Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: grifter on 06 June 2021, 21:04:14
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Having a Sunday night vauxhall part number OCD event!
Checking the part number 52482602, which is on my radiator on the top right as you look at it, this part number is not listed anywhere I can see, and the numbers listed for rads used with air con are, as in link:
https://opel.7zap.com/en/car/v94/f/0/2-2/?detail=52482600
52463046
52463050 &
52463054
The number in the URL link seems to be like a base number, closer to the number on my rad,not sure if these numbers superceded the older number or what, any ideas?
Thanks
G
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Starter for 10...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291580024568
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Don't worry about the transmission oil cooler built into the drivers side of the rad.
The 2.6 doesn't need it but it doesn't do any harm either.
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Don't worry about the transmission oil cooler built into the drivers side of the rad.
The 2.6 doesn't need it but it doesn't do any harm either.
Mine's has the seperate trans oil cooler in between rad and condensor. I take it then there is a version with the built in cooler and one without, but either will fit?
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Don't worry about the transmission oil cooler built into the drivers side of the rad.
The 2.6 doesn't need it but it doesn't do any harm either.
Mine's has the seperate trans oil cooler in between rad and condensor. I take it then there is a version with the built in cooler and one without, but either will fit?
Yes
Broadly speaking the pre-facelift / 2.5 & 3.0 V6 had the oil to water trans cooler in the main engine radiator and the facelift 2.6 & 3.2 V6 had the separate oil to air cooler. The only outward difference is a couple of screwed connections for the oil cooler pipes.
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Don't worry about the transmission oil cooler built into the drivers side of the rad.
The 2.6 doesn't need it but it doesn't do any harm either.
Mine's has the seperate trans oil cooler in between rad and condensor. I take it then there is a version with the built in cooler and one without, but either will fit?
Unless you buy a genuine VX radiator for your exact car, it will have the built in cooler fittings. Even the genuine ones probably include them now.
It mounts exactly the same as what's fitted.
Remove the fan and multiram/intake gubbins.
Drain the coolant and undo the hoses.
Basically, remove the top cover. Undo the two 8 mm screws that hold the condenser on then lift it off the bottom mounts.
Oil cooler line block unbolts from the cooler. Fold it back to the header tank and secure with a zip tie.
Lift out the radiator/oil cooler as one, but keep it upright.
Undo the screws holding the cooler to the radiator and set it to one side (upright obs)
Swap the mounting gubbins and thermo switches onto the new radiator and throw it all back together.
Refill the coolant and leave the cap off. Start the car and set the climate temps to HI on both sides and fan to one bar.
When the fans kick in, top up the coolant and refit the cap.
When the fans kick in again, engine off. Check level and top up and refit cap.
Restart and allow to idle until the fans kick in again and recheck the level.
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Thanks all for the info.
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Something like this, you have?
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=145521.0
I remember there was one difference between the Nissen's and original. Nissen's is more rigid, there is a "collar" in top of it so I had to saw slightly the plastic frame of the inner fan to get the fan on place...
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Something like this, you have?
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=145521.0
I remember there was one difference between the Nissen's and original. Nissen's is more rigid, there is a "collar" in top of it so I had to saw slightly the plastic frame of the inner fan to get the fan on place...
It's the external autobox cooler on mine, is the Nissens one got the internal cooler? I know you just ignore that anyway but it still fits ok?
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Check the pictures in pages 2 and 3. Can you see them?
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Something like this, you have?
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=145521.0
I remember there was one difference between the Nissen's and original. Nissen's is more rigid, there is a "collar" in top of it so I had to saw slightly the plastic frame of the inner fan to get the fan on place...
It's the external autobox cooler on mine, is the Nissens one got the internal cooler? I know you just ignore that anyway but it still fits ok?
At risk of repeating myself...
Unless you buy a genuine VX radiator for your exact car, it will have the built in cooler fittings. Even the genuine ones probably include them now.
