Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Car Chat => Topic started by: holcomser on 17 February 2021, 17:32:35
-
Just joined so hello everyone.
Looking for a lot of advice as the last Vauxhall I had was a 2.0 Auto Cavalier in 2006 and wished I had never sold it but that's life.
Anyway I am looking to buy an Omega Automatic saloon and are trying to seek advice on what model, engine size, year, yes or no mileage, things to look for really any owner advice in general.
I'm 67 years old and would like a bit of luxury to drive around in and to enjoy.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Chris
-
V6 of some description if you want an auto. Preferrably the older 2.5 or 3l, rather than the newer, gutless, thirsty 2.6/3.2 ones.
Your trouble will be finding a clean one now, as GM used 1980s Ford anticorrosion on them ;D.
Rust aside, the v6 suffer oil leaks from the cam cover gaskets, especially when fitted by garages and dealers. All models suffer front suspension sagging and bush failures.
Are you prepared to DIY on it?
-
Hi
What The Boy says but this might be useful too
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90482.0
-
If you want luxury, look at the trim levels too. It might be an idea to find the minimum trim level that has the toys you really want. Elite/CDX are amongst the top trim levels.
With these cars, as suggested, rust is the killer. I will also add, (and I'm not trying to put you off) you can pretty much expect any Omega you buy will need work, budget for this.
-
If you want luxury, look at the trim levels too. It might be an idea to find the minimum trim level that has the toys you really want. Elite/CDX are amongst the top trim levels.
With these cars, as suggested, rust is the killer. I will also add, (and I'm not trying to put you off) you can pretty much expect any Omega you buy will need work, budget for this.
Very true :y
My 3,2 Elite has cost £17,951 over 8 years now to buy then maintain to the best levels possible. But it is worth it for the luxury of what the Omega at this level is. This year again passed the MOT with flying colours, with no advisories and the Main Vx dealer garage staff who I have done business with for almost 20 years often comment on the great condition of my, still low mileage, almost last to be built, 2003 Omega.
With some DIY attention that I am capable of, I keep her going and 'control' any rust on the chassis as much as possible, so far keeping it at bay. You may think £18k is a lot to spend overall on an old car, but try and buy an equivalent modern type care, with all the extras you need, and keep that running over 8 years for less. Indeed the interest on buying the new car initially, that you will quickly lose on depreciation, will add a sizable chunk to your bill before you start!
So, as said, if you want one of these now rare cars be prepared to pay out to keep it going in the best condition possible. They are NOT a car to skimp on when it come to maintenance - they will quickly deteriorate and fail. But a little and often care / expense makes all the difference.
All the best with your hunt :y :y
-
Got to agree with Lizzie find a good one and be prepared to spend on it to keep it up to scratch, I sold mine a few years back & purchased a V8 Merc to replace it looking back I should have kept the Omega mine was a 2.6 CDX manual , very comfortable and up to 32 mpg on a run , good luck with your search hope you find a good one.
-
My 3,2 Elite has cost £17,951 over 8 years now to buy then maintain to the best levels possible.
Wow. Just wow. I think and I accept I could be wrong, but I think you've spent more on your Omega than I have on every car I've owned, including maintenance for the last 25+ years. It's a close call if I could include the insurance I've paid in that time as well.
Credit to you for keeping a car you want running. But when it's put like one lump sum, it seems an awful lot.
EDIT - No I couldn't get the insurance in that as well.
-
If you didn't spend all your hard earned on the Omega, you'd only go and squander it on food and rent. :D
-
A big thank you to all you lovely people who have replied with your advice. I am not really in to car diy, home diy no problem so it would be garage all the way.
It looks like its try and get the best I can and take it from there really. Will start looking round and let you all know if I have any luck.
Thanks again.
-
If you aren't into getting your hands dirty, the Omega may not be the best choice :-\
-
A big thank you to all you lovely people who have replied with your advice. I am not really in to car diy, home diy no problem so it would be garage all the way.
It looks like its try and get the best I can and take it from there really. Will start looking round and let you all know if I have any luck.
Thanks again.
You're making a mistake. If you are unwilling/unable to perform maintenance tasks, and rely on a garage to do the work for you, it will cost you an arm and a leg to keep it running. That's without factoring in the cost of bringing it up to a decent level when you first buy it.
-
I have spent close to £3000 in mine to get it how I want it over the last 4 years. That was doing all the work myself.
Dread to think how much garage labour costs would have been on top of that.
-
A big thank you to all you lovely people who have replied with your advice. I am not really in to car diy, home diy no problem so it would be garage all the way.
It looks like its try and get the best I can and take it from there really. Will start looking round and let you all know if I have any luck.
Thanks again.
You're making a mistake. If you are unwilling/unable to perform maintenance tasks, and rely on a garage to do the work for you, it will cost you an arm and a leg to keep it running. That's without factoring in the cost of bringing it up to a decent level when you first buy it.
The other problem is that a good car is unlikely to be too rotten, but could easily need all the same, expensive work that a much cheaper one would. You could spend close to £1000 for the parts to make a reliable car that drives properly.
-
Bought mine 7 years ago for 1k from back street dealer in Luton who didnt really know what it was tbh.It was in a poor state mechanically but body work was straight and MOT history read well only having 2 former owners and only failures on tyres and bulbs.
Got it home and spent as much time as I could spare going from back to front replacing brakes/suspension/tyres ,also lots of silly little broken bits on the inside costing around 1.5k.
Have now driven it for the past 6 years and done over 130k miles with only the usual wear out bits like brakes/tyres etc....recon have spent another 3k over that time which would of spent on any car I imagine as less than £500 a year with the high mileage I cover.
I can say without doudt its the best car I have ever owned and still get comments from people about how few of them are now on the road and how well its cared for and looks which is some thing for a 18 year old car.
If you dont intend to do alot of the service work yourself you would be wise seeking a different car as they need a good knowledge which sadly few garages now have and will just see it as a cash cow
-
Some of the latter posts have been a good attempt in deterring you from even buying one! Having previously owned a Cavalier, they rust in the similar areas - rear wheel arches, sills, and the Omega rusts on the front chassis members / rails which are partially visible from under the front wheel arches.
Having said that, the aged old advice is the same, look at as many as you can (although there won't be that many around), go for the best spec you can, and if you aren't particularly mechanically minded, take some one with you who is), read all the write ups you can on here and the internet, and when you find the right car, it will jump out at you.
2.0 and 2.2 engines are underpowered in my opinion. I have owned 2.6's, 3.0's and 3.2's V6 Omegas - they all are great to drive, the V6 sounds well, the 2.6 does perform well, but personally speaking, I prefer my 3.2's over the 3.0, both of which have the edge over the 2.6. If it is toys you are after, then the later 3.2 Elite is the King, wheras GLS and CD models have quite low spec levels.
