Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: laney101 on 06 July 2020, 19:30:40
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After a few attempts and various aricon places i still have yet to sort my air con working on omega
From another post ive gather the following list so things to check and do...
In order of common failure.
Condenser (replaced 18month ago)
Hp/LP valves, HP valve gums up needs cleaning with carb cleaner,,
LP fit a new core, (fitted new one 18months ago)
Pipe under battery box along chassis rail.
Connecting block were dryer is bolted to condenser, leaks.
Compressor seals, and seals were pipes join.(new seals and new drier fitted last week)
Pressure sensors, just stop working.
Expansion valve, up behind dash/glove box.
Evaporator,, very rare to go, whole dash out to replace.
Also check electric plug on bottom of compressor, for broken wire. (Checked and actually swapped for another compressor i knew was good and filled with pag oil before refit)
So as of now it has a new comprsssor new dowdy seals.
New rad
New drier new seals
New valve core
Vaccumed.... held
Regassed
Freezing cold was shocking cold.
48hrs later clutch not engaging.
What would people say is the way forward. Swap a sensor. Or try swapping pipework etc.
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Did the refill place put in any UV dye? If they did, and the leak is bad enough to dump all the gas in 48 hrs then it should be glowing like Chernobyl.
Just because the condenser was replaced 18 months ago doesn't mean its not faulty now. That would be my bet.
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You say 48hrs ago was working, now the clutch isn't engaging, possibly 3 faults.
1 no gas, check for leaks, start by checking LP/hp ports. Then every were for a leak.
2 check fuses, can't think which ones it it is, also check fuses for front fans too.
3 if it has to much gas it could be over pressure, and that will switch it off.
I will put this, you haven't pressed the ECO button,
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I am following this with interest, I have similar issue, I think. Have fitted new compressor, drier, condensor and pressure switch, gas filled and no leaks and it was working fine. Last week in the really hot weather it didn't seem as cold as it had been when first done 3-4 weeks ago. I need a long run to assess properly.
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No dye was used no...
So ill have to use sniffer to check to leaks.
Hmm ok so possible rad again...
No its not in eco haha although many have done it.
Fused checked all good...
I tapped the valves Hp and Lp sod all came out. So it has dumped a fair bot of gask somewhere.
Prpbs either pipes nackered. Rads nackered. Or maybe the valves are shot...
Investigation required.
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Me too, changed everything and now my low pressure hose is leaking through the valve I’ve fitted a few new ones but they still leak, must be the threads I guess😐
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No dye was used no...
So ill have to use sniffer to check to leaks.
Hmm ok so possible rad again...
No its not in eco haha although many have done it.
Fused checked all good...
I tapped the valves Hp and Lp sod all came out. So it has dumped a fair bot of gask somewhere.
Prpbs either pipes nackered. Rads nackered. Or maybe the valves are shot...
Investigation required.
To use a sniffer you'll have to gas it up. In which case put some UV dye in it at the same time.
However, if it's losing all the gas in 48 hrs its surprising that it passes the vac-down test. When I did mine I vac-ed it down and left it for 7 days. I then pressurised it to (IIRC) 3bar and left it for another week (you're supposed to use dry nitrogen ::) ). If it maintains vacuum for a week, and 3 bar pressure for a week then it's probably leak free, so vac it down again and refill with R134a - err I mean get someone who has the bit of paper with all the right ticks in the boxes to re-fill it for you ;D
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Finally have got a copy of TIS running on a virtual machine so we can see the circuit diagrams. The climate control is a pretty complex system, which we are now trying to figure out. Then we can hopefully find out which bits aren't working. Fingers crossed one of the spare parts from the Elite we're breaking may come in handy, or we can find a leak somewhere.
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Finally have got a copy of TIS running on a virtual machine so we can see the circuit diagrams. The climate control is a pretty complex system, which we are now trying to figure out. Then we can hopefully find out which bits aren't working. Fingers crossed one of the spare parts from the Elite we're breaking may come in handy, or we can find a leak somewhere.
With the help of a UV lamp and yellow glasses, there is evidence of a leak from the condensor where is joins the pipework, so the rad and coolant with have to come out and another new seal located and fitted.
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Finally have got a copy of TIS running on a virtual machine so we can see the circuit diagrams. The climate control is a pretty complex system, which we are now trying to figure out. Then we can hopefully find out which bits aren't working. Fingers crossed one of the spare parts from the Elite we're breaking may come in handy, or we can find a leak somewhere.
Has the breaker got a low pressure pipe that you will sell?
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Finally have got a copy of TIS running on a virtual machine so we can see the circuit diagrams. The climate control is a pretty complex system, which we are now trying to figure out. Then we can hopefully find out which bits aren't working. Fingers crossed one of the spare parts from the Elite we're breaking may come in handy, or we can find a leak somewhere.
Has the breaker got a low pressure pipe that you will sell?
Probably, if I don't need it myself and it's in one piece. Let me know which is the low pressure pipe, is it the one that goes under the battery tray on the nearside chassis rail?
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No it’s the one with the silver bulge in and a tyre valve you can tell it’s a shrader valve type, as the high pressure hose has a valve which has a nut fitting on it👍
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No it’s the one with the silver bulge in and a tyre valve you can tell it’s a shrader valve type, as the high pressure hose has a valve which has a nut fitting on it👍
OK, again, assuming I don't need it as a spare for my red MV6 to get the A/C working and it holds pressure, then yes I'll probably sell it. It might be September before we get all the pipes out...
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Right good progress... i had no access to dye only sniffer and had no joys with it..
Air con man out to hose filled with dye and nitrogen or something... next day got under car dye along passenger chassis rail... from engine it bay it seems the pipe along chassis rail has gone.
Lukily is a small pipe and rest seem ok so going to swap that section of pipe out and see how we go
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That’s a fuc£er to get to, had to do mine😟
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Easier with the headlight, radiator pack, top hose, power steering reservoir battery and abs block out of the way :y
But not much ;D
There's also wiring in there, so be careful if you cut it out.
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All sorted was a bit but sorted been lovely and cold for nearly two weeks now. Tempted to send old pipe of to specialist and have remade for future.
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All sorted was a bit but sorted been lovely and cold for nearly two weeks now. Tempted to send old pipe of to specialist and have remade for future.
Glad you got it fixed. We're wrestling with a similar problem right now. Definitely easier to get that pipe out without everything in the engine bay out of the way, including the engine. You did very well to change the whole pipe. I'm hoping it's just the pitted o-ring sealing face that can be fixed on mine with new condensor and Slightly oversized O-rings. EPC O-ring dimensions nothing like the same as the original rings we removed from parts donor, which has added to the headache.