Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 03 April 2020, 00:17:23
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I have, completely on impulse, bought a cheap, but seemingly very tidy Astra Estate, for not very much money.
It's a 2011 Astra "J", with the 1.7 CDTi engine, around 100,000 on the clock. Excellent MOT history.
Known fault - running poorly.
The owner, who has had the car from 2015 and is the second owner, said "It wasn't running good, the AA man came out, said it was on three cylinders, and could be an injector or DPF fault".
Anyone have any experience?
I will, naturally, start with a code read and methodically troubleshoot it, but I know nothing about these "modern fangled" diesels *
* in comparison to my old Omega!
That said, I managed a top end rebuild on a 6 Cylinder BMW530d previously, so I would like to think this won't beat me!
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..., the AA man came out, said it was on three cylinders, and could be an injector or DPF fault".
....
He'd not got a clue then .... ;D
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Uncle STEMO has encyclopedic knowledge of the Vauxhall Astra. :y
However if he's doing his daily shop at ASDA or walking the whippet, that hairy arsed builder fella seems to know a bit as well! :) 8)
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Start with a code read as you say James :y
common issues include the alternator clutch ,blowing exhaust flexi,leak off pipes,vac leaks etc
fuel filter never being replaced ;D
had 1 with no codes playing up and it finally threw a code for crank sensor ,replaced and been fine since
don't have any on the fleet with DPFs sorry
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Can't see how running on three could be a dpf fault, injector looks favourite.
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Probably need an injector with the same numbers on and then coded in to the car.
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Cam cover,.
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What is the score with coding the injectors on these? What’s needed, T2? Will it be injector work at all prior to coding?
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The tool that shall not be named worked fine for coding injectors on the Zafira
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Cheers JimBob :y
So letting the car idle - if you pull off the injector electrical connectors one by one, they all cause the engine to run worse - apart from no4
No4 injector makes no difference.
Using a multimeter on each plug, each one has consistent electrical pulses
Fair to say no4 goosed?
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Cheers JimBob :y
So letting the car idle - if you pull off the injector electrical connectors one by one, they all cause the engine to run worse - apart from no4
No4 injector makes no difference.
Using a multimeter on each plug, each one has consistent electrical pulses
Fair to say no4 goosed?
Sounds about right, just like pulling spark plugs. IIRC, and depending on which 1.7 you've got, they can be expensive. I should imagine there'd be quite a few scrappers knocking about, but you won't be able to get to them for a while.
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Cheers JimBob :y
So letting the car idle - if you pull off the injector electrical connectors one by one, they all cause the engine to run worse - apart from no4
No4 injector makes no difference.
Using a multimeter on each plug, each one has consistent electrical pulses
Fair to say no4 goosed?
Sounds about right, https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=1937783;topic=146571.0;last_msg=1937783#just like pulling spark plugs. IIRC, and depending on which 1.7 you've got, they can be expensive. I should imagine there'd be quite a few scrappers knocking about, but you won't be able to get to them for a while.
The scrappers charge silly money for parts these days. :-\
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Cheers JimBob :y
So letting the car idle - if you pull off the injector electrical connectors one by one, they all cause the engine to run worse - apart from no4
No4 injector makes no difference.
Using a multimeter on each plug, each one has consistent electrical pulses
Fair to say no4 goosed?
Sounds about right, https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?action=post;quote=1937783;topic=146571.0;last_msg=1937783#just like pulling spark plugs. IIRC, and depending on which 1.7 you've got, they can be expensive. I should imagine there'd be quite a few scrappers knocking about, but you won't be able to get to them for a while.
The scrappers charge silly money for parts these days. :-\
Been looking for second hand parts for your jag? ;D
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There are some bargains to be had on used bits... just need to shop around ;)
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
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A bloke at work needed a new injector for his Golf. It'd have been about £500 if the dealers had done it for him :o :o
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
Several decades at a guess, but you take my point.
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Start with a code read as you say James :y
common issues include the alternator clutch ,blowing exhaust flexi,leak off pipes,vac leaks etc
fuel filter never being replaced ;D
had 1 with no codes playing up and it finally threw a code for crank sensor ,replaced and been fine since
don't have any on the fleet with DPFs sorry
...and EGR Valves, not common but they do seem to have a failure age / mileage point and cleaning them is only every a temporary fix.
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Start with a code read as you say James :y
common issues include the alternator clutch ,blowing exhaust flexi,leak off pipes,vac leaks etc
fuel filter never being replaced ;D
had 1 with no codes playing up and it finally threw a code for crank sensor ,replaced and been fine since
don't have any on the fleet with DPFs sorry
...and EGR Valves, not common but they do seem to have a failure age / mileage point and cleaning them is only every a temporary fix.
yes , i think that's true of any EGR valve on any model car though
our highest mile diesel is only 110 K so not had EGR issues on either 1.7 CDTi yet :-X
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
I don't know..... :-\ He has a Signum. :D
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
I don't know..... :-\ He has a Signum. :D
He doesn't drive it though. He's under the illusion that it's an appreciating classic. It is, after all, the desirable 2.8.
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
I don't know..... :-\ He has a Signum. :D
He doesn't drive it though. He's under the illusion that it's an appreciating classic. It is, after all, the desirable 2.8.
It's probably feked and he needs to go to the local scrappy for some parts. ::) ;D
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I used to like the scrappers when you could fill your pockets with all manner of car parts and some deranged old scrapper with a mentally unstable dog would say 'Gis a quid mate'
Those days seem long gone. :-\
And long gone are the days when you needed to visit a scrapper.
I don't know..... :-\ He has a Signum. :D
He doesn't drive it though. He's under the illusion that it's an appreciating classic. It is, after all, the desirable 2.8.
It's probably feked and heUGLY , needs to go to the local scrappy for some parts. ::) ;D
Less is more Sir Tig :y
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I suppose a lot of people are envious of the mighty Signum. :)
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I suppose a lot of people are envious of the mighty Signum. :)
A lot of people may be envious of any car that's running soon.
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Well I've had a look at it, just going for a shower (I hate working on deisels!!!) and then I'll post up, with a couple of youtube vids
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Ok so I had a look at the beast today.
The first thing I did, was tighten up the downpipe to turbo joint. I remember when the car drove off the truck, there was a massive exhaust blow. I thought "That won't be helping things". Looking underneath, the nuts holding on the downpipe were all undone several turns, so the downpipe was sat about 0.5cm from the flange.
I nipped up the nuts, and thought "that will sound better".
I started her up, and heard this:
https://youtu.be/ds5FDkRa-Bo
Yes, a very loud, strange, unpleasant noise!
So I loosened the downpipe again, and the noise went away.
So there's clearly a massive issue (blockage) with the exhaust / cat / DPF? My question is, why!
It's led me to think - with the engine also unning on around 2.5 cylinders, has something (the turbo?) massively let go, and jammed the exhaust / hit the valve seats with shrapnel?
Or, maybe the car has been ran for some time with a misfire, which has slowly blocked the DPF?
When I removed the exhaust, (much to the neighbours delight I'm sure) it ran like this:
https://youtu.be/jC-bxxr_lNI
The nasty noise gone, but still misfiring. You can also see in the video, there's no change when no2 and 4 injector plugs are removed.
I've changed the No4 for a known good injector, but the issue remains the same.
I'm guessing next stage is a compression test, and maybe take the pipe off the turbo and see if I can see if It's in one peice!
Any advice gratefully received.
No fault codes stored at all in the Engine ECU. Although interestingly, with my tool that cannot be named, it connects, identifies the VIN etc, and will read and reset codes, but all of the live-data and programming options don't work. Wonder if it's a version issue. At the moment, I don't know how much it's been played around with, and if the correct injectors are coded to the ECU.
It looks like the rocker cover has been off not that long ago, so not sure I buy the guys story about breaking down and the AA coming out, and not attempting any sort of fix first. That said he's not a trader - it's been in his name for 5 years or so.
Any tips gratefully received on where to go from here.
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Hmmm I also wonder if these have swirl flaps that can Ingest into the valves ....
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does the code reader say what engine code it is ?
select the wrong engine code and "code reader" acts the way you describe
something is amiss with reading the data ,it should detect missfires etc
try a full module scan,vehicle identity , introduce faults (disconnect something) and see if it registers as a DTC
I'd remove the air intake pipe to turbo and have a wiggle inside (be careful ,there may be sharp edges )
as the rocker cover has been off previously, may be worth a peak
also can't rule out timing belt slip etc (seized tensioner roller) ,snapped cam or similar catastrophic fail
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Check the downpipe/DPF for a rag :-X
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Check the downpipe/DPF for a rag :-X
Do tell, Dr G, how would that get there :D
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Re the injectors. When I was having injector issues with my French hatchback, Dave the builder mentioned not ruling out the connectors to the injectors. I didn't take this too seriously until after a long time of searching and eliminating things, I found a problem with a connector to an injector and solved the problem in about 30 seconds.
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Check the downpipe/DPF for a rag :-X
Do tell, Dr G, how would that get there :D
Sucked through the turbo having been forgotten... Or placed in the down pipe to stop debris falling into it during other work.
Like people do when doing camcover/inlet work on the Omega ::)
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Cylinder number 4 - no compression at all. Zilch. Nada.
I'm quite confused about what would cause zero compression on one cylinder, on a fairly new diesel.
Timing belt slippage highly unlikely. I've had an initial look, belt seems in good shape, and taught - and if it slipped enough to destroy a valve, it would have taken more than one cylinder out!
Being a diesel engine, I would think valve burnout or seat recession would be extremely unlikely.
The only hypothesis I can come up with at this time, is that something (bit of the end of a glow plug / swirl flap if this car has them) has dropped into the cylinder.
It's worthy to mention that the compression tester I have is really for petrol cars, and I used it in the injector holes, so I couldn't get a decent reading for pots 1-3 - as the diesel compression is so much higher than a petrol car is was trying to blow the tester out of the hole.
But, the test was enough that I can tell beyond doubt, that pot no4 is goosed.
I've taken the turbo pipe off, there doesn't feel to be any missing blades, and the turbo spins freely without undue play.
What tree should I bark up now?
I hardly ever work on cars these days, and I struggle with confidence with anything that's not an Omega V6, so apologies in advance if I ask lots of questions!
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Back pressure could possibly damage the valves.
Pull the DPF and see what's blocking it ;)
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Back pressure could possibly damage the valves.
Pull the DPF and see what's blocking it ;)
That's a good point, Al!
When you say pull it, do you mean put something down the downpipe, and see if there's any foreign object in there? Or actually cut open the DPF discreetly, at the top, before emptying everything out of it and welding it back up ;D
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Drop it and look into the pipe from both ends. If it's clogged, then it will be apparent both ends, if someone had dropped a rag into it, then it may have been removed prior to refitting the pipe in an 'itwasn'tme' stylee.
Which given the fact the pipe was disconnected already...
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I'll have a crack at that tomorrow, DG. Sod all else I can do, I'm not working this weekend, and not allowed out anywhere! Just thankful I've got a nice long driveway where I can do my own thing!
I guess I'll also be removing a cylinder head :-X
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I guess I'll also be removing a cylinder head :-X
have a poke down the injector hole first and check you still have a piston in the cylinder :y
or check the valves from removing the rocker cover
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Just trying to get in there with any tools and parts I may need - thought I'll order now as they may take a few days to arrive!
Looking on the interweb I need to "pre tension" one of the camshafts (I'm guessing it's like a VVT setup?)
https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/engine/engine_mechanics_1.7l_diesel_(lpl_lpv_lub)/repair_instructions_off_vehicle/camshaft_installation/
I cannot find the "adjuster" tool listed here, anywhere online. Any ideas? Thanks chaps :y
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(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/1ca1c2af2664793473fb8db3.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/449354a41f3381243934b99c.jpg)
Hopefully you can see why I want to save it :y
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Certainly looks to be worth saving...…..even if it is a diseasel.
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I’ve found the problem. I’ll post up the results with photos later once I’ve showered and eaten etc :y
Top marks to anyone who can guess what is wrong :y
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Hopefully a cheap car cheaply fixed...
However I apologise for not getting excited about a nine year old, poorly maintained ex rental car... However shiny.
So the problem is probably FOD in the air management plumbing.
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Top marks to anyone who can guess what is wrong :y
The engine ? :-\ ;D
swirl flaps
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How can you tell it’s ex rental? I didn’t know that :y
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How can you tell it’s ex rental? I didn’t know that :y
It's clearly a fleet car in that spec... Enterprise or Budget would be my best guess, or that bodgit alarm outfit that Mark Alarmingman works for although I think they went for 1.3 diseasals, blue chip pool car (JLP) for example. ;)
No retail dealer worthy of employment would sell an Astra J with steel wheels... :D
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Flattened cam lobe,... chipped valve, snapped shaft.
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I’ve found the problem. I’ll post up the results with photos later once I’ve showered and eaten etc :y
Top marks to anyone who can guess what is wrong :y
Detached swirl flap holding a valve open (if your lucky !!)
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Come on James you must be starving by now ;D
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Glow plug leaking or missing,
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Broken rocker arm, cam pulley fitted wrong
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The huge-a-me-flip wasn't engaging with the thingybob properly! ;D
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The huge-a-me-flip wasn't engaging with the thingybob properly! ;D
Joking aside, is it the giggling pin or the laughing shaft?
Can't wait for the release of the official report.
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Just had a look at the video... glow plug out :y
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Not had time to upload pics. But as I suspected. The tip of no4 glow plug has dropped into the cylinder
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👍
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How much damage to piston/cylinder bore/ head ??? Recoverable or dead ... :(
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How much damage to piston/cylinder bore/ head ??? Recoverable or dead ... :(
Hi Nige
Head looks unscathed, but I will remove the valves for a close inspection
Piston is obliterated.
The bore is hard to say. All the pictures I take make it look deeply scored but that doesn’t represent how it appears to the naked eye
It looks to me as if something has melted against the inside of the bore, rather than deeply scoring it
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(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/2f17c3ee41e57e83b2d05c5c.jpg)
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Yup, that's broken alright ;D
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(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/2f17c3ee41e57e83b2d05c5c.jpg)
I expect Terry has some locktite to fix that.