Just do you homework, don't buy the first one you see (get the general flavour of the Omega with the first one you look at - unless it's a gem of course!). Be prepared to pay over the odds for a good example with plenty of decent history.
I've been involved with 'classic' cars for over 36 years - decent Omegas are becoming less and less, but that applies to most other cars of so called 'classic' status. One will eventually turn up if you aren't in a rush....there are good ones out there that will, at some point, come up for sale, as generally their owners are of (cough!) more senior years.....
No doubt there will be other ''helpful' advice to come.....
This a a brief but worthy read...
https://not2grand.co.uk/not-2-grand-cars/the-vauxhall-omega/
-
A big thank you to all you lovely people who have replied with your advice. I am not really in to car diy, home diy no problem so it would be garage all the way.
It looks like its try and get the best I can and take it from there really. Will start looking round and let you all know if I have any luck.
Thanks again.
You're making a mistake. If you are unwilling/unable to perform maintenance tasks, and rely on a garage to do the work for you, it will cost you an arm and a leg to keep it running. That's without factoring in the cost of bringing it up to a decent level when you first buy it.
The other problem is that a good car is unlikely to be too rotten, but could easily need all the same, expensive work that a much cheaper one would. You could spend close to £1000 for the parts to make a reliable car that drives properly.
This.
Regardless of engine or trim level.
-
You are the same age as me don't know your financial circumstances & don't want to know but all I can say is if you're fortunate to have a good amount of cash at your disposal go for it have whatever you want, plenty of decent mechanics are about I've found them for my Omega Merc & Range Rover life is not a rehearsal , look forward to seeing the pics when you find your dream ride.
-
All of the above notwithstanding. I love my Omega. I drove it 50 miles this afternoon (which doesnt happen that often) and there arent many cars I would rather be driving. Ive invested a lot of time, effort, and a fair bit of money into it, and it was well worth it to me.
It leaves me with a problem now. Swmbo has often mentioned that its difficult to justify running two cars, and Ive just bought a third.
It would be common sense to get rid of the Omega, but I dont think I can face it tbh. :(
What to do. ::) ;D
-
I had my 2.5CDX for 11 years and before that I'd never kept a car much more than a year or two. ::)
I've now been an Ex-Omega Owner for about 5 years and I still miss it! :(
-
I miss mine, but not enough to want to go through the ballache and expense of getting another one sorted out.
-
I had my 2.5CDX for 11 years and before that I'd never kept a car much more than a year or two. ::)
I've now been an Ex-Omega Owner for about 5 years and I still miss it! :(
+1, wrecked mine over two years ago. :'( TVV@T ::)
-
Thats the thing. I could talk myself into getting rid of mine, but I know I would miss it for the rest of my days.
I already have a short list of cars I wish I still had and I know this one would be another one of those.
Add that to the small amount of money I would get for it means I should probably keep it.
Worst comes to the worst I might put the Boxster on the road for the summer months and the Omega the winter months.
Not ideal, but would help justify keeping it.
On the other hand, I havent even driven the Boxster yet, so I might find it a disappointment and move that on instead. :-\
-
My 3,2 Elite has cost £17,951 over 8 years now to buy then maintain to the best levels possible.
Wow. Just wow. I think and I accept I could be wrong, but I think you've spent more on your Omega than I have on every car I've owned, including maintenance for the last 25+ years. It's a close call if I could include the insurance I've paid in that time as well.
Credit to you for keeping a car you want running. But when it's put like one lump sum, it seems an awful lot.
EDIT - No I couldn't get the insurance in that as well.
I guess much of that cost us because main dealer prices ?
I bought my 3.2 MV6 for not much money in Sept 2016.
I've taken it from 163k to 230k and spent probably £2k on it including tyres. Mixture of DIY and Back street repaired. Mixture of trade club Vauxhall parts and eBay specials.
It has only let me down.twice. once due to poor maintenance. (Solid discs got fitted on the back and somebtimeblater a piston came out too far and pissed brake Fluid all.over the road) once due to a leaking radiator.
My biggest expense has been fuel. If I had bought any Deisel car, I'd have been less.poor than I the am.now. I reckon £6k could have been saved. But then my previous diesel cost £5k in depreciatelion over 4 years so it's fine.
-
V6 of some description if you want an auto. Preferrably the older 2.5 or 3l, rather than the newer, gutless, thirsty 2.6/3.2 ones.
.............
Ooooh, that hurt. :P ;D Can't say I ever remember any 3.0's coming past me in my 3.2. :-\ ;D
-
Its all relative. The 3.0 was the best of the bunch, but not by much. Realistically, its far from easy to find a nice 3.2 engined car anymore, so a nice 3.0 engined car would be almost impossible.
Btw, every 6 cylinder engined Vauxhall Ive owned has averaged 23 - 24 mpg.
That includes a Viceroy, 24v Senator and several Omegas from 2.5 - 3.2.
-
My 3,2 Elite has cost £17,951 over 8 years now to buy then maintain to the best levels possible.
Wow. Just wow. I think and I accept I could be wrong, but I think you've spent more on your Omega than I have on every car I've owned, including maintenance for the last 25+ years. It's a close call if I could include the insurance I've paid in that time as well.
Credit to you for keeping a car you want running. But when it's put like one lump sum, it seems an awful lot.
EDIT - No I couldn't get the insurance in that as well.
I guess much of that cost us because main dealer prices ?
I bought my 3.2 MV6 for not much money in Sept 2016.
I've taken it from 163k to 230k and spent probably £2k on it including tyres. Mixture of DIY and Back street repaired. Mixture of trade club Vauxhall parts and eBay specials.
It has only let me down.twice. once due to poor maintenance. (Solid discs got fitted on the back and somebtimeblater a piston came out too far and pissed brake Fluid all.over the road) once due to a leaking radiator.
My biggest expense has been fuel. If I had bought any Deisel car, I'd have been less.poor than I the am.now. I reckon £6k could have been saved. But then my previous diesel cost £5k in depreciatelion over 4 years so it's fine.
Yes and no. I purchased the 54k mileage, excellent condition, full service history, late build, for £4,000 from a dealer who specialised in low mileage, top of the range cars. It was worth every penny compared to the high mileage, poor service history Omega's I was seeing when I wanted to upgrade from my then 3.0 Elite Omega. From then on I have given her the best option I can always having genuine parts fitted when either I or my regular main Vx dealer worked on her at trade prices. For tyres I use a very trustworthy (proved to be by me!) regional garage outfit, but for everything else it is Vx who do the work, usually. However when I last required a cam belt change and the fitting of, Vx, front wishbones, I went with a recommendation on the OOF for SOS Garage Services, owned by Serek. His service is so good, with great knowledge of Omega's, excellent work done, for a very reasonable price, and a very friendly customer service, that I will be driving the fair distance for me for him to undertake future large scale works as required. I also had to have a local bodywork specialist , Lloyd, undertake post accident damage work on her in 2017, the cost included in my total expenditure outlay, who rebuilt part of the front end and resprayed all to make it like new.
