it doesn't I use unapproved OOF methods ;D
This is a great little tip when reassembling. Stick a fekking great chisel in the pinch part of the knuckle and make it slightly wider. Obviously don't go psycho. But the strut will slide in like butter...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0031_zps9q95npby.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0031_zps9q95npby.jpg.html)
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I forgot to mention I had to do the 2 wheel tracking on this dog.
While it was on the ramp I took the opportunity to freedom the lock nuts. I find that the nuts most of the time come loose from the track rod end but the hardest part is getting the nut to move independently of the track rod. I like it to be like butter so I often brake out the fire...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0032_zpsbjhurvlz.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0032_zpsbjhurvlz.jpg.html)
Having one hand and heating up a jam nut whilst photographing it was a bit of a sod ;D but I held the flame with my arm whilst taking that photo with my right ;D
This torch can easily be beaten. We don't have oxy asceteline (spell check) but I usually find that this works. It just takes a few minutes if they're really frozen. :y
So that's 2 hours labour and tracking. I then full serviced a corsa d. Nice n easy. That 3.5 hours with the tracking. I worked my lunch to get a bit of overtime 8) and then did an interim service on a 3008 Peugeot hybrid. I ain't going to bother taking photos of servicing but I felt the need to with this. Look at the stupid position of this canister oil filter... >:(
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0033_zpsslzyeaoh.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0033_zpsslzyeaoh.jpg.html)
That is a long extension on my oil filter claw and you can't even see it it's that buried >:( only after I got the old one off and the new one did I realise that the oil filler pipe inc. the cap (in photo) unclips and when that's moved out the way you got a nice bit of access 😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩 ;D ;D ;D ;D live n learn :y ps, I'm presuming those orange wires are bolted to the alternator for the electric power. Didn't really have time to look in to it. That was another hour :y
So next job. Bit odd but nice and easy. Fiat Brava (or bravo :-\). There's a plate at the side of the cylinder head and at the back of the cams. Secured with 5 nuts on studs. Was leaking oil. And the RAC man tried to fix it and decided to break one of the studs >:(
I removed the plate and saw that the stud still had a bit to grab on to. Got the grips and luckily it turned and came out after a while of turning. Fitted new stud using the "2 nut method " 8) sealed gasket to the plate using GSFs finest "sealing jizm" and slapped it back on. Topped up the oil. Job jobbed. The plate....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0034_zpshpinhwjm.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0034_zpshpinhwjm.jpg.html)
Sorry fir the crap photo but if anyone can tell me why there is this plate I'd be grateful as I'm a curious bear. Is it perhaps to get a rear cam lock tool in or summat :-\
At this point I'd have been happy to pack up my tools n go home. But not to be. I replaced a track rod and end on a Megan of 05 vintage. Sadly I forgot to take photos. But did that and got it tracked up. And then that was it. Although there was still enough time for a ghastly sight to rear its ugly head.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0035_zpsv8vdvoph.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0035_zpsv8vdvoph.jpg.html)
I think Martin would be all over this ;D
That's in for MOT tomorrow. Along with some services. A wishbone on an MGTF. I'm steering well clear of that as I saw how rusty it is and I believe there are captive nuts inside the subframe holding the bolts in. I'm a wise old bear 8) ;D
Hope u enjoyed this interlude. I enjoy recording my efforts. And it's nice to share. Any questions, hints or tips feel free to let me know :y
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I remember the days when you asked inquisitive question after inquisitive question, genuinely trying to build up your knowledge bank. Now you are doing it for a living and obviously enjoying it.
Fair play to you young man. :y
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I remember the days when you asked inquisitive question after inquisitive question, genuinely trying to build up your knowledge bank. Now you are doing it for a living and obviously enjoying it.
Fair play to you young man. :y
Haha. Thanks mate. I remember too. I found an old thread on here of mine. I was panicking and losing my shit over an air filter ;D
:y :y
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With any Hybrid, don't touch anything bright Orange ;) Playing with the HV Hybrid electric system will make your hair stand on end :o ::) :D
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Nah I know very little about them anyway so oil changes and brakes is about my limit on them ;D
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Hats off to you Webby. I remember you embarking on this chapter.
There is a lot of job satisfaction doing work on vehicles. I dont think i could ever have done it for a living. Mine was always a matter of money as i couldnt afford to pay someone else.
Those heady days of Haynes manual "remove nut and seperate ball joint then..." twenty years of none removal equals lots of hammering.
I remember the first gearbox i took to bits. The manual didnt mention the three spring loaded ball bearings . Took ages to find one. Then reassembly how do you pop three back in 120 degrees apart!
It is really great that you are enjoying your job. Long may it continue. It would be interesting to know who pays when thngs go wrong!
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Thanks varche. We all have our favourite jobs. Mine is definitely not clutches / GB removals. Let alone stripping them and rebuilding. I did that in college and didn't enjoy it then! ;D
I like what we call "the cream". Good money earners. Lots of labour. And relatively quick jobs. I'd rather do 20 different jobs than two days spent on one. But that's preference I suppose. :y
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With any Hybrid, don't touch anything bright Orange ;) Playing with the HV Hybrid electric system will make your hair stand on end :o ::) :D
Yes,I went on a course about Toyota Prius and the Honda insight years ago and learnt enough to know to stay away ::) :-\
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With any Hybrid, don't touch anything bright Orange ;) Playing with the HV Hybrid electric system will make your hair stand on end :o ::) :D
Yes,I went on a course about Toyota Prius and the Honda insight years ago and learnt enough to know to stay away ::) :-\
Must say, any fuel drain on a hybrid is a right royal pita because you need to force it onto the petrol engine to flush and start it ::) Then there's the electric gubbins to work around too! ::)
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Good stuff Webby, interesting reading :y
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I too recall your questions and thread on your learning curve.Well done for knowing want you wanted and going all out for it :y I'll certainly be reading your workshop "diary".Who knows one day it might be the setting up of The Bears Garage :)
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So then boys. I didn't bother taking any pics on Saturday. 3 full services. However, one of the services was on a Mazda6 and I thought folk would be interested in the most retarded service light reset in the history of such things 😂😂😂😂😂
The procedure is...
Ignition on.
Stick a piece of wire or paper clip or whatever in the following hole which is located in the fuse box in engine bay.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0039_zpswl2dlulg.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0039_zpswl2dlulg.jpg.html)
Then touch the piece of wire to ground (the batt. neg. is right next to it so nice n handy).
Whilst keeping it held to ground someone has to press the accelerator 5 times.
Ignition off.
Honestly I do wonder about the sanity of car designers at times 8)
So to today...
Before we get started this bad boy rocked up for MOT...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0037_zpsnmzkriqw.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0037_zpsnmzkriqw.jpg.html)
Exige of 2014 vintage. This motor has a beautiful roar :y
Again as per Saturday I was servicing all day :'( except I fitted an anti roll bar link to a 2013 Megane Sport. And I wanted to share the way I remove them.....
Basically knowing that it's getting replaced (and therefore it doesn't matter if I destroy it) I grip the ball joint with my Irwin vice grips and try and buzz the nut off with my impact. Now I mention they're Irwin because they're the best grips I've ever used and honestly I own about ten pairs of shit grips. And they're cheap for a reason. They wouldn't hold the ball joint tight enough. So just a little tip.
Anyways if I get the slightest bit of trouble and it doesn't come apart immediately I do this......
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0038_zpscxwdzzuc.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0038_zpscxwdzzuc.jpg.html)
Note the vice grip trick worked on the left hand ball joint (in the photo) but the other didn't. I break out the cut off wheel and depending on access I either cut the nut straight off. Or cut the link end and the grind it down til its non existent ;D
Anyway with ARB links 9.9 times out of 10 the new nuts will tighten up without having to stop the thread from spinning. However today's one decided to spin on me ::) but because it's a new one the Allen head is preserved and I simply hold it with the Allen (most are 5mm) and use a ratchet spanner (or "gear wrench" as AndyB prefers 😁😁😁) to tighten it up.
Tomorrow should be a better update. Got a potential calliper on an mx5 with front discs and pads. A front spring on an Astra. Another ArB link. More brakes. And something else I've forgotten ;D
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.....as well as the usual servicing.
Ooooooh and an AC regas :) :) :)
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Wow, that Mazda service light.. How unpractical can you make it :D
Compared to any Citroen/Pug, where it's just holding down the trip button and turn the ignition on for 10 sec. How it should be :y
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Note the vice grip trick worked on the left hand ball joint (in the photo) but the other didn't. I break out the cut off wheel and depending on access I either cut the nut straight off. Or cut the link end and the grind it down til its non existent ;D
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I give the nut one chance to come off peacefully ::) using vice grips to hold the ball joint end and if it acts the arse I centre pop the nut in two or three places about 3mm apart, pilot drill all three dots, up the drill size on each hole until they almost meet up. I then use a small sharp chisel to split the nut. As you can tell I don't own a nut splitter. ::)
Whole process only takes a few minutes and saves me grinding things that don't need grinding. ;D
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As for the service light reset, I'd imagine any decent commercial code reader would make it a breeze....
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I give the nut one chance to come off peacefully ::) using vice grips to hold the ball joint end and if it acts the arse I centre pop the nut in two or three places about 3mm apart, pilot drill all three dots, up the drill size on each hole until they almost meet up. I then use a small sharp chisel to split the nut. As you can tell I don't own a nut splitter. ::)
Whole process only takes a few minutes and saves me grinding things that don't need grinding. ;D
Takes me longer to get the cordless angle-grinder than it does to lop the offending nut off.