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(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/2f17c3ee41e57e83b2d05c5c.jpg)
The scoring looks like alloy transfer from the piston,bit of emery cloth will make sure :y
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Possibly, but isn't the piston supposed to be the same shape as the cylinder... ::)
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Possibly, but isn't the piston supposed to be the same shape as the cylinder... ::)
Probably was once ;D,f the alloy has been peened by the bit of glowplug it could have caused rubbing on cylinder wall,time will tell :y
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Zoom in and have another look ;)
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I'm still trying to work out the photo ??? What's the round bit in the middle of the piston? And is the scoring at about the 10 o'clock position? :-\
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Zoom in and have another look ;)
I think I've sussed it ..... ::) ;D ;D ;D
James .... send the piston up & take another photo :y :y
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I'm still trying to work out the photo ??? What's the round bit in the middle of the piston? And is the scoring at about the 10 o'clock position? :-\
It's an extra special, super duper, superior diesel piston. Much better than your common or garden petrol one. ;D
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Casting to clear the injector nozzle/swirl pot.
Piston damage is around 6 o'clock clearly... chunks out of it
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I'm still trying to work out the photo ??? What's the round bit in the middle of the piston? And is the scoring at about the 10 o'clock position? :-\
It's an extra special, super duper, superior diesel piston. Much better than your common or garden petrol one. ;D
Petrol engines at our house outnumber my diseasal by at least 4 to 1 ;)
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Currently 50/50 here, all pretty evenly matched in capacity and cylinder number... The 330d is a bit quicker though :D
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Casting to clear the injector nozzle/swirl pot.
Piston damage is around 6 o'clock clearly... chunks out of it
Obviously not ;) If there's a chunk missing at the bottom, then it's also buggered up at around 1 or 2 o'clock ..... we need a better picture :y
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There's a clear chip to the left of the lower valve recess (as you look at it).
The reflection from the cylinder wall is uniform apart from a definite chip or three. The debris on the top side of the picture is masking potential damage there, but the reflected gap closes rather than opening.
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There's a clear chip to the left of the lower valve recess (as you look at it).....
Pah!
Many many years ago .... I removed the head of my MKIII Cortina, 1600 Pinto, (can't remember now why :-\) the piece missing from the top edge of the piston was quite noticeable/obvious. It was a piece that was about an inch long and down to the top piston ring! ::) ::)
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There's a clear chip to the left of the lower valve recess (as you look at it).....
Pah!
Many many years ago .... I removed the head of my MKIII Cortina, 1600 Pinto, (can't remember now why :-\) the piece missing from the top edge of the piston was quite noticeable/obvious. It was a piece that was about an inch long and down to the top piston ring! ::) ::)
That probably reduced the power from 68bhp down to 60. ;D
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Should see a few of the ones I’ve pulled out if the Evo over the years pieces broken everywhere between the rings :( before I upgraded to later Evo9 pistons and rods. Evo3 was notorious for ringland failures as they run a slightly higher compression ratio, once the naughty little fingers started raising boost pressures (my weakness) ::) ;D cost me a bloody fortune
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Here are a few more pics, from the beginning.
Rocker cover off, injectors out, and air-con compressor disconnected:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1609.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1610.jpg)
Starting to disconnect some of the turbo gubbins, and the heat exchanger / cooler:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1614.jpg)
And, manifold and turbo off as one unit:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1616.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1665.jpg)
Turbo seems OK inside:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1667.jpg)
Now we come onto removing the timing belt cover. Note the engine mount had to come off for this, so engine supported from underneath:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1619.jpg)
Before I took it apart, thought I'd do a timing check to see if there were any problems there. With the crank at TDC, the cam pulley aligned to where it should:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1624.jpg)
The injection pump, however, did not! On most modern commonrail diesels, the injection pump isn't "timed" like old ones, so it's position doesn't usually matter. But, the workshop manual for this car is clear that the larger hole of the two on the pulley (the only one capable of taking an M8 bolt) should be screwed in. You can see here, the injection pump is actually 180deg out, because the M8 bolt / thread is opposite of where it shoudl be:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1629.jpg)
This is where the injection pump should be:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1631.jpg)
Time for a break:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1632.jpg)
Then, camshafts out:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1636.jpg)
Still can't get to the head bolts, though - this added bit has to come off:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1638.jpg)
All looking quite bare, now:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1643.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1645.jpg)
Now for the moment of truth. With the head off, you can see the tip of the glow plug on cyl number 4 is missing:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1664.jpg)
Now we come onto removing both lower and upper sumps. Lower sump was simply 15 bolts, and using the special vauxhall separating tool brute force to encourage it off.
The upper sump, was attached to the gearbox, drivehaft, cable trays, and was a bit of a pain in the @rse to get off. But I got there, finishing the job with yet another specialist tool a sharp clout from a bit of wood.
No pictures of the sumps, my hands were saturated in black engine blood by this stage through my ripped gloves ::)
However, the sump removal then left us seeing this, from underneath the car. You can see there's a protection tray thingy:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1695.jpg)
And with that removed, we start to see the business end of things:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1697.jpg)
So now the piston for no4 cylinder is removed.
We can get a decent look inside the bore walls.
It LOOKS terrible, but I still think this can be salvaged. As I mentioned earlier, it doesn't photo well, and in images this looks like scoring, but with the naked eye, it's clear that something has attached itself to the wall, rather than inwardly scoring it. I think some patience and fine wet and dry followed by a hone, might save this.
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1703.jpg)
And the bit you've all been waiting for, the state of the piston. As they say, every picture tells a thousand words:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1709.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1710.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/astra/IMG_1711.jpg)
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Well James,the piston is proper fubar,lets hope you can save the bore :y
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Hmmmmm.......lets just go back 6 pages......a cheap but very tidy astra. ;D
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Just confirms that the AA man's verdict of injector or DPF was way off the mark ;D
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The DPF is screwed to be fair. I would imagine as a result of being constantly pumped full of burning oil from that piston, though ;D
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Impossible to say from the picture, but hopefully you'll be able to clean up the bore.
On a lighter note, the rest of the engine doesn't look too shabby. I'm wondering what sealant has been used on the sump though? :-\
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Hmmmmm.......lets just go back 6 pages......a cheap but very tidy astra. ;D
Still very much the case. For what I paid, it wouldn’t have been the end of the world if I’d have had to pay for a new engine on top.
I know you all probably think I’m mad, but I do things like this for the fun and sense of achievement and satisfaction I get from it. It’s stopping me going mad currently with this lock down :y
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Impossible to say from the picture, but hopefully you'll be able to clean up the bore.
On a lighter note, the rest of the engine doesn't look too shabby. I'm wondering what sealant has been used on the sump though? :-\
Grey sealant like on the V6 oil cooler.
It’s actually the correct stuff for a sump, as opposed to the black RTV :y
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Hmmmmm.......lets just go back 6 pages......a cheap but very tidy astra. ;D
Still very much the case. For what I paid, it wouldn’t have been the end of the world if I’d have had to pay for a new engine on top.
I know you all probably think I’m mad, but I do things like this for the fun and sense of achievement and satisfaction I get from it. It’s stopping me going mad currently with this lock down :y
Yes, I know you love all of this stuff, James. And, to be fair, you're keeping quite a few of us on here sane as well. :y
My astra 2.0 diesel might need attention one day and, as you love it so much........ :)
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What's the mileage on that engine? You may have said already, but I've missed it.
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Hmmmmm.......lets just go back 6 pages......a cheap but very tidy astra. ;D
Still very much the case. For what I paid, it wouldn’t have been the end of the world if I’d have had to pay for a new engine on top.
I know you all probably think I’m mad, but I do things like this for the fun and sense of achievement and satisfaction I get from it. It’s stopping me going mad currently with this lock down :y
Yes, I know you love all of this stuff, James. And, to be fair, you're keeping quite a few of us on here sane as well. :y
My astra 2.0 diesel might need attention one day and, as you love it so much........ :)
From memory, 120k :y
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It’s actually the correct stuff for a sump, as opposed to the black RTV :y
Makes perfect sense. On this stupid touchscreen laptop it looked white.
Good luck with it. Should make a reasonable runaround once it's sorted.
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Let's hope you can get the bits that you need, so you can keep us busy :y
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
How much is an angle grinder disc, these days? ;D *
* For the "DPF removal is illegal brigade", I am joking :y
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Ordered a piston and rings yesterday, UPS had it on the doormat by lunchtime today :y
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I hope you have a bit of luck with it mate👍
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
How much is an angle grinder disc, these days? ;D *
* For the "DPF removal is illegal brigade", I am joking :y
Quite right! You need a drill, length of steel rod and a hammer. Otherwise the nosey MOT inspector will know. ;D
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
How much is an angle grinder disc, these days? ;D *
* For the "DPF removal is illegal brigade", I am joking :y
There's a few places around here that will do that for me. Then MOT it. :-X
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I am impressed at your enthusiasm at dismantling this engine .... it's years since I've seen inside a block like that.
I don't know about this Astra, but I bought an Astra G diseasal a few years back as a none runner ... completely different engine, but the cam shaft sprockets were not splined onto the cam shaft as per a V6 Omega, it was only held in position by a taper. I realised just before I released the bolt on the end. :y
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
How much is an angle grinder disc, these days? ;D *
* For the "DPF removal is illegal brigade", I am joking :y
You can get the DPF cleaned James or try it yourself with a pressure washer, nothing to lose although it'll need a re gen afterwards
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Great pics and content James :)
as for the diesel pump not aligning with the correct bolt hole ...
I came across this when doing the timing on our 07 plate 1.7 CDTi
rotating the engine several times brings the pump round so ALL timing marks line up and the M8 does go in the correct hole
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The glow plug tip has not caused that, the damage you have is melting due to hotspots, this is often an injector issue :y
Check the rod is still straight to
And get the inlet manifold off and fully cleaned out whilst its stripped down.
I expect the bores will clean up to an acceptable level, I have seen far worse on industrial diesels!
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I am impressed at your enthusiasm at dismantling this engine .... it's years since I've seen inside a block like that.
I don't know about this Astra, but I bought an Astra G diseasal a few years back as a none runner ... completely different engine, but the cam shaft sprockets were not splined onto the cam shaft as per a V6 Omega, it was only held in position by a taper. I realised just before I released the bolt on the end. :y
Still are on many engines :y
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And please keep us (me) updated on the cost of various bits, esp dpf, as I plan to keep mine running as long as possible.
How much is an angle grinder disc, these days? ;D *
* For the "DPF removal is illegal brigade", I am joking :y
You can get the DPF cleaned James or try it yourself with a pressure washer, nothing to lose although it'll need a re gen afterwards
A few places doing this now, the pressure washer wont work sadly (it just makes the ash solidify and permanently clogs them)
Its at a mileage where there will be a reasonable level of ash build up :y
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I am impressed at your enthusiasm at dismantling this engine .... it's years since I've seen inside a block like that.
I don't know about this Astra, but I bought an Astra G diseasal a few years back as a none runner ... completely different engine, but the cam shaft sprockets were not splined onto the cam shaft as per a V6 Omega, it was only held in position by a taper. I realised just before I released the bolt on the end. :y
Still are on many engines :y
So I now believe ??? Seems a bit barmy to me :-\
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I am impressed at your enthusiasm at dismantling this engine .... it's years since I've seen inside a block like that.
I don't know about this Astra, but I bought an Astra G diseasal a few years back as a none runner ... completely different engine, but the cam shaft sprockets were not splined onto the cam shaft as per a V6 Omega, it was only held in position by a taper. I realised just before I released the bolt on the end. :y
Still are on many engines :y
So I now believe ??? Seems a bit barmy to me :-\
Cheaper to make (Cams are precision ground so a precision taper is no extra cost, a key/slot/drilling etc is a different process) , more accurate timing setting, much easier for robot assembly. :y :y :y
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I am impressed at your enthusiasm at dismantling this engine .... it's years since I've seen inside a block like that.
I don't know about this Astra, but I bought an Astra G diseasal a few years back as a none runner ... completely different engine, but the cam shaft sprockets were not splined onto the cam shaft as per a V6 Omega, it was only held in position by a taper. I realised just before I released the bolt on the end. :y
Still are on many engines :y
So I now believe ??? Seems a bit barmy to me :-\
the key in a 'normal' pulley is only there so the timing marks are correctly placed, it doesn't provide the drive. It actually makes more sense putting the timing mark(or lock) directly on the shaft, and rotating the pulley to tension the belt
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The bore is cleaned up, and the piston is back in:
Video 1
https://youtu.be/GZwbv50QzVw
Video 2
https://youtu.be/tEnwdYmfDB8
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It's worth noting there is still a bit of "staining" a it were on the wall, but, it's silky smooth to the touch, and as good as I honestly think it's going to get :y
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You seem to have got hold of the parts quite easily.
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You seem to have got hold of the parts quite easily.
Ebay. Ordered the piston/rings on Tuesday, arrived Wednesday morning! :y
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The bore is cleaned up, and the piston is back in:
Video 1
https://youtu.be/GZwbv50QzVw
Video 2
https://youtu.be/tEnwdYmfDB8
:y :y
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You seem to have got hold of the parts quite easily.
Ebay. Ordered the piston/rings on Tuesday, arrived Wednesday morning! :y
How much was it? :-\
Last piston I bought was the best part of 40 yrs ago for a Ford Pinto .... Ford wanted £25 (a lot of money at the time) I got one from a local engine rebuild bloke for £9 (and he pressed it onto the gudgeon pin) :y :y
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Set of new rings for this car is £30 a piston, for pattern parts. No idea about GM.
I paid £60 for the piston second hand with the conrod attached. Whilst it sounds like a lot, it was worth it, rather than buying a new piston at £90, and having to mess about with oven / blowtorch / freezer to press the gudgeon pins in and out of my old (possibly bend) conrod :y
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Excellent and you won’t go wrong I’ve used second hand pistons and rods in the past and had very good luck👍👍
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Set of new rings for this car is £30 a piston, for pattern parts. No idea about GM.