Swap all the hardware from your current radiator onto the new one and refit it WITH the existing cooler.
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Something like this, you have?
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=145521.0
I remember there was one difference between the Nissen's and original. Nissen's is more rigid, there is a "collar" in top of it so I had to saw slightly the plastic frame of the inner fan to get the fan on place...
It's the external autobox cooler on mine, is the Nissens one got the internal cooler? I know you just ignore that anyway but it still fits ok?
At risk of repeating myself...
Unless you buy a genuine VX radiator for your exact car, it will have the built in cooler fittings. Even the genuine ones probably include them now.
Swap all the hardware from your current radiator onto the new one and refit it WITH the existing cooler.
While I'm doing that, I'll change the sensor washers. I've order a pile of these:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/293307509961
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For a quid or so more you would get new sensors. With seals...
But yes, it makes sense whilst you're there :y
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I just noticed the bottom pipe on drivers side is weeping coolant when it heats up. I reckon the spring loaded clamp has lost it's tension, looks a bit darker colour than the ones up top, which are nice and silver still. Obviously disturbed it when I removed it to replace rad, so that in itself likely weakened it. Going to wait till it cools then pop one off for O/D measurement, vx says inner diameter is 27mm, all sellers (Ones I can see) sell by O/D doh! Guess there's probably only 2mm in it.
Anyone had this issue before, weakened clamps on the coolant pipes resulting in leak?
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I just noticed the bottom pipe on drivers side is weeping coolant when it heats up. I reckon the spring loaded clamp has lost it's tension, looks a bit darker colour than the ones up top, which are nice and silver still. Obviously disturbed it when I removed it to replace rad, so that in itself likely weakened it. Going to wait till it cools then pop one off for O/D measurement, vx says inner diameter is 27mm, all sellers (Ones I can see) sell by O/D doh! Guess there's probably only 2mm in it.
Anyone had this issue before, weakened clamps on the coolant pipes resulting in leak?
Yes, several times. Which is why I never refit them to my cars. I've finished doing a head gasket on an MGF about an hour ago, and replaced the few remaining spring clamps with reliable ones because we don't want any comebacks.
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I just noticed the bottom pipe on drivers side is weeping coolant when it heats up. I reckon the spring loaded clamp has lost it's tension, looks a bit darker colour than the ones up top, which are nice and silver still. Obviously disturbed it when I removed it to replace rad, so that in itself likely weakened it. Going to wait till it cools then pop one off for O/D measurement, vx says inner diameter is 27mm, all sellers (Ones I can see) sell by O/D doh! Guess there's probably only 2mm in it.
Anyone had this issue before, weakened clamps on the coolant pipes resulting in leak?
Yes, several times. Which is why I never refit them to my cars. I've finished doing a head gasket on an MGF about an hour ago, and replaced the few remaining spring clamps with reliable ones because we don't want any comebacks.
I'm more used to the jubilee clip types, never crossed my mind to check the spring loaded ones, but there you go. Done a full warm up test, road test, came back and it was little bit coming out the bottom pipe. I suppose just taking them off was enough to weaken them, found a few good ones I'd acquired from a scrappy, replaced the bottom and top ones on either end, the smaller pipes, as they looked a bit crusty, and the pinch points were a bit flattened, all good now.
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Hmmm, rereading my post suggests that I replace the spring clamps with newer ones. I don't like using/fitting them, don't trust them because I've had too many leak, and fit them straight into the bin. Good quality worm drive clamps are what I replace them with.
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Hmmm, rereading my post suggests that I replace the spring clamps with newer ones. I don't like using/fitting them, don't trust them because I've had too many leak, and fit them straight into the bin. Good quality worm drive clamps are what I replace them with.
Interesting point, at least you know with a worm drive clamp, it's tight. Seems more cars nowadays have them, probably to speed up work times, but then the complexity of car maintenance now is much greater than X years ago, and climbing! Swings and roundabouts.