Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: tunnie on 07 December 2006, 01:07:30
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Well there i was going to bed around 11:45... then a car alarm goes off. Ohh damn its mine.
Now the lights where not going off just the high piched wee orrr sound.... my thoughts were backup alarm battery. cause that was beeping a while ago.
The car has also been stood still for nearly a month...
So went out, tryed to start it... was half dead. Few dim lights came one, spanner and EM light flashing.
So got the jump box out attached it the battery and she started.... ok i thought run it for a while take it for a spin get some charge in there and it should be done.
However the hazard warning lights came on (indicators on all around) pressing the alarm off button did'nt do anything. Pressed the boot release button on the remote, that stopped them for a while but they just came on again after a few seconds.
I then pressed "open" on the remote key with the key in the barrel and the engine running.... ohh bugger the whole car went dead, nothing.....
Turn the key off and on again, all that comes on is the "Auto" on the climate system nothing else :o
Try and turn it over, nothing it barley manages to turn but i think its immobilsed?
So got out, tryed to lock & open it, see if that would re-set it.... now the lock button on my remote had been dogey for a while, getting harder and harder to press..... sods bloody law it was refusing to lock via the remote... so got my house key and started prodding it... must have done it too hard it just fell to bits :'( - i was trying to pull up the plastic to get access to the button, but i totally buggered the button, its now in peices! :o :'( :'( :'(
I have the remote key, the open button is intact, but if u press it the little red led does not flash, in other words totally buggered my key.
Being lazy and stupid thats my only key! :'(
I did buy another new one off fleabay but its not been programed to my car yet as i was comming home at xmas to get it done by TheBoy...
So to stop the alarm going off i have disconnected the battery on the car.
I am going to have to get my parents to post me the log book for the car, so i can apply for a Car Pass at the Vaux dealer.
Question is, if i get the car pass... and the new key and forward them to TheBoy, can he program them up without the car being there??
An even better question is when i get the key back how to i get the car running again, as i seam to have emobilsed it as only "Auto" comes on the climate dash and nothing else inside the car. :'( :'(
Ahh bugger is all i can say and going to bed now, but posting this now while i remember it all.
Thanks in advance
EDIT: The horn was not going off it was just the siren, car not used for 3 weeks. Could the backup alarm battery module take power from the main battery and drain it?
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What a pain in the ass. I'm sorry to hear this mate. As you know, I too am being driven to drink by immobiliser probs on the 2.0 project.
I expect Jamie will know all the answers though ;D
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What a pain in the ass. I'm sorry to hear this mate. As you know, I too am being driven to drink by immobiliser probs on the 2.0 project.
I expect Jamie will know all the answers though ;D
Cheers pal, PM'd him too. I am hoping a new key and a charged battery *should* getting going again.
As per your post... odd about that megga, although have had some comments before about that eBay seller. Very odd the barings should go at just 120K
Not as many pictures on that auction as they usually put on either
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Sounds like your flat battery is causing a lot of your evils, you may wanna charge it up, and give the car a run every few days :)
I agree about the split views over trade centre auctions, but the pictures look stunning, if I could get it cheap enough, it would be well worth a transplant I guess...
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trouble is my car keeps eating batterys, its a brand new Vx GO battery thats been in less that 3 months.
Just found out when paintballing on 18th Nov, that was the last time i used the car. so not long ago, and it was a very long 80 mile round trip.
As the backup alarm battery died could it have drawn power from the main battery i wonder...
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Sorry to hear about your "mishap", unfortunately I can't be of any help, but someone will be along.
Mine eats batteries too, I can't leave it more than a couple of weeks without it going flat & no-one can find a fault..........
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Sorry to hear about your predicament, I'm sure TB will sort you out.
I think I read somewhere in the handbook, if you let the car stand for more than 2/3 weeks you should disconnect the battery, so that infers the alarm/immobilizer must drain the battery.
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As suggested Tunnie, taking the battery off and giving it a good charge up.....will probably sort the problem.