So, with a combination of me, the main dealer, the tyre outfit and Serek, undertaking I will keep my beast going as long as possible. Llyod I have penciled in to restore (for £1,000 - £1,500) the rear end when any rust around the wheel arches becomes a problem.
All in all this Omega is the one that I want to keep running for as long as possible because she is worth it in every respect. Currently with 80,800 on the clock she is still a good example, and one of the last. As I have said I am quite happy with how much I have spent over the 8 year time period every time I get in her, she starts, and then gives me a great bit of motoring which, once the lock down is out of the way, will again be more extensive! ;) ;)
As others have said though in answer to the OP, you must select the best Omega example you can, with the lowest mileage, the best service history, then be prepared for the regular maintenance costs - there are no cheap, just make do, options on that - with great input when required, beyond your must do DIY, from reliable, proved to be, professional outfits, including taking advice from the OOF experts, and never be afraid of some big bills that keep your Omega in first class running order. ;)
-
Mileage isn't an indication of maintenance, especially lower.
There's about ten things that every Omega will require between 80-120k miles. Buying one below that window or just above it is setting yourself up for a lot of expense in fairly short order. So budget accordingly.
-
Low mileage doesn't help the age related problems, like seals degrading. Then there's actual use; a 20 year old car with under 100k miles hasn't had much use, so it's spent lots of time standing. And that causes its own problems, especially on complicated cars that are already fussy to maintain. Old, low mileage cars have often had normal maintenance delayed because it's only done 1500 miles since the last time you looked at it.
If you want a toy, or are prepared to quickly do all the jobs we know will be necessary then none of this matters.
But anyone expecting to have a daily driver from the moment they buy it needs to looking at cars that are already in daily use. I would rather buy Amba's high mileage Omega than Lizzie's much lower one for that very reason.
-
V6 of some description if you want an auto. Preferrably the older 2.5 or 3l, rather than the newer, gutless, thirsty 2.6/3.2 ones.
.............
Ooooh, that hurt. :P ;D Can't say I ever remember any 3.0's coming past me in my 3.2. :-\ ;D
I think I did on the way back from Billing once? Just when you'd just had your first patronisation course.
Or was I in my 3.2?
-
I miss mine, but not enough to want to go through the ballache and expense of getting another one sorted out.
I'm the same.
And it will still be a twenty year old car that will suffer body problems.
I would be looking for a V70 if I was actively looking for a replacement. An offered Saab or Rover 75 estate would also be tempting
-
V6 of some description if you want an auto. Preferrably the older 2.5 or 3l, rather than the newer, gutless, thirsty 2.6/3.2 ones.
.............
Ooooh, that hurt. :P ;D Can't say I ever remember any 3.0's coming past me in my 3.2. :-\ ;D
I think I did on the way back from Billing once? Just when you'd just had your first patronisation course.
Or was I in my 3.2?
Must have been the Chav... All that plastic obviously adds an extra zillion horsepower ::)
-
I wonder if the OP has been put off buying an Omega yet? ;D
-
I wonder if the OP has been put off buying an Omega yet? ;D
;D
Whilst it might look that way, it saves them trying to sell it after five minutes because they haven't researched it properly.
-
To be honest, most of the comments here (except the engine sizes) would apply to any 20 year old car you were thinking of buying.
-
Perhaps, the suspension is probably the biggest immediate issue, as the rear shocks are about the only part you can replace without requiring a full set up. The idea of changing anything else is an instant £80+ for a proper alignment, and that's assuming that everything else is ok and the rear track rods free off without bending.
Sure you can change it all one part at a time, but get it wrong and you'll see 1,000 miles from the front tyres, and that gets really old, really quickly.
And that's before the normal maintenance stuff like cam cover leaks and breather cleaning.
That's not to say the Omega is a bad car, far from it... Just that you need to have your eyes open when you buy one 'because it's cheaper than a 5 Series/E Class ;)
-
Low mileage doesn't help the age related problems, like seals degrading. Then there's actual use; a 20 year old car with under 100k miles hasn't had much use, so it's spent lots of time standing. And that causes its own problems, especially on complicated cars that are already fussy to maintain. Old, low mileage cars have often had normal maintenance delayed because it's only done 1500 miles since the last time you looked at it.
If you want a toy, or are prepared to quickly do all the jobs we know will be necessary then none of this matters.
But anyone expecting to have a daily driver from the moment they buy it needs to looking at cars that are already in daily use. I would rather buy Amba's high mileage Omega than Lizzie's much lower one for that very reason.
My Omega is in daily use. But, I know what you mean: high mileage cars that are started before doing longish journey's every day have the oil circulated around a hot engine for long periods, the exhaust is brought to, and maintained for a long time, at a high temperature, so any harmful moisture is constantly dissipated.
So, yes, a high mileage car can actually last longer. However, for 25 years I had brand new fully expensed company cars that I regularly drove 100K+ miles in two years, one even going to 108k in one year. As usual those vehicles, fully maintained, were changed after two years with another brand new vehicle. The company did that because after that level of mileage the maintenance costs would rise with parts wearing out, let alone an MOT being required, and the trade in value of the car would depreciate quickly after the two year period, on a vehicle with costs escalating. Now those cars were of an age where after that level of mileage the engines, especially on my Ford Cortina's, would show severe signs of wear, even with great maintenance. It again was good business sense to replace.
So, in the case of high mileage cars I would argue that, along with wear and tear on the bodywork, can be a greater risk than (some) low mileage cars like mine that was / is maintained to a high standard and kept overnight in a garage. So, recognising you mention Nick the "under 100k miles" rule, in fact you can reverse that to saying "over 100k" can mean you face ever greater bills (like on my company cars when then in private ownership), and over 150k they can get extortionate. Like my 150k Senator I had in private ownership, it needed a new fuel tank due to rusting, the gear box requiring repairs, new oil cooler and pipes, and then severe (near terminal) rusting around the rear wheel arches, which made me trade it in for my first privately owned Omega 3.0 Elite. Therefore I calculate that with my current 80k mileage Omega, with the correct maintenance being undertaken, can reasonably be expected to last to the 125-150k mileage before costs become extortionate.
Right or wrong, it should get me at least 10 years future Omega driving before I will probably give up motoring, or at least been able to obtain a non-fossil fuel car (with a Government grant! ::) ::) ::) ;D ;D ;)) that drives me!! ;D ;D ;)
For me that all seems good, but yes if I was going to buy another Omega now, IF I could find one 8 years down the line and knowing I would never again have it at 54k miles on the clock, look at what parts had been replaced, the level of professional or semi-professional servicing, before looking at the mileage. ;)
-
Mine is just coming up to 190k on the clock. All suspension and most of the brakes have been replaced. Serviced very regularly and cambelt has only done a few hundred miles.
