Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: cwill144 on 02 February 2020, 12:26:50
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After I finally got my car sorted, fitted another 3.0L Engine and all new brake pipes, suspension, etc took the car for a mile run all seemed good.
Next day went to start car, wouldn’t go, left it next day started first turn runs for about a minute then cuts out, will restart but keeps cutting out. This now happens every time.
I suspect it could be fuel had about 1/4 of a tank, have put in a couple more gallons, had a new fuel filter. Still the same. I changed the crank sensor still the same.
Any ideas would be great!!!
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Was the crank sensor a genuine one from a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to?
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No it was one I took out of the old engine I removed. Should I go to a dealer to buy one? I have found recently the don’t stock much now.
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If you want it to run, yes...
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Where would you recommend to get one from?
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Where would you recommend to get one from?
Vauxhall
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From a genuine Vauxhall dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to.
In case you missed it.
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Yes but I went to my Local dealer who said they are no longer available, so what dealer do you use?
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back to basics :-\
check fuel pressure ,maybe the pump is U/S
check for spark
is it x30xe BOSCH Motronic so paperclip test to read fault codes :-\
http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#bosch (http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#bosch)
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Yes but I went to my Local dealer who said they are no longer available, so what dealer do you use?
A more helpful than the one you spoke to... They should be able to check global stock. If they a) know how to, and B) can be bothered to :)
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back to basics :-\
check fuel pressure ,maybe the pump is U/S
check for spark
is it x30xe BOSCH Motronic so paperclip test to read fault codes :-\
http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#bosch (http://www.topbuzz.co.uk/info/fault_codes/fault_codes.htm#bosch)
If it starts, and runs albeit for a moment then the fuel pump is fine as that primes the fuel rail when the ignition is switched to pos 2. Fuel pump does not then run again until the ecu sees a signal from both crank sensor and cam sensor. With the correct signal, even a weak pump will allow it to idle... especially if it is providing enough fuel to prime the fuel rail.
It's classic dead crank sensor behaviour, but just to be sure, is the chip still in the key?
Also, saloon or estate? If estate, then you may need to add three or four gallons if it ran dry, especially if the car isn't level. Level it and see what happens.
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The car never ran out of fuel has been just below 1/4 tank, has sat for just over a year. It is a saloon, I added fuel to freshen up tank. I have fitted the second Crank sensor and it acts the same as when the original sensor was fitted. I got it to run for about 10 minutes yesterday then it cutout and would only run for a minute again.
I’ve ordered another sensor and will try the paper clip test.
I might have to give up with it and let it go.
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Could be mass air flow (MAF) sensor. To tset, simply unlug it and try again. Engine should run, with EML light on.
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The car never ran out of fuel has been just below 1/4 tank, has sat for just over a year. It is a saloon, I added fuel to freshen up tank. I have fitted the second Crank sensor and it acts the same as when the original sensor was fitted. I got it to run for about 10 minutes yesterday then it cutout and would only run for a minute again.
I’ve ordered another sensor and will try the paper clip test.
I might have to give up with it and let it go.
modern fuel is only good for a few weeks, any that is over a year old is useless. This is what kills lots of infrequently used garden engines.
Replacing the crank sensor is an expensive diversion unless you've completely drained the tank and replaced with a decent quantity of fresh fuel.
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The car never ran out of fuel has been just below 1/4 tank, has sat for just over a year. It is a saloon, I added fuel to freshen up tank. I have fitted the second Crank sensor and it acts the same as when the original sensor was fitted. I got it to run for about 10 minutes yesterday then it cutout and would only run for a minute again.
I’ve ordered another sensor and will try the paper clip test.
I might have to give up with it and let it go.
modern fuel is only good for a few weeks, any that is over a year old is useless. This is what kills lots of infrequently used garden engines.
Replacing the crank sensor is an expensive diversion unless you've completely drained the tank and replaced with a decent quantity of fresh fuel.
I've had that with the TDM I've had sat idle in my garage for a few years. I decided last year to start it. It turned over repeatedly with no signs of starting ... a cough & splutter every now & then. I'd replaced plugs. I got it to run, but it was very laboured & stalled when I tried to drive it.
I eventually drained what little fuel there was in in the tank, added a gallon of new petrol & it started first time! :y
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Being submerged for long periods in the nasty shit fuel turns to isn't good for the fuel pump either.