Even tho a tech2 is clever and TB even cleverer.....you cannot program a key without the car being present.....you are actually programming the ecu to accept the new key.
As yours is a facelift, i assume the remote is part of the key, like mine.
So are you planning in swapping the blades over or getting a blank blade cut for it?
I would think the reason for the siren going off is the that the car battery had drained to a point where the siren alarm had decided someone had disconnected the car battery and hence why it went off.
(The car battery will drain slowly as the alarm system will draw some power)
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My sudgestion with the key.....buy one off ebay and send me the remote transmiter, I suspect there is a dry joint on the battery holder which I can fix.
Then fit the casing off the ebay key, the existing transponder and key section and your all done.....
.....I dont know, bloody software lot, always a bull in a china shop approach to problems! :y
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The remote part has nothing to do with driving the car. If you get the car battery sorted, then you should be able to open, close, and drive the car. As for the remote, mine died b/c the battery carrier broke off of the circuit board. Acted like a dodgy button.
AFAIK you have to have the keys/remotes to program them to the car.
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Cheers guys.
So i don't actually need the remote part to drive and run the car? - I assumed the tranponder and other bits were in there and are needed.
I have the other key in the car, which is better conidtion, so i just need to swap over the blade and charge the battery?
Back to a newbie here, which bit is the transponder?
Here is my remote:
(http://tunnie.co.uk/omegaforum/misc/DSC06208.JPG)
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The actual key part detcaces and then you shoudl see a small transponder bit.
As said, get a key off ebay and send it to me with the damaged remote and I will fix it for you....
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The actual key part detcaces and then you shoudl see a small transponder bit.
As said, get a key off ebay and send it to me with the damaged remote and I will fix it for you....
I already have a nice new key off eBay which i was going to fix up during the holidays...
Just taken it apart, i can see the transponder bit
(http://tunnie.co.uk/omegaforum/misc/DSC06213.JPG)
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my remote is alive!!!! - Well kind of...
Taken the remote to bits, and upon trying to poke the PCB board out i used the flat part of my little screwdriver set. Ones that are silver and have the spinny things on the end, and as i was poking it the little LED flashed.
Just clicked, i can see the to points on the PCB which close to form a circuit when the button is pressed!! arhhhh :)
Needless to say my soldering skills are about as good as my maths, so i think i will let MarkDTM's fix it, as he has very kindly offered to do so
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When you changed your head unit did you fit the auto leads steering wheel control adaptor (PC-09 or something)??
I had a major problem of my Vectra eating batteries, would go flat after 3-4 days of not using it, thought it was something to do with my mini disc player.
When i swopped all the bits to the Omega battery died before i'd installed the changer.
Turned out it was the steering wheel adaptor for some reason causing the drain, binned it and not had a problem since.
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i do have a steering wheel adaptor... humm interesting!
I could try disconnecting it, and see if that makes any differnce. Although i don't want to bin it as i like my steering wheel controls.
Forget the exact one i fitted, i think it was an alpine specific one.
Trouble is i have left the car for longer before... when i first came back to uni it stood still for around 4 weeks, still wondering wether the backup alarm battery had something to do it it :-/
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Sorry to hear about that m8 your old key really looks like its had it ;)
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Is there no way of swapping the internals over to a new key to save on the programming side of things.
Was thinking this as you have another key to move it to already :y
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Tunnie,
Ignore my PM, I replied before reading this post.
The car should still work fine, as your current transponder is undamaged. Obviously, remote locking is now suspect.
Power siren went off as battery went flat, that is proper operation.
The flashing EML you mentioned, that means immobiliser ECU has told engine ECU not to start, but could be related to flat battery.
Charge battery up, and see what happens with car. Don't bugger around with remote too much. Looking at state of yours, I would buy a 2nd one from ebay as well, so you still have 2 complete keys, even if Marks_DTM cannot fix that one.