I would happily drive it anywhere and if I keep it, I wouldnt be surprised if it outlasts me.
Its taken a lot of work and a fair bit of money to get it there though. I think you need to be a real enthusiast to make one nice and keep it that way.
Not many people are going to have that commitment for an old Vauxhall, getting on for 20 years old.
In fact, thinking about it, I must be fickin mad. ;D
-
Trust me Albs...your not alone there and with the replacement speedo head added to the mileage mine is now on 238k and still in daily use,some days doing 120+ miles all of which I thoroughly enjoy driving ....just not the fuel but that is atleast tax deductable ;D
-
V6 of some description if you want an auto. Preferrably the older 2.5 or 3l, rather than the newer, gutless, thirsty 2.6/3.2 ones.
.............
Ooooh, that hurt. :P ;D Can't say I ever remember any 3.0's coming past me in my 3.2. :-\ ;D
I think I did on the way back from Billing once? Just when you'd just had your first patronisation course.
Or was I in my 3.2?
You were in TBE. :y Oh, and turning off on a slip road exit as I was slowing down for heavy traffic doesn't constitute an overtake. ::) ;D
Just when you'd just had your first patronisation course.
My speed awareness course was the following day. ;D :-[
Back on topic ::) I loved that car and still miss it. I must have liked it as I kept it for seventeen years, even though I had new cars sat on the drive at the same time. :y
Just to add, my old 3.2 is still going strong and is still tidy. :y
-
Trust me Albs...your not alone there and with the replacement speedo head added to the mileage mine is now on 238k and still in daily use,some days doing 120+ miles all of which I thoroughly enjoy driving ....just not the fuel but that is atleast tax deductable ;D
I wish my fuel was tax deductable. It would allow me to take great pleasure in shoving the hateful little pile if French plastic and cardboard over the nearest cliff ,instead of lying under it trying to remove everything to get the turbo off.
It must have been assembled by educationally subnormal midgets ffs. >:(
Rain has now stopped play and Im on days over the weekend, so its going to be one of those start / stop jobs that drags on and on. ::)
I was supposed to be tidying up my new toy, getting it ready to go on the road next month. :(
Still, Waitrose have just delivered the nosh, with a complimentary copy of the Torygraph, so every cloud....... ;D
-
Albs.....we seemed to both be afflicted with the perils of " La France"
SWTSMBO has also has a 1.2TCE clit almost from new on an 58 plate.To be fair it has been quite a good car and does go like a rocket when you get the turbo spinning up ,although I get shouted at for driving it too fast on the rare occasions I drive it.
It has only have usual service items during its life with the most annoying thing being the heater resistor making the interior fan only run on speeds 1 or 4 ,which a rewiring and new resistor cured.Other than that its been pretty bomb proof....so must of been built before lunch on either a Monday or Tuesday ;D
All my car usage is tax deductable hence why I have never really worried too much about the Omegas costs
-
This one hasnt been bad to be fair, until the turbo shit itself the other day. Its half way down the back of the engine, so you can imagine what its like trying to get to it, to get it off. ::)
-
Mine is just coming up to 190k on the clock. All suspension and most of the brakes have been replaced. Serviced very regularly and cambelt has only done a few hundred miles.
I would happily drive it anywhere and if I keep it, I wouldnt be surprised if it outlasts me.
Its taken a lot of work and a fair bit of money to get it there though. I think you need to be a real enthusiast to make one nice and keep it that way.
Not many people are going to have that commitment for an old Vauxhall, getting on for 20 years old.
In fact, thinking about it, I must be fickin mad. ;D
That makes two of us! ;D ;D ;D ;)
-
Can't do much else with money at the moment so keep spending on the old Vauxhalls ,saw an ad today for a VW Golf £36,000 now that really is a waste of money in my opinion.
-
Can't do much else with money at the moment so keep spending on the old Vauxhalls ,saw an ad today for a VW Golf £36,000 now that really is a waste of money in my opinion.
You can actually spend over £43K on a Vauxhall Grandland.
-
If your certifiably insane that is. :o
-
If your certifiably insane that is. :o
Personally, I think a lot of new, nothing special cars are way overpriced.
-
If your certifiably insane that is. :o
Personally, I think a lot of new, nothing special cars are way overpriced.
.
Me too , although wifey is budgeting £65,000 for a motorhome once the two properties she has been left are sold.
-
That might get you a poorly assembled Peugeot Boxer...
-
That might get you a poorly assembled Peugeot Boxer...
.
Wouldn't buy Pug or Fiat .
-
Short wheelbase VW with a pop up roof?
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you're wife is determined, Mick, persuade her not to set a budget. Have a look at what it is that she would really like, then ask the price. If she can afford it, and thinks the price is not too outrageous for what she'd get, then go for it. No use making compromises, you end up regretting not buying what you really wanted.
-
Perhaps, the suspension is probably the biggest immediate issue, as the rear shocks are about the only part you can replace without requiring a full set up. The idea of changing anything else is an instant £80+ for a proper alignment, and that's assuming that everything else is ok and the rear track rods free off without bending.
Sure you can change it all one part at a time, but get it wrong and you'll see 1,000 miles from the front tyres, and that gets really old, really quickly.
And that's before the normal maintenance stuff like cam cover leaks and breather cleaning.
That's not to say the Omega is a bad car, far from it... Just that you need to have your eyes open when you buy one 'because it's cheaper than a 5 Series/E Class ;)
All the above I agree with, anyone who's had an Omega will be familiar with the above, the problem now is that on top of all that lot you have the age problems with various sealants now degrading and failing on the bodyshell, rust appearing in all the wrong structural places and parts availability (at least for decent quality parts) drying up.
It's still a great car in my opinion, but time is moving on and something more fuel efficient and reliable is required as a daily car. ::)
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you're wife is determined, Mick, persuade her not to set a budget. Have a look at what it is that she would really like, then ask the price. If she can afford it, and thinks the price is not too outrageous for what she'd get, then go for it. No use making compromises, you end up regretting not buying what you really wanted.
.
Good advice Steve, we will have a real good look before deciding price won't be a problem with the amount she should get , won't believe it though till we get the funds from the solicitor still find it difficult to comprehend totally unexpected windfall.
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
.
We have discussed that already quite fancy a small Toyota as a runabout, but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
.
We have discussed that already quite fancy a small Toyota as a runabout, but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Thing is with a camper van/small car set up is that you have to tax and insure two extra vehicles. ;)
I'd go for a nice big twin axle pikey wagon, and tell SWMBO that you need to upgrade the Range Rover to tow it! ::)
A nice full fat 5.0V8 L405 should do the trick Mick! :y ;D
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
.