I've been landed with the job of replacing all of the coolant/fuel/oil hoses on an auto-gyro; two days so far, and the fuel tanks had to some out to do the fuel hoses. Or the fuel filter(a service part!), or the battery :o It's not helped by some of the outrageously expensive parts not fitting.
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As for the service light reset, I'd imagine any decent commercial code reader would make it a breeze....
You're right. We have a Strap-on summat or other. But that's not very interesting to talk about ;D
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Note the vice grip trick worked on the left hand ball joint (in the photo) but the other didn't. I break out the cut off wheel and depending on access I either cut the nut straight off. Or cut the link end and the grind it down til its non existent ;D
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I give the nut one chance to come off peacefully ::) using vice grips to hold the ball joint end and if it acts the arse I centre pop the nut in two or three places about 3mm apart, pilot drill all three dots, up the drill size on each hole until they almost meet up. I then use a small sharp chisel to split the nut. As you can tell I don't own a nut splitter. ::)
Whole process only takes a few minutes and saves me grinding things that don't need grinding. ;D
YZ everything needs cutting ;D
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So to day 3. Or 4? :-\
;D
So got to work very early today to do some over time 8) when we are snowed under and a man down I can generally speaking do all the overtime I can cram in.
However today was busy cos as well as the work on the motors we also in a week or two have new owners of the unit next door. Now the unit next door is also a garage. But we've always got on really well and most importantly we've never been in competition with them; their main work is body work. Let's also just say they have a very different client base to ours :-X ;D
The new guys coming in are going to carry on with the body work but I've heard they're also going to be very aggressive with their marketing campaign. This shouldn't be a problem as thee are already lots of garages in our area. And we already have a very happy (hopefully) and loyal customer base. However I've had a word with the owner and we have been reactive in advertising the cheapest AC regas in Northampton (to my knowledge) at £27.50 inc. VAT. The adverts went out yesterday and already got 3 bookings. That'll keep me busy....as I'm the only one with the papers to do it ::)
So the whole point of me telling you this is that I came in early doors to get a service done and dusted before we even opened....while head mech and monkey nuts the apprentice were hard at work giving our car park and workshop a bit of TLC to be as professional as we can be...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0040_zpsdt61lf5l.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0040_zpsdt61lf5l.jpg.html)
So as said I got the service done on the Peugeot 207 (an interim service which is basically full inspection, air filter and oil/filter change). A couple of bulbs and a tyre. Lovely Jubbly. 1 hours labour before the doors are even open 8)
I was hoping to do the Mazda brakes / sort the binding issue as I mentioned yesterday. But it didn't go to plan. I then full serviced a 12 plate Polo. By far the easiest service you'll ever do. :y 1.5 hours.
I then booked in a guy for a regas who wanted it doing in half hour. No problem Sir :y
I didn't take any photos of the AC lines hooked up (I clean forgot :-[). However her is our AC machine. Pleas don't laugh ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0047_zpsl5aofgqb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0047_zpsl5aofgqb.jpg.html)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0048_zpsakje2aep.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0048_zpsakje2aep.jpg.html)
Now we got this thing off eBay many moons ago. And when I did my exam the tester told me then it was a museum piece ;D
However it still works so all is good for now.
In the first pic you can see the big blue tank called the machine tank. As I'm sure you can work out this has the refrigerant in it. Just to the back of it is the PAG oil. The little red star thing is the oil drain (to drain any oil captured when you do a recovery). And finally the lines (ref for high pressure line, blue for low pressure line).
In the second pic is where you see the dials (showing the pressures in the system) and the valves to open the LP and HP lines.
I won't bore you with a full instruction manual but a brief procedure is as follows:
Attach lines on the machine to the ports on the car (I'm sure you've all seen them...obviously take caps off first ;D).
Open the valves and press 'R' to recover what's already in the system in the car. Most of the time there's not much comes out.... the reason they need a regas usually ::)
Once that's done press 'V' to put the system on a vacuum. Takes 15 minutes.
Then add oil using the knob above the PAG oil bottle. Then let it sit for another 10-15 minutes and observe the pressures. The needles on the dials should stay buried down if it's holding a vacuum.
If it does it's ready to charge.
Press 'C' for charge. Enter amount (found on Autodata or in a sticker somewhere under the bonnet). You also have to add an extra 100g as that's what will stay in the lines.
Detach the lines.
Press recover again and this will take out all the refrigerant stuck in the lines.
Turn the AC on and make sure it is freezing :) :) :) that's 30 minutes labour 8)
So as if my day of servicing seemed to be never ending I did another interim service on a 2001 Golf. Right old shite box! When I drained the oil I reckon a litre came out :o another hour gained 8)
Final job of the day on a 2008 Neesarn Micra.....
NSF coil spring
Front pads
Set of wiper blades (standard, non-aero)
So to the spring, a really nice easy one. Two bolts securing strut to the knuckle. Remove brake hose clip and brake hose pops out. Remove ABS wiring from strut. And then the drop link ;D
Classic example of what I mentioned yesterday. Gun it first to see if I get lucky. And then 5mm Allen key to stop it spinning and use an AndyB wrench to remove the nut....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0043_zpsdxocjapx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0043_zpsdxocjapx.jpg.html)
Here's a pic of why we are replacing it.... (MOT failure)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0042_zpsffageyj6.jpg)[/URL
(http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0042_zpsffageyj6.jpg.html)
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One quick note on removing broken springs. Because the spring is broken it reduces the length of the spring. If it's reduced the length enough you'll never grab enough coils in the spring compressor to be able to get it compressed enough to get the nut off. What I do this situation is put the bottom of the strut where you'd normally grab a coil. Compress. And buzz nut off but this CAN be scary. I wrap 3 bungee cords around the strut and compressor if I ever have doubts. And it does work!
This spring was also easy because there was total access to the strut securing bolts. I.e. On some other cars the strut tower is under the scuttle panel and that has to be removed just for access to this PITA. Peugeot 307 estate comes to mind. Oh and the stupid and shite Merivas.
So brake pads. Probably my favourite job. Not sure why.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0044_zpsxwi4mmf9.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0044_zpsxwi4mmf9.jpg.html)
Thanks to Kevin Wood for recommending this wind back tool about 5 years ago ;D I still use it today. I find it a lot easier than big water pump pliers. Especially as some calipers can be really stiff.
Old pads....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0045_zps3im6qiy3.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0045_zps3im6qiy3.jpg.html)
New pads....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0046_zps2flycfrw.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0046_zps2flycfrw.jpg.html)
Ive said this many times but we use Vetech pads. We've only ever had one set come back for warranty. And they're very reasonably priced.
Anyway that was today. Ended up with 6.5 hours labour as well as a couple of hours office work. So all in all a good but tiring day :y
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Are you sure it's professional to take a leak against the bushes ;D ;D
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One quick note on removing broken springs. Because the spring is broken it reduces the length of the spring. If it's reduced the length enough you'll never grab enough coils in the spring compressor to be able to get it compressed enough to get the nut off. What I do this situation is put the bottom of the strut where you'd normally grab a coil. Compress. And buzz nut off but this CAN be scary. I wrap 3 bungee cords around the strut and compressor if I ever have doubts. And it does work!
This LINK (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rnz65M4OYys)looks like a pretty good use for half an hour and some scrap. Way better than the weedy spring compressors that most people struggle with.
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I've seen that video Nick - it's genius, I reckon.
Webby - :y
This reminds me that I could do with doing oil & filter on the BMW before taking it to France next month (which leaves me .. this week and next) and I'm suffering a high degree of "CBA". Do I take a trip to see Webby or do I take it to Autobarn who did the wishbones and have them see why there's a knocking noise at the front at the same time.. :-[ ;D
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Nick. That's actual genius.
Aaron. Come to us obviously ::) ;D we can also find out where the noise is coming from. And you can be sure of discount. I'll write "OOF discount" on the invoice to properly confuse the accountant ;D
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Nick. That's actual genius.
It's certainly simple, effective, safe, quick and cheap. Some means of holding the strut is necessary to elevate it to genius. A piece of pipe cemented in the floor would be enough.
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So day 5. Or is it 4? :-\ ;D
Got my bear paw on that Mazda MX5 with the brake binding on the front. Couldn't turn the wheel at all.
But needed to confirm it was the calliper. When they're seized on I like this nice stubby pry bar to pull the calliper off....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0049_zps1u0rs42j.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0049_zps1u0rs42j.jpg.html)
Immediately I saw the piston dust boot was torn. But I like to double check it's not a hose. I crimped off the brake hose and opened the bleeder. Pushed the piston back and it still wouldn't move. I was salavating at replacing the brakes and calliper. Called the owner. "Nah we don't want it doing". >:( >:( >:( >:( completely their decision but annoying. So boxed it back out and dumped it outside. You can't win them all ::)
Then to an Astra H. What a dog ::)
NSF ARB link (I didn't anticipate this becoming an ARB link blog ::))
OSF coil spring (which nearly killed me :-[)
And front discs and pads
I brake out the Irwins for the ARB link to then realise it has flats on the back for a spanner :-[ but it was early and I hadn't had a coffee at this point.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0050_zpsrnhd40xl.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0050_zpsrnhd40xl.jpg.html)
One defeated ARB link...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0053_zpsfyetctea.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0053_zpsfyetctea.jpg.html)
Note how one of the balljoints is missing. With these crap plastic Vauxhall links they're so flimsy so once I've undone the first nut I break them. That then exposes the ball. Grips on that and the rest is easy.
