Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: Ian_D on 22 October 2008, 11:49:53
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Does anyone know where you can buy complete kits from? Had a quick look around, and all I can find are parts!?!
Thining about building one with a friend.
Any ideas? :-/
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Well, they come in all shapes and sizes, so any idea what type of car you want at the end of it? Will it be an everyday car, a sunny day car, a race car, a track day toy?
Certainly the mainstream suppliers - Caterham, Westfield, etc. will sell you a complete kit of everything you need, a basic starter kit or pretty much anything in-between.
Get out to see a few in the flesh before you decide. Chat to the owners, blag rides, etc. :y
Kevin
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Well, they come in all shapes and sizes, so any idea what type of car you want at the end of it? Will it be an everyday car, a sunny day car, a race car, a track day toy?
Certainly the mainstream suppliers - Caterham, Westfield, etc. will sell you a complete kit of everything you need, a basic starter kit or pretty much anything in-between.
Get out to see a few in the flesh before you decide. Chat to the owners, blag rides, etc. :y
Kevin
Yes we would go to a few meets before, just so we can see them and ask a few questions etc.
Would be a weekend car I guess, but we have limited funds. (prob looking at a couple of grand or so)
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I would say get yourself along to Stoneleigh showground on the May bank holiday weekend (Sunday and Monday). Huge kit car show where you can see them in the flesh.
kevin
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
Yes, thats the way we would have to do it... Did cross my mind about using miggy running gear, but it maybe a bit tricky for a first time build?
Have access to loads of tools and a good MIG, so is it an idea to build everything from scratch?
If thats the case, I guess we would need to find the plans for the frames etc? :-?
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
Yes, thats the way we would have to do it... Did cross my mind about using miggy running gear, but it maybe a bit tricky for a first time build?
Have access to loads of tools and a good MIG, so is it an idea to build everything from scratch?
If thats the case, I guess we would need to find the plans for the frames etc? :-?
something like this any good? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260302739274
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
Yes, thats the way we would have to do it... Did cross my mind about using miggy running gear, but it maybe a bit tricky for a first time build?
Have access to loads of tools and a good MIG, so is it an idea to build everything from scratch?
If thats the case, I guess we would need to find the plans for the frames etc? :-?
I was thinking along the lines of 3.0 V6 plus manual box....with the rest from a Sierra,
Trouble with the Sierra is that they never realy used any decent engines....and I dont count the cossie because you wont find one!
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the Lowcost can be good if u spend money on it, Haynes do the book about building it for £250 but its not that easy, some bits are from old 60's fords and others, me and a friend built one for about £2500, but it was great fun! ;D
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This is a good site/forum for self builds and it’s not all Locosts http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/
Also suggest you stick with a sevenesk kit as they appear to hold their value reasonable well – I built a Dutton 20 years ago when a Westfield was still a 7 clone and not much more expensive. :-[
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the Lowcost can be good if u spend money on it, Haynes do the book about building it for £250 but its not that easy, some bits are from old 60's fords and others, me and a friend built one for about £2500, but it was great fun! ;D
i've got this book and it's great for ideas but as said you'll never find an escort now for pennies.
I know they updated this book to include plans using a sierra donor but even they are getting rare.
Plenty of stuff on the web just have a good look. :y
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Don't discount the possibility of buying something 2nd hand or part built and finishing it to your requirements. TBH, unless you are particularly set on building it from the ground up yourself, this can be the best option if you are on a budget.
You really need to know what you're buying though.
Kevin
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
Yes, thats the way we would have to do it... Did cross my mind about using miggy running gear, but it maybe a bit tricky for a first time build?
Have access to loads of tools and a good MIG, so is it an idea to build everything from scratch?
If thats the case, I guess we would need to find the plans for the frames etc? :-?
I was thinking along the lines of 3.0 V6 plus manual box....with the rest from a Sierra,
Trouble with the Sierra is that they never realy used any decent engines....and I dont count the cossie because you wont find one!