We have discussed that already quite fancy a small Toyota as a runabout, but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Thing is with a camper van/small car set up is that you have to tax and insure two extra vehicles. ;)
I'd go for a nice big twin axle pikey wagon, and tell SWMBO that you need to upgrade the Range Rover to tow it! ::)
A nice full fat 5.0V8 L405 should do the trick Mick! :y ;D
.
Got to admit that I love our twin axle Eldiss & looks a treat on the Range Rover & I would like to swap it for a new one personally I think a motorhome might be a bit cramped after the space we have but she wants to have a look so I'll humour her, like the idea of a 5.0 RR 😁
-
Just joined so hello everyone.
Looking for a lot of advice as the last Vauxhall I had was a 2.0 Auto Cavalier in 2006 and wished I had never sold it but that's life.
Anyway I am looking to buy an Omega Automatic saloon and are trying to seek advice on what model, engine size, year, yes or no mileage, things to look for really any owner advice in general.
I'm 67 years old and would like a bit of luxury to drive around in and to enjoy.
Many thanks in anticipation.
Chris
Getting back on topic.......
Chris only asked for a bit of informed advice about buying an Omega and I think a good few have done a pretty good job of putting him right off! - probably not wholly intentional, but nevertheless had a good try!
I have owned several Omegas since 2004 and currently own 3 Elites - whilst I do 99% of the work on them myself, owning one isn't quite as much doom and gloom as has been portrayed. Yes, old cars need more tlc than your moden cars (say upto 3 years old that have usually only had one service), but a certain degree of work other than general servicing is likely with the majority of even 7 year old plus cars, irrespective of make. Some Omega parts are becoming harder to find, but not impossible - again the Omega isn't on its own in this respect....
If you are fortunate to find a respectable Omega, I would definitely recommend going for it - you won't regret it irrespective of what has been said by a few.....
You will get a lot of useful advice on here, as long as you ignore the minority, and search the minefield of useful information available here.
Most people are friendly - honest!
-
Getting back on topic.......
Chris only asked for a bit of informed advice about buying an Omega and I think a good few have done a pretty good job of putting him right off! - probably not wholly intentional, but nevertheless had a good try!
I have owned several Omegas since 2004 and currently own 3 Elites - whilst I do 99% of the work on them myself, owning one isn't quite as much doom and gloom as has been portrayed. Yes, old cars need more tlc than your moden cars (say upto 3 years old that have usually only had one service), but a certain degree of work other than general servicing is likely with the majority of even 7 year old plus cars, irrespective of make. Some Omega parts are becoming harder to find, but not impossible - again the Omega isn't on its own in this respect....
If you are fortunate to find a respectable Omega, I would definitely recommend going for it - you won't regret it irrespective of what has been said by a few.....
You will get a lot of useful advice on here, as long as you ignore the minority, and search the minefield of useful information available here.
Most people are friendly - honest!
My old e39 BMW had a stainless steel exhaust from factory, had far more layers of paint, the interior coating on buttons didn't fall off because it was touched.
Anyone suggesting a 20yr old Vx Omega as a good purchase needs to give their head a wobble.
Yes, fantastic cars of the time, but here and now, nahhh.
-
...., but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Mine (Coachman) was exactly half that ..... obviously second hand but it was obvious that it had been rarely used
-
fantastic cars of the time yes definately and still true to this day in my opinion.
i have been on a few car forums over the years and they are poulated generally by people who are actual enthusiasts of that particular car. lots of people here seem to actually dislike omegas and try to put people off them. after working and restoring many different vehicles over the past 40 years i can honesly say that the omega is a well designed and thought out car. yes there are a few design niggles that could have been different but nothing major really.not many (if any) modern stuff comes close nowadays in terms of comfort because people dont seem to want that now.more into gadgets or speed or fashion !
dont get me started on that !
yes it will be hard to find a very good one but there are still a fair few out there that can be purchased as a good base and improved on. theyre not a particularly complicated car and dont realy have any major rust issues that would render them unrepairable. this is a grey area with some people yes but beleive me when youve worked on 60's and 70's stuff which can rust in front of your eyes the omega pales in comparison.its a shame that the op cannot do his own work because he will have to use a garage he trusts and who knows what they are doing and that is harder than it sounds as we all know . shouldnt be realy but it is.
all the cars out there for sale will be in different stages of repair/ maintenance/ etc etc so its not a given that every car will 100% need a full suspension rebuild and full alignment . theres nothing complicated about omega suspension or any magic involved.
sure it will need front bushes now and again and rocker cover gaskets and but theyre not expensive and easy enough to do .
good ones keep popping up on ebay now and again but im sticking with mine until maybee the perfect one owner very low mileage one comes up . they will be hidden somewhere!
a friend of mine recently found a mk1 escort with 6000 miles on .and a few years back we found a viva with 27000 and a mk1 cav with 29000. all excellent cars . bodywork and interior like new . mechanicals can be repaired but you cant recreate low mileage originality
anyway.back on topic. hope the op looks at a few omegas ( if hes not been put off !) and after a proper examination should find a good example .
-
There will be people who agree with the following because it matches their experience, and there will be people who disagree with every word because... (these are the same people who will swear blind that it never rains in the Wales because the one day they visited it was sunny).
Having owned 8 Omegas and maintained them myself, all face lift, both saloon and estate, manual and auto, 2.0/2.2/2.6/3.2 and near as damnit 250,000 miles combined, not to mention countless members cars that I have worked on, here's my experience based list of common issues that will affect any Omega, especially between 80-120k miles and beyond depending on maintenance approach. Sensors should only be genuine, from a VX dealer that you genuinely have to walk in to. Everything else as available.
In no particular order:
1. V6 crank sensor (non start, no codes).
2. 4 pot cam sensor (especially with gearbox codes).
3. Breathers (see #4, long oil changes/crappy oil will cause them to sludge up and blow the camcover seals)
4. Cam cover seals(see #3 also go brittle over time leaks will destroy the coil packs).
5. Coil packs (see #4 and also destroyed by water leaks from the scuttle/bulkhead foam).
6. Fuel pump (especially if lpg and tank left low).
7. Heater Bypass Valve (can last anything from 6 months to 4 years and can cause catastrophic coolant loss if unnoticed).
8. Coolant exansion tank (microscopic cracks around the filler neck lead to mysterious coolant loss).
9. Wishbone bushes (the Omega is pretty rough on bushes if driven hard and whilst seemingly simple, quite fussy about geometry settings).
10. Rear discs (available as vented: 2.6/3.2 or solid: everything else, but they have different calipers and not unusual to find solid discs with vented calipers this will allow the pistons to leak as the pads wear resulting in brake failure)
11. Rust. Everywhere between the number plates, but especially front chassis rails, bulkhead, sills, rear arches, saloon rear shock top mounts and rear crossmember.