On fitting the new one the anti roll bar dropped down a bit and access to the nut was obscured. So I lifted it up and jammed in whatever came to hand (my irwins again ::)) so I could tighten the nut...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0054_zps8btmvd2m.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0054_zps8btmvd2m.jpg.html)
So on to the spring that nearly killed me.
Got the knuckle loose from strut, ARB link, brake hose, abs wiring etc. Then I moved to the strut tower. I admit I wasn't paying 100% attention. But normally you see one of two things...
1.) 3 x 13mm nuts securing strut to strut tower.
Or
2.) one nut securing strut to strut tower. Then there's one underneath that holding the top mount on to the top of the spring.
Well I looked (all too quickly it appears) saw just one nut. So I gunned it off :-[
BOOM.
The spring just let go. Luckily it didn't break anything. And lucky it didn't take my legs off.
Anyway on inspection it appears I'd undone the nut securing the top mount to the shock (I worked that out) but how the f... was the strut secure in the strut tower. It turns out that Vauxhall in their infinite wisdom decided to do away with a mounting nut and replaced it with this plastic lock mechanism.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0059_zpsw0tqdndc.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0059_zpsw0tqdndc.jpg.html)
It prises apart and releases the strut. I'm happy to hold my hand up when I've made a mistake. But I've never ever seen this set up before. I know one thing though.... I'll never forget it! :y
Well at least it saved me the job of removing the spring ;D
New spring fitted...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0060_zpsy5lcvxwk.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0060_zpsy5lcvxwk.jpg.html)
With the new spring fitted you can see on the top of the top mount the part where the clip fits in to ::)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0061_zpscnjypbpx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0061_zpscnjypbpx.jpg.html)
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On to the brakes. This is my 3/8 impact in action with 7mm Allen socket to buzz the sliders out
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0055_zpsgq1bo1ek.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0055_zpsgq1bo1ek.jpg.html)
When undoing calliper bracket bolts I like long wrenches to break them loose. Then the dewalt to finish them off...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0056_zpszmrvvval.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0056_zpszmrvvval.jpg.html)
New d's and p's all fitted. I spray a little white grease on the hub mating surface....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0057_zpss6krpdm4.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0057_zpss6krpdm4.jpg.html)
I am so bad arse I then do AC regasses on my lunch 8) ;D note eeyore looking on... ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0063_zps2tmv7fbb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0063_zps2tmv7fbb.jpg.html)
Finally booked in a car with "some knocking". Another ARB link. A track rod end. And some tracking tomorrow....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0064_zpstugppxbk.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0064_zpstugppxbk.jpg.html)
With these I brake the jam nut loose. I then make sure the jam nut spins independently of the track rod so tracking is really easy. If it doesn't conform I break out the red spanner. Luckily this one gave up with no fight :y
Tomorrow we have shed loads in :)
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Clearly nobody gives a shit that I nearly killed myself!!! >:( >:(
;D ;D ;D
So the track rod end done last night I tracked it up this morning. As you can see from the image the space to work with the track rod is quite tight on the MOT ramp (where we do our tracking) which is why I like to get them moving lovely beforehand.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0065_zpsagmk7kwi.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0065_zpsagmk7kwi.jpg.html)
So the first reading shows everything is good except the toe (visible in red at the bottom)....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0066_zpswvmb8idn.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0066_zpswvmb8idn.jpg.html)
And once I'd adjusted it....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0067_zpsoexiuwzg.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0067_zpsoexiuwzg.jpg.html)
Yeah could be bang on. But it's good enough 👍
So with that done I attempt an AC regas on a 06 Vectra. Once vacuumed it would not hold. The needle on the gauge slowly crept up. I thought this may be the case as there was LOADS of dye around the LP valve. I mean you normally get a little bit around the valves but this was clearly leaking. After calling Vauxhall they informed me the valve itself can be replaced as opposed to the whole line. So this is on order and we will attempt the regas next week :y
Then a regas on an Audi A6 which didn't end up being a regas. ::) he tells me when he turned up that actually it was regassed last week somewhere else and the AC won't turn on (same as the Omega... always stays on Eco and won't go to AC). I used the Sna-on to read the fault codes.... AC pressure sensor code. Quite common on these I believe. Sensor screws in to the condenser. Again, coming in next week when the sensor will arrive.
Another regas. ::) on a 14 plate megane. this time actually worked. Yaaaaaay lol
Then some MOT repairs on an 04 clit ::)
Unseize brake load valve (sprayed wd40 and it unseized immediately with a bit of working 8))
CV boot resecure with new clip.
Tyre. Fitted by mobile place as our compressor decided to die :'(
Couple of bulbs.
And anadvisory he wanted doing.... rear exhaust hanger.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0068_zpsbnlzfyr5.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0068_zpsbnlzfyr5.jpg.html)
I don't know what it is with Renault. Why make a simple exhaust hanger a 6 monthly maintenance item :-\
Finally discs and pads on a Fiat Punto and an oil change on an old X-Trail.
now regarding tomorrow....
The boss has an Aston Martin. And he needs some work doing. The bits he needs (maf sensor, bonnet latch and service kit are unavailable from factors) so one of us has to travel to Newport pagnell to pick them up ;D my old dear loves them so I'm picking her up on the way to go pick the bits up ;D
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what size are the irwins, 10inch?
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No mate, they are just standard vice grip size :y
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So day whatever can't remember lol
How does my Omega look in the car park at Aston Martin ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0069_zpsivvfpgfb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0069_zpsivvfpgfb.jpg.html)
My ma is absolutely bessotted with Astons but I'm not sure anymore...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0070_zpsj7wu2afh.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0070_zpsj7wu2afh.jpg.html)
Though this new one (http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0071_zps3egnilkc.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0071_zps3egnilkc.jpg.html)is lovely looking....
The lady in the background was so nice. I picked up the parts for the owner and then she told me I was free to look round :y
So not a usual thing for me to go on a road trip in work time ;D but then had to go back to work 😩😩😩
So got through 4 AC regasses....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0074_zps6ftneny7.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0074_zps6ftneny7.jpg.html)
And finally an OSR shocker on a 320.
Two bolts going through two captive nuts on this little mounting bracket....which subsequently bolts to the shocker ::) I'd never actually done one and I didn't anticipate the spring shooting down as the "cradle" it sits in was still attached. I supported it just in case though :y
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0073_zpssixbgedi.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0073_zpssixbgedi.jpg.html)
And then the top mounting is in the boot just like an omega. However there's a load of trim to remove to get to it ::)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0072_zpsnf0vgfaf.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0072_zpsnf0vgfaf.jpg.html)
Refit reverse of removal.....
HOWEVER ;D ;D ;D
The shock has to sit in just right. I thought I'd got the bolt started. It hadn't due to it being at an angle ::) I then cross threaded it >:( I don't do this often. But when I do I like to do it properly ;D
Being a mechanic is not about not messing up. It's being able to get yourself out of a mess :y
I took the stripped bolt. Took it to the grinder and tapered the end to take away the destroyed threads. I put a bit of engine oil on the bolt to ease it in. A little bit of gentle wiggling and I saw it come through the top nice n straight. I then ratcheted it to make sure it went in nice. JD :y
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You'll learn something new every day steve. Well done :y
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Tell me about it Steve. Learn every single day. :y
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So today...
Had a 58 plate Mundano in for two rear ARB links. I refuse to take any more photos of ARB links ;D
And exhaust back box. So took the clamp off and as expected the pipe from the back box that slides over the centre pipe was rust welded in place. When this happens I break out the angle grinder. Normally I make two slits and use a chisel to Ben that piece back to relieve the tension and the pipe will twist off. However I had to get a bit creative here because our compressor has broke and I therefore can't use my small cut off tool. So had to break out the big grinder. And access was tight.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0076_zpsz1agqasq.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0076_zpsz1agqasq.jpg.html)
I got the chisel in to knock it off and job done.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0078_zpsn0ekev8p.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0078_zpsn0ekev8p.jpg.html)
I then took a piece of rough emery to clean up the pipe.
Covered it in exhaust Jizm. And fitted the new back box.
Old back box came off in pieces lol
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0077_zpscy5nykem.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0077_zpscy5nykem.jpg.html)
One last note about exhaust fitting. This particular one ran sooooo close to the rear axle. So I was holding it in the exact location where it wouldn't knock. And then got the apprentice to tighten up the clamp. This ca take a few goes. But then when you've got it whereby when you shake it you hear no knocking all is good :y
3 x regasses 8)
A full service on a rotte old Honda Civic. I found loooooas of oil in spark plug wells 2 and 3. And low brake pads. Customer wanted it all sorting. So brake pads done (after Andrew Page sent three wrong sets >:() and the oil in the wells I did a bit of research.....