I would add entire rear alxe as well - might as well try to use the front brakes and the electronics
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the Lowcost can be good if u spend money on it, Haynes do the book about building it for £250 but its not that easy, some bits are from old 60's fords and others, me and a friend built one for about £2500, but it was great fun! ;D
A more realistic figure! It was never going to happen for £250 even with a limitless supply of time, metal and welding consumables. It would cost more than that to get it inspected, registered and on the road these days!
Kevin
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I would add entire rear alxe as well - might as well try to use the front brakes and the electronics
Problem is, you won't want to use the Omega rear subframe and trailing arms, which must weigh a ton, so you're into designing a chassis around the diff and hub carriers. You may as well just use the Ford bits that someone else has already engineered a chassis around. Sierra diffs are bomb proof and plentiful, including LSDs, which is obviously a requirement. 8-)
The engine and box is a different matter. You just have 2 engine mounts and a gearbox crossmember to bolt on somewhere.
I've seen a Westfield running an X30XE before. Looked a nice fit.
I would also look carefully at the weights of all the available engines and boxes first. I suspect you could do better than the Omega bits and weight is all important when the engine and gearbox is going to be a third of the weight of the car or more.
kevin
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I would add entire rear alxe as well - might as well try to use the front brakes and the electronics
Problem is, you won't want to use the Omega rear subframe and trailing arms, which must weigh a ton, so you're into designing a chassis around the diff and hub carriers. You may as well just use the Ford bits that someone else has already engineered a chassis around. Sierra diffs are bomb proof and plentiful, including LSDs, which is obviously a requirement. 8-)
The engine and box is a different matter. You just have 2 engine mounts and a gearbox crossmember to bolt on somewhere.
I've seen a Westfield running an X30XE before. Looked a nice fit.
I would also look carefully at the weights of all the available engines and boxes first. I suspect you could do better than the Omega bits and weight is all important when the engine and gearbox is going to be a third of the weight of the car or more.
kevin
I suspect the Omega V6 plus gearbox will be about the same as a Pinto plus box.
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I suspect the Omega V6 plus gearbox will be about the same as a Pinto plus box.
That's probably about right, and with the added advantage that you should be able to locate the weight further back with the V6, but the Pinto is a pretty hefty engine in the first place.
Do you know how much a bare V6 weighs, out of interest?
Kevin
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I suspect the Omega V6 plus gearbox will be about the same as a Pinto plus box.
That's probably about right, and with the added advantage that you should be able to locate the weight further back with the V6, but the Pinto is a pretty hefty engine in the first place.
Do you know how much a bare V6 weighs, out of interest?
Kevin
about 170 Kg from memory
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
The car was broken in two by the impact
.. or cut in two by the fire brigade?
Oh, dear. :( I do feel for your mate, and hope he has made a full recovery. :'(
He isn't the first person to have come a cropper relatively early in his kit car driving career, unfortunately. TBH, though, and without having any knowledge of this particular case, I would say it's unlikely to have been a problem with the car.
There is a world of difference between driving a car like that in the dry, where they are difficult to unstick without behaving like a hooligan, and in the wet, where the amount of power versus the weight and traction available can make them very easy to lose indeed.
We all learn that lesson pretty early on. I'd be lying if I said I hadn't done the same. I suspect the only difference relates to the position of the tree relative to the car. :(
Kevin
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I would add entire rear alxe as well - might as well try to use the front brakes and the electronics
Problem is, you won't want to use the Omega rear subframe and trailing arms, which must weigh a ton, so you're into designing a chassis around the diff and hub carriers. You may as well just use the Ford bits that someone else has already engineered a chassis around. Sierra diffs are bomb proof and plentiful, including LSDs, which is obviously a requirement. 8-)
The engine and box is a different matter. You just have 2 engine mounts and a gearbox crossmember to bolt on somewhere.
I've seen a Westfield running an X30XE before. Looked a nice fit.
I would also look carefully at the weights of all the available engines and boxes first. I suspect you could do better than the Omega bits and weight is all important when the engine and gearbox is going to be a third of the weight of the car or more.
kevin
So how easy is it to use an Engine and Box from an Omega, and the Diff + Rear setup etc from a Sierra?
Im guessing the prop will need modding? :-?