As with any car, they will effortlessly cover mileage but they are better used than sat around. Higher mileage, low owner, meticulously maintained cars are a better daily driver buy than a low mileage garage queen.
As for the forum, most items are covered by the FAQ and Maintenance Guide sections, and if you go back to when the Omega Help section was 15 pages a month, you'll see pretty much every issue people have encountered.
Drive an Omega long enough and you'll encounter these repeatedly. Equally, buy cheap Omegas and you'll encounter everything. Every time. And that quickly gets old...
-
I think that what the OP will find in this thread is an honest appraisal of running a 20 year old Vauxhall Omega, but I don't think that there's been any deliberate attempt to put him off. ::)
He has said that he's not into DIY and that it will be garage all the way, which is fine if he's prepared to pay the bills. Also now he's found the OOF he'll be able to take it to the garage armed with the knowledge of what needs doing. :y
The other plus is that for more complicated jobs like the cambelt, Serek is not a million miles away from the OP in Sutton Coldfield. Where is Serek? Kidderminster? Huntingdon? :-\ Somewhere down the A14 anyway I think! ;D
-
North of Watford, for sure :D
Huntingdon ;)
-
The point I was trying to make is this. If someone goes and buys themselves a nice looking Omega, with no apparent rust issues, for say £1500, they will then probably have to spend maybe another £750 ? on parts to make it the car it could / should be.
If you add garage labour costs on top of that - say two working days at £60 per hour ?, then your into the territory of someone who is an enthusiast, who knows they are going to have a really nice car at the end of the process.
The vast majority of people would consider that to be over 3 grand wasted on an old Vauxhall.
A very small number of people (myself included) consider it money well spent to own a really nice car at a fraction of what many people would spend on a newer, but nowhere near as good, car.
Im using mine to commute at the moment as the French thing is off the road, and Im loving every minute of driving it.
Apart from the 24mpg instead of 60+ mpg in the French thing.
-
I think something that the OP needs to consider is his requirement to use local garages could make maintenance expensive. We know most garages struggle with Omegas for some reason, especially suspension (which then wrecks tyres) and V6 engines.
Doctor Gollum's list of common problems above, whilst I don't agree with the accuracy of some of the items or causes, does help show likely failure points on one. Take the HBV for example, a £15 part from a dealer, will become a £150 bill, as the garage will probably charge more than 1hr labour as they wouldn't have done one before, and officially you are supposed to drain coolant.
That said, the replacement for one of my Omegas - a much newer high end Jaguar XJ Portfolio - lacks some of the creature comforts of a (mildly modified) 1998 Omega had. And the jury is still out which was the better mile muncher. Longest journey I've done in a day with the XJ is under 500 miles to Scotland, but the Omega used to get annual trips to the South of France, approaching 900 miles in a day.
For the money - initial purchase and running costs - I found the Omega unbeatable. If I were paying garages for the servicing and repairs, I'm certain I would not have had my Omegas for so long, or had so many of them.
-
I think if Chris has been considering an Omega, given their age, he won't be oblivious to the fact that older cars will need a degree of work (as with any older car) and a bit more tlc than a new/er car, even having to entrust this to a third party.
I have owned 60's and 70's Triumphs over the last 41 years, and do the majority of work myself (except welding) but fortunately they are all original not requiring any structural work apart from routine servicing (on a time factor as they don't do the miles). The club for them is still welcoming new owners / members who have successfully purchased a good straight genuine Triumphs within their budget. Not many dispose of them after 12 months thinking they have made a mistake because they have the mindset for an older / classic car and what it entails. Triumphs do pop up somewhat regularly (unfortunately too) because many owners have had them for years and become too old to drive or become ill - the Omega is in this category with (sorry) more older owners, and on this proviso, good ones owned by elderly owners will, from time to time, come up for sale - as long as the OP isn't in an immediate rush to buy one - and can wait for the right one to come along...
-
I think buying a classic is a different kettle of fish. Everyone knows owning a 1970s British classic entails some element of restoration - usually DIY for all but the most wealthy - and a warm garage to store it, and it only comes out on nice summer days.
I certainly don't want to put the OP off, as Omegas are, once sorted, lovely cars to crunch miles in. But I think any decision needs to be made with eyes wide open for the next 6 months running costs, sorting out all the issues the previous owner didn't want to fork out for. This is obviously far cheaper for DIYers.
Add to this that the newest are 18yrs old and the oldest 27yrs old, and the fact that few have ever been garaged do to their size compared to modern garages, finding one that doesn't need some level of body restoration or welding underneath is a challenge.
-
all good points raised and it goes without saying that an omega in good order is a nice place to be in. his problem as we all agree on is that ALL older cars will need work to varying levels and he will have to trust a garage for opinion and quality and ability of work.
this to me is the biggest negative point as not many garages or mechanics will do the job correctly due to not knowing the car or just modern work ethics.
the omega if not already will become a classic of the future just like morris minors,minis, triumphs etc etc ,all of which were once classed as run of the mill everyday cars with no idea that they would be future classics.
that said,ALL cars were designed as everyday transport ( exotics etc excluded) and in a good state of repair can still be used as they were intended.
be it a triumph 2000, morris ital, ford cortina / capri etc etc and no reason why an omega cannot.
at least an omega is relatively straightforward compared to the over electronic current cars.
hopefully as said above lets hope hes not put off but at the same time realises that ANY older car ,even a relatively new omega will need an initial proper sort out and then a good maintenance plan to keep it good. bad crash or fire obviously but nothing else realy should stop one from lasting as long as you want. anything is repairable within reason,budget,experience,time !
-
The one thing he does have in his favour is this forum. Any problems he encounters will almost certainly be answered on here.
Its then the thorny issue of getting the garage doing the work to take notice of that and do the job properly.
-
He'll be on the trader as we speak, looking for anything other than an omega ;D
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
.
We have discussed that already quite fancy a small Toyota as a runabout, but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Thing is with a camper van/small car set up is that you have to tax and insure two extra vehicles. ;)
I'd go for a nice big twin axle pikey wagon, and tell SWMBO that you need to upgrade the Range Rover to tow it! ::)
A nice full fat 5.0V8 L405 should do the trick Mick! :y ;D
.
Got to admit that I love our twin axle Eldiss & looks a treat on the Range Rover & I would like to swap it for a new one personally I think a motorhome might be a bit cramped after the space we have but she wants to have a look so I'll humour her, like the idea of a 5.0 RR 😁
We are ion a similar dilema. been used to the space our twin axle Sterling, would like a camper instead but it would have to be huge to have the space we have now :-X
-
...., but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Mine (Coachman) was exactly half that ..... obviously second hand but it was obvious that it had been rarely used
.
