Omega Owners Forum
Omega Help Area => Omega General Help => Topic started by: JohnM on 09 January 2026, 15:34:43
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A small break spotted by an over enthusiastic mot checker has left me very confused and in a corner.
Can anyone clarify the parts number/s so I can chase a probably non-vx now as non available replacement front coil spring.
I know (think) the fronts should be the same across all 6-pots.
1998 2.5L (Estate)
90540871 from VauxCare (he hasn't got any) but this appear wrong as for a 2.0L
90538931 )
90541424 )
90575426 ) web searches suggest all these for saloon & estate 1994-2003 - are they the same part ?
90510279 from NAPA but non available
I'm thinking if I can get the original part no. I can ask the non OEMs for one.
Failing that, does anyone have one in their garage going ?
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Are the Kilen 20060 front springs still available. They were a fairly popular aftermarket replacement if Sachs are no longer available. :-\
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I know (think) the fronts should be the same across all 6-pots.
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From memory, the original fit GM front springs were different lengths on the LHD Omega to allow for the battery and a driver being on the same side. I believe that the RHD and aftermarket springs were the same lengths across all 6 pots.
According to a search these part numbers are Omega front springs but would require cross checking to make sure.
Reference Number OEM
K+F 774306, KYB RC1539, MONROE SP2846, SACHS 997406, SACHS 997407, SACHS 997713, SACHS 997715, SUPLEX 23316
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Front springs are not body style a specific. There are a few variations according to the engine and trim.
You want a standard V6 front spring. More specifically you need 2 and unless they were recently changed, you would be well advised to do the front struts and wishbones. Haters will always hate, but this is what I fitted to my own Omegas and several for other people. It's not cheap, but it's a they only way to do it properly. The only thing not on the list is the Power flex front wishbone bushes. I would but you might choose not to.
Front shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303900706727
Bump stop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389407894145
Top mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267520937164
Front springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126057776492
Wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388331065649
Rear end:
Rear springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286902588255
Rear shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389362518864
Rear track rods x2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365676388824
It's a days work on the drive, but a garage should be able to smash it out in a morning.
Once done it will need the alignment doing properly or you'll destroy tyres and hate the car for the way it drives.
Geometry settings are readily available on here but basically front toe (in) -0°03", front camber -1°10", and thrust angle 0° and not a second off.
When you add it all up, it's not a cheap exercise, but by the time you've taken the strut off to replace the spring and refitted everything and done the alignment, you may as well have done the lot. Notwithstanding the fact that only replacing one spring is the definition of retarded and dangerous, not to mention criminal.
All of that and it will drive like a brand new car.
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As DG says, its worth fully checking the other parts of the suspension, and doing them all together, as any suspension work on an Omega (particularly front) really needs a geometry (not just tracking) check to prevent the inner edges of the front tyres getting destroyed quickly. Most geometry checks/adjustments are likely to come out at around £100 - £130, and are usually a set price for the check, and a price for each adjustment.
I disagree with the ATP shite, along with many others, and if your car currently has serviceable wishbones and track rods, refurb your existing ones, as they will outlast the ATP shite by a country mile - DG himself will agree that fitting ATP makes replacing all those parts an annual event. In case of wishbones, poly the front bush, and press in a new rear bush.
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Thanks so far.
It is true most of the front is worn - especially the wishbone bushes.
Time for me think if to do (have done) the lot (front).
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The rear springs DG has linked to are for a Dacia Logan. ;D
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The rear springs DG has linked to are for a Dacia Logan. ;D
Actually they're not... ;D Part number from Kilen themselves ;)
https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/cars/part/176/60038/detail?targetId=15328&typeNumber=15328#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/models:VAUXHALL;targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/cars:OMEGA%2520(B)%2520Estate%2520(V94);targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;modelId:1931;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/assem:2.6%2520V6;targetType:cars;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/lnkparts:Coil%2520Springs;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/assignedPartDetail:60038;targetType:cars;brandId:176;articleNo:60038;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328
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As DG says, its worth fully checking the other parts of the suspension, and doing them all together, as any suspension work on an Omega (particularly front) really needs a geometry (not just tracking) check to prevent the inner edges of the front tyres getting destroyed quickly. Most geometry checks/adjustments are likely to come out at around £100 - £130, and are usually a set price for the check, and a price for each adjustment.