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So how easy is it to use an Engine and Box from an Omega, and the Diff + Rear setup etc from a Sierra?
Im guessing the prop will need modding? :-?
Yes, essentially you need the front end of an Omega prop and the rear end of a jellymould prop and get a specialist to build a custom one out of the two and balance it. Not rocket science nor that expensive but obviously it's not something you want to fail. :o
Engine mounts and gearbox mounts will need fabricating. You might come across areas where chassis mods are required - bracing struts in the engine bay getting in the way can be a problem for chassis designed for 4 pots, and sometimes you might need to re-route the lower steering column to avoid the engine. You'll need to fabricate some exhausts, of course.
It's a lot more of a challenge than using a kit that's made for the engine. That's normally just a bolting together exercise, although it depends on the quality of the kit as to how much you have to do.
Kevin
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If a V6 Omega engine was used for a boat or kit car project then what electricery components would have to be taken over in order for the project to fire up and run correctly. Also the same if the Auto box went to a project as well.
TIA. :y
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If a V6 Omega engine was used for a boat or kit car project then what electricery components would have to be taken over in order for the project to fire up and run correctly. Also the same if the Auto box went to a project as well.
TIA. :y
You'd obviously need engine ECU, immobiliser and transponder. You could configure the engine ECU as a manual so it doesn't require communication with an autobox ECU. It will probably still whinge about not being able to talk to the ABS/TC ecu but not sure if that would affect the running. Autobox would obviously require the auto gearbox ECU and its' connection to the engine ECU and associated looms and switches.
TBH, I'd be tempted to replace it with a mappable ECU as I'd inevitably want to start tuning it. ::)
Kevin
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
Kit car would have to go through an SVA test before being registered (currently £185 -- going up to £500+ in April).
Have you thought about a buggy ( at the budget end of the market) ? A couple of us are in the throes of building these:
http://www.funbuggies.net/aseries.php
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
Kit car would have to go through an SVA test before being registered (currently £185 -- going up to £500+ in April).
Have you thought about a buggy ( at the budget end of the market) ? A couple of us are in the throes of building these:
http://www.funbuggies.net/aseries.php
WTF... How come its going up to £500+? >:( :'( - May not be doing a kit car if thats the case! :(
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At the end of April they are changing from SVA to BIVA --- very slightly chnaging the standards to pass but increasing the fees enormously. They have concluded (after 10 years) that their inspectors find the test too time consuming and wasn't covered by the original fee!
They haven't settled on the final fee -- but £500 was suggested in the draft paper
Best bet is get one off eBay that has been registered and allowed to fall apart --- strip it and rebuild it using the original identity.
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
The car was broken in two by the impact
.. or cut in two by the fire brigade?
Oh, dear. :( I do feel for your mate, and hope he has made a full recovery. :'(
He isn't the first person to have come a cropper relatively early in his kit car driving career, unfortunately. TBH, though, and without having any knowledge of this particular case, I would say it's unlikely to have been a problem with the car.
There is a world of difference between driving a car like that in the dry, where they are difficult to unstick without behaving like a hooligan, and in the wet, where the amount of power versus the weight and traction available can make them very easy to lose indeed.
We all learn that lesson pretty early on. I'd be lying if I said I hadn't done the same. I suspect the only difference relates to the position of the tree relative to the car. :(
Kevin
the car broke into 3 on initial impact and finished in 5, he had a severely smashed leg with skin and muscle missing from a lot of his left foot, he had breaks all over his right foot and also bruising to his face and a fractured skull with nerve damage resulting in temporary loss of use of the left side of his face, he may be out of hospital this time next week if one leg is healthy enough to bear weight, he's recovering fantastically, probably thanks to the 4 point harness (some stories said he was hanging out of the car, but he wasnt)
the car had been through the full SVA inspections, which is what's worrying!
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
The car was broken in two by the impact
.. or cut in two by the fire brigade?
Oh, dear. :( I do feel for your mate, and hope he has made a full recovery. :'(
He isn't the first person to have come a cropper relatively early in his kit car driving career, unfortunately. TBH, though, and without having any knowledge of this particular case, I would say it's unlikely to have been a problem with the car.