I paid £60 for the piston second hand with the conrod attached. Whilst it sounds like a lot, it was worth it, rather than buying a new piston at £90, and having to mess about with oven / blowtorch / freezer to press the gudgeon pins in and out of my old (possibly bend) conrod :y
Sounds pretty reasonable :y :y
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Agreed. Not having to part with three figures for the piston/rodis good value imo. :y
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Tomorrow's day is is a simple one, because I've ran out of parts to put the top end together. So I am going to:
1) cleanup and refit of lower sumps, and ancillaries like the dipstick tube and strainer, etc.
2) General tidy up / sort out of tools / work station.
If time is left over, I might
- Remove the DPF, and do a post mortem
- Pop out the valves on no4 and check the seats
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Tomorrow's day is is a simple one, because I've ran out of parts to put the top end together. So I am going to:
1) cleanup and refit of lower sumps, and ancillaries like the dipstick tube and strainer, etc.
2) General tidy up / sort out of tools / work station.
If time is left over, I might
- Remove the DPF, and do a post mortem
- Pop out the valves on no4 and check the seats
Just sit in the sun and have a beer! ;)
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Just ordered the top end gasket set. £60 delivered
£25 on 4 rocker cover injector seals as I broke one on removal
As it stands, this beast will have been purchased, trailered to me, and fully repaired all within three figures :)
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Just ordered the top end gasket set. £60 delivered
£25 on 4 rocker cover injector seals as I broke one on removal
As it stands, this beast will have been purchased, trailered to me, and fully repaired all within three figures :)
Including dpf?
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Just ordered the top end gasket set. £60 delivered
£25 on 4 rocker cover injector seals as I broke one on removal
As it stands, this beast will have been purchased, trailered to me, and fully repaired all within three figures :)
Including dpf?
As I keep saying Steve, an angle grinder disc and couple of lines of weld shouldn’t up the cost too much ;D
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I'm not knocking that, James, according to Opti it's a planet killer anyway. Might as well hasten the end. ;D
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Not much progress today, spent most of it drinking beer, went for a dog walk and lazing around.
But, I torqued up the con-rod for the piston I fitted, and fitted the cover protection plate thingymabob that covers the bottom end, as well as the strainer:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1a37d7983a658e470f3db413.jpg)
I then had a look at the upper sump:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1191f97b89a04a37b82260e7.jpg)
And cleaned it up a bit
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1c68571bcea4cebe25cc3970.jpg)
Can't get any dealer parts at the moment, so I made do with some loctite grey sealant I had, which I'm sure will do the job (Grey is correct for sumps)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/37f6cbd89da1010c0406a012.jpg)
And after cleaning it up, placed a bead around the sump:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/3c2026bd6c54a643867b2161.jpg)
And refitted it to the car.
It actually took ages - it was really fiddly to get back on, it connects to the gearbox, and also a bracket on the OS driveshaft, which really got in the way when trying to maneuver it back on.
The lower sump is also back on, so, sumps, done :y
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Sure that’s a sump baffle to stop the oil slushing about when you’re hooning around👍
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.....
And after cleaning it up, placed a bead around the sump:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/3c2026bd6c54a643867b2161.jpg)
....
It's best put the bead around the bolt holes, not over them :y :y
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Good point well made, actually. :y
It aint coming back off now, though!! :D
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....
It aint coming back off now, though!! :D
;D ;D ;D ;D
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I had a bit of a wobble, earlier, thinking "Am I pissing in the wind" / wasting my time, trying to get this clapped lump running.
But looking at it logically, I don't see why it shouldn't work :-\ - It was running on three before, and, it's pretty obvious why no4 wasn't firing....
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always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
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Me too I have a 1600 16v Astra G lpg which I’ve butchered and drilled and fitted different injectors to the manifold. The original kaltec system was crap on them, still using the same ecu though and abused the little darling for five years so far it’s indestructible👀
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always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
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always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
-
That 1.6 really needs a turbo...
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
Make sure your passport is up to date :)
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
Make sure your passport is up to date :)
& inoculations .... ::) ::)
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My 1.6 16v sure ain’t shy when pushed 101bhp in that is quite ok, plus I get to do 120 miles per tenner on LPG. :y
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always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
Make sure your passport is up to date :)
& inoculations .... ::) ::)
;D ;D
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
Make sure your passport is up to date :)
& inoculations .... ::) ::)
;D ;D
You can laugh, yokel :P
-
always scary when you first turn the key after a rebuild and it bangs and clatters :o
then the lifters fill with 710 and all is good with the world :)
i'm sure it will be a great run-a-round when done :)
i much prefer the astra estate to the hatch :y
ESP in diesel form :y
I drove a 1.6 petrol Astra J last year, a 2011 model, with only 30k on the clock, a very reliable and good car, but it lacked any poke at all, and only averages 35mpg!
Whereas, in comparison, the work cars I used to drive a few years ago, were 1.3CDTi - and much better than the 1.6 petrol.
My 2.0 165bhp gets along the road nicely, and 40+mpg around town.
If ever I'm in your neck of the woods, we'll have to go for a couple of pints, and I'll have a go in that :y
In reverse order, obviously! :D
Make sure your passport is up to date :)
& inoculations .... ::) ::)
;D ;D
You can laugh, yokel :P
Oooh arghhh :y
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Not so many Grockles this year... ::)
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Not much progress today, spent most of it drinking beer, went for a dog walk and lazing around.
But, I torqued up the con-rod for the piston I fitted, and fitted the cover protection plate thingymabob that covers the bottom end, as well as the strainer:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1a37d7983a658e470f3db413.jpg)
I then had a look at the upper sump:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1191f97b89a04a37b82260e7.jpg)
And cleaned it up a bit
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/1c68571bcea4cebe25cc3970.jpg)
Can't get any dealer parts at the moment, so I made do with some loctite grey sealant I had, which I'm sure will do the job (Grey is correct for sumps)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/37f6cbd89da1010c0406a012.jpg)
And after cleaning it up, placed a bead around the sump:
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/3c2026bd6c54a643867b2161.jpg)
And refitted it to the car.
It actually took ages - it was really fiddly to get back on, it connects to the gearbox, and also a bracket on the OS driveshaft, which really got in the way when trying to maneuver it back on.
The lower sump is also back on, so, sumps, done :y
I used to buy Vx parts fom Downside Motors, a local Vauxhall dealereship, who usually got them from Platinum Vauxhall, Trowbridge. I get the impression that access to Vauxhall stores for spares is currently impossible. Is this so, or is there a postal route still available?
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Had to go to that silly thing called work today, but had a spare hour this evening, so as promised, a post-mortem on the suspected blocked DPF.
I'll let the pictures do the talking, other than to say, how the bloody hell is an engine ever supposed to breathe with all of this crap clogging up the exhaust :o :o
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/2629daae081d889c3a36df85.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/f1a7015b02ce8ec637eedb6c.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/3b44f992da127ddc445600ed.jpg)
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/46f45d7e407926f2bc72c609.jpg)
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.....
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/46f45d7e407926f2bc72c609.jpg)
That looks betterer ..... :y :y
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Jeez, the shit that was in there. :o
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So I assume some of that is supposed to be in there? ??? The white bits? :-\
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So I assume some of that is supposed to be in there? ??? The white bits? :-\
Yes they are, the whole thing is meant to be like a fine honeycombe........
I just don't get how an engine can breathe properly like that.... I'm prepared to bet if I were to weld up and refit that DPF*..... a few horses would be unleashed!!
* for off road use, only!
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Jeez, the shit that was in there. :o
That's how they all are, layer upon layer of a honeycomb type material. :y When I bashed out the contents of the truck dpf, and then refitted it, my lad said to me "F**k me, it goes like a scolded cat now". ;D
It was easy on the pick up dpf, wait for it to regen, and then remove the pipe and ram a bar in to the box and smash it out with no damage to the casing. As far as the mot went, it was still there untampered with and sailed through each time. :y
Things may have been tightened up since then though as that procedure became common knowledge.
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remove the pipe and ram a bar in to the box and smash it out with no damage to the casing. As far as the mot went, it was still there untampered with and sailed through each time. :y
Things may have been tightened up since then though as that procedure became common knowledge.
It's still a "visual inspection".
So, they can't tap it to see if it's hollow.
If one were to therefore hypothetically, weld the box back up, and fit a generic round heat shield around the DPF...............
Personally, Id rather cut it open than run a bar through it. That shit gets in every nook and cranny, and I'd want it all fully removed :y
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remove the pipe and ram a bar in to the box and smash it out with no damage to the casing. As far as the mot went, it was still there untampered with and sailed through each time. :y
Things may have been tightened up since then though as that procedure became common knowledge.
It's still a "visual inspection".
So, they can't tap it to see if it's hollow.
If one were to therefore hypothetically, weld the box back up, and fit a generic round heat shield around the DPF...............
Personally, Id rather cut it open than run a bar through it. That shit gets in every nook and cranny, and I'd want it all fully removed :y
On the pick up, the pipe came off and you have access to both ends. I even sanded it all out inside so it was spotless. :y
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remove the pipe and ram a bar in to the box and smash it out with no damage to the casing. As far as the mot went, it was still there untampered with and sailed through each time. :y
Things may have been tightened up since then though as that procedure became common knowledge.
It's still a "visual inspection".
So, they can't tap it to see if it's hollow.
If one were to therefore hypothetically, weld the box back up, and fit a generic round heat shield around the DPF...............
Personally, Id rather cut it open than run a bar through it. That shit gets in every nook and cranny, and I'd want it all fully removed :y
On the pick up, the pipe came off and you have access to both ends. I even sanded it all out inside so it was spotless. :y
:y
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If one were to therefore hypothetically, weld the box back up, and fit a generic round heat shield around the DPF...............
Wouldn't it trigger a code so the EML or a message came up? :-\
And if you put it in for MOT (hypothetically..), wouldn't they be able to tell via the emissions test? :-\
'Scuse my ignorance but I've never owned a car with a DPF.... :)
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If one were to therefore hypothetically, weld the box back up, and fit a generic round heat shield around the DPF...............
Wouldn't it trigger a code so the EML or a message came up? :-\
And if you put it in for MOT (hypothetically..), wouldn't they be able to tell via the emissions test? :-\
'Scuse my ignorance but I've never owned a car with a DPF.... :)
Emissions is just a smoke test, so as long as the engine is in good fettle, it's no issue.
It MAY trigger a code, but you can, hypothetically, fit resistors to the sensors in the rear or the DPF to prevent that :-X
Jokes aside, if I get it running really well, I am likely to just fit a new DPF, with my driving style and route types it's unlikely to block.
But, for the purposes of seeing how this repair goes, I'm not shelling out until I'm sure, and I don't think anyone would blame me for that :y
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Make sure you don’t breathe any of that shit in👍
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Make sure you don’t breathe any of that shit in👍
I had the goggles and mask on :y
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Make sure you don’t breathe any of that shit in👍
If he did, how would he go about doing a regen? Vindaloo? :-\
-
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/41324/c39cb8ecb44df74463174e12.jpg)
Might not be pretty, but it's gas tight, and very free flowing.............. a couple of generic round heat shields, and the "DPF" is as good as new :y
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excellent :)
just waiting for gaskets then James ?
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Yep, and a couple of days off work!
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I assume you know that the shit you removed has a decent scrap value
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I assume you know that the shit you removed has a decent scrap value
Even when highly contaminated with diesel and oil and god knows what? I just chucked it all away :y
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At the very least you should have taken it to the tip :-X
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At the very least you should have taken it to the nearest fly tip :-X
The Recycling Centres are all closed round here and surprise surprise there was a report on the local news last night about the increase in fly tipping. ::)
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Fair point, but the principle stands.
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At the very least you should have taken it to the nearest fly tip :-X
The Recycling Centres are all closed round here and surprise surprise there was a report on the local news last night about the increase in fly tipping. ::)
Someone local must've been having a clear out of their kids stuff as there was a baby walker, child's car sat & other toys dumped in a nearby car park >:(
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At the very least you should have taken it to the nearest fly tip :-X
The Recycling Centres are all closed round here and surprise surprise there was a report on the local news last night about the increase in fly tipping. ::)
I've been biking around the local minor roads for my exercise and the amount of rubbish in gateways and lanes now is a disgrace. >:(
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At the very least you should have taken it to the tip :-X
That’s actually a good point - I don’t think the bin lorry has been yet, so I shall recover it and store it in the garage until the tips reopen :y
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:y
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How long before you get the parts to see if your good work has paid off? Here's to hoping it's been a success. :y It'll fly with the new dpf. ;)
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If you recover it keep it some heavy metals there :y
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How long before you get the parts to see if your good work has paid off? Here's to hoping it's been a success. :y It'll fly with the new dpf. ;)
Head set has arrived. Might start reconditioning the head today
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I assume you know that the shit you removed has a decent scrap value
Even when highly contaminated with diesel and oil and god knows what? I just chucked it all away :y
Yeah, around £100 worth of precious metals
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There is jack all of value in a DPF, its just ceramic composites, its CATs and SCRs that have valuable metals in them.
And you shouldn't need to do anything to keep the ECU light off, its only a temperature and pressure sensor which can be left connected
I still say you need to get those injectors sorted, your piston failure was not foreign body caused, its overheated
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I still say you need to get those injectors sorted, your piston failure was not foreign body caused, its overheated
Agreed. I’ve got a recon injector for no4 :y
You can actually see having taken the glow out that the tip didn’t break off, it melted!
Once the car is running I’ll do a leak off test on all of the injectors.
I’m regretting giving the valves a lap though. So far 50% of the exhaust valves I’ve refitted let a drop of liquid through when left overnight, so are coming back out. Only used fine paste too!
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I still say you need to get those injectors sorted, your piston failure was not foreign body caused, its overheated
Agreed. I’ve got a recon injector for no4 :y
You can actually see having taken the glow out that the tip didn’t break off, it melted!
Once the car is running I’ll do a leak off test on all of the injectors.
I’m regretting giving the valves a lap though. So far 50% of the exhaust valves I’ve refitted let a drop of liquid through when left overnight, so are coming back out. Only used fine paste too!