The rocker cover gasket set does come with the 4 o rings for the spark plug tubes. However being an advocate of "Eric the Car Guy" I know that those aren't the only seals 8) there are some under the spark plug tubes. Couldn't get the gasket set anywhere today so that's back in Friday. I'll then get it back in in a months time. If it's still leaking ot to delve deeper with those tube gaskets. :y
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It wasn't long ago that you were kakking yourself about using an angle grinder! ;D :y
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Funny you should say that... A year on and sight of the box still makes me shudder :-[
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lol I remember well. And DG u had a lucky escape. In all honesty I'd started to slip in to some bad habits. And then a small thing like a bit of rust flicked in my eye. I'm now back to wearing full protective mask etc. They can. E scary :'(
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Scariest thing I've done with a grinder was being wedged in the engine bay of the Cobra trying to chop out a chunk of chassis with almost no access and no wiggle room.. when the grinder 'bites' and takes off toward your chest it's definitely a sphincter puckering moment (twice!) despite full face protection.. bloody hate the things, personally.
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Scariest thing I've done with a grinder was being wedged in the engine bay of the Cobra trying to chop out a chunk of chassis with almost no access and no wiggle room.. when the grinder 'bites' and takes off toward your chest it's definitely a sphincter puckering moment (twice!) despite full face protection.. bloody hate the things, personally.
Bloke I worked with once had an impressive scar running from his stomach up to the side of his neck where he lost control of a 9 inch angle grinder. :o ::)
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Omg dudes shut up. You'll scare me :'( :-[
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Omg dudes shut up. You'll scare me :'( :-[
Man up, wet pants! ;) ;D
... did that work? That's the limits of my motivational speaking.. ;D ;D
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Man up, wet pants! ;) ;D
... did that work? That's the limits of my motivational speaking.. ;D ;D
Missed your calling there chap. I'd buy your book ;)
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Thanks boys. And Aaron great talk. I feel motivated and not scared at all now 😂😂😂
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Webby if you want to see someone who appears to be absolutely unafraid of a grinder, look at some of Laura Kampf's videos on YouTube, like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WrE_gBJSl4
No guard on the grinder, either :o :o
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Holy shit balls that video was awesome!!! I love the idea of a little bit of filler in between the welds to hide the imperfections 👍👍👍
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..... but she needs a face mask 😷 😂
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..... but she needs a face mask 😷 😂
She's not that bad looki.. oh, not what you meant ;D
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..... but she needs a face mask 😷 😂
She's not that bad looki.. oh, not what you meant ;D
And people thought she had acne scars...... ::) ;D
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She looks like she'd prefer the rug. 😂
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You underestimate our European cousins ::)
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So then yesterday..
Let me make this completely clear. I wanted to do something else for a living yesterday :'( I get one of these days roughly once a month. Lol these days are where literally everything you touch goes wrong ;D
I am an honest chap and I don't mind admitting I completely got overwhelmed and flustered yesterday due to things going pear shaped.
OSF coil spring on a BMW 1 series. To tell you the truth this was a 1.5 hour job according to Autodata. It took me from 9 til 2.30. :-[ that's 4.5 hours with my lunch in between :-[
So the shenanigans kicked off when I undone the wheel bolts ::) put the locker in and blasted it..... it started spinning. But with little resistance I thought "hmmm either that was ally loose or that's just stripped". Yep. Stripped the dudes locker. Luckily we have a set of BMW lockers. Found the correct one and undid it with a bar. It was on there sooooooo tight. And then gave him the one out of the set.
Bastard ::)
Here's a first glimpse at my arch nemesis...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0080_zpsc05nqeqx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0080_zpsc05nqeqx.jpg.html)
Here I've removed abs wire, drop link, pinch bolt etc. But note the amount of shock absorber that comes out the bottom of the knuckle. It was never going to simply knock all the way down so I had to remove some stuff and that's when my day got shite ;D
Here's me in an action shot ;D ;D of removing the TRE nut.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0081_zpsmfkjwo1x.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0081_zpsmfkjwo1x.jpg.html)
When I say removing... I meant undoing it til it spun :'( in this situ I normally use the gearbox jack to push the TRE ball joint up in to its mount and that allows me to buzz the nut off......
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0082_zpsdcgyubua.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0082_zpsdcgyubua.jpg.html)
....not on this car >:(
Eventually after far too long pissing about with it I decided to carefully cut the nut off. This took ages too but eventually came off. New nut found in magic bolt draw 8)
Then thumping the knuckle down more revealed I had to remove the odd shape control arm visible in the last pic. Of course, the nut span again 😩😩😩😩 the nut was below so this time I didn't even bother trying anything different other than cutting the nut off again..... another load of time spent on that (I really must perfect that technique....though to my credit I didn't damage either of the threads....though still ran a die over them later on to be sure).
The bloody thing still wouldn't knock down far enough and I could see it's cos the other control arm was stopping it from coming down. So undertray off and loosen the bolt/bushing so it could allow the knuckle to drop all the way down....(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0084_zps84ho10td.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0084_zps84ho10td.jpg.html)
Finally I relieved the strut out of its home and buzzed the three nuts off up top to claim my prize.
I was pretty cheesed off at this point and decided after 2.5 hours to go on lunch.....to come back to the Pete tong stuff continuing ;D I can laugh now but at the time I could have committed murder ;D
So to sum up the next events the spring wouldn't sit in the compressor properly due to its odd shape n size. So I put the bottom of the strut in it and buzzed the nut off. This is quite frankly dangerous but I did take all precautions (chain round it). The top mount pinged off and went everywhere. Luckily the bearing stayed in tacked. So fought with getting it all back together.....to realise I'd missed out a washer that allowed the top mount to spin really easy 😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩😩
So back again with my precarious spring removal.
By this point I enlisted the help of the boss cos I just wanted this job to be over. So after this I was chief torch holder while I got a lesson in what experience really counts for and we got the thing back in. I reckon I lost a stone in sweating :-[
After all this I felt really dismayed and frankly quite down like I was useless. I don't like to be defeated. But some times these things do happen and I soon had to pick myself up as I was in on my own today :o :o :o..........
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Are the TRE ball joints tapered or parallel? The E64 (and I think as far back as Al's E39) are parallel so jamming them upward does SFA to stop them from spinning - the only way is the allen socket in the end of it..
Or, as I ended up doing on the E64, a grinder to cut the damn thing off after the allen key strips out.*
*Actually a mate did the grinding .. slitting disc exploded on the grinder when it caught and only just missed his face, too :o
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Reading this made me feel so happy that I had got my local garage to fit the new front shocks on my 530d! :y
I think the owner of the garage got involved with mine at some point as well. ::) :)
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Are the TRE ball joints tapered or parallel? The E64 (and I think as far back as Al's E39) are parallel so jamming them upward does SFA to stop them from spinning - the only way is the allen socket in the end of it..
Or, as I ended up doing on the E64, a grinder to cut the damn thing off after the allen key strips out.*
*Actually a mate did the grinding .. slitting disc exploded on the grinder when it caught and only just missed his face, too :o
Aaron, you ask a perfect question. Because I forgot to add I tried the exact same thing. And didn't strip it...instead I'm now two torx sockets down 😩😩😩😩
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0083_zps0yepr69j.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0083_zps0yepr69j.jpg.html)
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Reading this made me feel so happy that I had got my local garage to fit the new front shocks on my 530d! :y
I think the owner of the garage got involved with mine at some point as well. ::) :)
Lol well tig, I'm glad someone else had the same issue..... not to make their day crap but so I don't feel as bad knowing someone else has struggled!
As said I'm an honest guy and I struggled like f... with this. However if I ever have to do one again :o I'll know I'm in for a struggle and to prepare for it.
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Next time, wheel and caliper off, undo the tca/subframe bolts and unscrew the track rods, then pull the whole assembly off ;)
Alternatively, load the suspension, clamp the spring in a slightly compressed state and drop the hub assembly...
Equally, undoing the clamp nut and the strut to turret bolts would have given you ample play to get the base of the strut down to rest on the hub/tca casting and clear of the wheel arch. Then simply pull out.
Text book balls up from the get go, compounded by frustration. I would suggest that next time, rather than getting wrapped up in the whole situation, take a step back, chill, and have another go with a clear head.
:-*
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Reading this made me feel so happy that I had got my local garage to fit the new front shocks on my 530d! :y
I think the owner of the garage got involved with mine at some point as well. ::) :)
I am of the opposite opinion... hence try to do as much as I can. If I balls it up, then that's my problem, but at least I know what has been done to it.
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Next time, wheel and caliper off, undo the tca/subframe bolts and unscrew the track rods, then pull the whole assembly off ;)
Alternatively, load the suspension, clamp the spring in a slightly compressed state and drop the hub assembly...
Equally, undoing the clamp nut and the strut to turret bolts would have given you ample play to get the base of the strut down to rest on the hub/tca casting and clear of the wheel arch. Then simply pull out.
Text book balls up from the get go, compounded by frustration. I would suggest that next time, rather than getting wrapped up in the whole situation, take a step back, chill, and have another go with a clear head.
:-*
Mate everything you say is spot on. I've never done a BMW strut before so I was kind of in no mans land as to a strategy ::) however now you say it.... the compressing the spring idea is a great one :y
Regarding the break.... I did take one. But I think the problem is I didn't want to be defeated so even on my break I was still thinking about it. And as said I got myself in to a tizz ::)
I don't like to end the day where I leave and know my last job I f....d up. And luckily I got to end on a nice set of pads and tracking on a Golf. :y
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All's well ends well :y
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So then after my frank admission of being a shite mechanic for a whole day ;D I was on my own today and decided I'd stop being a pussy...
