Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Doctor Gollum on 09 August 2018, 10:58:03
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The verdict:
Front top mounts are shot, rear springs heavily corroded.
Remainder of suspension generally tired.
Exhaust back box on last legs.
Some general underbody corrosion, otherwise the rest is perfectly serviceable.
A quick tot up suggests about £530 in bits to sort the shit list.
Actual MoT not due until November so plenty of time to get done (and for other things to crop up...).
Garage have suggested that I book it in on the day it's due rather than early, ie next week, on the basis that if it fails it will become immediately unusable, no 'pretend it hasn't been tested and using the car until previous test expires' as before.
I am thinking do the immediate bits then get it tested so that I know I have another year or more from it rather than chance it. Equally I could just drive it until November and save and plan to replace it then...
Decisions, decisions...
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Garage have suggested that I book it in on the day it's due rather than early, ie next week, on the basis that if it fails it will become immediately unusable, no 'pretend it hasn't been tested and using the car until previous test expires' as before.
Its about time these garages actually learnt and understood the MOT rules (which are not hard!)
Item result
What it means about the item
How it affects the MOT result
Dangerous A direct and immediate risk to road safety or has a serious impact on the environment.
Do not drive the vehicle until it’s been repaired. Fail
Major It may affect the vehicle’s safety, put other road users at risk or have an impact on the environment.
Repair it immediately. Fail
Minor No significant effect on the safety of the vehicle or impact on the environment.
Repair as soon as possible. Pass
Advisory It could become more serious in the future.
Monitor and repair it if necessary. Pass
Pass It meets the minimum legal standard.
Make sure it continues to meet the standard. Pass
The only 'no drive' ones are dangerous and that is actually the same as its always been....... :y
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To be fair to the garage, any dangerous items is what they said and meant about not driving the car away. The chap actually winked as he said this... ::)
For the purpose of this exercise, I simply typed 'fail'.
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The only difference between the day before the test and the day after is that on the day after you are potentially knowingly driving a car with defects. That perhaps has implications should the unthinkable happen, but, in either case, the car has a valid MOT.
So, is it better to kid yourself that the defects don't exist until the day before the MOT expires and then have a load of hassle trying to get it fixed while you've got no transport or get them fixed earlier? ::)
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The verdict:
Front top mounts are shot, rear springs heavily corroded.
Remainder of suspension generally tired.
Exhaust back box on last legs.
Some general underbody corrosion, otherwise the rest is perfectly serviceable.
A quick tot up suggests about £530 in bits to sort the shit list.
Actual MoT not due until November so plenty of time to get done (and for other things to crop up...).
Garage have suggested that I book it in on the day it's due rather than early, ie next week, on the basis that if it fails it will become immediately unusable, no 'pretend it hasn't been tested and using the car until previous test expires' as before.
I am thinking do the immediate bits then get it tested so that I know I have another year or more from it rather than chance it. Equally I could just drive it until November and save and plan to replace it then...
Decisions, decisions...
Not sure they can fail them for being rusty,incomplete yes but rusty would fail the springs on most cars on the road ::)
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The verdict:
Front top mounts are shot, rear springs heavily corroded.
Remainder of suspension generally tired.
Exhaust back box on last legs.
Some general underbody corrosion, otherwise the rest is perfectly serviceable.
A quick tot up suggests about £530 in bits to sort the shit list.
Actual MoT not due until November so plenty of time to get done (and for other things to crop up...).
Garage have suggested that I book it in on the day it's due rather than early, ie next week, on the basis that if it fails it will become immediately unusable, no 'pretend it hasn't been tested and using the car until previous test expires' as before.
I am thinking do the immediate bits then get it tested so that I know I have another year or more from it rather than chance it. Equally I could just drive it until November and save and plan to replace it then...
Decisions, decisions...
Not sure they can fail them for being rusty,incomplete yes but rusty would fail the springs on most cars on the road ::)
If corroded to the extent that the CSA is reduced, weakening the spring (unlikely, never seen it on a modern car) but in fail criteria in the manual.
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The suggestion was that they are clearly corroded, and could last anything from five minutes to a year.
When I gave it a going over after buying it, the springs looked past their best. Yes they still work, but the car sounds like it has done every one of its 170k.
Nothing pointed out today came as a surprise and I don't object to replacing wear parts if the rest of the car is fundamentally sound.
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A replacement new spring could last anything from five minutes to a year. or 10 years :D who knows
do new springs come with any warranty :-\ would the garage fit under warranty :-\
but you replaced the clutch and serviced it and did the air con, so it sounds like it's worth spending a bit of dollar on
better the devil you know for 500 in repairs
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Well, the aircon lasted two days, so that clearly needs work ::)
But, yes, once done it will be mechanically sound for a good while :y