Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: raywilb on 31 January 2019, 13:20:55
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going to renew the crankshaft seal (front). where can i get an installing drift ?? there are some kits on ebay ,but nothing when i specify 2.2 dti omega.
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Suitably sized socket :-\
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Wot he said. ^ :y
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Are you using any magic technique for removing the pulley apart from brute force, and how are you locking the crankshaft?
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Are you using any magic technique for removing the pulley apart from brute force, and how are you locking the crankshaft?
crank sensor out , t.d.c insert locking pin (may have to turn crank slightly so the pin goes right in with no play on the crankshaft) advise to use new bolt. i have the locking gear for this engine. :y
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Suitably sized socket :-\
i would need a 68mm or thereabouts my biggest socket is a 36mm that i use for the oil filter housing.
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Beanz can?
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Are you using any magic technique for removing the pulley apart from brute force, and how are you locking the crankshaft?
crank sensor out , t.d.c insert locking pin (may have to turn crank slightly so the pin goes right in with no play on the crankshaft) advise to use new bolt. i have the locking gear for this engine. :y
You're going to use the timing locking pin to loosen the crank nut :o That's unlikely to end well......
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Are you using any magic technique for removing the pulley apart from brute force, and how are you locking the crankshaft?
crank sensor out , t.d.c insert locking pin (may have to turn crank slightly so the pin goes right in with no play on the crankshaft) advise to use new bolt. i have the locking gear for this engine. :y
You're going to use the timing locking pin to loosen the crank nut :o That's unlikely to end well......
having thought i explained that i am locking the crank with a crank locking pin . a 24mm socket on the bolt, breaker bar attached ( may need to slip a scaffold pole over the breaker bar ) having done 3 in the past i am sure i will manage. A new pulley was only put on by myself last summer. at that time the seal didnt appear to have a leak
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Beanz can?
I doubt they'd have the inner strength .... ::)
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Suitably sized socket :-\
That'd be some socket ..... ??? ;D
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I probably have one :'(
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I probably have one :'(
Presumably from the train set...
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Are you using any magic technique for removing the pulley apart from brute force, and how are you locking the crankshaft?
crank sensor out , t.d.c insert locking pin (may have to turn crank slightly so the pin goes right in with no play on the crankshaft) advise to use new bolt. i have the locking gear for this engine. :y
You're going to use the timing locking pin to loosen the crank nut :o That's unlikely to end well......
having thought i explained that i am locking the crank with a crank locking pin . a 24mm socket on the bolt, breaker bar attached ( may need to slip a scaffold pole over the breaker bar ) having done 3 in the past i am sure i will manage. A new pulley was only put on by myself last summer. at that time the seal didnt appear to have a leak
I probably have one :'(
Presumably from the train set...
the reason i really was wanting the proper fitting Drift is that spring on the inside edge of the actual seal are easily dislodged & once knocked into situ if the spring is dislodged one would be none the wiser & in a year or so the seal would start to leak again. the proper tool would alleviate that. but still cannot find one
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Is the seal location a removable piece?
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Is the seal location a removable piece?
not really because timing chain cover has torx bolts going into it from the sump , so means taking off oil pan & access to 4 rear bolts is a nightmare. also its hard to get the cover back with the head on , damage to the head gasket is inevitable. meanwhile i have eventually found what i have been looking for. :y :y
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A piece of suitable diameter plastic drain pipe would suffice and easily strong enough to do the job
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A piece of suitable diameter plastic drain pipe would suffice and easily strong enough to do the job
You could shape a piece of hardwood to a 1/4 or 1/3 of the diameter and carefully tap it in. The tricky bit is to start it square, but you have to do that with a cylindrical tool.
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So what was the solution, raywilb?
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So what was the solution, raywilb?
He took it to a garage, Bill. ;D
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Don't mock the afflicted, Steve.
I might have to commit "Hari Kari" and do the same myself soon.
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Anyone got a BIG socket? ::)
(https://i.postimg.cc/63qs4hv9/20190201-175948.jpg)
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Perfect candidate gently tapping in with a blunt aluminium or brass bar and a small hammer. Do that with blows 180° apart, then move round 90° and repeat. Taper bearing races - like wheel bearings - can be done the same way. Mechanics have this for years, as it's only worth having dedicated tooling(bought or made) if you do a lot of that particular size.
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Perfect candidate gently tapping in with a blunt aluminium or brass bar and a small hammer. Do that with blows 180° apart, then move round 90° and repeat. Taper bearing races - like wheel bearings - can be done the same way. Mechanics have this for years, as it's only worth having dedicated tooling(bought or made) if you do a lot of that particular size.
A piece oak or similar with a mallet I've also found worked well with carefully working round to drift it home. :y :y :y
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Piece of plastic waste pipe, is about right size.