Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: V6 CDX-er on 30 December 2017, 10:50:49
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As per the thread title chaps. What are the common obvious and hidden areas in which late model F/L Omegas tend to rust?
I've done a forum search and the most recent thread on this topic that I could find was back in 2008, so I wondered if any more problem areas had become apparent?
As my old 2003 CDX was rust free, I'm a bit in the dark about this, although the rear arches and the bottom of the doors seems to be an often quoted area of concern. Anywhere else I need to look out for, especially hard to spot areas?
Also, do a lot of VX dealers still honour the Autobahnstormers trade card, and have the price of parts changed much in the last six years?
In advance, many thanks.
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Sills easily go... as per my thread from this month:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=141379.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=141379.0)
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Estates the tail gates go in the centre at the top, wheel arches on saloons and estates can be a weak point as well at the rear.
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Also front chassis rails around where the subframe bolts on.
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Also front chassis rails around where the subframe bolts on.
Ah. That's not good.
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Sills easily go... as per my thread from this month:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=141379.0 (http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=141379.0)
Cheers Tunnie. I'll have a read of that later on.
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Also front chassis rails around where the subframe bolts on.
Ah. That's not good.
every one I've looked at in the last couple of years has had crusty patches here. Which is much bigger problem than the outer sills and wheel arches that are most people's concern. Sills can be economically patched up for another couple of years use, or replaced properly for a longer lasting repair.
Considering that the rear suspension subframe mounts tie into the sill/wheel arch/floor/seatbelt mount, I would suggest thorough investigation there with your favourite pokey tool.
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the front part just in front of the radiator. jacking points (garage lift area) front.
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I had a rear shock absorber burst through into the boot still attached to its mounting. That was in a 2000 saloon, deemed beyond economic repairand promptly scrapped.
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I had a rear shock absorber burst through into the boot still attached to its mounting. That was in a 2000 saloon, deemed beyond economic repairand promptly scrapped.
Things like this put me off LPG’ing my 3.2.
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surely the simple answer is ......
everywhere ::)
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It seems to be something of a "luck of the draw" situation.Mine recently failed the M.o.T. on rust where the subframe bolts on the rear arches are starting to go.However the doors are fine as are the damper top mounts in the boot[I've checked]what the sills are like I've no real idea as I've never had the covers off.Mines a year 2000 F/L saloon by the way.
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It seems to be something of a "luck of the draw" situation.Mine recently failed the M.o.T. on rust where the subframe bolts on the rear arches are starting to go.However the doors are fine as are the damper top mounts in the boot[I've checked]what the sills are like I've no real idea as I've never had the covers off.Mines a year 2000 F/L saloon by the way.
Humm. Concerning subframe bolt area is that bad. :(
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It seems to be something of a "luck of the draw" situation.Mine recently failed the M.o.T. on rust where the subframe bolts on the rear arches are starting to go.However the doors are fine as are the damper top mounts in the boot[I've checked]what the sills are like I've no real idea as I've never had the covers off.Mines a year 2000 F/L saloon by the way.
Shock turrets rot from the outside in...
Clean and inspect carefully when replacing rear shocks... treat according to what you find...
Typical first impression...
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/IMG_20150426_141321_zpskiorxllj.jpg
Post cleaning...
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/IMG_20150426_161345_zpskrotxl7c.jpg
Post treated...
http://i1277.photobucket.com/albums/y486/05omegav6/IMG_20150426_164524_zpstcnf5swx.jpg
Finish with stonechip and reassemble ;)
Saloons much more prone to rot here by design... estate rear shocks are mounted much further inboard and simply don't get caked in as much shite :y
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I had a rear shock absorber burst through into the boot still attached to its mounting. That was in a 2000 saloon, deemed beyond economic repairand promptly scrapped.
Things like this put me off LPG’ing my 3.2.
Any car it your price range is going to be approaching 10yrs old, and you're at the mercy of how well previous owners have looked after not just the paintwork, but also underneath.
As you've found out, just splashing a bit of water over the visible bodywork once a month doesn't really protect the car.
You need to inspect the car, then make decisions based on that. At least you know either way. But remember a 10yr old XF bought on finanace doesn't guarantee serious corrosion free for the length of the loan ;)
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I had a rear shock absorber burst through into the boot still attached to its mounting. That was in a 2000 saloon, deemed beyond economic repairand promptly scrapped.
Things like this put me off LPG’ing my 3.2.
Any car it your price range is going to be approaching 10yrs old, and you're at the mercy of how well previous owners have looked after not just the paintwork, but also underneath.
As you've found out, just splashing a bit of water over the visible bodywork once a month doesn't really protect the car.
You need to inspect the car, then make decisions based on that. At least you know either way. But remember a 10yr old XF bought on finanace doesn't guarantee serious corrosion free for the length of the loan ;)
An XF on finance would see me looking at 2013 ish examples :y
Really need to wait for Sky/Fox/Disney to resolve, before I make a decision.