Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: New POD on 25 February 2019, 22:08:48
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This probably isn't the section, but it does say "general help" and there are a few people who think I need general help.
So I bought my 3.2 MV6 in October 2016 with 163K on the clock.
It now has 209K on the clock. so about 400 miles a week.
The car has a few minor issues like erm
1) A tendancy to pull left slightly under braking (and skip right again a few moments after releasing the brake pedal)
- Having stripped the brake pads off and found one tight in the caliper, I thought a good clean up might cure it, but erm no.
- Whilst I still suspect the brakes to be a cause, I also suspect that the suspension might be erm somewhat worn.
2) Small oil leak from the crank sensor. I have a new seal. Just need to actually do the job.
3) Last summer, I had a few weeks where occasionally it would stick in 3rd. Stopping and turning it off and back on again solved the immediate issue. It hasn't done it since September last year. I have a new gearbox filter and sump gaskets, but erm time.
4) The hand brake need adjusting. erm no excuse.
5) It uses a little coolant. I'm not bothered by this. I check it every week and add a bit.
Over the time of my ownership it's had wishbones, drop links and steering arms, coil packs, cam belt, rocker gasket on one side, breathers cleaned out three times, (stupid design or what), front disc and pads, rear discs and pads. And lots of fully synthetic oil changes.
I'm about to ramp up the miles to 550 miles a week. Mostly M57, M62 and M6 South to Junction 15
Other than fixing what I know to be wrong, is there anything else I should be wary of ?
And am I mad ?
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I ran mine from 96k to 240k over a period of 5 years.
I serviced it thus:
10k Oil and filter.
20k Oil and filter, plugs, air filter, pollen filter.
60k Fuel filter.
80k cambelt and water pump.
Coolant was done with rad changes/accident repair, but roughly every 60k. HBV as required, but often enough to be a service item.
Pads as required and discs every three pad changes, hand brake shoes were still the original ones.
Shocks as required between 80 and 120k. Wishbones as required, droplinks, trackrods and geo set up each time, usually at WIM.
Exhaust, cat back as required.
Sorting item 1 on your list, essential for tyre wear and not causing an accident, is new wishbones and geometry. A complete suspension overhaul will set you back around £800.
Item 5 should be your second one as it will eventually be a big leak and these don't take kindly to running without coolant... you will cook the block in about a 1/4 mile at motorway speeds.
Item 4... if the handbrake doesn't work, the car shouldn't be on the road as it isn't capable of passing an MoT.
Item 2 can be largely ignored. Also not guaranteed to be from the crank.
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I find it hard to think why oil should leak from the crank sensor, as it's located in a dry cavity, even though it's been mentioned on the forums a few times in the past. If there's oil in that area, it's most likely got to be to do with the oil cooler pipes.
I learnt to my cost that it's not even worth considering a dodgy handbrake for yours and others safety... me forgetting to leave it in gear resulted in a lot of hard remedial work... never again thank you.
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The crank sensor protrudes into the crankcase as the reluctor ring with which it interfaces is mounted on the crank shaft.
It's therefore subject to lots of oil sloshing around and has an O ring to seal it to the block.
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The crank sensor protrudes into the crankcase as the reluctor ring with which it interfaces is mounted on the crank shaft.
It's therefore subject to lots of oil sloshing around and has an O ring to seal it to the block.
Thanks for clearing that one up :y must admit I've never noticed oil on the sensors before. You learn something new everyday.
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Item 4... if the handbrake doesn't work, the car shouldn't be on the road as it isn't capable of passing an MoT.
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Just because something won't pass an MOT is not always a reason to take a car off the road ..... eg air fresheners hanging from a mirror would fail an MOT or even a failed side/tail light but won't make the car unsafe.
Just thought ..... is this a 3 pedal car? :-\
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It's not just the handbrake though... The suspension clearly has issues as well... ::)
Oil leak is almost certainly the result of the filter housing seal weaping due to the casing becoming loose and re tightened... Easiest remedy is to replace with a spin on one.
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Sounds to me that fitting poly-bushes to the front wishbone bushes would go a long way to sort the pulling to one side under braking issue. :y
It's a fairly easy job and you don't need to remove the wishbones, so re-alignment is unnecessary after. :)
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Sounds to me that fitting poly-bushes to the front wishbone bushes would go a long way to sort the pulling to one side under braking issue. :y
It's a fairly easy job and you don't need to remove the wishbones, so re-alignment is unnecessary after. :)
Only true if the alignment was any good beforehand. Which is unlikely.
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1) A tendancy to pull left slightly under braking (and skip right again a few moments after releasing the brake pedal)
- Having stripped the brake pads off and found one tight in the caliper, I thought a good clean up might cure it, but erm no.
- Whilst I still suspect the brakes to be a cause, I also suspect that the suspension might be erm somewhat worn.
Before you do anything else please sort out the front brakes. Check the slider pins, especially the nearside. Clean and lubricate the pins, or better yet renew the pins and rubbers..
Any bluing or scoring of the disc(s) then renew the pads and both discs.
If the caliper is suspect then properly rebuild it, or install a good used or install a professionally rebuilt.
Also bleed and renew the brake fluid.
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1) A tendancy to pull left slightly under braking (and skip right again a few moments after releasing the brake pedal)
- Having stripped the brake pads off and found one tight in the caliper, I thought a good clean up might cure it, but erm no.
- Whilst I still suspect the brakes to be a cause, I also suspect that the suspension might be erm somewhat worn.
Before you do anything else please sort out the front brakes. Check the slider pins, especially the nearside. Clean and lubricate the pins, or better yet renew the pins and rubbers..
Any bluing or scoring of the disc(s) then renew the pads and both discs.
If the caliper is suspect then properly rebuild it, or install a good used or install a professionally rebuilt.
Also bleed and renew the brake fluid.
Slider pins and VERY free to move. Rubbers not damaged. No bluing or scoring of discs and pad wear more or less even.
All points taken on board. And will be acted on.
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1) A tendancy to pull left slightly under braking (and skip right again a few moments after releasing the brake pedal)
- Having stripped the brake pads off and found one tight in the caliper, I thought a good clean up might cure it, but erm no.
- Whilst I still suspect the brakes to be a cause, I also suspect that the suspension might be erm somewhat worn.
Before you do anything else please sort out the front brakes. Check the slider pins, especially the nearside. Clean and lubricate the pins, or better yet renew the pins and rubbers..
Any bluing or scoring of the disc(s) then renew the pads and both discs.
If the caliper is suspect then properly rebuild it, or install a good used or install a professionally rebuilt.
Also bleed and renew the brake fluid.
If it's pulling left on the brakes, then you look at the right side first. Because that one isn't working as well.
But, on a Mcpherson strut suspension you always look at the wishbone/lower arm/brake reaction arm/track control arm/whatever bushes, as they're always a weak spot. That applies to anything that has this type of suspension.