And "smash" it (as the geordie shore crew love to say ::))
Had a Zafira in yesterday that had a new DPF fitted..... it was that blocked it was hissing very loudly from the air Box!!! :o I'd never heard this before. But after fitting there was a code that kept coming up for the temp. differential pipe. A bit of investigation found a split pipe which I could have ordered a new one from Vauxhall. But that's no fun so I repaired it with some fuel line....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0085_zpsoxz6nrdm.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0085_zpsoxz6nrdm.jpg.html)
After the very shite day I had yesterday it was nice to get off to a winner, albeit an easy one; it's all about confidence people!
I then had an AC regas on a Volvo. Great. Except the HP port is located under the plastic cover over the slam panel. Easy enough to remove (2x8mm) but things like this really annoy me. A half hour job turned in to a 40 minute job ::) ;D
I then plugged a car in that had "lack of acceleration". It was a diesel Ford. And had a check engine light on. We do free plug ins so no dollar earned here. But the code was EGR flow. Anyone want to guess what was up ::) :y so getting him a quote for an EGR valve next week (yes, we could remove it, clean it out and send it on its way, but this one is part of the fannymould my parts bloke tells me, so we would just replace it. The fact it costs SHITE loads we wouldn't mess about with it....new one job done).
So on to an MOT failure from yesterday on a Renault Trafic of 2004 vintage. 2 x track rod ends. NSF lower control arm. And a NSR zero handbrake force issue to look in to.
So track rod ends...
Jam nut sprayed and wire brushed. Loosened very easily and surprisingly span independently of the inner track rod with no persuasion at all. The nut the decided to spin. Memories of yesterday hit me. But then I was replacing them anyway so got the angle grinder and gave them some stick ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0086_zpset7a1isy.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0086_zpset7a1isy.jpg.html)
I did try pushing it up to no avail.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0087_zpspa2xvx6o.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0087_zpspa2xvx6o.jpg.html)
So then bust out my big arse metal cutter! Grrrr.
my parts I ordered turned up just in time...... as well as next weeks parts and a quite disturbing thing. Mercedes B class... "auxiliary belt and tensioner please"... and this turns up for it ??? ??? ???
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0088_zpslavpuzjp.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0088_zpslavpuzjp.jpg.html)
Well, that's next week so god knows what that's going to entail as, once again, never done one :-\
So back to the Trafic. I fitted the TREs and moved on to the brake issue.
The failure was no handbrake force on the near side (can't remember the exact wording) so I removed the wheel, disconnected the handbrake cable from the calliper. The handbrake cable was moving freely. The calliper handbrake lever was stuck solid. New calliper needed :y
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0089_zpsy6udn3tf.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0089_zpsy6udn3tf.jpg.html)
Rear calipers on these Trafic/ vivaros are easy to replace.... crimp off brake hose. 2 x 13mm securing calliper to bracket. In this case I had to smack the handbrake lever portion of the calliper to move it down enough to relieve the cable from the calliper. Then 14mm brake hose connection to calliper. And spin calliper off the hose. Refit reverse of removal. However....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0090_zps4opyngrn.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0090_zps4opyngrn.jpg.html)
.....note how the brake hose twists. It's normal on this van presumably to clear any brake hose from the spring area. It's an odd orientation during figment but I've done a few of these and I simply get the brake hose straight, twist calliper on til it's snug. Tighten line with 14mm. Then turn the calliper one rev clockwise and the line falls in to place...usually. :y
Here's a couple of pics of the calliper. As said the handbrake lever was frozen. You can see the dust boot damaged through the site hole bit
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0091_zpso5ek5zhb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0091_zpso5ek5zhb.jpg.html)
And picture of the damaged dust boot....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0092_zpsn6x0edoi.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0092_zpsn6x0edoi.jpg.html)
Again I could have spent a bit of time unseizing it but with this damage to the dust boot I doubt this caliper was long for this world anyway so best to replace IMO.
Next to the control arm.
Two spanner method to relieve the 24mm nut off the bottom ball joint....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0093_zpsdiy6rm6g.jpg)[/URL
(http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0093_zpsdiy6rm6g.jpg.html)
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Next to the control arm.
Two spanner method to relieve the 24mm nut off the bottom ball joint....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0093_zpsdiy6rm6g.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0093_zpsdiy6rm6g.jpg.html)
21mm nut n bolt securing the rear bush in...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0095_zps5ru6kifc.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0095_zps5ru6kifc.jpg.html)
21mm bolt head on the front bush...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0096_zpsisntxduq.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0096_zpsisntxduq.jpg.html)
However the nut underneath was 30mm. Spun that off and all was loose :y
Only bugbear was the driveshaft was in the way of getting the bolt out all the way. So driveshaft out.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0097_zpsl15fqqa3.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0097_zpsl15fqqa3.jpg.html)
32mm for the driveshaft nut. Bolt came straight out. And so did the control arm :y
Im a bit of a messy sod :-[ I sat down on the office chair for this job. Not cos I'm lazy. But because I HATE these big vans on our ramps. At least if I work on them at chair height if something god forbid ever did happen at least it wouldn't have that far to fall.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0098_zpseq0k5go8.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0098_zpseq0k5go8.jpg.html)
The old shagged WB......
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0099_zpsxxqqooom.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0099_zpsxxqqooom.jpg.html)
I swapped the plastic clips over for the ABS wire. They just pop out. And push in to the new 'bone.
When fitting new bones I BLAST the mounting points with grease. It helps unbelievably!!!!!
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0100_zpsredc2goj.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0100_zpsredc2goj.jpg.html)
Anyway got the new bone fitted, axle back in, all buttoned up. And I feel I redeemed myself from yesterday. I am still a master technician ;D ;D ;D
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Sorry just to add....once the 24mm nut was off the bottom ball joint it didn't just drop out. I have purchased a very long ball joint splitter from strap-on. Only reason I got it from them is that I seem to break them a lot. And when I next do I'll get a free replacement! ;) :y
Once I hammered this in it then literally did just fall out with a bit of help from my big pry bar :y
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So then ladies. Not updated this week as I've been in charge with the boss on holiday and if this wasn't a difficult task the freaking broadband went down which meant no invoices, no card 💳 machine and no telephone.
Now I do hope TB reads this cos I just want to make it clear - BT are useless!!!! 😂
So this week I've been keeping two others in check, dealing with all customers, doing work on cars and reporting to the owners.... whilst attending to the 6 engineers that BT sent out.
Anyway no pics sadly. However. I'd like your help......
Got a Citroen c3 in tomorrow. It has the worst broken coil spring I've ever seen. It's destroyed the tyre, torn the cv boot, punctured a brake hose and destroyed a brake line!!!!
Anyway the spring is under no tension from the top mount however it has moved so far down the actual knuckle is keeping it under tension. How the opps am I going to get this off without killing myself. As the cv boot needs doing I'm considering removing the knuckle and strut together, chaining it up and then cutting it. But even that's dangerous!!! Any suggestions?
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So then ladies. Not updated this week as I've been in charge with the boss on holiday and if this wasn't a difficult task the freaking broadband went down which meant no invoices, no card 💳 machine and no telephone.
Now I do hope TB reads this cos I just want to make it clear - BT are useless!!!! 😂
So this week I've been keeping two others in check, dealing with all customers, doing work on cars and reporting to the owners.... whilst attending to the 6 engineers that BT sent out.
Anyway no pics sadly. However. I'd like your help......
Got a Citroen c3 in tomorrow. It has the worst broken coil spring I've ever seen. It's destroyed the tyre, torn the cv boot, punctured a brake hose and destroyed a brake line!!!!
Anyway the spring is under no tension from the top mount however it has moved so far down the actual knuckle is keeping it under tension. How the opps am I going to get this off without killing myself. As the cv boot needs doing I'm considering removing the knuckle and strut together, chaining it up and then cutting it. But even that's dangerous!!! Any suggestions?
Cut it up in situ to take the tension off it,you'll need a top bearing too as I expect the ballbearings are scattered on a road somewhere :-\
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I suspect BT never sent any engineers. Try Openreach ;)
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So then ladies. Not updated this week as I've been in charge with the boss on holiday and if this wasn't a difficult task the freaking broadband went down which meant no invoices, no card 💳 machine and no telephone.
Now I do hope TB reads this cos I just want to make it clear - BT are useless!!!! 😂
So this week I've been keeping two others in check, dealing with all customers, doing work on cars and reporting to the owners.... whilst attending to the 6 engineers that BT sent out.
Anyway no pics sadly. However. I'd like your help......
Got a Citroen c3 in tomorrow. It has the worst broken coil spring I've ever seen. It's destroyed the tyre, torn the cv boot, punctured a brake hose and destroyed a brake line!!!!
Anyway the spring is under no tension from the top mount however it has moved so far down the actual knuckle is keeping it under tension. How the opps am I going to get this off without killing myself. As the cv boot needs doing I'm considering removing the knuckle and strut together, chaining it up and then cutting it. But even that's dangerous!!! Any suggestions?
Cut it up in situ to take the tension off it,you'll need a top bearing too as I expect the ballbearings are scattered on a road somewhere :-\
Thanks Henry. Bizarrely the top mount has come apart and it looked as though all ball bearings were there. The part where the ball bearings live is secured by the nut up top. And the rest is flopping around the strut.