Clean the valves and valve seats really well after lapping, often its just a tiny amount of crud causes them to leak, particularly if you managed to achieve a clean light grey lapping ring on the valve and seat :y
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The head is now fully rebuilt. Will clean the mating surfaces and start the top end rebuild tomorrow
(https://www.chatterboxuk.co.uk/images/photos/779/52/2fc4deb677e9f4828bc31bd1.jpg)
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I should add, changed all 16 stem seals, too. I was worried that the ones on Cyl no4 in particular with the heat it was subjected to, won't have been very well!
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Probably a good thing you bought this. Keeping you busy during the lockdown. You may find yourself doing it indoors this week, rain forecast.
Looking good :y
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I should add, changed all 16 stem seals, too. I was worried that the ones on Cyl no4 in particular with the heat it was subjected to, won't have been very well!
Always wise to swap the VSOS while it's in bits ,well done James :y
looking forward to the start up video :)
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Nice to see you’re still us in lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
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Nice to see you’re still us in lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
For some reason I can't fathom, since the lockdown, I seem to be off alcohol - not that I was a big drinker at home anyway.
Still, means when the pubs open again, I'll be Mr Half-Pint cheap date ;D
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Ignoring my local, which technically I'm still barred from, as their watered down piss I could never get tipsy on ;D
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Nice to see you’re still using lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
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Nice to see you’re still using lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
parrot
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What?
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What?
who's a pretty boy then , want some Trill ;D
Nice to see you’re still us in lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
Nice to see you’re still using lager to clean things. ;) My car is still performing faultlessly BTW :y
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Pardon?
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Got you ;D
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Besides the quotes are not the same ;)
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Some more progress today.
I've got the head fully rebuilt and cleaned as best as I can. A nice grey seal around each valve, all nice and tight, new stem seals all fitted, a check that all collets are in properly:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/206b97f80cb5a78d47dbbbf1.jpg)
The engine block, in the final stages of being cleaned:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/cd743122e3b53e189ef858b7.jpg)
The head gasket, fitted:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/c543ae25aae6748831f883aa.jpg)
Inlet manifold gasket located, ready fit manifold:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/48bad52adce170cfc4afeb1b.jpg)
And, the head fitted onto the block, with inlet manifold attached
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/87777b7cdbaf1a363b7c9210.jpg)
I then fitted the lifters (which interestingly aren't hydraulic like Omegas) and fitted the "thingy" (I dunno what it's called) that the camshafts run in. There's another gasket on the face of the head you see here, and it bolts on.
Anyway then I started looking at the timing.
Because it's a variable valve setup, the outer ring on the teeth on the exhaust cam needs to be tensioned, and a special tool fitted to hold it in place.
The special tool from VX is called to tension this gear is called "EN-6092-10 fixing tool" and I could not find the bloody thing anywhere online for love nor money. It's no4 in this image:
(https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/images/astra-j-6742.jpg)
So, sod it, I'll make my own.
Ingredients:
1) A broken / old / unwanted glow plug. In this case, the one that melted in no4 chamber was perfect.
2) Ideally a vice, but otherwise, a bit of wood, and some mole grips.
3) The trusty old angle grinder, that has so far done me proud on this job ;D
nb - a small hacksaw would be fine too, but why make life hard!
Solution:
1) Cut this bit off the end of the glowplug
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/cec4a1cf48b3aecfd199f5d2.jpg)
Pretension your ring gear, and shove said bit of glowplug in this hole.
https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/f691adf6a650ab344e472f17.jpg
Fit the camshafts to the car, making sure the marks are lined up as per the red circle below, and also that the timing bolt fits correctly in the camshaft (belt end) sprocket
(https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/images/astra-j-6743.jpg)
Which in reality, along with my makeshift tool, looks like:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/0781ac9b6713a31c7e6649e6.jpg)
That's all for today, and probably the next few, looking at the weather.
It's noteworthy that unlike the omega head bolts, which are 25nm, followed by 2 x 90deg turns, (and a 15deg tolerence turn if you wish) - this head is 50nm, x 90 x 90.
I could not believe the forces required to achieve it, but the bolts didn't feel they would break (I thought the extension bar would go first!). I guess it's because it's a diseasel.
Beer time :y
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That looks like a brand new engine, James. Brilliant work, mate. :y
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fitted the "thingy" (I dunno what it's called) that the camshafts run in.
camshaft housing or cam carrier ;)
excellent work
I make tools too out of what i have if a special "service tool/dealer tool" is required :)
Great pics too ,thanks for the update :)
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Nice one James👍
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Beer time :y
Well earned I'd say! :y
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Beer time :y
Well earned I'd say! :y
Definitely :y
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You guys amaze me. I'm just not methodical, (or patient) enough to embark on anything like that James. 8) I do clean mine now and then though. ;D
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Some more progress today
Firstly, I finished fitting the camshaft housing / carrier, whatever you want to call it. All the journals cleaned and lubed, and all the shells torqued down evenly and correctly.
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/2149c017b41b481a8cdab2c8.jpg)
With the cam locked in position via the locating bolt, I took the engine off it's mount, installed the crankshaft pulley, then brought the crank round clockwise to TDC, and then fitted the cambelt kit:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/9953d786a9d61226c7bc4fbf.jpg)
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/251e78e9d75535cbee18787b.jpg)
Interestingly, on every rotation, the M8 bolt fits correctly in the diesel pump, so, it was set up incorrectly before I took it apart. I'm not actually sure what the consequences of this are, as I've always thought High Pressure / Common rail diesel pumps weren't "timed" - but the workshop manual is clear that it should be in that position, so it must be for a reason.
Upper and lower covers fitted:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/c8dad60894f08e0ff17ac174.jpg)
Manifold, with turbo, refitted (Note, all the turbo gubbins / actuators etc are not done yet)
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/b9bd90a46a0f9ce55f398110.jpg)
Air Conditioning pump and various brackets fitted, including one which contains an aux belt idler. Aux belt refitted
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/8002de3fcf0abe7d628f1feb.jpg)
Engine back on it's mount;
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/b874daef81455e183a18f27d.jpg)
Oh, and the dipstick tube!
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I should add -
No I didn't change the water pump. It looks in good a nick as the rest of the engine, and isn't cambelt driven I didn't see any value changing it for a pattern part that probably won't last as long as this one.
Secondly, I didn't change the cambelt kit either. That was a concious decision. I'm not throwing money at things like that, until I see the thing actually running and driving.
I am out of my comfort zone with this engine, the damage in that chamber was extensive, and I don't hold great hope. It's still good fun putting it all together though, and trying to make it better :y
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I should add -
No I didn't change the water pump. It looks in good a nick as the rest of the engine, and isn't cambelt driven I didn't see any value changing it for a pattern part that probably won't last as long as this one.
Secondly, I didn't change the cambelt kit either. That was a concious decision. I'm not throwing money at things like that, until I see the thing actually running and driving.
I am out of my comfort zone with this engine, the damage in that chamber was extensive, and I don't hold great hope. It's still good fun putting it all together though, and trying to make it better :y
I don't think anyone can say you haven't made the right choices. Once driven for a few thousand miles, and you've got confidence that the engine is good, you can address those items.
You've so far done a sterling job, and the attention to detail is a credit to you.
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It should feel a damn site happier than it was :y
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Derivatives of this engine are in so many cars. It's a well proven unit and I'm hoping you'll be fine. Good work, lad :y
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Interesting on the M8 bolt in the diesel pump, the older engine (2008) the bolt only went in easy every 5 ish rotations .
you can always go back and replace the tensioner and idler and belt in a few k ,once your sure it's OK
I had to replace a NON OEM waterpump (leaking,bearing play) at about 105k so you could be right about keeping the original
I tend to buy gates kits and waterpumps
I agree ,make sure it runs and there are no other problems ,THEN spend
or sell quickly ;D :D
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Derivatives of this engine are in so many cars
I really wish I was more confident with cars that are not Omegas. I had to stare at this one for half an hour earlier and work out where the correct loom routing was likely to be - and even then only did it based on what I thought was best, not knowledge. V6 Omega, I wouldn't have had to think twice.
I really admire mechanics that can just turn their hand to any car, without having to think about it :y
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I find it helps to take loads of pictures as you dismantle something. Takes alot of the guessing out of refitting everything ;)
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I find it helps to take loads of pictures as you dismantle something. Takes alot of the guessing out of refitting everything ;)
Funny you say that, a couple of the photos on this thread were a great help to me today :D :y
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Derivatives of this engine are in so many cars
I really wish I was more confident with cars that are not Omegas. I had to stare at this one for half an hour earlier and work out where the correct loom routing was likely to be - and even then only did it based on what I thought was best, not knowledge. V6 Omega, I wouldn't have had to think twice.
I really admire mechanics that can just turn their hand to any car, without having to think about it :y
I don’t think you do too badly considering it’s not even your chosen profession :y
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Not much progress today, due to the rain. But, glow plugs are fitted, including one new one for no4.
Forgive me not changing all 4 - they don't do much in these engines, and for £20 each, it's pointless at this stage. They're also easy enough to get at.
I've got the injectors all in, and secure, including the replacement one for No4. I've refitted the rocker cover, injector to camcover seals. Also got the fuel rail reinstalled, and all of the diesel pipework, including the pump-to-rail feed, the injector pipes from the rail, and the leak off / return pipework. In addition, fitted some of the inlet stuff, Eg throttle assembly, EGR valve.
It was getting dark by the time I took the last one, but here are a couple of shots from today.
Injectors in:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/da9a956bc9d7ed10268e59ba.jpg)
Current state:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/1121d2f7bbb234e4afd36327.jpg)
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/6e2137a81aaa41b02db61a38.jpg)
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Be firing it up after breakfast :y
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Be firing it up after breakfast :y
Oh mate I wish - there are a sea of electrical connectors, particularly all in the region of under the alternator, which I need to fathom, plus some at the back of the engine. Plus I need to refit the exhaust, intercooler bits, etc. Oh and work out all of the vacuum hoses!
With that said - now the engine is almost back together, the loom just seems to be falling into the right places, and the connections to the various sensors/components are pretty unambiguous for most.
I reckon a leisurely days tinkering, (plus a battery charge, and it will be shit or bust time!!
I ordered some fresh fully synth oil for it today. I know I'm not throwing money at it until I know it works, but oil and filter is the exception - it would be a moronic sin, to pour used oil back into that freshly assembled engine ;D
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Injectors are £120 each for mine.
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Injectors are £120 each for mine.
That can't be new, surely? Must be re-con?
I paid £57ish second hand for this one - but from a very reputable breaker, who will refund/swap it if any issues :y
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Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
No, you won't. We had this discussion when I had to have two changed. They've got to be the ones with the sensor on, Mark explained the difference, but I can't find the thread.
Something like this:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/beru-glow-plug-438720315
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
I remember the conversation by Mark too. Some glow plugs are £15 or so each but others are £stupid money ..... a neighbour asked the same question when he was quoted stupid money for a glow plug for his Insignia :y
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
No, you won't. We had this discussion when I had to have two changed. They've got to be the ones with the sensor on, Mark explained the difference, but I can't find the thread.
Something like this:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/beru-glow-plug-438720315
I take it back. I'm trying to type without a whole load of profanities. I've never heard of that, that's outrageous!!!!!
Especially since, in the UK, most modern commonrail diesels can get away without working glow plugs! The amount of people that don't understand our "company" cars, and just spin them over without waiting for glow plugs - they are extremely forgiving, and nearly always catch, even in winter!
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
No, you won't. We had this discussion when I had to have two changed. They've got to be the ones with the sensor on, Mark explained the difference, but I can't find the thread.
Something like this:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/beru-glow-plug-438720315
I take it back. I'm trying to type without a whole load of profanities. I've never heard of that, that's outrageous!!!!!
Especially since, in the UK, most modern commonrail diesels can get away without working glow plugs! The amount of people that don't understand our "company" cars, and just spin them over without waiting for glow plugs - they are extremely forgiving, and nearly always catch, even in winter!
Here goes what I remember: The 2.0 fires twice on every cycle, or something ;D and the sensor on the glow plug picks this up...or something ;D ;D
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Ask Mark.
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Ask Mark.
Mark! How TF can two glow plugs be worth more than my Omega? ;D
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Presumably for much the same reason as 4 VAG CRD injectors cost more than a new Omega V6 engine. From Vauxhall. :o
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Presumably for much the same reason as 4 VAG CRD injectors cost more than a new Omega V6 engine. From Vauxhall. :o
Agreed. As said before here, a bloke at work needed AN Other injector for his Golf ... £500 each from VW by the time it has been coded
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What's even more annoying is that, when a glow plug gives up, you get a message reading "Service vehicle soon", so they charge you for a code read as well.
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What's even more annoying is that, when a glow plug gives up, you get a message reading "Service vehicle soon", so they charge you for a code read as well.
Absolute daylight robbery.... I couldn't keep my cool if I had to visit one of these "dealerships" ;D
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0
Sorry, James, that's glow plugs. Here's the injectors:
https://www.buycarparts.co.uk/vauxhall/astra-mk-vi-j-estate/11292/12899/injector-nozzle-nozzle-holder-pde
You can't be serious... send me your Reg in PM, I'll find you glow plugs :y
No, you won't. We had this discussion when I had to have two changed. They've got to be the ones with the sensor on, Mark explained the difference, but I can't find the thread.
Something like this:
https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/beru-glow-plug-438720315
I take it back. I'm trying to type without a whole load of profanities. I've never heard of that, that's outrageous!!!!!
Especially since, in the UK, most modern commonrail diesels can get away without working glow plugs! The amount of people that don't understand our "company" cars, and just spin them over without waiting for glow plugs - they are extremely forgiving, and nearly always catch, even in winter!
