Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: Evo500omega on 10 September 2020, 17:42:35
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Hello dear friends
this is the 3rd time I’ve tried to remove the gearbox from my Omega A 3000 24v,
but I can't reach the screws at the top of the gearbox :'( :'(
Any topics or suggestions about?
Thanks guys: D
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When Daz did mine some years ago now he released the rear support bracket allowing the propshaft end to be lowered on a transmission jack which allowed sight of the bolts.
He then used a cordless impact wrench with a selection of wobble bars and removed them that way.
Suspect its a tad harder without car being in the air but others have certainly done it and sure they wil advise accord
Remember though it is rather heavy :o
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I used to jack up the front of the engine (tilting it) , on 2 litre/4 cylinder carlton's (omega A) and use multiple socket extensions as previously stated to do the clutch ,gearbox off
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As suggested, add all your extensions together, stand back and have another go :y
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Or remove the plenum and some other gubbins and undo them from in the engine bay using a spanner.
Its been a few years but Im pretty sure thats how I used to remove them.
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Or remove the plenum and some other gubbins and undo them from in the engine bay using a spanner.
Its been a few years but Im pretty sure thats how I used to remove them.
If there's room to, then that's got to be the easiest option :y
Don’t get that luxury on the Omega B 6 pots :D
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Ah, I didnt suss it was a straight 6. In that case, I have no idea. :)
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As above, if you remove the rear gearbox mount and disconnect the prop, you can lower the back of the engine to give better access. I actually used to use spanner and the gynaecologist approach
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Could be worse, there's something like 20 fixings holding the gearbox to an XK, and some of them are nuts and bolts. Access is very poor for many of them. It's a tedious job bolting them together on the floor, but in the car........
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Done it a couple of times, as advised, chain of extensions works OK.
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Thanks Mates!!! many thanks!!!!
I ll try again!!! will be a long weekend ;D :D 8)
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Remove the engine bay radiator cowl, and the viscous fan. Probably have to remove the radiator top hose too.
Not sure how on the C30SE (only done the LC C36GET/S6-40) , but you'll have to either disconnect the gear lever from the gearbox, or the gear lever from the transmission tunnel somehow.
Exhaust off, undo prop-shaft to gearbox coupling (4/6 allen headed bolts?). Then support the rear of the gearbox on a trolley jack and unbolt the gearbox rear support (4 bolts IIRC). Once the rear support is off, slowly lower the rear of the gearbox. The engine will pivot on the engine mounts as the gearbox drops. Watch out for the wiring - speedo drive and reversing lights. Unplug them as they become accessible. You'll also have to remove the clutch slave. I'd assume two bolts same as the LC, but as I say never done a C30SE.
The reason for undoing the viscous fan and removing the fan cowl will become obvious - as the engine pivots you don't want the cowl to break or the fan to impact the radiator.
Once the rear of the gearbox is as low as it'll go, jam a piece of wood between the bottom of the oil pump cover and the antiroll bar to 'lock' the engine in place.
Then finally as others have said using a selection of extensions and wobble joints undo the bell housing from the back of the block. Easier on the LC because the gearbox comes off the bell housing first, but not on the AR25/35/MT28. You'll just have to work out what works.
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Thanks mate! ;D :D