Once car is running, just check its charging OK - around 14.4v at 2.5k rpm
Remember, your ICE and Vibe will add extra drain, even when not in use, as they do not switch off fully.
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Please forgive me for a slight thread highjack, but can anyone tell me if I fit a new remote fob to my old blade can I syncronise it to the alarm and lock myself or is it a dealer job?
I understand that Vx altered the design of the key a few years ago the later ones did not have the led in the fob and this type of key cannot be self syncronised to the older type of system that has the led, can anyone confirm this?
So to sum up if I get a fob with an led can I self syncronize it ?
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Please forgive me for a slight thread highjack, but can anyone tell me if I fit a new remote fob to my old blade can I syncronise it to the alarm and lock myself or is it a dealer job?
I understand that Vx altered the design of the key a few years ago the later ones did not have the led in the fob and this type of key cannot be self syncronised to the older type of system that has the led, can anyone confirm this?
So to sum up if I get a fob with an led can I self syncronize it ?
The remote needs to be programmed to the car with a Tech2. Additionally, the remote fob needs to be same manufacturer as the alarm or central locking ecu... ...usually Bosch or Megamos...
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all the fobs I've come across to date are either delphi or megamos - generally the "delphi" writing on the back of the fob survives, the megamos writing doesn't - but open the fob (as if to change the battery) and it says megamos on the circuit board ...
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Hi,
With regards to Tunnie's battery drainage problems due to lack of use, could he not try one of those Solar battery chargers i've seen on ebay on in Maplins.
I've not used one myself or even know if they are any good or would affect the alarm when set but if useable may help.
Just a thought :-/.
Pete :y.
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Hi,
With regards to Tunnie's battery drainage problems due to lack of use, could he not try one of those Solar battery chargers i've seen on ebay on in Maplins.
I've not used one myself or even know if they are any good or would affect the alarm when set but if useable may help.
Just a thought :-/.
Pete :y.
Theres 2 problems, one is the cig lighter isnt constant live so it needs to be wired in to different circuit, and two theyre crap.
I bought 2 a few years ago, had one on my Vectra and one on my Mondeo and it didnt make a blind bit of difference.
Could be due to my drive facing North East so only little sunlight, but they should work in any daylight but dont.
Pay your money take your choice as i'm sure someone on here will say they are fantastic
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thanks for the replys all.
Bought a slow charger off machine mart, going to charge it up overnight when i get it and see what that does.
Going to post my key and PCB board off to MarksDTM today (thanks!) was going to yesterday but the weather here was bad!
Its stange is gone so flat again so quickly... same thing happened last xmas when i parked it up for 3 weeks. I am pritty sure then, that i did not have any of my ICE upgrades or steering wheel remote control adaptor.
Last xmas it was completley standard, could the backup alarm battery cause it drain so quickly? - Its only a tiny battery on that so can't see why, but its the only thing i can think of.
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See, I was right to worry about not being able to get into my car after 4 weeks!
Sounds good tunnie. Soldering remotes isn't that hard. Thought you were some sort of computer engineering major? :P ;D
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Thought you were some sort of computer engineering major? :P ;D
Exactly, keyboard, mouse and screen training....but not detailed soldering
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Thought you were some sort of computer engineering major? :P ;D
Exactly, keyboard, mouse and screen training....but not detailed soldering
I wouldn't call a remote detailed soldering, even though SMT. I fixed mine with a £5 broad tip soldering iron. However, that came without a mains plug so a lot of youngsters would be stuck right there. ;) ;D
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Thought you were some sort of computer engineering major? :P ;D
Exactly, keyboard, mouse and screen training....but not detailed soldering
;D ;D
I can solder, did some of it at my work placement. Also did some on the mondeo i had joining wires together. But its all been chunky stuff, never anything as detailed as the remote PCB board.
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
Hmmm, never had to deal with a microscope, although I'm of an age where I need the magnifying lamp to do really fiddly stuff. You talking about chips without packaging? I forget the name for that. Little nests of wire.