None can all year round, they need 'some' heat even if its not full glow (they get 'some heat' VERY quickly), car manufacturers have also caught on to drivers habits and hence the start on many cars is inhibited until the minimum glow duration is met (very easy on push button start, easy on key to as the start position fires a CAN/Flexray/DOIP signal via the BCM to the ECU rather than a hard wire to the starter) :y :y :y
The modern glow plugs incorporate pressure sensing to support the ECU control of optimal injection, hence the price (the price of lower NOx emissions)
As for injectors, a genuine Bosch remanufactured one (non piezo) is circa £150 if you shop around (as good as new), refurb around £100 and about £40 to test and clean and existing. :y
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What's even more annoying is that, when a glow plug gives up, you get a message reading "Service vehicle soon", so they charge you for a code read as well.
Yours should give a code in the cluster, this tells you what it is referring to..............VAG cars just directly message your bank details to the dealer and pre-authorise the payment ;D ;D
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
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What's even more annoying is that, when a glow plug gives up, you get a message reading "Service vehicle soon", so they charge you for a code read as well.
Yours should give a code in the cluster, this tells you what it is referring to..............VAG cars just directly message your bank details to the dealer and pre-authorise the payment ;D ;D
;D ;D
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
No, just a single line on the dash, unlike the ones with three or four lines. I've looked online at models of that age and younger and there's a right mix of equipment on them. I guess some extras were specified and others were just chucked in at end of production.
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
Isn't that on the red pictogram display in the centre? Accessed via the steering wheel controls iirc from my Insignificants :-\
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Also, when I've looked at the trader, there are several with 'service vehicle soon' on the display in the speedo cluster. Most small dealers probably don't know that means you need at least one glow plug, or they do but won't replace them.
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
Isn't that on the red pictogram display in the centre? Accessed via the steering wheel controls iirc from my Insignificants :-\
That's the one, Al, but my display is just one line. I'll find a pic if I can.
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This is mine:
(https://i.ibb.co/DzH07GV/C9-DF8966-481-B-436-F-83-CC-A3-ECCB6-D5-E42.png) (https://ibb.co/k5sNh3H)
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
Isn't that on the red pictogram display in the centre? Accessed via the steering wheel controls iirc from my Insignificants :-\
That's the one, Al, but my display is just one line. I'll find a pic if I can.
Mid level display, they fitted the highline to cars with NAV, adaptive lights, plus a few other features enabled it
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Yep, so no codes for me, even though it's an elite. SRi got Bluetooth, mine got leather, heated seats, front and rear parking sensors and electric folding mirrors. Luck of the draw when buying second hand.
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By the way...I don't actually need any glow plugs but, no doubt, I will after tempting fate on this thread. :)
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Mine is the more basic information system, Mark, no codes.
No code 82 or similar?
Isn't that on the red pictogram display in the centre? Accessed via the steering wheel controls iirc from my Insignificants :-\
That's the one, Al, but my display is just one line. I'll find a pic if I can.
Mid level display, they fitted the highline to cars with NAV, adaptive lights, plus a few other features enabled it
That's the same display as both Insignificants... One was an Exlusive Plus, second was an SRi, both preface lift.
Sure I saw messages with a 00xx code on one of them :-\
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This one, top right?
(https://i.ibb.co/8dxLz6Z/A4974-D2-B-0614-46-A7-8605-DA7827149-D69.png) (https://ibb.co/VQCcH24)
That's the mid level display, much better than mine.
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Nope, same as your first pic.
As an experiment, pop the bonnet and start the car. You should get a message saying the bonnet is open along with, in top corner, a four digit number ;)
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No
(https://i.ibb.co/74frR9D/99-B5-A627-99-A3-48-FF-9346-AE2-E49804-BEE.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nCGQnWy)
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That's not running... But that said, the display is pretty clear ;)
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That's not running... But that said, the display is pretty clear ;)
Running would make no difference, that's what I get.
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;)
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Can anyone with access to any tech systems help me out please? I cannot find the electrical connector for the turbo boost actuator anywhere on the loom.
It should be a big 3 of 4 pin plug. All of the rest of the loom has just fallen into place and is quite clearly correct, but I just cannot find the plug for the turbo! There are some wires that run down the drivers side behind the air con pump bracket for things at the bottom of the engine like the oil pressure, alternator, exhaust sensor, but literally nothing that remotely resembles the turbo actuator!!
It’s really foxing me now. On the passenger side there is a spare three pin connector that pops out of the same part of the loom as the EGR valve, and I can’t find a home to that - but it’s nowhere near long enough to reach the turbo
If anyone has access to anything that could help - or indeed an Astra to open the bonnet and have a peek, I’d be v grateful. This is all that’s preventing me firing it up now!
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Although interestingly, looking at my photos prior to getting the spanner’s out - it appears maybe nothing was plugged into it originally! Can anyone confirm if there should be an electrical plug / actuator on the turbo itself please? :y
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Hmmm. Having just googled the turbo actuator it’s at the back of the engine, and I’ve located that. So what on earth is the plug on the turbo itself - some kind of diagnostic plug? :/
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Got a pic of the turbo?.
Most are vac actuated with a remote vac solenoid, 99% sure the Z17DTH is this type (probably a Honeywell)
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Got a pic of the turbo?.
Most are vac actuated with a remote vac solenoid, 99% sure the Z17DTH is this type (probably a Honeywell)
I’ll post one up but yes, the internet confirms the turbo vac solenoid is at the rear of the engine. So goodness knows what connector goes on the turbo itself.
Half wondering if the wrong component has been installed sometime.
Photos will be up in half hour :y
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Also just broke my pissing iPhone screen crawling under there, forgot it was in my pocket :'(
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Don't know a jot about Astras, and after 17 pages of comments would never consider purchasing one..😀
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The female connector on the turbo, which I can't find a plug for:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/20f8fcf7084ef322bf848dfc.jpg)
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/f14797b443a17789e3d4e3a1.jpg)
And the plug near the EGR valve which I also can't find a home for!
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/99/578946eded40637c23593fbe.jpg)
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Any obscured sensors that end of the head/block :-\
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Any obscured sensors that end of the head/block :-\
I’m going to pop the EGR back off, I remember thinking something like that in that region when I dismantled it :y
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Also just broke my pissing iPhone screen crawling under there, forgot it was in my pocket :'(
Bugger!!! :'( :'(
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Found The home for the missing connector at the top. Only mystery is the plug on the turbo :y
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Also just broke my pissing iPhone screen crawling under there, forgot it was in my pocket :'(
Bugger!!! :'( :'(
The irony is it cost more to buy than this car ;D
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Also just broke my pissing iPhone screen crawling under there, forgot it was in my pocket :'(
Bugger!!! :'( :'(
The irony is it cost more to buy than this car ;D
The thought had crossed my mind but didn't want to rub it in ;) ;)
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There's another one to add into the 'disasters during lockdown' thread :'(
But seriously, sorry to hear that James, especially as you were getting on so well.
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What is the cable that can be seen hanging below the turbo?
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I cant see an 1.7 CDTi turbo vac actuators with a sensor
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What is the cable that can be seen hanging below the turbo?
It’s a sensor that goes in the front of the exhaust :y
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I stand my reply, post #196. ;D
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What is the cable that can be seen hanging below the turbo?
It’s a sensor that goes in the front of the exhaust :y
Exhaust gas temperature sensor, I would be putting it back together and running it, if its an issue it will throw a code.
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There is jack all of value in a DPF, its just ceramic composites, its CATs and SCRs that have valuable metals in them.
And you shouldn't need to do anything to keep the ECU light off, its only a temperature and pressure sensor which can be left connected
I still say you need to get those injectors sorted, your piston failure was not foreign body caused, its overheated
I have been trying to get my head round that level of overheating. I assume that the injector must have been pissing fuel in all the time :-\
I also assume that it would be obvious to any normal driver that something was seriously amiss .
Is there any chance that something wiring or ECU related could cause this issue? I have this notion that some piezo injectors have to be turned off after they have been turned on. If the wiring to one of those piezo injectors becomes faulty then they can get stuck open. (Not saying that Astras have this type of injector BTW)
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Today’s progress in a video:
https://youtu.be/8-BZsOk7-Ec
Requires sound
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Today’s progress in a video:
https://youtu.be/8-BZsOk7-Ec
Requires sound
It's making cement mixer sounds so it must be fixed. :D
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Job jobbed 8)
Wipe its arse and kick it out the door :y
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Need to road test first :D
Here was the actual very first startup - again needs sound!
https://youtu.be/jZ9bU4vHK38
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Amazing what a bit of fuel can do :D
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Soooo pleased for you, mate. I never doubted you, and I mean that. :y
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I think you'll be amazed at the mpg you get from that, esp without any......erm.....restrictions in the exhaust department. ;D
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Cheers Steve / Folks - although note I say progress - this car isn't out of the woods yet!
But, it idles on all four, and there is no more blue smoke from oil burning, which means the core internals such as pistons, valves, seals, are now sorted, which is of course a huge milestone. Thanks for your support this far :y I am nothing more than a hobbyist mechanic, far from a professional, I know very little about these lumps, but for me it's about the enjoyment, and learning from the mistakes ... the whole point of this was to push me away from the Omega comfort zone :y :y
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Need to road test first :D
Here was the actual very first startup - again needs sound!
https://youtu.be/jZ9bU4vHK38
I hope you picked your other cars keys up from the slam panel! :y :y :y
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..... Only mystery is the plug on the turbo :y
So did you solve the mystery? :-\
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I think you'll be amazed at the mpg you get from that, esp without any......erm.....restrictions in the exhaust department. ;D
Anything has to be better than my current bus.
15mpg on a (very) good day on petrol ;D
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/534f80b1c55e9b88301935bf.jpg)
4.4 V8 Life 8) 8)
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....
Anything has to be better than my current bus.
15mpg on a (very) good day on petrol ;D ....
4.4 V8 Life 8) 8)
You obviously have deep pockets ;) ;)
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....
Anything has to be better than my current bus.
15mpg on a (very) good day on petrol ;D ....
4.4 V8 Life 8) 8)
You obviously have deep pockets ;) ;)
I am all for diesel technology, I like diesels immensely.
But to have anything other than a petrol V8 in a Range Rover, is a sin :y :y *
I say that tongue in cheek, because I know the TDV8 is a super lump.... it's just preference. If you're buying a car like that, MPG can't be a factor :y
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Well done mate .. excellent work and a great result :y :y :y
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Well done mate .. excellent work and a great result :y :y :y
Cheers Nige - I'm not counting my chickens - but it's definitely progress :y
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James, it is a pipe not an electrical connection👍 Looks confusing with the tie wrap still on the broken pipe.
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James, it is a pipe not an electrical connection👍 Looks confusing with the tie wrap still on the broken pipe.
No no - I don't mean the bit of remaining vacc pipe with the cable tie on it - I'm talking about the rectangular electrical connector just below it :y
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Sorry Mate I should have guessed :-[
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Sorry Mate I should have guessed :-[
It's ok - we have compression now and the ability to idle on all 4 - nothing to not like about that!! :y
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Well done James,cracking result.
Nice Rangie too :y
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I see you have the ticking EGR on switch off, ours does that too, aparently it's to stop the valve sticking.
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Awesome result James! :y
And I'm ever so slightly jealous of your FFRR! 8)
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I was worried this morning. I started her up, and soon afterwards, she was coughing and stuttering. I gave her a gentle rev, there was a clear injector rattle, and a mushroom cloud (I cannot begin to say how much) grey diesel smoke from the exhaust. I certainly won't be getting any neighbourly awards anytime soon ::) It took me by surprise, stank, and went as far as the eye could see :-[ which wasn't very far, by the thickness of it.
This was followed by a misfire, but not for long enough to log a code -(even a pending one) - I had to turn it off.
Running it on the driveway even for diags wasn't an option after that, so I took it out for a careful spin (I am lucky enough to live right next to some really remove country lanes where you see one car an hour). Anyway, after less than 2 miles smoking, it went away completely, and runs clean as a whistle.
I obviously can't give it a proper long run during the lockdown, but I did the ten miles to the nearest big supermarket, to top up on core essentials, such as crates of lager, and BBQ charcoal, using A roads.
I was pleasantly surprised. I didn't go over 3,000 rpm, but it's very drivable. The clutch/box is brilliant, handling exactly as expected - everything works. There is little initial turbo lag, and the turbo works as expected. Computer says 48mpg, having reset it before setting off.
But, there's a definite injector clatter if accelerating under load, and a slight drop in power / occasional hesitation, which I think is linked.
Thought process
1) It's had open heart surgery. Treat it to a tank of V power, drive carefully, see what it's like afterwards.
2) No4 injector is a second hand one. The original No4 we know is goosed. (We know this because when I swapped 1 and 4 before the repair, neither pots fired, whereas before the swap, no1 did). Maybe this injector needs coding to work properly, and is the noisy one because it's not coded?
3) Forget coding the injector - send the duff (but original, and coded) no4 injector off for reconditioning, then fit it.
4) Do some sort of leak-back test, to see if I can identify the unhappy injector?
I'm only guessing it's number 4, but it could be any of them. I've seen the leak-back tests on ebay, which look quite good.
Opinions please ladies and gents - This is not my area of expertise, I'm just trying to apply common sense.
I should add - no pending, or stored codes after a 20 mile round trip, which means i must have at least got it right putting it back together ;D
It's perfectly usable as it is, but it's not right. And, given we now have compression, and are not burning oil, I don't want to undo that good work by running it with a duff injector that will mess up the internals again :y
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£30 a year road tax, though!!? :-* :-* :-* :-* 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
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Option three would be a reasonable one.
Re confirming which injector is tapping, use a long 1/4" extension and place one end against each injector in turn whilst holding tother end between finger and thumb. Should be able to readily identify the grumpy one.
Don’t overlook a potential wiring fault causing poor injector operation ;)
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Option three would be a reasonable one.
Re confirming which injector is tapping, use a long 1/4" extension and place one end against each injector in turn whilst holding tother end between finger and thumb. Should be able to readily identify the grumpy one.
