Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cam.in.head on 30 July 2017, 16:57:24
-
Hi. Can someone please advise part number for v6 front crank pulley bolt please.(centre)many thanks
-
24465607 :y
-
Many thanks for that.il order one tommorow ( unless you have one !) from my local dealer
-
I do but it's still attached to my spare engine :D
-
Why do you need one?
The only time I've needed one was when I'd not tightened the crank pulley properly & it came out :-[ ..... it confused me as to how the timing had gone so far out of timing ...... CIH Cavalier & the dizzy drive gear had come out of mesh. ???
-
I need one because its on an omega v6. Extremely tight .broke 3 ends trying to remove it.the actual 1/2" socket square end ! .so just sliced its head off .never had one come loose on a cih thou.the steel pulley ones are usually undoable but the cast pulleys like on manta gte or carlton 2.2 are always tight.just rung dealer. No problem £7 ish next day.
-
.......never had one come loose on a cih thou......
I was rushing the job & I don't think I'd tightened it properly
-
What is the right way, tool and direction to remove this bolt? I would like to change the front oil seal.
-
Make a tool that sits against the water pump and bolts on the crank gear with the pulley bolts. Then just brute force with a breaker bar and off it comes. Easy enough :)
I can take a pic of my ghetto tool that I used for the crank bolt tomorrow.
-
Make a tool that sits against the water pump and bolts on the crank gear with the pulley bolts. Then just brute force with a breaker bar and off it comes. Easy enough :)
I can take a pic of my ghetto tool that I used for the crank bolt tomorrow.
That's exactly how I did mine. A bit of thought and a couple of extra holes in the tool will enable you to draw the pulley off easily.
I have a drawing with the dimensions if it would help.
-
Just done mine and the bolt was very tight. There was no way that it would come undone with a long extension scaffold pole and two people. Just ended up snapping three 1/2" ends clean off three different makes of tool. I found the easiest way was just to slice the bolt head off with a thin angle grinder cutting disc.maybee someone had had it off before and tightened it too much who knows.no signs of any loctite and shouldnt be !. Even with the amount of force required to re tighten(185lbs + 45 deg + 15 deg angle tighten) i myself would not be happy putting this amount of force held against the waterpump even if i was replacing it. One crack/ split casing and the crank will move round suddenly. , ! Please no offence to anyone who does it this way but not for me
-
Just done mine and the bolt was very tight. There was no way that it would come undone with a long extension scaffold pole and two people. Just ended up snapping three 1/2" ends clean off three different makes of tool. I found the easiest way was just to slice the bolt head off with a thin angle grinder cutting disc.maybee someone had had it off before and tightened it too much who knows.no signs of any loctite and shouldnt be !. Even with the amount of force required to re tighten(185lbs + 45 deg + 15 deg angle tighten) i myself would not be happy putting this amount of force held against the waterpump even if i was replacing it. One crack/ split casing and the crank will move round suddenly. , ! Please no offence to anyone who does it this way but not for me
I assume there's enough shank left, to grip and remove?
-
Yes the bolt is about 90mm long but only uses the first 20 or so mm to tighten onto. Bolt unscrews by hand once head is off
-
Thanks for comments, picks are welcome if found easily.
Yes, and the direction? Normal right hand?
-
don't understand why a bolt will move by hand when the head has been cut off?
-
don't understand why a bolt will move by hand when the head has been cut off?
A bolt thread is a wedge wrapped around a cylinder. Screwing the bolt up tight stretches it. If you then cut the head off, the tension and therefore the stretch is lost and you can easily unscrew what's left. This doesn't work if the bolt won't undo due to a knackered thread!
-
don't understand why a bolt will move by hand when the head has been cut off?
It's the back of a bolt head that you pull against to tighten it ..... assuming it doesn't bottom out first into a blind hole.
-
Thanks I can see it now :y
-
It's streath bolt so ones you grind head off you take tension of bolt
Simple as that
I find gas torch do job every time , new bolt only cost £6 from Gm
-
It's streath bolt so ones you grind head off you take tension of bolt
Simple as that
I find gas torch do job every time , new bolt only cost £6 from Gm
Two way's of looking at that :
1 : There is no such thing as a stretch bolt - it's a normal bolt that has been tightened past yield.
2 : All bolts are stretch bolts - if you tighten any bolt past yield they will stretch permanently.
If you cut the head off any bolt you will relieve the tension in the shank which should make it easier to remove - provided it hasn't been Loktite-ed or rusted/corroded in.
Stretch bolt is a misnomer for a bolt where the manufactures installation spec deliberately takes the bolt past yield, and is usually identified by a tightening spec of X Nm + Y Degrees. It is unwise to re-use a bolt that has been tightened past yield.
-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint
-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint
Very interesting. Looking back, when changing front wishbones I have always got away with not changing the mounting bolts, and come to no harm, and and similarly when replacing front brake calipers.
I enjoyed the final sentence in Wikipedia 'Each method has a range of uncertainties associated with it, some of which are substantial.'