We've always had secondhand vans paid £12,000 for our last one in 2012 but decided that we will treat ourselves to something new for a change got nothing else to spend it on her cousin that died was only 61so intend enjoying ourselves as much as possible.
-
No a mate had one & was very dissatisfied with it, I saw one a few months back in the Caravan & Motorhome club mag based on a Ford Transit very nice layout & with everything I'd want as the driver auto, cruise reversing cameras etc started I think at £68,000 had a very good report , but would have to see it & try it but ultimately it will be up to SWMBO will have a good look once restrictions are lifted , never had a good look at one really may decide against it & just get a new tin tent , certainly not going to rush into a purchase the way things are with travelling at present.
If you are used to slumming it in a Pikey Wagon, you probably won't like the switch to a Pikey Wagon with a steering wheel. If you do decide it's for you, then factor in 3/4k on a Smart, IQ, C1 that you can drag behind it, so when you do eventually stop pissing motorists off and pull into a Camp Site, you can go and get Fish & Chips, visit the beach without having to pack EVERYTHING away.
A proper Camper Van without a small car is just a pain IMO
.
We have discussed that already quite fancy a small Toyota as a runabout, but for £35,000 could get a nice twin axle van , just got to have a good look.
Thing is with a camper van/small car set up is that you have to tax and insure two extra vehicles. ;)
I'd go for a nice big twin axle pikey wagon, and tell SWMBO that you need to upgrade the Range Rover to tow it! ::)
A nice full fat 5.0V8 L405 should do the trick Mick! :y ;D
.
Got to admit that I love our twin axle Eldiss & looks a treat on the Range Rover & I would like to swap it for a new one personally I think a motorhome might be a bit cramped after the space we have but she wants to have a look so I'll humour her, like the idea of a 5.0 RR 😁
We are ion a similar dilema. been used to the space our twin axle Sterling, would like a camper instead but it would have to be huge to have the space we have now :-X
I think its well known that I detest caravans even more than the last Top Gear trio, but is the lesser of 2 evils compared to camper wagons.
- Both clog up the roads, so a draw.
- Both give horrific economy, so a draw.
- Campervan is a pain to pack up, when you need to nip to the local shops because you run out of milk, win for van.
- Camper won't get in many tourist and town centre carparks due to anti-pikey devices like height limits, win for van.
- Van tends to be more roomy, and awning feasible if not having to put it away 3 or 4 times a day, win for van.
- Van has lower running costs, as the car will be used and serviced anyway throughout the year, win for van.
- Camper will be stood unused for months on end, which we know kills vehicles, win for van.
- When on hols, and pitched up, van has a comfortable, usable car that doesn't piss off other motorists, win for van.
So its all a no brainer.
Obviously, both should be banned, and if you want to camp, do it properly, with a tent :)
-
Each to his own TB & certainly not worth getting into a debate about have had everything from tents upwards it's whatever makes you happy 😁😁😁
-
Thanks for all the advice, pos and neg, and its great to know that there are so many wise and dedicated owners out there. All being well I will find a good one and if I do meet any problems will thankfully ask opinions on here.
Much appreciation to all on here.
Chris
-
It's pity realy but the seemingly good v6's don't pop up as much as the 4 cylinder ones .take for example the excellent ( maybee) early 2 litre on eBay at the moment. If you don't want the sound and power of the v6 and can put up with a 2 litre only then you will still get the excellent ride but without some of the v6 issues ? ?
-
The 16v four pot is ok. It's quite rev happy, so presses on, especially with the manual box.
Obviously it lacks the grunt and smoothness of the V6 but it gets the job done :y
The 8v is best avoided... It's not upto hauling the Omega around.
-
The 16v four pot is ok. It's quite rev happy, so presses on, especially with the manual box.
Obviously it lacks the grunt and smoothness of the V6 but it gets the job done :y
The 8v is best avoided... It's not upto hauling the Omega around.
I think the 2l is a shade underpowered (talking about the 16v ones, the 8v are thankfully as rare as they are hopeless), the 2.2 is just about "good enough" in manual trim, but seems unsuited to an autobox*.
I seemed to recall many journeys of fun** raging the nads off tunnies old 2.2 ;D
*The one exception was auto addicts 2.2 auto that for some reason went like a scalded cat (relatively speaking), by far the best 2.2 Omega I've ever driven.
**In that "I mustn't slow down for corners, as it takes too long to get back up to ramming speed" mentality. Which was always "interesting", given Tunnie's love for that American style of worn out, knackered, detached suspension.
-
I suppose it depends how much heavier the omega is compared to the Carlton. That 8v engine was powerful enough in that model and certainly simpler to work on
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
If memory serves, the X20SE was 115BHP, which doesn't sound too terrible, but only 130lb-ft torque.
I think the 16V added another 20BHP, but only 10lb-ft more.
Compare that to the 3.0 V6 (X30XE) and you can add another +100 to each value.
I don't think anyone can say the V6 Omega was a 'quick' car..... but what it did have was effortless power. I've only ever had Auto's (which is the best transmission choice for any lazy car) and the 'lazy' power was utterly brilliant. A steady cruise at 70, give the pedal a small nudge and you'd be doing 90 in no time at all.....
-
Ignore the above. The 3.0 only had 200lb-ft, not what I previously thought was 230lb-ft. :-[
-
Obviously, both should be banned, and if you want to camp, do it properly, with a tent :)
Tent in summer, hotel in winter. Job done. No need to haul a tupperware airbrake behind you. :y
All academic at the moment anyway. ::)
-
Obviously, both should be banned, and if you want to camp, do it properly, with a tent :)
Tent in summer, hotel in winter. Job done. No need to haul a tupperware airbrake behind you. :y
All academic at the moment anyway. ::)
I imagine the value of any stay-cation stuff will increase a lot come the summer .
caravans, tents, motor homes ,
pity all the roads will be jammed up :(
all the caravan and campsites will be rammed full too
nice little earner for farmers with empty fields i recon :P
-
nice little earner for farmers with empty fields i recon :P
No insurance, no facilities...... Better off just wild-camping....... ok, the field might not be empty, but it's much more fun.
MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
-
nice little earner for farmers with empty fields i recon :P
No insurance, no facilities...... Better off just wild-camping....... ok, the field might not be empty, but it's much more fun.
MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
A farmer will still be along to get money off you or shoot you , or both ::)
especially if the field has fresh, four legged , sirloin steaks walking around :P
pass the mustard
as for "No insurance, no facilities" ,do you think a farmer , or someone pretending to be the farmer, will care when you hand the money over :-\
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
Havnt got a Carlton book at hand to compare weights but the 2.0 auto was still OK in one of those. Not driven an omega with one !
-
Thanks for all the advice, pos and neg, and its great to know that there are so many wise and dedicated owners out there. All being well I will find a good one and if I do meet any problems will thankfully ask opinions on here.