I disagree with the ATP shite, along with many others, and if your car currently has serviceable wishbones and track rods, refurb your existing ones, as they will outlast the ATP shite by a country mile - DG himself will agree that fitting ATP makes replacing all those parts an annual event. In case of wishbones, poly the front bush, and press in a new rear bush.
They ONLY good thing about the Atec stuff is that it's cheap and bolts straight in. If budget allows, then Febi or Lemforrder is a more durable choice. ;)
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Front springs are not body style a specific. There are a few variations according to the engine and trim.
You want a standard V6 front spring. More specifically you need 2 and unless they were recently changed, you would be well advised to do the front struts and wishbones. Haters will always hate, but this is what I fitted to my own Omegas and several for other people. It's not cheap, but it's a they only way to do it properly. The only thing not on the list is the Power flex front wishbone bushes. I would but you might choose not to.
Front shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303900706727
Bump stop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389407894145
Top mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267520937164
Front springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126057776492
Wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388331065649
Poly bushes https://powerflexstore.co.uk/vauxhall/omega-b-1994-2003/powerflex-front-wishbone-front-bush-omega-b-1994-2003-pff80-902/
Rear end:
Rear springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286902588255
Rear shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389362518864
Rear track rods x2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365676388824
It's a days work on the drive, but a garage should be able to smash it out in a morning.
Once done it will need the alignment doing properly or you'll destroy tyres and hate the car for the way it drives.
Geometry settings are readily available on here but basically front toe (in) -0°03", front camber -1°10", and thrust angle 0° and not a second off.
When you add it all up, it's not a cheap exercise, but by the time you've taken the strut off to replace the spring and refitted everything and done the alignment, you may as well have done the lot. Notwithstanding the fact that only replacing one spring is the definition of retarded and dangerous, not to mention criminal.
All of that and it will drive like a brand new car.
Added the polybushes ;)
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The rear springs DG has linked to are for a Dacia Logan. ;D
Actually they're not... ;D Part number from Kilen themselves ;)
https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/cars/part/176/60038/detail?targetId=15328&typeNumber=15328#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/models:VAUXHALL;targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/cars:OMEGA%2520(B)%2520Estate%2520(V94);targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;modelId:1931;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/assem:2.6%2520V6;targetType:cars;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/lnkparts:Coil%2520Springs;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/assignedPartDetail:60038;targetType:cars;brandId:176;articleNo:60038;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328
But if you click on the link for the ebay listing, it shows them as Dacia Logan. ::)
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The rear springs DG has linked to are for a Dacia Logan. ;D
Actually they're not... ;D Part number from Kilen themselves ;)
https://web.tecalliance.net/kilen/en/parts/cars/part/176/60038/detail?targetId=15328&typeNumber=15328#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/models:VAUXHALL;targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/cars:OMEGA%2520(B)%2520Estate%2520(V94);targetType:cars;manufacturerId:117;modelId:1931;skipHistory:true;suppressAutoSelection:true/assem:2.6%2520V6;targetType:cars;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/lnkparts:Coil%2520Springs;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100113;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328/assignedPartDetail:60038;targetType:cars;brandId:176;articleNo:60038;targetId:15328;typeNumber:15328
But if you click on the link for the ebay listing, it shows them as Dacia Logan. ::)
Take it up with the eejits that typed the listing ;D
The top mount one says it's for Holden HSV... Zackly the same part number as the Omega ones.
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Front springs are not body style a specific. There are a few variations according to the engine and trim.
