Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: golly on 12 April 2022, 07:53:31
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Hi, I've recently acquired a 2003 3.2 , 115k. It has an intermittent fault; the EML flashes for a few seconds and then stays on and the car runs lumpy. Sometimes this doesn't happen, but more frequently than not. The car has not been used alot in the last 2 years. I haven't got a code reader and am asking advice and a recommendation of a good V6 mechanic in the TW14/Heathrow area. Can anyone help...please.
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Most likely oil in the plug wells due to failed cam cover gaskets caused by poor maintenance of the breather system.
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Budget for 2 new coil packs aswell as they will be oil fried too.Worth also doing the 6 plugs whilst you are in that far as that way you have dealt with some of the common V6 issues and protected things for a few more years.
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Pedal trick it to read the codes and report back ;)
If it has been parked up there is a few things that will require attention. A tank of V Power and a bottle of Wynns injector cleaner is a good starting point. :y
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Do the pedal trick and check for stored codes.
But I suspect it is HT related, so check plug wells and coils packs as above. Without a code reader with live data capability, much else will more challenging to find.
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Do the pedal trick and check for stored codes.
But I suspect it is HT related, so check plug wells and coils packs as above. Without a code reader with live data capability, much else will more challenging to find.
As likely to be cat codes from crap fuel. ;)
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There's likely to be water as well as oil in the plug wells.
Which makes ensuring the scuttle isn't leaking part of the job. Although that's just one the many jobs a new to you Omega needs.
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Thanks for all your rapid advice. I was thinking fuel related, with the car standing a while, condensation in tank. Firstly I will run the tank near empty and then put Performance Petrol and additives in, if no change I will have a go at the the complete ignition system.
Thanks again to everyone and will keep you updated.
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Start with the ignition system. Any flaws will be obvious, and so will their fix.
Ever heard the phrase most carburettor faults are electrical?
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Do the pedal trick and check for stored codes.
But I suspect it is HT related, so check plug wells and coils packs as above. Without a code reader with live data capability, much else will more challenging to find.
As likely to be cat codes from crap fuel. ;)
Not in my experience. Remember the petrol in my (admittedly superior) 3.0l was always old.
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Thanks for all your rapid advice. I was thinking fuel related, with the car standing a while, condensation in tank. Firstly I will run the tank near empty and then put Performance Petrol and additives in, if no change I will have a go at the the complete ignition system.
Thanks again to everyone and will keep you updated.
Do the plug well and coil pack checks as soon as you can.
Whilst old fuel isn't ideal, I think praying that fresh stuff added with some snake oil will cure it is pretty hopeful to be honest.
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Ok chaps, I will start with the Coils and Plugs. Never done these on a 3.2 ( only a 96 2.5 CD), is it quite straightforward ?, but I expect it to be a bit fiddly.
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The flashing EML tells you that it's miss-firing as the only other time that it flashes (in my experience) is during immobiliser faults in which case it wouldn't start.
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Not suggesting that crap fuel is the be all, but it is a cheap starting point.
If it has a tankful of 2+ year old supermarket fuel in it, it will never run as well as fresh fuel.
Not to say that the camcover, breathers, plugs, coil packs and cambelt don't need attention, and not including the suspension...
Start at the beginning and get stuck in from there.
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The flashing EML tells you that it's miss-firing as the only other time that it flashes (in my experience) is during immobiliser faults in which case it wouldn't start.
My recent faulty ECU (when it was on its way out) caused the EML to flash intermittantly, before flashing rapidly (along with the TC and spanner light), with a distinct lack of power, cutting out etc, before eventually not starting at all.
Oil / water in the plug wells in my experience caused a misfire, but displayed a continous EML.
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The flashing EML tells you that it's miss-firing as the only other time that it flashes (in my experience) is during immobiliser faults in which case it wouldn't start.
My recent faulty ECU (when it was on its way out) caused the EML to flash intermittantly, before flashing rapidly (along with the TC and spanner light), with a distinct lack of power, cutting out etc, before eventually not starting at all.
Oil / water in the plug wells in my experience caused a misfire, but displayed a continous EML.
Interesting as misfires on my 3.2's have usually made the EML flash and a 030x code to be raised, only if it's a very mild misfire has the EML stayed off.
Every day's a school day :y
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Or if the cats are getting grumpy ;)
Obviously without any codes presented, there's actually very little to go on ;)
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Ok chaps, I will start with the Coils and Plugs. Never done these on a 3.2 ( only a 96 2.5 CD), is it quite straightforward ?, but I expect it to be a bit fiddly.
Good guide for it all here:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90545.0
Plus something to watch when removing coil packs:
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90670.0
Another tip, for the injector rail electric plugs I use parrot grips to push the springs in to pull the connectors off, as they are painful to try and remove with your own fingertips.
P.S remember to remove plenum chamber thingy connecter at top right of plenum, as I pulled my plenum back with it still connected and broke it.
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Why do you need to unplug the injectors ???
You don't even need to undo the fuel lines.
If it has been disturbed, has the vacuum pipe to the brake servo been checked for leaks at either end?
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Why do you need to unplug the injectors ???
You don't even need to undo the fuel lines.
If it has been disturbed, has the vacuum pipe to the brake servo been checked for leaks at either end?
Was thinking of the cam cover gasket process, but it wouldn't go that far now that I think on it.
http://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=90542.0
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Just unplug the single plug* that sits on the rear lift point and fold the whole manifold over to the scuttle above the brake booster.
*I don't recall ever unplugging the injector master plug for this purpose, but don't have an Omega to test it on. Certainly, you can leave the fuel pipes attached.
For cam covers you only need to shift it about half an inch to get the camcover off. :y