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I suspect BT never sent any engineers. Try Openreach ;)
Yeah them as well. They're all useless 😂😂😂
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Burn the spring into two or three more pieces with the oxy-acetylene. Then just remove the strut as normal, and undo the top nut. Quick, easy and safe.
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On the Zaf, a few things to watch for.
1) The plastic pipe failing is common and the fix you did is spot on (DTM recommended, proven and actually first off to do) however, it should be from the metal pipe to further up towards the differential pressure sensor or it will go again.
2) The split pipe will have been the cause of the DPF clogging, under such a fault condition the DPF will not re-gen, keep running and it clogs!
3) When changing a DPF you MUST use the scantool to get the ECU to re-learn the back pressure or the regens will be far from optimal.
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Hi guys thanks for all the replies.
Mark thanks for that info. Yep, once DPF fitted we used the snapon under engine and "special functions " to tell it the DPF had been replaced 👍
So here's that spring I told you about. This is the worst one I've seen. Note the CV grease everywhere....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0101_zps3lr84ftz.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0101_zps3lr84ftz.jpg.html)
As mentioned before the spring was still under tension due to the way it had jammed so I carefully cut each loop til it was gone. A bit ott perhaps but sorted nevertheless 😂
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0102_zpsdxfamabv.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0102_zpsdxfamabv.jpg.html)
On the last coil the cutter grabbed and could have been nasty. Luckily no injury. But definitely reaffirmed why I wear safety gear.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0103_zpsxodfiqdd.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0103_zpsxodfiqdd.jpg.html)
Cutting the universal boot to size after I've fitted the spring.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0104_zpsg5wkbgou.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0104_zpsg5wkbgou.jpg.html)
And nice and tightly banded....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0105_zpsmpofxcf0.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0105_zpsmpofxcf0.jpg.html)
Not a fan of the longevity of stretchy boots. But they're easy to fit with a cone, some grease and a cup of boiling water 😂
Note the brake line is in front of the shock ::) had to take caliper off and swing it behind. Stupid bear ::) ;D
I hate cv boots. They're messy for people with two hands and as I use my arm instead of a hand I get absolutely covered! ;D
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So nothing too exciting of late.
We have this new thing where we video any service advisories and e mail / mms them to customers. Had some awesome feedback. What do you guys think?
So three services today. And customer wanted front pads doing on his 13 plate A class.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0526_zpstsi5l5qi.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0526_zpstsi5l5qi.jpg.html)
An AC regas on a Hyundai Tragedy 😂
Then bottom ball joint on an 08 Vivaro....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0528_zpswroyc0ja.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0528_zpswroyc0ja.jpg.html)
This was easy except the stupid Renault folk put that stupid abs wire holder in the way. Some gentle massaging got it out the way so I could get the 18mm spanner on top of each of the bolt heads. Then 18mm nuts on bottom. 24mm nut on top of ball joint. Jacked the new one up and no spinning. Job done 👍
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I know the local Ford stealers do those video "health checks"whether this gets them extra work or what kind of feedback they get from them obviously I don't know.Also when a vehicle first arrives on site the service advisor[used to be service receptionist]does a walk round video of it in the presence of the customer,which presumably is to stop customers returning later to collect their vehicle claiming that it's got a scratch/damage that it didn't have when they left it.
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Yeah it's not really for covering our bums it's more for showing advisories so that they can actually see the problem on their car. Folk who have had the videos have loved it!
On the flip side....
The mechanics don't really want to do it cos I think they're a touch embarrassed about having to do the commentary. However for me I love it 😍 the fact people can see how bad their dogs really are then they tend to ask you to do the work befyyouve even quoted them 👍
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Yep,the video on arrival is there as a record of damage[if any]the vehicle arrives with.The health check ones are sent to the customer to show how good/bad their pride and joy is.Anyway when are we going to see the signs going up?Webbys Motors Inc. Specialists in all things Omega 8)
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Yep,the video on arrival is there as a record of damage[if any]the vehicle arrives with.The health check ones are sent to the customer to show how good/bad their pride and joy is.Anyway when are we going to see the signs going up?Webbys Motors Inc. Specialists in all things Omega 8)
Not in the near future ;D
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So got an interesting one today.
Firstly f... me was it hot working in a garage today :o :o
Anyhoooo first job was something I've never done before. So Peugeot 308 with no rear lights working on the OS tail lamp. Looking at the connector that goes to the tail lamp thee was some melted connections. So Peugeot do a repair kit. Basically it's a whole new connector. You add the premade connections to the connector and solder (or join) the wires in sequence.
New connector with new wires...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0106_zpszavu1jdm.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0106_zpszavu1jdm.jpg.html)
And my weapons of choice that I know are not OOF endorsed but...I'll live ;D
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0107_zpsp4jiljwe.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0107_zpsp4jiljwe.jpg.html)
The first connection crimped and ready to be burned :)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0108_zpsmhzfnbfv.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0108_zpsmhzfnbfv.jpg.html)
The connection post being heated with my lighter...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0109_zpsrtcedqu9.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0109_zpsrtcedqu9.jpg.html)
All wires crimped and heat shrink wrapped. Followed by individual leccy tape. Followed by the whole thing bound in leccy tape...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0110_zpsz1cqzw7l.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0110_zpsz1cqzw7l.jpg.html)
And finally if you just wanted to replace one bad wire, open the connector up as per the next pic and lift the little tab securing the connector in place. The wire selected will then just pull out. Replace. Lock it down. Solder it to the wire you're joining it to and boom you're done.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0112_zpsn3q9m9kb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0112_zpsn3q9m9kb.jpg.html)
Then today an AC regas and full service on a 14 plate Ibiza. Nice n easy.
Then rear discs and pads on an A3 that needed doing before the end of the day. Sadly I got half way through and found a nackered calliper on the OSR. And all the suppliers had shut so I had to put it all back together for it to come back in on Monday 😩😩😩😩😩
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Are those ratchet crimpers your using like..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9-Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-Cable-Wire-Electrical-Crimp-Terminals-Crimping-Tool-Kit-/172044549807?hash=item280ea77eaf:g:EVkAAOSwZ1lWgiTC
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Are those ratchet crimpers your using like..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9-Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-Cable-Wire-Electrical-Crimp-Terminals-Crimping-Tool-Kit-/172044549807?hash=item280ea77eaf:g:EVkAAOSwZ1lWgiTC (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9-Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-Cable-Wire-Electrical-Crimp-Terminals-Crimping-Tool-Kit-/172044549807?hash=item280ea77eaf:g:EVkAAOSwZ1lWgiTC)
Spend a little more, and buy the ratchet crimpers with changeable jaws; then you can do both insulated and uninsulated terminals.
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Are those ratchet crimpers your using like..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/9-Ratchet-Crimper-Plier-Cable-Wire-Electrical-Crimp-Terminals-Crimping-Tool-Kit-/172044549807?hash=item280ea77eaf:g:EVkAAOSwZ1lWgiTC
No mate, I try and avoid anything too fancy (and expensive) ;D
Mine crimpers are just the cheap multi tool....
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CRIMPING-CUTTING-TOOL-CABLE-WIRE-STRIPPER-PLIERS-ELECTRICAL-CRIMPER-CUTTER-NEW-/111676241933?hash=item1a006c380d:g:zcoAAOSwQTVWCRKl
Looking at my pic again though mine appear to have a more substantial handle. Perhaps I paid more than £1.93 for them :-\ lol
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Ps, an apology for this sentence......
"And my weapons of choice that I know are not OOF endorsed but... I'll live"
That came across really sarcastic and I didn't mean it to. I love my Omega and OOF. So sorry if that seemed sarcastic. I'm about 30 years off the average OOF experience of most on here ;D and I'm in no way at the stage where I can claim to have experienced a lot in this trade. So again, apologies :y
I was however referring to another thread where the general consensus was crimp connectors are shite. I use these particular ones for two reasons. 1.) as you know I'm missing approx. 40% of an appendage (no stemo, not the important one 😂) and to have something that just slides on and crimp you're done is awesome.... for me personally. I tend to find soldering a bit of a ball ache. Achievable. But when you got another job and another job etc to do after it's so much quicker. 2.) in the second pic they look just crimped and a light breeze could separate them. However once the heat shrink has melted and the glue inside it's really strong. As for longevity I can't envisage them coming apart but maybe someone has experience of this... :-\
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No need to apologise, whatever works for you and you are happy with :y
I prefer soldering, but then I cut my teeth from a time when we did board level repairs on equipment (mainly DLP boards on A Series mainframes, Wyse terminals, 1488/1489 line drivers on comms boards etc etc) so I know no different!
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For gods sake get some ratchet crimpers!
They're less than a tenner for a basic one and infinitely better and more reliable crimps than the old bent tin type.
I should add you will probably find it much easier to use, you can get a gentle grip of the crimp in the jaws and then slide it over the bared wires before crimping making one handed operation far easier.
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For gods sake get some ratchet crimpers!
They're less than a tenner for a basic one and infinitely better and more reliable crimps than the old bent tin type.
I should add you will probably find it much easier to use, you can get a gentle grip of the crimp in the jaws and then slide it over the bared wires before crimping making one handed operation far easier.
This. They're make a better crimp, especially if you're currently doing separate crimps for the wire and insulation, and are quicker and easier to use.
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So had 3 x regasses today.