Much appreciation to all on here.
Chris
Thats the spirit. :y
-
Hope you do find a nice one ,at least you're going in with your eyes open great cars you won't be disappointed.
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
Havnt got a Carlton book at hand to compare weights but the 2.0 auto was still OK in one of those. Not driven an omega with one !
depending on trim level , a 2L 8valve Carlton is about 1240 kg
and depending on the engine 20SE was 130 HP
the later C20ne cat cars down to 115 hp
a "sorted" 4 banger carlton manual was quite nippy
I drove them for 20 years
-
Yes they were good cars to drive .a few friends had them in various forms from 1.8 auto to 2.0 manual/ auto and friend also had a 2.6 which never felt quite as nippy for some reason although it could have had issues with the multi ram system .
Myself I have always had the mk1 and still have my 2.2 which used to be my daily driver since 1994.
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
Havnt got a Carlton book at hand to compare weights but the 2.0 auto was still OK in one of those. Not driven an omega with one !
depending on trim level , a 2L 8valve Carlton is about 1240 kg
and depending on the engine 20SE was 130 HP
the later C20ne cat cars down to 115 hp
a "sorted" 4 banger carlton manual was quite nippy
I drove them for 20 years
That's still a fat person less than a rusty Omega :D
-
The Desmond saloon is just shy of 1,600 kgs ;)
A 2.0 8v with a slush box would make Joe Biden seem spritely ;D
Havnt got a Carlton book at hand to compare weights but the 2.0 auto was still OK in one of those. Not driven an omega with one !
depending on trim level , a 2L 8valve Carlton is about 1240 kg
and depending on the engine 20SE was 130 HP
the later C20ne cat cars down to 115 hp
a "sorted" 4 banger carlton manual was quite nippy
I drove them for 20 years
That's still a fat person less than a rusty Omega :D
56 and a half stone (360KG) :o
that's at least 3 fat people in my book
always said the Omega was a lard arse compared to the Carlton ;D
explains why Omegas drink so much too ...... type 2 diabetes
-
I don't think anyone can say the V6 Omega was a 'quick' car..... but what it did have was effortless power. I've only ever had Auto's (which is the best transmission choice for any lazy car) and the 'lazy' power was utterly brilliant. A steady cruise at 70, give the pedal a small nudge and you'd be doing 90 in no time at all.....
I can't see the various Poice Forces contining to use them for as long as they did if they weren't 'quick' or were classed as a 'slouch'. Most Forces I understand, loved them. But feedback from the Officers using them would have resulted in their earlier withdrawal from service if they weren't classed as reliable, powerful or quick enough for the job.
Depends what you are comparing them to....
-
They were quick enough of their time... The general alternative was the Volvo 850/V70 T5.
At £18.5k new they were a pretty cost effective buy.
The then new BMW E39 with the 3.0 diesel lump took over because they we're cheaper to run for similar performance capabilities, especially compared to the Vectra C that replaced the Omega in the VX police offerings. The switch to diesel as a primary agency fuel saw the end of serious VX performance in traffic cars. Not to mention the switch to SUVs due to the increasing kit carried.
Driven properly a manual 3.2 is still a reasonably quick car at around 7 seconds to 60.
-
The then new BMW E39 with the 3.0 diesel lump took over because they were cheaper to run for similar performance capabilities, especially compared to the Vectra C that replaced the Omega in the VX police offerings. The switch to diesel as a primary agency fuel saw the end of serious VX performance in traffic cars. Not to mention the switch to SUVs due to the increasing kit carried.
Interestingly, Kent Police intended to replace the Volvos with diesel BMWs. Experience of the first batch made them reverse that decision.
The first driver I asked about them said it drives well, but is a crap Police car.
The workshop manager couldn't keep up with the broken ones. The only real cost saving was tyre wear.....
-
Hindsight is a wonderful thing. And also bourne out by the fact that Volvo still produce factory 'Services' vehicles and BMW don't. :D
-
I don't think anyone can say the V6 Omega was a 'quick' car..... but what it did have was effortless power. I've only ever had Auto's (which is the best transmission choice for any lazy car) and the 'lazy' power was utterly brilliant. A steady cruise at 70, give the pedal a small nudge and you'd be doing 90 in no time at all.....
I can't see the various Poice Forces contining to use them for as long as they did if they weren't 'quick' or were classed as a 'slouch'. Most Forces I understand, loved them. But feedback from the Officers using them would have resulted in their earlier withdrawal from service if they weren't classed as reliable, powerful or quick enough for the job.
Depends what you are comparing them to....
Well, watching the usual Police programmes, the Omega was quite often used in chases around residential areas.... A Golf, Focus, even Astra of the time would out-handle an Omega, fit through smaller gaps, and probably be better overall.
As I alluded to above, the Omega was really a Motorway cruiser, and did handle high speeds very well. I've seen north of 150MPH in a couple of mine (private roads of course ;D ) and you wouldn't even think you were doing 120MPH.
In-between my last two Omegas (a 3.0Elite and a 3.2Elite) I had a 535i V8 e39. The BMW was faster, handled MUCH better, was incredibly reliable, and if it weren't for a poor repair in it's past (rust crept in) I would possibly still own it. I've recently driven the 540i e39, and that's just another step ahead. (I'll accept that the Elite spec suspension is not designed to be thrown around, and the Police spec cars were more planted, but you can't adjust the chassis).
As for the Volvo's, never owned one, but did have a blast in a V70R..... sounded lovely, massive turbo lag, and with only 240BHP, (although quite a healthy torque figure) it felt a bit flat..... probably being a bit lardy.
-
The twin turbo 3.0 straight six V70 T6 with 300bhp and all wheel drive makes the t5 look sluggish :D That's progress.
Unmarked response cars tend to be racier versions of the next size down... Focus/Octavia/3 Series which tends to make them a bit better for hacking through council estates although a boot full of Primark goodies will have a distinct weight advantage over a boot full of plod gubbins.
-
A fully qualified Advanced Pursuit, T-Pack trained police driver will always get the best out of the police car is driving and so often out pace, out maneuver, the untrained driver they are chasing.
However, the yobs they often have to pursue have no regards for anyone else and drive so dangerously that even the Advanced police driver has to abort the chase. In addition the criminal in say a small Fiesta or VW Golf will squeeze through spaces and go places were a police BMW X5 cannot reach without severe risk of avoidable damage or injury to the officers or members of the public.
So, in short, even the best car, most suitable for police work cannot do the job on every occasion, even when driven by a highly qualified and experienced officer. ;)
-
which is a long way of saying "an Omega is a bit of a lard arse ,built for comfort, NOT speed" :D
-
which is a long way of saying "an Omega is a bit of a lard arse ,built for comfort, NOT speed" :D
Bit like me then.