Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: DrAndyB on 04 June 2017, 16:01:56
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Hi all,
I am a HAPPY CHAP :) ALL FIXED :y :y :y
Swapping the ABS ECU has restored all my Speedo Related functions (Speedo, Cruise, Trip computer etc...)
A BIG thanks to the OOF and the kind members who have helped me on the earlier posts and Private Messages :y You know who you are so much appreciated :y
I would also like to mention a special thanks to Terry for services (and parts) rendered - You are a true Gentleman.
Below (After a few hours of cursing, lost skin and numerous other expletives) for those interested is a pic of the ECU which I removed from my 2.5V6 Manual - MFL - V Plate.
Given the corrosion on the top, I suspect some has got inside and rendered the famous Speed signal Pin 23 'Iffy' :-\ I was going to see if I can open it up - Any experience ? Are they simple to open (and then close !).
Thanks again all - The power of the OOF strikes again and the old girl is back on the road (washed and tucked away in garage in the cool this afternoon ;))
ECU Removed - Note slight corrosion on the top :-\
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z436/andybeddoes/IMG_20170604_153720.jpg)
Part number of ECU Removed (Blood and sweat marks removed for clarity ;D)
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z436/andybeddoes/IMG_20170604_153640.jpg)
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Job well jobbed :y
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Job well jobbed :y
Indeed - I am having a much needed "Cool Refreshment Beverage" :y :y :y
I feel almost as if I have been on a rights of passage - Them damned 6 screws :D
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I have opened one up, and theoretically, may be able to get them repaired / rebounded at work. The problem is its filled with rubbery gel type stuff to presumably to prevent interference with it.
I don't know how BBA reman get over this hurdle this. Possibly a chemical which dissolves the gel without harming anything else ?
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I have opened one up, and theoretically, may be able to get them repaired / rebounded at work. The problem is its filled with rubbery gel type stuff to presumably to prevent interference with it.
I don't know how BBA reman get over this hurdle this. Possibly a chemical which dissolves the gel without harming anything else ?
In that case I may just leave it and keep as a spare (but not working !) and if needed again I can send that one off for repair (assuming I get over the trauma of changing it and them damned 6 screws ! ;D) . No point in me prying open and making a Horlicks of it ! best sending an "Intact" one off to the professionals in my opinion :y
I believe the gel is a sort of dampening as the connections can be quite small and fragile.
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I have opened one up, and theoretically, may be able to get them repaired / rebounded at work. The problem is its filled with rubbery gel type stuff to presumably to prevent interference with it.
I don't know how BBA reman get over this hurdle this. Possibly a chemical which dissolves the gel without harming anything else ?
We've sent a couple of ABS ECUs to BBA. They've come back fine. In comparison to one of the other lads I'm just a "fitter" ;D but he reckons they do summat with the software to remove the issue as opposed to actually rebuilding anything. Obviously in this case that's prob not the case but the ones I'm talking about are for ABS lights on.
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Great news! Well done the forum, especially DG, for the depth of experience and advice. It was certainly a new fault to me. And congratulations to DrAndyB for getting it apart and replacing it. It's not so bad, is it, when you have the courage to release the brake pipes and heave the whole unit up?
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My understanding is that the problems are caused by the very fine bonded wires breaking, and new wires need to be bonded into the unit to replace them. By very fine I mean probably finer than a human hair.
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Great news! Well done the forum, especially DG, for the depth of experience and advice. It was certainly a new fault to me. And congratulations to DrAndyB for getting it apart and replacing it. It's not so bad, is it, when you have the courage to release the brake pipes and heave the whole unit up?
Indeed :y, and thanks to DG I am now a Level 2 at Haynes Wiring Diagrams ;)
Will study for my Haynes Level 3 next week after I have some fresh skin on my hands after the ABS ECU Fight !
Your method worked a treat Terry - I did have a fight with the Coolant hose and damned Power Steering pipes, but I won in the end :y
At one point the Power Steering reservoir as about to be taken out with vengeance, but I calmed down and had a cuppa.
However, I think I may need to replace the power steering fluid perhaps as it did look a bit brown and murky ? Not sure if that's normal ? If not, it is easy to replace the fluid as I can assure you its the original fluid in there !
Also, I may try to get some new wrapping on the various wiring looms as its a but "Flaky" in bits - Any recommend products for this ?
Glad to get back to work tomorrow for a rest ;D
Andy.
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Glad you're sorted - I was watching this with interest. :y
Re tidying up the wiring loom - I've always used a rubberised tape "self amalgating" - I think Marlins sell it for about a fiver a roll.
As you unwind it from the reel it has a disposable layer which stops it sticking to the next layer. Cut off a piece about 6 inch long and then stretch & wrap it around the bundle. It sticks to itself when stretched & after a while (hours) its virtually impossible to unwrap as it's amalgamated to itself. It's used for protecting outdoor cable joints. Cut a short length & practice on one of your fingers!
Good luck
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Hi all,
I am a HAPPY CHAP :) ALL FIXED :y :y :y
Swapping the ABS ECU has restored all my Speedo Related functions (Speedo, Cruise, Trip computer etc...)
A BIG thanks to the OOF and the kind members who have helped me on the earlier posts and Private Messages :y You know who you are so much appreciated :y
I would also like to mention a special thanks to Terry for services (and parts) rendered - You are a true Gentleman.
Below (After a few hours of cursing, lost skin and numerous other expletives) for those interested is a pic of the ECU which I removed from my 2.5V6 Manual - MFL - V Plate.
Given the corrosion on the top, I suspect some has got inside and rendered the famous Speed signal Pin 23 'Iffy' :-\ I was going to see if I can open it up - Any experience ? Are they simple to open (and then close !).
Thanks again all - The power of the OOF strikes again and the old girl is back on the road (washed and tucked away in garage in the cool this afternoon ;))
ECU Removed - Note slight corrosion on the top :-\
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z436/andybeddoes/IMG_20170604_153720.jpg)
Part number of ECU Removed (Blood and sweat marks removed for clarity ;D)
(http://i1189.photobucket.com/albums/z436/andybeddoes/IMG_20170604_153640.jpg)
Back in the days when I ran Citroens and Peugeots I used to open up ECUs regularly, looking for cracked solder joints. I found some too, and cured faults with a touch of a soldering iron. This has never worked on a Vauxhall, perhaps GM use a better solder alloy less prone to cracking.
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Good work. Glad it's solved it
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Its not software, it is indeed a pair of bond wires that fail on the 5.3 ABS unit, the more common Teves MK60 issue is also a bond wire fault on the pressure sensor (used on loads of vehicles from VAG to VX and causes the traction control/EPS light to come on)
There not that small, easily visible with the naked eye.
Have seen them repaired with a fine soldering iron before:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UqtowdSDbxU
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Proximity to the exhaust manifold really does it no favours...
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Proximity to the exhaust manifold really does it no favours...
Cant see that being any issue in this case to be fair, I suspect the bond wires simply fail due to being a bit on the fat side (due to the current) and the vibration they get. :y
You see the same fault on BMW's, VAGs etc etc.
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E39 one gets roasted... Even the inner wings are too hot to touch after a decent run, what heat shield is fitted does next to nothing :D