Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: kaisergaragerpt on 26 July 2025, 22:32:30
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Hi,
Im almost certain I have to change the cranck sensor, but recently when I plugged the computer to the car I saw the strangest thing:
Engine Type,4 Cylinder
Ignition Coil Cyl. 1+4 (Cylinder),Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 2+5,Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 3+6 (Cylinder),Load
Is this a thing? :o
I cleard all the fault codes and the reason no crack sensor fault is on, is cos I've tried an inferior one but with no results I have to aim for the better ones
Here is the diagnose
VAUX-COM 120309a - PC based diagnostic tool
Date and time>,26/07/2025. 21:3043
Workshop information:
Please add your workshop
name in the settings window
Selected model>,1998 (W),Omega-B,Engine,X 25 XE
Control Unit:
KW82 protocol initialized.
ECU ID= HH,90492382,0261203588,1267358989,03,
Measuring blocks information:
Identifier,0D
Battery Voltage,13.0 V
Immobiliser Signal,Received
Immobiliser,Active
TPS Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0.57 V
Simulated Idle Position,Active
Simulated Full Load Switch,Inactive
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0.00 V
Mass Air Flow Sensor,0 kg/h
Coolant Temperature,3.27 V
Coolant Temperature,26 °C
Intake Air Temperature,3.14 V
Intake Air Temperature,29 °C
Engine Type,4 Cylinder
Transmission Coding,Manual Transmission
Park/Neutral Switch,P - N 0V
A/C Information Switch (Air Conditioning),Inactive 0V
A/C Compressor Switch (Air Conditioning),Inactive 0V
Telltale (Check Light),On 0V
Fuel Pump Relay,Inactive 12V
Spark Angle before TDC (Top Dead Centre),0 °CA
Ignition Coil Cyl. 1+4 (Cylinder),Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 2+5,Load
Ignition Coil Cyl. 3+6 (Cylinder),Load
Knock Signal,Inactive
Knock Retard,0 °CA
Secondary Air Pump Relay,Active 0V
EGR Valve (Exhaust-Gas Recirculation),Inactive
EGR Position Feedback (Exhaust Gas Recirculation),0.00 V
Fuel Tank Ventilation Valve,0 %
O2 Sensor 1,1205 mV
O2 Sensor 2,1244 mV
O2 Sensor Loop 1,Open
O2 Sensor Loop 2,Open
Air/Fuel Ratio 1,Lean
Air/Fuel Ratio 2,Lean
O2-Loop 1 Integrator,255 Steps
O2-Loop 2 Integrator,255
O2-Loop 1 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map),255 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Idle (Block Learn Map),255 Steps
O2-Loop 1 BLM Partial Load (Block Learn Map),0 Steps
O2-Loop 2 BLM Partial Load(Block Learn Map),0 Steps
Hall Sensor,Inactive
Engine Speed Pulse,Inactive
Engine Speed,0 RPM
Idle Air Control,0 Steps
IAC Integrator (Idle Air Control),8 Steps
IAC Adaptation Slope (Idle Air Control),255 Steps
IAC Block Learn (Idle Air Control),8 Steps
Desired Idle Air,0 kg/h
Actual Value Idle Air,0 kg/h
Desired Engine Idle Speed,2470 RPM
Injection Pulse,95.2 ms
Engine Load Signal,0.0 ms
TPS Load Signal (Throttle Position Sensor),0 %
Vehicle Speed Pulse,Not Received 12V
Vehicle Speed,0 km/h
Intake Manifold Valve 1,Inactive 12V
Intake Manifold Valve 2,Inactive 12V
Torque Control,Inactive
A/C Cutoff Relay (Air Conditioning),Inactive 12V
Diagnostic Request,Inactive 5V
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Dis pack failure?
It's definitely a 'thing'... They fail over time and they really don't like water.
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well new dis pack on the way.
never guessd this would be a money pit ;D
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Simple test for crank sensor is with diagnostic interface, look at live data for engine rpm signal. Should be 300ish rpm when cranking over.
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All that information and no cam sensor data...
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Simple test for crank sensor is with diagnostic interface, look at live data for engine rpm signal. Should be 300ish rpm when cranking over.
It's 0rpm ;D returning this delphi one. Can't recommend
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What's the Delphi part number? Might it be SS10809?
In that case it is an incorrect part. The resistance is incorrect @ 0.59kΩ. The original Bosch part has a resistance of 0.86kΩ.
The correct GM part # for your car should be 90540743 which is Bosch part 0-261-210-131. A factory original sensor will have both those numbers on it. Sometimes GM parts also have a parallel factory production part number, in this case 90494182. Cadillac and Saab use the factory production part number as the spare part number, but it's still the same Bosch 0-261-210-131. This sensor has an oval sided connector.