An interim service on a Punto. Why did they put a strut brace right over the drain plug? Two x 15mm get it out the way but why! Lol
Anyway then had a 54 plate Mondeo with cylinder one misfire. Set of leads and it was sorted however there was lots of oil in the plug wells. So valve cover off...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0114_zps6gzlwgo2.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0114_zps6gzlwgo2.jpg.html)
Nice n straight forward. Ten or twelve 8mm. Cam sensor unplugged. Throttle cable held out the way. And three plastic bolts that go on top of three 8mm bolts so the engine cover can pop in securely.
I also love the fact that you undo the bolts and even when they're loose they remain in place so they don't fall out the cover if you turn it upside down.
The valve cover off.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0115_zpsmkgqwwfe.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0115_zpsmkgqwwfe.jpg.html)
When I removed the middle square gaskets which seal off the tubes these were brittle as f...
And the new gasket. I don't like this brand as I've had them leak a few times. If it's the only one they had 😩
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0116_zpsw0fisii1.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0116_zpsw0fisii1.jpg.html)
The gasket fit quite nicely actually. And car had a good run. Recheck for leaks. Bone dry 👍
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Hi guys.
Been a tough week. I've had the dreaded gout hit me. And I've hardly been able to walk. :'( however not to be deterred.
Done a lot of cream work this week.
Had this dog in for MOT and service.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0118_zps5ioyzik2.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0118_zps5ioyzik2.jpg.html)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0120_zpsro49udec.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0120_zpsro49udec.jpg.html)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0119_zpsuoxhyvzb.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0119_zpsuoxhyvzb.jpg.html)
It's a Ferrari replica (obviously) but is actually a Noble P4. It apparently isn't very fast. But it sounds the muts nuts! Smells good too!
It has the Renault V6 in it from an old Renault summat-or-other. Maybe someone can remind me :-\
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0121_zpsqjqacwkm.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0121_zpsqjqacwkm.jpg.html)
So on to the work.
As said lots of brakes, services, regasses etc this week.
I put a new wastegate actuator on an Audi A4 S line of 57 plate vintage...
3 x 5mm allens. And an electrical connection and it came off...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0122_zpsfz5d5pno.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0122_zpsfz5d5pno.jpg.html)
My understanding is that this is the wastegate for the charged air to be excreted. There is a vacuum wastegate on the turbine side (.exhaust gases) of which I think you can see the diaphragm and a bit of the rod in the photo. I learned something here as I thought wastegate was just for the turbine side and not for the boost pressure side. :y
While I was doing that bossman was fitting a customer supplied Miltek exhaust cat back. Afterwards it sounded awesome. Not loud. But o over run there was a beautiful rumble :-* I understand these Miltek exhausts aren't designed for loudness anyway... they're designed to extract more horse power with a decent remap.
So anyway after I finished creaming over the Miltek...
...I fitted an AC compressor to a Corsa D. One of the loveliest jobs I've ever done :-*
Plastic aux belt shield out of the way with 4 x T25 bolts. Then aux belt off. This was a bit of a pita as the tensioner was so damn strong but just about peeled it off the compressor...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0123_zpsel2mrf7w.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0123_zpsel2mrf7w.jpg.html)
In this next photo you can just see my E torx socket on the bolt holding the lines in. This bolt held down both of the lines together. Real nice easy set up...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0124_zpswlx6r5rp.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0124_zpswlx6r5rp.jpg.html)
Ease the lines out of the way (easy as they're on flexible hoses and not just hard lines). Undo electrical connection. Then 3 x E torx bolts holding it on. All three really accessible even with the turbo pipe in the way.
New compressor.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0117_zpsgynuyywk.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0117_zpsgynuyywk.jpg.html)
I checked the o rings were still on the lines. They were and they weren't damaged. Little bit of PAG oil to lube the o rings on reinstalling.
Refit reverse of removal. One note though. As I use my left am to support compressor on installing I had to drop the ramp down as it wouldn't reach (I have a short arm ;D) and threaded bolts in.
Then gassed it. And all was gravy. :y
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I would think[could be wrong though] that the Renault V6 was the 2.7?lump that went in the Renault 30,the Volvo 264 and the Peugeot 604[?] it was a joint venture engine between the three companies I believe.
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Not to mention the 25 in NA and turbo forms and Decorated ;)
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Whichever version or application - its was an utterly shite engine. But then it is French. ;D
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😂😂😂 let me find out.... :y
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Not to mention the 25 in NA and turbo forms and Decorated ;)
Don't forget to add Delorean to the list of losers with it.
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It's from the Renault Alpine GTA V6.....
Anyone remember this?
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renault_Alpine_GTA/A610
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Not to mention the 25 in NA and turbo forms and Decorated ;)
Don't forget to add Delorean to the list of losers with it.
That's what my stupid phone turned into Decorated ;D
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I bloody hate modern cars 😩😩😩😩😩 lol
So had this 14 plate Merc C220 AMG in. Lovely motor. In for a couple of tyres and rear discs and pads.
The tyres were 245/45/18 (I think) and they were runflats. Sadly our tyre machine won't cope with those ;D so we get a local tyre place out to fit them for us. Money for doing nothing :y
Anyway I had a quick look at the calipers on the rear and they have the electric motor. On every car I've ever done with those on you plug in the computer to the OBD, tell it you're doing brakes, you replace the brakes and then go back in to the computer and it pushes the pistons up against the pads. I tried to do this first of all....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0126_zpsuk5pkcic.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0126_zpsuk5pkcic.jpg.html)
So the scanner will auto detect the car. And then go in to the electric park brake section....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0127_zps04j0e9ty.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0127_zps04j0e9ty.jpg.html)
Once in here there's normally a section to click on to say "fit rear brakes" or something like that. After ten minutes of searching there was nothing 😩😩😩
Besides that the parts that turned up were all wrong. Grrrr.
So got the right parts from Mercedes (unavailable anywhere else) and found out that to set up the rear brakes.... you go in to the cars iDrive system (or Mercedes' equivalent) and do it that way. That's a new one on me! I wonder what would happen if a customer accidentally chose this function ???
Anyway finally got them done...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0128_zpslcdwpo3r.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0128_zpslcdwpo3r.jpg.html)
Spring. 2 x 7mm allens. 2 x 18mm for the calliper bracket. And t30 for the disc screw. Once you've told the car you're doing brakes you can just push the piston back as opposed to winding it in. :y
Then had 2 AC regasses and a waiter for 4 tyres. I hate fitting tyres ;D only cos I'm lazy :y
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Not to mention the 25 in NA and turbo forms and Decorated ;)
Don't forget to add Delorean to the list of losers with it.
They have major issues with the alloy block corroding through, the valley of doom!
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Had a Fiesta in today with noisy auxiliary drive. Stupid stretchy belts. One for PAS. The main one drives the AC, alternator and the water pump. However I have a good trick for getting these belts on 8)
To get them off you simply cut them with a knife. I checked the pulleys and they were all good.
So to get these belts on there's a special tool that's supposed to use. I've tried to use it a couple of times and they're shite imo.
So... take top alternator bolt off. Top alternator nut. And also remove the stud for the nut. Take OSF headlight out and you'll have perfect access to the bottom alternator bolt. Loosen this and the alternator will flop down.....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0129_zpsvpjebcdv.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0129_zpsvpjebcdv.jpg.html)
A pic of the bottom alternator bolt to be loosened....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0131_zpslglmn6nr.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0131_zpslglmn6nr.jpg.html)
Then route your new belt....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0130_zpshwi8zybp.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0130_zpshwi8zybp.jpg.html)
And being careful use a big bar to lever the alternator in place. Start the top bolt (I found it easier to start the stud but it doesn't matter) then tighten all ya bolts :y be careful to get the top bolt started nicely and don't cross thread it. Obviously :y
Then the PAS belt. Get it on the pas pump. Then as much over the crank as possible. Jam a screw driver at an angle to stop the belt coming off. Then turn the crank and watch your belt slot in place. This to me is a two person job. But achievable I suppose if you're on your own. I would want a second person though. Makes it much easier.
Soooooooo
On to a condenser on a 13 plate Megane.
Surprisingly very easy job. Recovered any refrigerant from the system. Then undertray off. Front bumper off. NSF headlight out. Plastic trim that the headlight sits on out. Then 2 x 10mm out for the lines. Undo connector to the pressure switch and it's out.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0133_zpssdvxl9qm.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0133_zpssdvxl9qm.jpg.html)
The headlight has to come out because there is a large plastic piece that over hangs where the condenser sits. I've removed condenser in this pic.
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0132_zps11xc9xlu.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0132_zps11xc9xlu.jpg.html)
Condenser.
The two line going in to the condenser. The rubber o rings didn't look so good...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0134_zpsfmwx58uc.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0134_zpsfmwx58uc.jpg.html)
So replaced them with ones from our generic set....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0135_zps1moavmmx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0135_zps1moavmmx.jpg.html)
Special o rings just for R134a. I just put a little bit of PAG oil on them to lube them up before reassembly and I've not had a problem yet :y
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What year/engine was the fiesta webby ? wifes 04 1.25 fiesta could do with a new belt and it's a stretchy job
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It was a 2004 duratec 1.4. The type that has the bloody great air box over the engine :y
Looking at the kit the tool might work well for the PAS belt. But I'd use my method for the main beltas it's just a lot of faffing :y
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You can buy the special tools for these silly belts.
However...if you buy the little bit more expensive Conti kit it comes with them. I just so happen to have taken the tools and the instruction manual home ::) ;D"........
