Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: artsoul_no1 on 03 June 2024, 17:30:55
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Hi all
Has anyone got a list of hard to find bits that are worth taking off a facelift before breaking?
Thanks
Dave
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Most of them are hard to find these days. From your point of view its probably worth considering which are likely to be the highest value parts.
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Anything that isn't broken, and if it's rust free, the various panels that make up the shell, although to be of value, they will require careful removal and storage. If you can pin down Andy Clears in Norfolkish, the shell may be of use if clean as he is a bit of a wizard when it comes to restoring Vauxhalls iirc.
Anything broken or damaged that cannot be refinished is worthless.
There aren't many modules on the Omega, but the transponder chip, transponder ring and engine ECU MUST be kept together, ideally with the Car Pass to have any value.
Be worth getting hold of the Car Pass before you declare the car as scrapped.
Remote fobs can be sold together with the remote locking ECU.
Key blades with the locks/ignition barrel.
Book pack, tool kit, lights, door lock mechanisms, glass,
If the car is running ok, then any sensors will be useful as genuine ones are getting hard to find and aftermarket are generally shit. Unplug electrical items rather than hacking the loom to pieces.
Create bundles of parts for upgrade purposes... Xenons, associated wiring and ECUs including the suspension sensors.
Self leveling suspension as a complete set up.
And so on.
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Is it an Elite spec car ? Some bits on them are more saleable.
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Thanks for the replies
It’s a CD but with an elite interior
Wheel arch is rusted quite bad and suspect corrosion on chassis rails so not good body wise
Car now misfiring even after changing spark plugs so suspect it’s coil packs or something else and MOT upcoming that it won’t pass as brakes and brake pipes are shot and a cracked windscreen , so will grab what I can off it without it looking like a breakers yard on the drive
Thanks for all your help over the years you have kept the car on the road many times when I thought it was finished.
Gutted as have loved this car since I got it 11 years ago
Not sure what to replace it with either as nothing comes close from what I have seen
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Might be tidier to keep the car on the drive (if you have the space, and pull parts off as and when you sell them ?
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....
Not sure what to replace it with either as nothing comes close from what I have seen
E Class .... 5 Series ;)
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I recently came across a well cared for / maintained 2.6 CD saloon in a breakers in Petrol Blue, which conveniently is the same colour as my 3.2. It was in presumably due to corrosion on the inner rear wheelarch bowls.
Although I don't urgently need the parts, I removed serviceable parts that I felt were worth keeping that are becoming difficult to find....
I removed the rear diff mounts, a GM steering idler, boot / bonnet struts, expansion bottle, rear caliper brake pins and antirattle springs, electric door mirrors, both front door handles (with keys) and both front door latches and central locking motors, light grey wheel nut caps, front and rear screen mouldings, interior dash switches, window switches, plus pockets full of clips, screws, caps etc etc....being the same colour, I also got the two trim pieces at the top of the rear wings as one of mine has a broken lug (not me! - already done when I got it).
Had it been a CDX or more so an Elite, there would have been a lot more I would have taken, but as it was a CD..... I'd have had the doors, boot lid and bonnet, but it's all storage issues....
If you still have an Omega it's worth saving all the known problematic parts, but if you are moving on, is it worth keeping them just to sell?
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Having broken many cars over the last thirty years, my advice is this:
only remove parts that you already have a buyer for, or will use yourself.
You'll be unpleasantly surprised by how long it takes to strip parts off the car, and just how much space they occupy.
These cars are well down the wrong side of the slope for breaking at home.
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I would agree with that. More than 10 years ago I started breaking Omegas. I took nearly two grand from the first one.
A couple of years later I struggled to get £500 from the last one, and had it sat around for three months to do that.
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I think after reading all the comments I will take what I can fit in a box in the garage like switches actuators and water bottle and scrap the rest.
Its a shame but as mentioned you can't keep things on the off chance someone will want them and after a few years you decide to chuck them and THEN someone wants them
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remember the 4 cats ,catalytic converters from a V6 are worth £300+ scrap value if sold legitimately IIRC ;)
I bet the scum who stole mine didn't get that much though >:(
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Not sure the 2.6 / 3.2 cats are worth that much. Also if selling the car to a scrappy, they will knock the price down if the cats have been removed.
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Not sure the 2.6 / 3.2 cats are worth that much. Also if selling the car to a scrappy, they will knock the price down if the cats have been removed.
they will knock the price down if ANY PART is removed ;)
it's worth phoning a specialist buyer for a price like https://www.warrmidlands.com/ (https://www.warrmidlands.com/)
NOT some dodgy local pikey :P
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Not sure the 2.6 / 3.2 cats are worth that much. Also if selling the car to a scrappy, they will knock the price down if the cats have been removed.
they will knock the price down if ANY PART is removed ;)
it's worth phoning a specialist buyer for a price like https://www.warrmidlands.com/ (https://www.warrmidlands.com/)
NOT some dodgy local pikey :P
Agreed.
Considering the OP is in south London, he might want someone closer to home. Like THIS (https://www.redcorn.co.uk/)company.
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Not sure the 2.6 / 3.2 cats are worth that much. Also if selling the car to a scrappy, they will knock the price down if the cats have been removed.
they will knock the price down if ANY PART is removed ;)
it's worth phoning a specialist buyer for a price like https://www.warrmidlands.com/ (https://www.warrmidlands.com/)
NOT some dodgy local pikey :P
Agreed.
Considering the OP is in south London, he might want someone closer to home. Like THIS (https://www.redcorn.co.uk/)company.
warr midlands is a good place for the price of the cats
your link site is to get a price for the complete car :-\
or do they give decent prices for cats ?
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They give good prices for junk cars, plus they collect and pay quickly. Deb's barely running, MOT'd for another week went for £350 :o I'd need a good reason to sell a sub £1000 car any other way now.
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If was a Pre Facelift (MFL) then I am looking for the black 'Banana' (I think its called) trim on the inside door trim pull handle. - part 90432838.
I have tried to source for a while now with no luck but they are rarer than an honest Politician in a General Election :-[
Anyone has any sources (not from Russia :o which I have found a link to :o) then let me know.
Andy,
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As DtB and Nick W have said, worth getting a quote from a scrap firm before removing parts, as if its "complete" and still almost drives, you may be pleasantly surprised what you can get for it, all hassle free.
I got well over £400 for the Battlebus when the front subframe dissolved. I think I would have been hard pressed to get that from the parts, and would have had the hassle removing and storing, and then persuading a scrappy to pick up an incomplete car....
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Remove, abs pump,pas pump, headlight level sensors, keep the downpipes and modify,diff mounts if good,gbox selector, the thermostat transfer pipe, ecu+ key+transponder, hedgehog, if vented rears, keep calipers and pins,.
If it's got ar35 gbox keep,, ar25 is scrap.