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Last mad soldering session was when I converted my SuperBetaHiFi VCR to NICAM
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
I used to do quite a bit about 15 years ago, working thro a microscope and using soldering irons that didnt have heating elements in the shaft, coz how thin and fine the tips were. Carnt remember the make, but iirc correctly they used rf energy to heat the tip up. Do remember the irons cost then over £400 and the tips were about £20 each......which we went thro like they were going outa fashion! :o
Dont think i could do it now tho :(
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
Thats just your eyesight going due to age ;)
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
Thats just your eyesight going due to age ;)
I had not done any in ages, but when project B came along, TB got his gas powered one out!! Never seen one before.
Serious stuff that, the only one i have is draper budget one!
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On the rare occasions I get to do soldering these days at work.....it requires a micro scope!
Thats just your eyesight going due to age ;)
I had not done any in ages, but when project B came along, TB got his gas powered one out!! Never seen one before.
Serious stuff that, the only one i have is draper budget one!
Thats the only soldering iron ive got now.......runs on lighter fuel.... :y
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Just been touching up the connections on a PC riser card this evening (and no, not with the gas iron!) trying to fix my media center. Alas, must be hairline crack or something on it, as I can't fix the riser >:(
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Bung it in the post and I will stick it under the Mantis and have a close look.
We use the microscope and fine tip sodlering iron or hot air pencil for fine pitch flat packs etc....200+ pins.....got changing one down to about 30 mins now..
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Bung it in the post and I will stick it under the Mantis and have a close look.
We use the microscope and fine tip sodlering iron or hot air pencil for fine pitch flat packs etc....200+ pins.....got changing one down to about 30 mins now..
I would love a hot pencil, but can't justify it :(
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Bung it in the post and I will stick it under the Mantis and have a close look.
We use the microscope and fine tip sodlering iron or hot air pencil for fine pitch flat packs etc....200+ pins.....got changing one down to about 30 mins now..
I would love a hot pencil, but can't justify it :(
I'll send you one TB for free.....i have a pencil and i'll put it on top of the cooker for 10mins....tho it might have cooled down by the time you get it ;D
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Bung it in the post and I will stick it under the Mantis and have a close look.
We use the microscope and fine tip sodlering iron or hot air pencil for fine pitch flat packs etc....200+ pins.....got changing one down to about 30 mins now..
Hopefully you would have to it today?
If not it should be with you on monday, went first class recored... :y
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Received, repaired and will be in the post at lunch....replaced two of the buttons (one missing and one iffy) plus surface mount cap and re-solder the battery tags.
As a special treat I will send it before '9.00am signed for'.....knock knock! ;D
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As a special treat I will send it before '9.00am signed for'.....knock knock! ;D
;D
Tunnie thinks anything before 6pm is early....
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Posted at lunch time, should be there tomorrow....early!
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Posted at lunch time, should be there tomorrow....early!
I just gotta say . . .
;D ;D ;D
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Posted at lunch time, should be there tomorrow....early!
;D ;D
You in luck, tomorrow is my interim presentation on my final year project. Its at 9:30 on campus :(
so have to leave here at around 8:10 if i am taking the bus! :(
Your a life saver Mark, you fixed my remote and sending it back quicker than its taken machine mart to send me my battery charger!
I had another fiddle with the car yesterday, re-connected the battery and my jumper box, failed to turn over just trys to, but barley gets a full turn.
Interesting though i have enough power for full beam lights :-/
When i get the key back, going to connect it all up again, then unlock and lock via the remote. Hopefully that should get things going again :)
Once again thanks Mark :y
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Do the dash lights go dim when trying to start?
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Do the dash lights go dim when trying to start?
nope i get no dash lights at all.
With the jumper box on, i get power eg the full beam lights.
But turn the ignition on, all i get its "Auto" on the climate dash, nothing else. No lights below the dials.
All that happend when i pressed on the remote "open" with the engine running and the key in the barrell ::)