Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: terry paget on 02 February 2020, 16:54:05
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(https://www.dropbox.com/s/s5ozuiycmubmr7z/V828COOLANTLEAK.jpg?dl=1)
"No more groping!", said the wife. Puzzled I replied,"Those days are over".
I have a new coolant leak on my last Omega. Peering up at the left hand bottom end of the radiator I see a damp patch. I have changed radiators before, but this forum has advised me to do no more heavy jobs liable to bruise my hands, lest I suddenly drop dead. Bother.
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Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...
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Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...
Long way from Teesside (the nice bit). Or did you mean 'someone else'. ;D
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It's a bit of a hike, but you're welcome to bring it over here... ;)
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Terry, you've been here for so long, I'm sure someone local will pop over and do it for a brew and a bacon butty...
Long way from Teesside (the nice bit). Or did you mean 'someone else'. ;D
:D Definitely the latter...!
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If the radiator is dry above the level of the bleed screw (the red bit) then the problem is two O-rings on the bleed screw itself. (If it's wet above that then it's coming from somewhere else, of course)
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Halfords "little pack of O rings" used to fit the bleed screw perfectly , not sure now like !
Really helpful aren't I ;D
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If the radiator is dry above the level of the bleed screw (the red bit) then the problem is two O-rings on the bleed screw itself. (If it's wet above that then it's coming from somewhere else, of course)
I will check again, but I am pretty sure it was wet above the bleed screw. I have changed those O-rings on many an Omega in the past! They are 2 different sizes, aren't they?
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The plastic usually splits in the top corner, near the top hose, and runs down the side.
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The plastic usually splits in the top corner, near the top hose, and runs down the side.
(https://www.dropbox.com/s/s7zl23wlrg8gmi6/V828rad2.jpg?dl=1)
Quite right. It seemed to run all around the pipe, but on moving the hose back on the pipe, it appears to be a small hole right at the top. Proper repair is replace the radiator, but that involves groping; can I repair the small hole, if so, what is the best method - araldite, hot air gun, something else?;
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Those are all temporary bodges as the involve heat... And will fail once the radiator heats up ::)
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https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/#!/resin-gel-silicone-adhesive/epoxy-resin/very-high-temperature-epoxy-laminating-resin.html
Have a look at this stuff
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Now I am confused. In post#9 I moved the top hose back along the pipe to expose the leak better, but in a 2 hour idle only a tiny leak appeared. I took it for a 10 mile drive yesterday morning, and 12 miles Wells and back last night. no leak. 12 further miles this morning, still no coolant loss. Explain.
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No water left or thermostat didn't open. ;)
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Rocking the car I can see the coolant level is still correct. Heater blows hot, top hose is hot.
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probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again ;D
or moving the hose clamp has cured it
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probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again ;D
or moving the hose clamp has cured it
Maybe. I tried grasping the top hose firmly and wiggling it, but I could not reopen the crack.
It may be moving the clamp and hose has cured it, but it has not moved for 5 years, but only began to leak a month ago.
Beats me. All I can do is go on using it and see if it recurs.
Meanwhile, it is due MOT in April, already has an exhaust leak in the LH manifold region, and I was prepared to scrap it without more ado. If there is no coolant leak I am tempted to submit it for test and see how it gets on.
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probably closed the crack up and next time you sneeze it will leak again ;D
or moving the hose clamp has cured it
Maybe. I tried grasping the top hose firmly and wiggling it, but I could not reopen the crack.
It may be moving the clamp and hose has cured it, but it has not moved for 5 years, but only began to leak a month ago.
Beats me. All I can do is go on using it and see if it recurs.
Meanwhile, it is due MOT in April, already has an exhaust leak in the LH manifold region, and I was prepared to scrap it without more ado. If there is no coolant leak I am tempted to submit it for test and see how it gets on.
even if you pay to have the exhaust blow fixed or a few other jobs , may be cheaper than finding another car
better the devil you know :-\
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I have changed a RH exhaust manifold on a 2.5, not too bad a job, but the LH manifold is trickier, involving either removing engine from car, or LH cylinder head. I recall the studs into the head are liable to break off, requiring drilling out. Sounds expensive, if I can get a manifold. Of course, I am not sure it is a cracked manifold, but is certainly blowing from the noise. It might slip past a generous tester, but the worry then is emissions. For 20 year old car that cost me £259 5 years ago, it sounds unattractive.
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If you don't feel that is value for money, I don't know what else to say :-\
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Terry forgot to deduct the money returned when he scraps it
if the manual gearbox ,pedals etc was sold (buyer to remove) ,then sell or weigh in both cats to a specialist buyer like WARR
then sell the alloys ,then get a scrap man to pay Terry to collect what is left ...
Terry would be in profit by some margin ;D