Don’t overlook a potential wiring fault causing poor injector operation ;)
Cheers DG, I'll warm her up tomorrow and then do that :y
I should add, during the test run - she ran on all 4, continuously - no misfiring :y
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leak down test can be done with some fish tank air line or washer jet pipe and 4 empty pop bottles
plenty of youtube videos :y
costs nothing and gives a good indication on what all 4 injectors are doing :-\
you could temporarily blank the EGR to test drive,rule that out :-\
are you sure you swapped the duff injector for the used one (after moving it to other cylinder)
Migv6 le Frog Fan (Albs) had injector problems recently with his French tractor
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The smoke on start up suggests an injector leak, so option 4 whilst you are waiting for the refurbished one ;)
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The smoke on start up suggests an injector leak, so option 4 whilst you are waiting for the refurbished one ;)
I'll be interested in how she behaves from a cold start tomorrow.....
With that said, she was smokey from the moment I ran her, when revved, after the rebuild. The injector hadn't had any fuel by that point, so can't see it would have leaked over time :-\
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Don't underestimate the fuel pressure, any leak or wrong duration will add far more fuel that the ecu has accounted for.
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Don't underestimate the fuel pressure, any leak or wrong duration will add far more fuel that the ecu has accounted for.
That's Very interesting, DG.
On the very first ever start up, after a couple of minutes, I noticed that during the rebuild, I had somehow :( forgotten to tighten up what I think is a return union of some sort on the rail, and diesel was pissing everywhere, which caused the engine to run terribly after it's first two minutes running.
I tightened it up, and it seemed to smooth out again - but I wonder if it's a knock on effect from that, and just took a while to sort itself out.......
I had forgotten about it - as it's not unusual to make oversights on a job like that, but now you mention fuel pressure / leaks.......:y
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leak down test can be done with some fish tank air line or washer jet pipe and 4 empty pop bottles
plenty of youtube videos :y
costs nothing and gives a good indication on what all 4 injectors are doing :-\
you could temporarily blank the EGR to test drive,rule that out :-\
are you sure you swapped the duff injector for the used one (after moving it to other cylinder)
Migv6 le Frog Fan (Albs) had injector problems recently with his French tractor
Good advice. This was very helpful in diagnosing my injector issues. There are videos on youtube to show its done, although it really is pretty much as simple as it sounds.
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So the cold start this morning. Fired up first time, but didn't idle very smoothly. Some smoke, but not much, and quickly cleared.
When I went to gently accelerate in first gear, the engine just bogged down, and nearly stalled, but then came back into life again. Did this a couple of times, but didn't last long.
Now I don't think that is "an injector". One single injector would, at worst, surely just cause a misfire - and even running on three, it wouldn't behave like that. It was as if the fuel had just been turned off for a moment or two.
Interestingly the fuel gauge had just dropped into the red. I have put in a couple of bottles of wynnes ultimate diesel treatment along with half a tank of fuel in, and the fuel starvation / trying to cut out symptom has seemingly disappeared. The injector also doesn't seem quite so noisy, but it still feels a bit asthmatic / not quite right, especially in the lower gears / revs.
I wish I could look at the injector coding, but the tool I Cannot name just will not support it on an Astra J - it's quite well documented that it doesn't work with this model, for some reason.
Sadly I'm now at work for a few days, so not so much time to play around with it
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You'll get there, James, it's all good experience :y
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Don't discount the EGR, sounds very similar symptoms to what ours had. Cleaned it (fully - solenoid as well) a few times but it still failed eventually, new one was the only answer and I was lucky to win a new genuine one on eBay for less than half the price of a dealer supplied one.
Ours did raise EGR codes though along with complete lack of power which required code reset to make it driveable again! Also cleaning the boost valve (one torx) is a worthwhile excercise.
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you could temporarily blank the EGR to test drive,rule that out :-\
Don't discount the EGR, sounds very similar symptoms to what ours had. Cleaned it (fully - solenoid as well) a few times but it still failed eventually, new one was the only answer and I was lucky to win a new genuine one on eBay for less than half the price of a dealer supplied one.
Ours did raise EGR codes though along with complete lack of power which required code reset to make it driveable again! Also cleaning the boost valve (one torx) is a worthwhile excercise.
Yep, one of my thoughts too :y
also a dirty MAF has similar symptoms :-\
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Bit disheartened. I have a niggling thought that - it the compression on No4 maybe not high enough, and that's why it's not running great.
I might order a diesel compression tester, be good to have one anyway!
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I'll get an EGR blank anyway.
I also wonder if the cat is a bit blocked. Look at the state the DPF was in, the amount of shit going through the exhaust before the repair was hideous...
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Bit disheartened. I have a niggling thought that - it the compression on No4 maybe not high enough, and that's why it's not running great.
did you check the ring gap on 4 with new piston and rings ?
you ground the valves ,so compression should not be an issue :-\
it's not unusual to have a few niggles ,don't be disheartened ,you'll sort it :)
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It wont be EGR, they cant cause a miss fire on a diesel, just a lack of boost.
Injectors are a favourite, second hand ones are a waste of money to be honest as you have absolutely no idea what condition or mileage they are.
And a single injector can cause a very random set of results, if they leak they lower the rail pressure and impact the other potentially good ones.
Injectors also need to be coded to work properly, the parameters set the time to open, time to close, flow rate etc
As for the 'tool' try selecting an alternative car line which had that engine (it went in the Mokka, Meriva, Corsa, Astra etc etc)
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It wont be EGR, they cant cause a miss fire on a diesel, just a lack of boost.
Injectors are a favourite, second hand ones are a waste of money to be honest as you have absolutely no idea what condition or mileage they are.
And a single injector can cause a very random set of results, if they leak they lower the rail pressure and impact the other potentially good ones.
Injectors also need to be coded to work properly, the parameters set the time to open, time to close, flow rate etc
As for the 'tool' try selecting an alternative car line which had that engine (it went in the Mokka, Meriva, Corsa, Astra etc etc)
Thanks, Mark
Just because it's the most inexpensive, quick and easy option, I dropped it at my local independent garage tonight. I usually only ever go there for MOT, but, the chap that recently took the business over, who I think is about my age, always talks to me at length about my Omega stuff and is genuinely interested at the projects I take on. He seems knowledgeable and honest and passionate about cars, so I thought why not.
I had a chat with him about what I've done with this one, and showed him some of the pictures, such as the piston, and valve lapping.
He is going to see if their kit will do the injector codes tomorrow, and if so, he's going to make sure all 4 injectors are correctly coded.
Nothing to lose, and I don't feel like they'd try and rip me off. based on the fact I showed them pictures of me taking the engine into a million parts!
I should add - that fuel starvation symptom I described, I think was actually fuel starvation ::) :-[ :-[ The car was on the red, and at the point it lost all power, was grumbling something about "fill me up" ::)
I filled her to the brim with V power, and used her for work today. Now not missing a beat, and seemingly not really hesitating, or smoking. Just very "diesely" now.
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Back from the garage. It's not fixed it, but in fairness may have given me something to go on.
The chap said to me "I was able to programme in the code from the top of each injector, but it wouldn't let me do the small adjustment process afterwards, because it says the fuel temperature sensor is out of range". He said to sort out that fault, and bring it back.
So it looks like the injectors are now coded, at least.
No difference in running, still very clattery and diesely.
Interestingly, the EML was not on when I dropped it off, and has never been on, but, it was on when I collected the car. My ODB2 hand held is saying no codes, despite the light being still on - so I will connect up the tool that must not be named shortly, and see what that has to say.
I would have thought if I'd have missed a fuel temp sensor on the rebuild, it would have thrown a light before now? Does anyone know where it is, on this engine? I can't see anything obvious on / around the rail, etc, apart from the big plug in the end of it, which I'm guessing is rail pressure?
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Might be near the filter :-\
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
Fry up! You bastard 🥓🍳🍅 starving here :'(
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
How many wires to the sensor on the fuel rail?
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
Fry up! You bastard 🥓🍳🍅 starving here :'(
Danish bacon, chiploata sausages, fried eggs, beans, tomatoes, hash browns, toast and butter, and a nice cuppa tea :-*
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Well, there's no point having a crap cup of tea :D
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
Fry up! You bastard 🥓🍳🍅 starving here :'(
Danish bacon, chiploata sausages, fried eggs, beans, tomatoes, hash browns, toast and butter, and a nice cuppa tea :-*
Hope yer fickin astra explodes! ;D
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
Fry up! You bastard 🥓🍳🍅 starving here :'(
Danish bacon, chiploata sausages, fried eggs, beans, tomatoes, hash browns, toast and butter, and a nice cuppa tea :-*
Hope yer fickin astra explodes! ;D
It'll be more likely my guts that explode, they seem incapable of processing that much fatty food in one go, I'll give it an hour until I'm legging it upstairs, tops. Worth it, though ;D
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Might be near the filter :-\
I've had a look for the part online - there's seemingly no such thing. I wonder if it's built into the pressure sensor.
I'll see what the kit says shortly - decided to chill out for an hour and have a fry up, first :y
How many wires to the sensor on the fuel rail?
Three :y
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Ecu Pos feed, and temp and pressure returns :-\
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Ecu Pos feed, and temp and pressure returns :-\
I've just read the temp sensor is built into the filter housing, under the car. About to have a look, I'm just setting up the desktop PC outside to read the codes, as my laptop has linux on ::) :y
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Ecu Pos feed, and temp and pressure returns :-\
I've just read the temp sensor is built into the filter housing, under the car. About to have a look, I'm just setting up the desktop PC outside to read the codes, as my laptop has linux on ::) :y
Take the easy route and bring the car inside.
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Ok, so the only error stored in the ECU, is:
"P06B-41 Fuel Injection Small Quantity Not Learned - Not Programmed".
This makes sense, because the garage said that, after coding the injectors, the small quantity learning was needed, but the process was failing because of an error message about the fuel temperature sensor.
So I have found the fuel temperature sensor. It's here, next to the tank:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/9fc35597142ae84263741b11.jpg)
You can see it's integrated with the fuel filter housing. There was nothing obviously wrong, the connector was a bit dirty externally, but was seated.
I've taken it off, cleaned it up, and the garage are going to try again tomorrow.
If that doesn't work, I'm not sure what else to try? The car is running worse now , very diesely.
I've tried suggestions about the "tool" such as trying different variants, such as mokka, Zafira, of varying years.
On the Astra J, none of the options even appear for injector programming, etc. With the Astra H, the options are all there, "replace injector" and "small adjustment learning" etc etc, buy they don't work.
It's reading the VIN correctly so it's not a driver issue, etc. Not sure what else I can do, if it doesn't work at the garage. I don't want to take it to a stealer!
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Replace the temperature sensor?
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don't let the reader read and identify the vin :y
manual input as 2010> astra h > engine> y17dth or similar
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Fuel temperature sensor is in the fuel filter.
However, the code you see is often seen after messing with the DPF, check the pressure sensor and connections
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don't let the reader read and identify the vin :y
manual input as 2010> astra h > engine> y17dth or similar
Done that - doesn't work :( Am currently trying a firmware upgrade
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Fuel temperature sensor is in the fuel filter.
However, the code you see is often seen after messing with the DPF, check the pressure sensor and connections
All are home, present, and correct :y
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Can you get it to the Nottingham area? ;D
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don't let the reader read and identify the vin :y
manual input as 2010> astra h > engine> y17dth or similar
Done that - doesn't work :( Am currently trying a firmware upgrade
On the reader that shall not be named? if so, you'll need to order a new one ;)
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don't let the reader read and identify the vin :y
manual input as 2010> astra h > engine> y17dth or similar
Done that - doesn't work :( Am currently trying a firmware upgrade
On the reader that shall not be named? if so, you'll need to order a new one ;)
Yep! Although even then, the listings say they have very limited ability just on Astra J :(
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don't let the reader read and identify the vin :y
manual input as 2010> astra h > engine> y17dth or similar
Done that - doesn't work :( Am currently trying a firmware upgrade
On the reader that shall not be named? if so, you'll need to order a new one ;)
Successfully updated from v1,45 to 1.59 without breaking it m
Or are you saying I need to order a new one with v 1.99?
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Been a while since I used one, but clicking upgrade used to physically destory the chip, game over time.
Ive no experience on them on later cars
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Been a while since I used one, but clicking upgrade used to physically destory the chip, game over time.
Ive no experience on them on later cars
I think that’s if you click “internet update”. This was a manual firmware upgrade :y
Car is back with the garage. Since they’ve coded the injectors it’s undrivable. It’s running on 4 but massively over fuelling and ticking and chucking out smoke
Let’s hope today they can do those adjustments otherwise I don’t know where to turn. I can’t drive it far like that, too much risk of damage with that much fuel going in :(
Wish I’d left it now. Other than being noisy it was running ok before I took it in!
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So what exactly was the fault codes?
Code and suffix (so 4 digits plus 2)
Astra J is full CAN hence there may be hardware difference in the diagnostics comms
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"P06B-41 Fuel Injection Small Quantity Not Learned - Not Programmed".
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"P06B-41 Fuel Injection Small Quantity Not Learned - Not Programmed".
That's not a valid code as its 3 digits and 2 digits :y
P062B-41?
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"P06B-41 Fuel Injection Small Quantity Not Learned - Not Programmed".
That's not a valid code as its 3 digits and 2 digits :y
P062B-41?
Sorry mark just checked my photo of the “tool” output - that’s the one :y
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Quick search;
https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/engine/engine_control_and_fuel_system_1.7l_diesel_(lpl_or_lpv)/diagnostic_information_and_procedures/miscellaneous/dtc_p0601_p0606_p060a_p060e_p0610_p061a_p062a_p062b_or_p062f_lpl_or_lpv/ (https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/engine/engine_control_and_fuel_system_1.7l_diesel_(lpl_or_lpv)/diagnostic_information_and_procedures/miscellaneous/dtc_p0601_p0606_p060a_p060e_p0610_p061a_p062a_p062b_or_p062f_lpl_or_lpv/)
If code persists, replace K20 engine control module.