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0136_zpsfhuygyr1.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0136_zpsfhuygyr1.jpg.html)
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0137_zpsdxuaztv7.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0137_zpsdxuaztv7.jpg.html)
And the tools....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0138_zpsislj1gfx.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0138_zpsislj1gfx.jpg.html)
Hth mate :y
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Had this old motor in today....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0144_zpslzrdbeq1.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0144_zpslzrdbeq1.jpg.html)
I say old but it's the same age as my Omega; clearly not loved as much though.
So MOT failed. 2 x rear brake hoses. Washers providing insufficient washer fluid. And a couple of other miscellaneous bits.
I took on the brake hoses first. The NSR hose came off nice and easy....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0139_zpsvolzzzik.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0139_zpsvolzzzik.jpg.html)
Loosen the 14mm to the calliper. And the 11mm brake line fixing to the hose. The brake line fitting span independently of the brake line so I ran that out. Then twisted the old hose off the calliper. And quickly fitted new hose. Firstly wound it in to the calliper and tightened it. Then screwed the fitting in to the new hose. A can full of grease on the metal parts later and job done...
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0141_zpsae4zrsfu.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0141_zpsae4zrsfu.jpg.html)
Same couldn't be said of the other side. ;D the brake line fitting when turned was twisting the brake line with it. Normally I find this happens when the original steel lines have that plastic coating on. My solution: "kiss" it with a bit of heat. And have a bucket of water ready ;D
However in this case the line had been replaced in the past and the copper line had welded itself to the fitting. There was a join up ahead so my boss (he'd chosen this side ;D) twisted the 11mm fitting 'til it broke. Then fitted a new brake line. Took him about ten minutes to make and fit.... it'd have taken me around an hour ;D I'm not the quickest (or indeed the best at brake lines but I can do them. I just don't like them particularly).
Sooooooooo
Next item on the fail sheet. Washers providing insufficient washer fluid.
When you activated the washers it dribbled out. BUT. there seemed to be a pool of foam created just behind the washer jet on the near side. I thought I'd take a look at that first ;)
So the washer fluid reservoir was at the front of the engine bay on the near side. I followed the washer lines up and of course it fed the near side washer jet first followed in series by the offside jet.
The washer jets unclipped very easily from the bonnet. But there was this big stupid plastic thing in the way....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0142_zpsdxghrjot.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0142_zpsdxghrjot.jpg.html)
It was held on by two x Phillips head screws (you can see one in the pic) and a load of plastic clips. I took it off.............and still have no idea what it's for and why it was there :-\ ;D
So with that heap of shite out the way I found the issue. The near side washer jet had broken from the T-piece supplying it with washer fluid. It was an interference fit. And as it no longer "interfered" ;D I made a beautiful repair 8) (in my opinion of course ;))
Got some heat shrink. Melted it on the washer jet. It then slid in beautifully snug in to the T-piece. And of course now that had stopped leaking it was feeding full fluid to the offside also. Job done. I did however recommend that if it started doing that in the future then a new T-piece and/or washer jet may be needed. But for now..... a beautiful repair ;D
Difficult to see but here's a pic of the plastic washer jet assembly....
(http://i1226.photobucket.com/albums/ee402/webbybear1/IMG_0143_zpsesoyaugh.jpg) (http://s1226.photobucket.com/user/webbybear1/media/IMG_0143_zpsesoyaugh.jpg.html)
Just unclips and pops out. :y
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Ps guys. Are you seeing my photos or are they coming up with a message saying I need to update my account to share the photos? Lol
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Ps guys. Are you seeing my photos or are they coming up with a message saying I need to update my account to share the photos? Lol
You need to update your account lol ::)
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Ps guys. Are you seeing my photos or are they coming up with a message saying I need to update my account to share the photos? Lol
You need to update your account lol ::)
Hmmm, just went to a website asking for my cred. card details. Errrr no thanks. ill get something else instead :y
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https://s25.postimg.org/54ronvlfz/IMG_0144.jpg
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(https://s25.postimg.org/54ronvlfz/IMG_0144.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rtgvng2tn/)
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https://s25.postimg.org/6vappd2z3/IMG_0141.jpg
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<a href='https://postimg.org/image/5t0j6tk5n/' target='_blank'><img src='https://s25.postimg.org/6vappd2z3/IMG_0141.jpg' border='0' alt='IMG_0141'/>
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(https://s25.postimg.org/5t0j6tk5n/IMG_0141.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5t0j6tk5n/)
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(https://s25.postimg.org/6vappd2z3/IMG_0141.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5t0j6tk5n/)
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Right sorry for all the posts but just checking my new photo site works ;D
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So I THINK I finally got this photo 'dangle berries' sorted ;D
First job in today.... DPF pressure sensor on a 2.5 Transporter. I didn't diagnose this. I was on my own today so was just following part fitting orders today.
There are two pipes (I believe) coming out of the DPF and they go to rubber hoses up through the back of the engine up to the sensor up top just behind the orange connector on this photo....
(https://s25.postimg.org/9rv14xrnz/IMG_0147.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/qfmj7fmff/)
A close up... held to a bracket by a T30. One electrical connection. And two hoses connecting to the sensor....
(https://s25.postimg.org/xgaj07o7j/IMG_0145.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/y5tbckoqz/)
Cleared the fault code. Sent it on its way :y
Then a set of pads on a Volvo V40 "R". Basically just a Ford set up.... two x 7mm Allen for the slide pins. Inner pad pushes in to the calliper piston. And a big anti-rattle spring clip....
(https://s25.postimg.org/x7cyaabf3/IMG_0148.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/bkxxt9cuj/)
And then finally as I had pretty much fek all in I gave my dog a full service ;D
(https://s25.postimg.org/4j007298v/IMG_0150.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/et2f6az4b/)
No plugs or fuel filter as I replaced them earlier this year. So today was oil, filter, air filter and cabin filter. I was surprised that the air filter that came out after a year had virtually no debris in it. Yet the cabin filter (also fitted a year ago) was full of shite! Lol
Tyre pressures, coolant top up ::), pas fluid was bang on and 5L of washer fluid. DONE!
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So the lads. Been a manic week so far. And am in 6 days. Grrrr.
Had three cars in this week that needed the following stupid Citroen droplinks....
(https://s25.postimg.org/6vsb4703z/IMG_0108.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jn6hap9vv/)
I don't bother trying to buzz them off. No point. Three cuts and they're off.
They attach to the lower arm and then to the ARB... the hole left....
(https://s25.postimg.org/a1cwueiq7/IMG_0109.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/tj7kacfnv/)
Then a rear wheel bearing on a Nissan note. Piece of piss. Drum off. Circlip out...
(https://s25.postimg.org/egvbznv4f/IMG_0111.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/6bda1i6vf/)
Then press the old one out....
(https://s25.postimg.org/559a2pikv/IMG_0110.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/g4uheb8zv/)
Normally these come out with around 4K tons of force. This one decided it wanted 9k ton of force. Very squeaky bum time ;D
The old one the rubber had broke away. Possibly from a garage before (not us) over tightening the nut :-\(https://s25.postimg.org/j1hieletr/IMG_0112.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5kkjvq4i3/)
Then clutch bleed on an old Volvo P summat or other :-\
(https://s25.postimg.org/j07kl6czz/IMG_0113.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5w208hky3/)
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Hi guys, haven't been about much. A death inthe family and just generally working my testicles off. :'( managed to take a few photos though of some random jobs I've done.
So vw's most stupid pollen filter (2015 golf 'R'). Got to remove the glovebox which isn't normally a problem. Except they tuck the glovebox trim under the trim for the console and that doesn't want to be parted. When you do get the glovebox out you're greeted with every single wire the car uses and have just enough adds for the filter. Idiots.
(https://s25.postimg.org/ekvrlazpr/IMG_0118.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/dvcz8xz63/)
A newish Audi A4 for wing mirror replacement. Sadly the door trim had to come off as the wiring for the mirror connects behind the door card. But as it's Audi the card pops back on nicely.
(https://s25.postimg.org/5sesxmekv/IMG_0119.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5fnerfwaz/)
Front pads on a merc summat or other. Same set up as the omega rears.
(https://s25.postimg.org/r0shf1t1r/IMG_0120.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ux5tb1e17/)
Then on a lovely Sunday I went and watched this idiot win the British gp. Normally only go to practise but saved up and went to race day this year. Absolutely loved it. Kimis tyre blow out as right in front of us. And thenvettel had his on luffield so we saw him coming round with sparks flying off ;D
(https://s25.postimg.org/e4ajyvbyn/IMG_0122.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/712oj96iz/)
Ac compressor replacement on a golf. The old unit wasn't a surcharge oddly so decided to take it apart 😀
(https://s25.postimg.org/ftjn6xrnz/IMG_0123.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/jd5kwqudn/)
Condenser on a fiat grande punto. Bumper off. Undo lines. Uncoil it from its plastic housing. Easy
(https://s25.postimg.org/k3yb2iwr3/IMG_0124.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ps4ltf13f/)
(https://s25.postimg.org/pbje6zdcf/IMG_0125.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/5toqr1gej/)
(https://s25.postimg.org/9wfrq4aj3/IMG_0126.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/8u5l7krpn/)
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All interesting stuff especially the gizzards of the compressor.
Glad you enjoyed the F1.