So have a look at the sensor you removed in the first place, if you still have it? I expect you'll see a Bosch logo and 0-261-210-131 on it.
Be aware that Bosch no longer manufacture these sensors in Germany. They are now made in Slovenia, if they're still made at all. Even the GM special order ones that were available until a few years ago are the Slovenia parts.
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What's the Delphi part number? Might it be SS10809?
In that case it is an incorrect part. The resistance is incorrect @ 0.59kΩ. The original Bosch part has a resistance of 0.86kΩ.
The correct GM part # for your car should be 90540743 which is Bosch part 0-261-210-131. A factory original sensor will have both those numbers on it. Sometimes GM parts also have a parallel factory production part number, in this case 90494182. Cadillac and Saab use the factory production part number as the spare part number, but it's still the same Bosch 0-261-210-131. This sensor has an oval sided connector.
So have a look at the sensor you removed in the first place, if you still have it? I expect you'll see a Bosch logo and 0-261-210-131 on it.
Be aware that Bosch no longer manufacture these sensors in Germany. They are now made in Slovenia, if they're still made at all. Even the GM special order ones that were available until a few years ago are the Slovenia parts.
Hi, the one I took is a OEM Siemens GM part 90492061 made in france. Is not the same is it?
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apparently not :-\
https://www.omegaowners.com/forum/index.php?topic=96562.0
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Dis pack failure?
It's definitely a 'thing'... They fail over time and they really don't like water.
New dis module installed and the same 2 and 5 cylinders.
Could it be the leads?
Regards
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Swap a lead over, does the fault move?
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Swap a lead over, does the fault move?
It stays the same 5 2, I'm afraid this going to be a pain :-\
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Not the leads nor sparkplugs. Could it be the connector?the loom?
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Swap a lead over, does the fault move?
It stays the same 5 2, I'm afraid this going to be a pain :-\
Which leads did you swap?
3 and 6 might not reach 2/5 and like wise 2/5 might not reach 1/4.
If you don't know when they were last replaced, that's probably your best starting point..they do degrade over time.
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Swap a lead over, does the fault move?
It stays the same 5 2, I'm afraid this going to be a pain :-\
Which leads did you swap?
3 and 6 might not reach 2/5 and like wise 2/5 might not reach 1/4.
If you don't know when they were last replaced, that's probably your best starting point..they do degrade over time.
I'm afraid is not about the leads at all.
I.e. I removed the 5 and put the 3 in its place instead, leaving the 3 null and ecu presented the same readings 5+2
This is something else don't know what tho
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Err, don't take any notice of what the ECU says about the HT side. It has no way of knowing. At best, all it could do would be measure current on the LT side, but in these ECUs, it doesn't even do that.
Go back to basics.
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O p c...m strikes again.
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Err, don't take any notice of what the ECU says about the HT side. It has no way of knowing. At best, all it could do would be measure current on the LT side, but in these ECUs, it doesn't even do that.
Go back to basics.
You are absolutely spot on, as soon as the motor started, ecu now says 6 cylinder! Although 5+2 still displays the same
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Is it actually misfiring?
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Is it actually misfiring?
Worst!
Hard start, knock, loss of power, burned smell.
And I reassembled the engine. I'm cooked
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Sounds like you're starting again ;(
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I have a leak in the exhaust manifold and I read somewhere it can produce knock. Does this makes sense?
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I agree with TB, go right back to basics.
1) Is the cambelt / valve timing correct? Has the belt slipped? Lost tension? Foreign object? Needs to be visually checked. (You don't need the tool for this, it will idle and run (fairly) happily on all 6, as long as the marks line up. The tool is to just ensure it's perfect.
2) Compression - do you have suitable compression on all of your cylinders?
3) HT leads - are they in good order and more importantly - are they connected to the DIS pack in the correct firing order?
4) Do you have a spark, at each lead? (You can get cheap tools that tell you if it's sparking) if you don't want to do it the old fashioned way by grounding a spare spark plug on the engine.
5) Do you have sufficient fuel pressure at the rail? You can get a cheap tool to measure this - it just connects via a Schrader (tyre) valve, on the rail. It should be >3 bar / 45PSI.
No5 has been particularly poignant lately - I have seen three omegas in as many months (including my own), with a split in the fuel line INSIDE the tank, between the pump and the top plate, where the fuel line exits the tank. This causes a massive drop in pressure (the fuel is being spewed back into the tank, and not to the rail) and causes horrible running issues.
Unfortunately as TB said the 2.5 ECU isn't that smart, and at best the codes can only be used as a guide - so you have to go back to basics here.
Please use the above as a checklist, and come back to us :y