Is this the problem which caused the initial faiulure?? :-\ :-[
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Quick search;
https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/engine/engine_control_and_fuel_system_1.7l_diesel_(lpl_or_lpv)/diagnostic_information_and_procedures/miscellaneous/dtc_p0601_p0606_p060a_p060e_p0610_p061a_p062a_p062b_or_p062f_lpl_or_lpv/ (https://workshop-manuals.com/vauxhall/astra-j/engine/engine_control_and_fuel_system_1.7l_diesel_(lpl_or_lpv)/diagnostic_information_and_procedures/miscellaneous/dtc_p0601_p0606_p060a_p060e_p0610_p061a_p062a_p062b_or_p062f_lpl_or_lpv/)
If code persists, replace K20 engine control module.
Is this the problem which caused the initial faiulure?? :-\ :-[
The code is there because the injectors were coded but they couldn’t compete the small learning procedure because of a fuel temperature error.
We will see how they get on today :y
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Hmmm, usually the idle learn process requires a minimum stable rail pressure, engine temp (typically at or above 80 degrees C) and fuel temp (30 degrees C rings a bell).
The latter can take a while to achieve, usually needs a hot engine plus some heat soak, if its throwing an issue with this the first thing a competent mech should do is look at the fuel temp live value to see if its not quite upto temperature OR if its a ridiculous reading which hints a fault.
When the learn happens, the ECU will raise the rail pressure to max (a few thousand Bar) and then trim the injection pulses to get optimum idle. The learnt values are also a useful indication of injector condition as they should be fairly similar (its worth asking for them)
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...
the ECU will raise the rail pressure to max (a few thousand Bar) and .....
How much? :o :o :o :o :o :o
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...
the ECU will raise the rail pressure to max (a few thousand Bar) and .....
How much? :o :o :o :o :o :o
.
Around 26106 PSI.
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...
the ECU will raise the rail pressure to max (a few thousand Bar) and .....
How much? :o :o :o :o :o :o
From stuff I've read, on this engine it's 1800bar / 26,106PSI
Anyhow. I also had my suspicions that (due to the fact I'd left it there the night before) they had done it with a cold engine.
So, this time, I took it for a spin and delivered it fully up to temperature.
The learning process worked this time. Not sure if this was a result of me cleaning the temperature sensor plug, or being up to temperature, but either way, it worked :y
Car seems to have ceased over fuelling now and is not chucking out smoke.
So, we have 4 injectors which we know are correctly coded to the ECU :y
On the way back from the garage, though, I noticed the car was noisier and more rattly than ever. I think I've identified what the cause of that is, I'm just off out to investigate it and I'll post up for sure if it's what I think it is. Clue - it's not a diesel injector ::) :-[
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No.....just a diesel. ;D
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Wow this is a long thread about an Astra , think I would have moved it on & bought something else.
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Wow this is a long thread about an Astra
Nobody is forced to read it :y
think I would have moved it on & bought something else.
I don’t like giving up. And I didn’t but the car for what it is / isn’t - I just fancied a challenge. From when it arrived, I think loads of progress has been made, and for me that makes me happy.
I find it interesting, anyway :y
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Wow this is a long thread about an Astra , think I would have moved it on & bought something else.
Not as long as think of a word that's nothing like the last word and repeat 2 million times ;D
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Wow this is a long thread about an Astra , think I would have moved it on & bought something else.
You may have, James will not, he does not give up, and enjoys the challenge👍
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I think was responsible for some of the noise ::) :-[ ;D
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/e3685a6bea618e036392a63c.jpg)
Two of the bolts have sheared off inside the sprocket. I'm hoping I can remove them without having to remove the cambelt and sprocket, the centre bolt looks like it's 10000000000 nm tight!
On a serious note, I'm genuinely, sure I torqued the crank pulley bolts up. I remember having the ratchet on them.
I've ordered a new pulley for tomorrow, so hopefully I'll get this sorted without too much ado :y
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At least the cam belt doesn't go around that ::)
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The crankshaft pulley is a harmonic damper ,takes a beating on a diesel
center bolt on the petrol ones are stretch/one use and need replacing
obviously yours is diesel but I imagine they are similar torque values
with the crankshaft locked ,I always manage to crack them loose (Brute force and ignorance )
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At least the cam belt doesn't go around that ::)
Indeed. Lucky escape all round, imagine bending a valve and having to take all that apart again ;D
I'll get those threads extracted, and fit a new pulley tomorrow, hopefully. Will new steel bolts, and some thread lock !!!
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Jokes aside, I breathed a big sigh of relief, when I found that. The pulley was visibly rattling around, and was a clear source of a lot of the noise I've been experiencing, and all in all is not a terrible job to do.
Now the coding / ECU / Fuelling etc also seems happy, I am hopeful that all it's going to take, is a new pulley, for a very happy car :D
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Just the clutch on the alternator now then ;D :-X :o
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Just the clutch on the alternator now then ;D :-X :o
Shhhhhhhhhhhhh!! All in good time!!!! ;D
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Worked out what I had done wrong, today.
I have been beating myself up, thinking, I just must, have tightened the crank pulley bolts. I double and triple check stuff like that. And I remember doing it.
But.
I fitted the wrong length bolts :-[ :-[ :-[ They were marginly too long, which meant they tightened in the holes, without fully clamping the pulley against the sprocket :(
Thus - it wiggled around, cut itself through the bolts, and elongated the bolt holes, as seen here:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/e3685a6bea618e036392a63c.jpg)
It also broke off half the existing bolts flush with the sprocket.
So, no problem thought I. I'll just get a new crank pulley and sprocket, no harm done.
Then I dug out the drills and the taps.
Started by taking the cambelt back off, so engine back off it's mount, and also bottom sprocket bolt successfully removed:
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/45b31e9ffd8776f49fe61191.jpg)
Made, and threaded, some more M8 x 1.25 holes in the crank sprocket. Not a work of art, I don't even have a vice or bench here, and had to do it with a hand-held drill - but, very functional.
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/e85b17006e0bd32e8e35fc76.jpg)
I attached the pulley to the sprocket first, and drilled through the pulley to make some new corresponding holes in that also.
Then, using thread lock, I've tightened some M8 threads into the sprocket as far as they will safely go, with enough protuding for the crank pulley to slot over. I will then fit nylock nuts over the ends and torque back up, doing it that way, I get the maximum purchase for each hole.
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/15fd755c37358489e44b2aac.jpg)
There are in total, seven fasteners holding this on now. It won't go anywhere, fast.
Who said make do and mend culture was dead? :y :y :y
I probably will fit a new sprocket and pulley for once I know the car's running right, but I'm not shelling out into the hundreds on a project car until it's proven.
I'll get the belt back on and the engine back together once more tomorrow :y :y
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Worked out what I had done wrong, today.
.......
Who said make do and mend culture was dead? :y :y :y
.........
I probably will fit a new sprocket and pulley for once I know the car's running right, but I'm not shelling out into the hundreds on a project car until it's proven.
I'll get the belt back on and the engine back together once more tomorrow :y :y
Nice job, and as you say, silly to throw more money at it until you know it's fully sorted. :y I don't like things beating me either. How annoying would that have been for you to have moved it on, only for the new owner to say "Ere, guess what, that rattling noise was just the pulley bolts bottoming out". You'd be well pissed wouldn't you, so fair play for sticking with it. :y
Fingers crossed for the next test run. :y
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Thinking this through, shouldn't those bolts have had washers? Were they not the original ones?
Kind of the same question from opposite ends, but you'll not want to going through all the palaver just to repeat it :y
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I put the bolts back in their holes and keep assemblies/parts and their fixings separate to each other for this reason.
your getting there now :)
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I put the bolts back in their holes and keep assemblies/parts and their fixings separate to each other for this reason.
your getting there now :)
I sort of do :D especially if you've ten bolts of different lengths like gearbox to engine...
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I put the bolts back in their holes and keep assemblies/parts and their fixings separate to each other for this reason.
your getting there now :)
I'll take that on the chin, admittedly I should have been a bit more organised with labelling stuff on a strange engine, etc, but life goes on, and all that ends well, etc.
So today I finished my crank pulley bodge repair, got the cambelt all setup and installed, along with the aux belt and engine mount.
Sounds like a different car. So, so much quieter.
Went out for a brief run, and despite the garage being successful in doing the injector small adjustments, and that fault code now gone, it was still massively over fuelling. You could hear the difference in engine tone, and it stank (although wasn't particularly smokey).
Computer was reading 28mpg.
Not sure what made me do this, but I then decided rather than using the hand held rubbish, I would check the codes with my special chinese tool. It showed a MAF code, which the hand held didn't show. Then it twigged, I think I ran it briefly without the MAF when trying to look closer at the crank pulley.
So, a code reset with the special tool and the laptop, reset the trip computer, and tried again.
Ahhhhhhhhhhhh that's better. A much nicer, quieter, smoother engine note - and an average of 55mpg :y
Next job is to order and fit a a complete new exhaust system, and then I'm just going to run her for 500 miles and see how she behaves going forward. If all is well after say 1,000 miles, it will be a new cambelt kit, aux belt, another oil and filter, and hopefully I'll have some faithful service from her :y
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Well done :y
it's a nice feeling when you sort all the problems and niggles and have a car behave :)
the Chinese reader does seem to find all the codes etc ,unlike generic code readers
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Nice one James, hope it hasn’t got the virus now though ;D
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Nice one James, hope it hasn’t got the virus now though ;D
the diesel fumes will kill the Virus ;)
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https://youtu.be/8QaHbnpvfII
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Awesome! 8)
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Much quieter than mine.
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Much quieter than mine.
Mines quieter and has 2 more cylinders ;D
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Hearty congratulations, James. I have followed this thread with interest and excitement, and admire your frankness and honesty as you admit the occasional mistake, or turn to your local garage for help.
I imagined it was the ECU that picked up error codes, and the reader that read them. Were the codes that only the special Chinese device picked up transient codes the ECU failed to store, or deemed not worthy of storage?
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Hearty congratulations, James. I have followed this thread with interest and excitement, and admire your frankness and honesty as you admit the occasional mistake, or turn to your local garage for help.
I imagined it was the ECU that picked up error codes, and the reader that read them. Were the codes that only the special Chinese device picked up transient codes the ECU failed to store, or deemed not worthy of storage?
Cheers, mate, but I'm not counting the trip to the garage, as it was only to type in some codes onto a screen, due to me not having programming kit here :y :y ;)
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So the question is, which part of the engine now has bolts which are to short?
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So the question is, which part of the engine now has bolts which are to short?
Exactly what I was wondering. That could be the next thread ;D
Certainly pays to be entirely methodical with these things no matter how well you know and engine....
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So the question is, which part of the engine now has bolts which are to short?
Exactly what I was wondering. That could be the next thread ;D
Certainly pays to be entirely methodical with these things no matter how well you know and engine....
Bolts....next thread.....I see what you did there ;D
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So the question is, which part of the engine now has bolts which are to short?
(https://www.mycarphotos.co.uk/images/photos/988/5/e3685a6bea618e036392a63c.jpg)
There appears to be a rusty ring on the front of the pulley as if there used to be a spacer there.
Anyone seen a metal ring with 4 holes on it lying around?
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I made an error, I'm human, the world will keep turning. None of the other bolts in the engine had any issues with purchase, so if there are a couple of mm too short, it won't cause the end of civilisation.
I do agree it looks like there was something there, AndyH. But nothing was fitted at the point I removed it. But thanks for the reminder, I may google it, and see if other cars have any sort of spacer. If so, I'll get one :y
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90 odd miles in the last three days - running lovely, quiet, powerful, drives beautifully. I've learnt a few things, and having never worked on one of these before, I'm still chalking it up as an overall result :y
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I made an error, I'm human, the world will keep turning. None of the other bolts in the engine had any issues with purchase, so if there are a couple of mm too short, it won't cause the end of civilisation.
I do agree it looks like there was something there, AndyH. But nothing was fitted at the point I removed it. But thanks for the reminder, I may google it, and see if other cars have any sort of spacer. If so, I'll get one :y
Sorry James - I wasn't having a dig at you.
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90 odd miles in the last three days - running lovely, quiet, powerful, drives beautifully. I've learnt a few things, and having never worked on one of these before, I'm still chalking it up as an overall result :y
Another diesel convert :y
Opti next.
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
Mine does one about every 300 miles, lasts about 10 mins, as you say. The idle speed creeps up from about 850 to 950, that's how I can tell and know not to switch off.
It's a pressure reading from the dpf that sets it off, so could the ecu be getting a signal from somewhere?
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
Mine does one about every 300 miles, lasts about 10 mins, as you say. The idle speed creeps up from about 850 to 950, that's how I can tell and know not to switch off.
It's a pressure reading from the dpf that sets it off, so could the ecu be getting a signal from somewhere?
I think it works on sensing the pressure differential between the exhaust gasses before and then after the DPF. But in my simple head, with the DPF being empty, there shouldn’t be enough of a pressure difference for it to assume any blockage, which makes me wonder why it’s trying to regenerate itself so much :-\
This is all academic anyway as I’d have to fit a DPF anyway if I ever sold the car. Now the engine is in good order I might just do that anyway. It’s unlikely to clog now, and would prevent any issues at MOT time
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Has it got a cat fitted too? If so maybe it’s something to do with that
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
Mine does one about every 300 miles, lasts about 10 mins, as you say. The idle speed creeps up from about 850 to 950, that's how I can tell and know not to switch off.
It's a pressure reading from the dpf that sets it off, so could the ecu be getting a signal from somewhere?
I think it works on sensing the pressure differential between the exhaust gasses before and then after the DPF. But in my simple head, with the DPF being empty, there shouldn’t be enough of a pressure difference for it to assume any blockage, which makes me wonder why it’s trying to regenerate itself so much :-\
This is all academic anyway as I’d have to fit a DPF anyway if I ever sold the car. Now the engine is in good order I might just do that anyway. It’s unlikely to clog now, and would prevent any issues at MOT time
You did delete the dpf from the car?
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Good point
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
Mine does one about every 300 miles, lasts about 10 mins, as you say. The idle speed creeps up from about 850 to 950, that's how I can tell and know not to switch off.
It's a pressure reading from the dpf that sets it off, so could the ecu be getting a signal from somewhere?