You want a standard V6 front spring. More specifically you need 2 and unless they were recently changed, you would be well advised to do the front struts and wishbones. Haters will always hate, but this is what I fitted to my own Omegas and several for other people. It's not cheap, but it's a they only way to do it properly. The only thing not on the list is the Power flex front wishbone bushes. I would but you might choose not to.
Front shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303900706727
Bump stop https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389407894145
Top mounts https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267520937164
Front springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/126057776492
Wishbones https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/388331065649
Poly bushes https://powerflexstore.co.uk/vauxhall/omega-b-1994-2003/powerflex-front-wishbone-front-bush-omega-b-1994-2003-pff80-902/
Rear end:
Rear springs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/286902588255
Rear shocks https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/389362518864
Rear track rods x2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/365676388824
It's a days work on the drive, but a garage should be able to smash it out in a morning.
Once done it will need the alignment doing properly or you'll destroy tyres and hate the car for the way it drives.
Geometry settings are readily available on here but basically front toe (in) -0°03", front camber -1°10", and thrust angle 0° and not a second off.
When you add it all up, it's not a cheap exercise, but by the time you've taken the strut off to replace the spring and refitted everything and done the alignment, you may as well have done the lot. Notwithstanding the fact that only replacing one spring is the definition of retarded and dangerous, not to mention criminal.
All of that and it will drive like a brand new car.
Added the polybushes ;)
Thanks for all that - ordered the top five to do the fronts, wishbone complete as I'm unsure of the true condition of mine.
Hopefully not need anything else at all.
I know WIM? sorted the alignments before, any thoughts who is worth using nearer me (Newark/Lincoln) ?
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WIM as we know it do not exist any more since the passing of Tony Bones. I believe they are now just another STS outlet.
Anywhere with the proper machinery can do it, but get them to use WIM settings, not the default GM settings.
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And as Doctor Gollum says, the Thrust Angle (might be called something else on non-Hunter machines) absolutely must be 0'00, nothing else.
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And as Doctor Gollum says, the Thrust Angle (might be called something else on non-Hunter machines) absolutely must be 0'00, nothing else.
:y
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Even if you don't refresh the rear suspension, you would be well advised to replace the rear track rods as they have a nasty habit of seizing solid.
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Even if you don't refresh the rear suspension, you would be well advised to replace the rear track rods as they have a nasty habit of seizing solid.
I only ever bothered if they needed adjusting, and heat couldn't free them. Obviously when fitting new, a good coating of (proper) coppaslip on the threads tends to prevent further reoccurance.
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Even if you don't refresh the rear suspension, you would be well advised to replace the rear track rods as they have a nasty habit of seizing solid.
I only ever bothered if they needed adjusting, and heat couldn't free them. Obviously when fitting new, a good coating of (proper) coppaslip on the threads tends to prevent further reoccurance.
Have had a few that bent trying to free off... One was on the ramp at WIM.
Without seeing or knowing the car or it's history the advice would be to replace them.
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Even if you don't refresh the rear suspension, you would be well advised to replace the rear track rods as they have a nasty habit of seizing solid.
I only ever bothered if they needed adjusting, and heat couldn't free them. Obviously when fitting new, a good coating of (proper) coppaslip on the threads tends to prevent further reoccurance.
Anytime I'm under the motor (maybe every few Months) I give all the adjusters bits a scoosh of loose oil, then when it comes to needing to remove/adjust a track rod it's (usually) easier to move.
I fitted the pedders top mounts to the omega when I refurb'd the front end, tightens it up quite nicely without being too harsh.
https://pedders.co.uk/details/5851
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A belated thanks to all, esp. the Dr and Jamie.
Took a while but all parts came and duly fitted. Aligment done on Wednesday and drives well.
I am going back for a tweak next week as the steering wheel is a bit off and I rather like it perfectly straight.
Looks llike I'm keeping her, so back with more niggles to resolve in due course.