I think it works on sensing the pressure differential between the exhaust gasses before and then after the DPF. But in my simple head, with the DPF being empty, there shouldn’t be enough of a pressure difference for it to assume any blockage, which makes me wonder why it’s trying to regenerate itself so much :-\
This is all academic anyway as I’d have to fit a DPF anyway if I ever sold the car. Now the engine is in good order I might just do that anyway. It’s unlikely to clog now, and would prevent any issues at MOT time
You did delete the dpf from the car?
No, I physically removed it.
DPF “delete” refers to writing the DPF system out of the cars ECU software, so it thinks it hasn’t got one, and therefore doesn’t try to regen or use the DPF sensor info, etc :y
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Still a few niggles
Every now and again (each 50 miles or so) the engine ECU is initiating a passive DPF regeneration. This is where, for about ten minutes, it increases the fuelling, to “burn off” soot inside the DPF. This increases the heat in the exhaust and the engine and while as an occasional thing isn’t harmful, it wouldn’t do any good to let it keep happening. It also kills MPG.
In my simple mind, I don’t understand why it’s trying to do a passive regen. It can’t be sensing the DPF internals are getting full, when there’s none in there ::)
Mine does one about every 300 miles, lasts about 10 mins, as you say. The idle speed creeps up from about 850 to 950, that's how I can tell and know not to switch off.
It's a pressure reading from the dpf that sets it off, so could the ecu be getting a signal from somewhere?
I think it works on sensing the pressure differential between the exhaust gasses before and then after the DPF. But in my simple head, with the DPF being empty, there shouldn’t be enough of a pressure difference for it to assume any blockage, which makes me wonder why it’s trying to regenerate itself so much :-\
This is all academic anyway as I’d have to fit a DPF anyway if I ever sold the car. Now the engine is in good order I might just do that anyway. It’s unlikely to clog now, and would prevent any issues at MOT time
You did delete the dpf from the car?
No, I physically removed it.
DPF “delete” refers to writing the DPF system out of the cars ECU software, so it thinks it hasn’t got one, and therefore doesn’t try to regen or use the DPF sensor info, etc :y
Well.....I know that, James ;D
So...did you do it?
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So, if you take out the dpf and don't delete the software, it will still think there's one there...and do strange things....like a regen every farts end.
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https://www.vectra-c.com/forum/showthread.php?150367-DPF-remove-*without*-remap
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Yes because as far as the car knows it’s still on there until you tell the ecu.
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Ordered the new DPF - back exhaust tonight. Current one is rotten :y
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Every 40 miles or so, I get a fault code, DPF low effeciency.
Not sure that can be, given it's empty!!
When it does this, it over fuels, and stinks like a bad bbq
I fear I may just fit a pattern DPF :-X
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Every 40 miles or so, I get a fault code, DPF low effeciency.
Not sure that can be, given it's empty!!
When it does this, it over fuels, and stinks like a bad bbq
I fear I may just fit a pattern DPF :-X
Thought you'd ordered a new dpf?
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Every 40 miles or so, I get a fault code, DPF low effeciency.
Not sure that can be, given it's empty!!
When it does this, it over fuels, and stinks like a bad bbq
I fear I may just fit a pattern DPF :-X
Thought you'd ordered a new dpf?
No you're misreading. I said I'd ordered a new "DPF Back" exhaust, meaning everything behind the DPF :y
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Ah, I see. Thought it was already decided that it needed replacing or software remapped.
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Ah, I see. Thought it was already decided that it needed replacing or software remapped.
It was. Just haven't pulled my finger out!
If I was going to keep her, I'd try be tempted to try and fudge the sensors somehow. But, I anticipate in a few months, I will sell her on in order to buy a bigger and better project... and I wouldn't sell it without a DPF, and risk the new owner running foul of MOT rules :y
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Ah, I see. Thought it was already decided that it needed replacing or software remapped.
It was. Just haven't pulled my finger out!
If I was going to keep her, I'd try be tempted to try and fudge the sensors somehow. But, I anticipate in a few months, I will sell her on in order to buy a bigger and better project... and I wouldn't sell it without a DPF, and risk the new owner running foul of MOT rules :y
Would you not be better with a used OE DPF? :-\
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Ah, I see. Thought it was already decided that it needed replacing or software remapped.
It was. Just haven't pulled my finger out!
If I was going to keep her, I'd try be tempted to try and fudge the sensors somehow. But, I anticipate in a few months, I will sell her on in order to buy a bigger and better project... and I wouldn't sell it without a DPF, and risk the new owner running foul of MOT rules :y
Good luck here, unless your good at automotive electronic design and sw programming :y
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Ah, I see. Thought it was already decided that it needed replacing or software remapped.
It was. Just haven't pulled my finger out!
If I was going to keep her, I'd try be tempted to try and fudge the sensors somehow. But, I anticipate in a few months, I will sell her on in order to buy a bigger and better project... and I wouldn't sell it without a DPF, and risk the new owner running foul of MOT rules :y
Would you not be better with a used OE DPF? :-\
I certainly wouldn't consider a used dpf. They have a life span even when treated right, and you'd have no idea how it had been used. Quite a few drivers don't understand it's purpose or even what a regen is.
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.....
I certainly wouldn't consider a used dpf. They have a life span even when treated right, and you'd have no idea how it had been used. Quite a few drivers don't understand it's purpose or even what a regen is.
I see what you mean but cost dependant it might have been an idea rather than shell out £££££s for a new pattern DPF
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About £200 for a pattern DPF on an Astra, think there are two types dependent on the exhaust fixing (slotted or drilled hole).
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
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Can you buy a used one and clean it before it’s put on?
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Plenty of companies will squirt a magic solution through it for you. But why bother when £200 buys you a cheap replacement?
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Plenty of companies will squirt a magic solution through it for you. But why bother when £200 buys you a cheap replacement?
Is the cheap pattern worth fitting? They say that pattern cats are crap so are pattern DPFs any better? :-\
I really meant, was there anything off the shelf you could buy to sort it DIY?
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Plenty of companies will squirt a magic solution through it for you. But why bother when £200 buys you a cheap replacement?
Is the cheap pattern worth fitting? They say that pattern cats are crap so are pattern DPFs any better? :-\
I really meant, was there anything off the shelf you could buy to sort it DIY?
Not that I know of. If you pay £200 for a cheap dpf and it lasts 3 years, I'd say that was ok.
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Don't know how many miles James' astra has done, but there are plenty for sale with over 100,000.
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Yes, it is possible to fully clean and de-ash a DPF, its been done for years on commercial vehicles :y
.........and its more than just squirting a fluid through, it involves ultrasound, reverse flushing and special solvents
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Plenty of companies will squirt a magic solution through it for you. But why bother when £200 buys you a cheap replacement?
Is the cheap pattern worth fitting? They say that pattern cats are crap so are pattern DPFs any better? :-\
I really meant, was there anything off the shelf you could buy to sort it DIY?
Not that I know of. If you pay £200 for a cheap dpf and it lasts 3 years, I'd say that was ok.
Pattern DPFs seem thus far to be better than pattern cats, the cheaper cats have very little precious metal in them (unlike the OE which has lots.....but then its designed to last ten years and not two) which is where the issues arise, as you get an emissions failure after a few years.
Pattern DPFs tend to have a slightly higher back pressure, but at the end of the days its just a ceramic honeycomb with no overly fancy metals etc
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....
Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
Is it possible to do something with a DPF when it's off the car? :-\ :-\
Yes, it is possible to fully clean and de-ash a DPF, its been done for years on commercial vehicles :y
.........and its more than just squirting a fluid through, it involves ultrasound, reverse flushing and special solvents
I think Andy meant in his shed ;D
I already mentioned specialist cleaning companies.
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Make a bonfire chuck it in for an hour and it will be ok :y
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Make a bonfire chuck it in for an hour and it will be ok :y
Nope, the main issue as they mileage goes up is not soot, its ash.
The ash is a consequence of oil burn rather than diesel, hence one of the reasons DPF diesels have special oil, the ash goes nowhere during a heat cycle
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Yes, it is possible to fully clean and de-ash a DPF, its been done for years on commercial vehicles :y
.........and its more than just squirting a fluid through, it involves ultrasound, reverse flushing and special solvents
Sounds very environmentally friendly! ;D
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Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
The original DPF was so bad, the engine would barely run / idle, with the downpipe connected. A regeneration, as far as I know, requires the engine to be up to operating temperature, and, with the blocked DPF fitted, it wouldn't run well / long enough to achieve that.
With all that considered, combined with the knowledge it was chucking god knows what into the DPF from the faulty injector / melted piston, I'm still quite happy with my decision to write off the original DPF.
I have a new one coming tomorrow. £207 :y
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Sadly, the original DPF was probably ok and just needed a regen
The original DPF was so bad, the engine would barely run / idle, with the downpipe connected. A regeneration, as far as I know, requires the engine to be up to operating temperature, and, with the blocked DPF fitted, it wouldn't run well / long enough to achieve that.
With all that considered, combined with the knowledge it was previously chucking god knows what into the DPF from the faulty injector / melted piston, I'm still quite happy with my decision to write off the original DPF.
I have a new one coming tomorrow. £207 :y
Every time I look at the photos of the old pisiton and bore, I'm really chuffed at how well this runs :y
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oops, must have pressed the wrong button, only meant to edit. There's an echo in here :D
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oops, must have pressed the wrong button, only meant to edit. There's an echo in here :D
It can happen to anyone, James. What's a pisiton? ;D
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oops, must have pressed the wrong button, only meant to edit. There's an echo in here :D
It can happen to anyone, James. What's a pisiton? ;D
It's a type of kneeling ;)
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oops, must have pressed the wrong button, only meant to edit. There's an echo in here :D
It can happen to anyone, James. What's a pisiton? ;D
Not sure, but sounds like something you'd find in Amsterdam :D
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Tulips? ;D
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new front to back exhaust, incl DPF, is here now. Hopefully get it fitted tomorrow if I feel a bit better :y :y
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Hope it all comes off/goes on easily, James :y If you're not feeling too good, there's no hurry?
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oops, must have pressed the wrong button, only meant to edit. There's an echo in here :D
It can happen to anyone, James. What's a pisiton? ;D
A piston after ten pints of 'wifebeater' :)
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Don't dis the wifebeater, Mr Opti. A fine lager.
(though on draft it usually gives me a thumping headache, long before the hangover kicks in to give me another)
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A fine lager.
An oxymoron! ;)
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A fine lager.
An oxymoron! ;)
Bloody sandal wearing beardy treacle drinkers ;D
:y
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A fine lager.
An oxymoron! ;)
Bloody sandal wearing beardy treacle drinkers ;D
:y
I can picture Kevin in flip flops, but beardy? That's a stretch... ;D
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A fine lager.
An oxymoron! ;)
Bloody sandal wearing beardy treacle drinkers ;D
:y
I can picture Kevin in flip flops, but beardy? That's a stretch... ;D
I think it might suit him. :)
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A fine lager.
An oxymoron! ;)
Bloody sandal wearing beardy treacle drinkers ;D
:y
I can picture Kevin in flip flops, but beardy? That's a stretch... ;D
Come on, Mr Wood, show us your lockdown hippy look ;D
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Come on, Mr Wood, show us your lockdown hippy look ;D
Clean shaven here, I'm afraid, so unable to oblige. Someone has to maintain standards. ::)
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Come on, Mr Wood, show us your lockdown hippy look ;D
Clean shaven here, I'm afraid, so unable to oblige. Someone has to maintain standards. ::)
Kevin Wood, the responsible one?
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Come on, Mr Wood, show us your lockdown hippy look ;D
Clean shaven here, I'm afraid, so unable to oblige. Someone has to maintain standards. ::)
Kevin Wood, the responsible one?
Not really, I've give up ironing shirts. Not much point wearing them when there's hardly anyone else in the office. ;D
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Come on, Mr Wood, show us your lockdown hippy look ;D
Clean shaven here, I'm afraid, so unable to oblige. Someone has to maintain standards. ::)
Kevin Wood, the responsible one?
Not really, I've give up ironing shirts. Not much point wearing them when there's hardly anyone else in the office. ;D
Can you still get permanent press shirts? :-\ :)
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Whats an iron? A soldering iron?
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Whats an iron? A soldering iron?
don't worry about it Jamie ..... it's used for pink jobs ::)
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Whats an iron? A soldering iron?
don't worry about it Jamie ..... it's used for pink jobs ::)
And kept in the 10'x14' cupboard with the cooker, sink and parts washer ;)
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Whats an iron? A soldering iron?
don't worry about it Jamie ..... it's used for pink jobs ::)
And kept in the 10'x14' cupboard with the cooker, sink and parts washer ;)
Ah, the place where my tea materialises. Understood now.
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I thought that was the bath? ;D
Oh, wait that's cups of tea and biccies, as opposed to dinner ::)
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You're all very manly :-*
I know fellas who cook the dinner and iron who'd knock shite out of you just for fun :)
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I thought that was the bath? ;D
Oh, wait that's cups of tea and biccies, as opposed to dinner ::)
Hmmm, I've never had pie and chips in the bath. Maybe its something I should explore...
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who'd knock shite out of you just for fun :)
Because they are offended when I call them poofs or ladyboys?
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who'd knock shite out of you just for fun :)
Because they are offended when I call them poofs or ladyboys?
Never thought of that. Maybe they'd shag you after they'd knocked you out ;D
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who'd knock shite out of you just for fun :)
Because they are offended when I call them poofs or ladyboys?
Never thought of that. Maybe they'd shag you after they'd knocked you out ;D
For free? Or do I have to pay?
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I suppose that depends how vigorous you require your 'massage' to be... ::)
For free, then you can expect a short sharp headkicking, but for a more sophisticated approach such as housekeeping lessons or perhaps a cooking class, then yes, money will be required :D
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who'd knock shite out of you just for fun :)
Because they are offended when I call them poofs or ladyboys?
Never thought of that. Maybe they'd shag you after they'd knocked you out ;D
For free? Or do I have to pay?
They'd take your wallet too, so no need to pay ;D
Probably make their getaway in your jag ;D
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Jesus, leave the boy alone ;D
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James.....what's happening with the astra?