There is a world of difference between driving a car like that in the dry, where they are difficult to unstick without behaving like a hooligan, and in the wet, where the amount of power versus the weight and traction available can make them very easy to lose indeed.
We all learn that lesson pretty early on. I'd be lying if I said I hadn't done the same. I suspect the only difference relates to the position of the tree relative to the car. :(
Kevin
the car broke into 3 on initial impact and finished in 5, he had a severely smashed leg with skin and muscle missing from a lot of his left foot, he had breaks all over his right foot and also bruising to his face and a fractured skull with nerve damage resulting in temporary loss of use of the left side of his face, he may be out of hospital this time next week if one leg is healthy enough to bear weight, he's recovering fantastically, probably thanks to the 4 point harness (some stories said he was hanging out of the car, but he wasnt)
the car had been through the full SVA inspections, which is what's worrying!
Unfortunately "things mechanical" are often unpredictable :-/
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"They haven't settled on the final fee -- but £500 was suggested in the draft paper"
Sign of the times sadly, anything is fair game for the tax it,fine 'em brigade these days.
eddie
P.S. Dont put your wheely bin out too early.....or else. :(
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A friend and myself built two Locosts total spent was less than 3K. We built from the ground up, not quite £250, but still cheap.
Visit our build diary at www.lumby.freeserve.co.uk to see how we did it.
MK sportscars in Maltby (Rotherham) can supply chassis etc. I believe they were involved with the 3rd edition of "The Book" The Haynes Roadster. Visit some clubs, also log onto www.locostbuilders.co.uk you'll pick up loads of ideas.
It is possible to build one without spending a fortune :y
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
The car was broken in two by the impact
.. or cut in two by the fire brigade?
Oh, dear. :( I do feel for your mate, and hope he has made a full recovery. :'(
He isn't the first person to have come a cropper relatively early in his kit car driving career, unfortunately. TBH, though, and without having any knowledge of this particular case, I would say it's unlikely to have been a problem with the car.
There is a world of difference between driving a car like that in the dry, where they are difficult to unstick without behaving like a hooligan, and in the wet, where the amount of power versus the weight and traction available can make them very easy to lose indeed.
We all learn that lesson pretty early on. I'd be lying if I said I hadn't done the same. I suspect the only difference relates to the position of the tree relative to the car. :(
Kevin
the car broke into 3 on initial impact and finished in 5, he had a severely smashed leg with skin and muscle missing from a lot of his left foot, he had breaks all over his right foot and also bruising to his face and a fractured skull with nerve damage resulting in temporary loss of use of the left side of his face, he may be out of hospital this time next week if one leg is healthy enough to bear weight, he's recovering fantastically, probably thanks to the 4 point harness (some stories said he was hanging out of the car, but he wasnt)
the car had been through the full SVA inspections, which is what's worrying!
Geez, that sucks! Hope he gets well.
I am willing to bet that the car was well-built, they just aren't that strong and even a high-end german car will come apart like that if it hits a tree in just the wrong way (at slightly higher speeds admittedly).
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get it vigorously checked for safety when it's built too, a friend of mine paid £23,000 for his westfield, had it on the road just over 30 minutes and it slid off in the wet at under 25mph, and this is how it looked afterwards from making contact with a tree, and this HAD been inspected by vosa prior to having a registration issued
http://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/s/1067181_lucky_kit_car_crash_escape
the story isnt completely accurate in relation to his injuries, and nor was the car just "broken in 2"
The car was broken in two by the impact
.. or cut in two by the fire brigade?
Oh, dear. :( I do feel for your mate, and hope he has made a full recovery. :'(
He isn't the first person to have come a cropper relatively early in his kit car driving career, unfortunately. TBH, though, and without having any knowledge of this particular case, I would say it's unlikely to have been a problem with the car.
There is a world of difference between driving a car like that in the dry, where they are difficult to unstick without behaving like a hooligan, and in the wet, where the amount of power versus the weight and traction available can make them very easy to lose indeed.
We all learn that lesson pretty early on. I'd be lying if I said I hadn't done the same. I suspect the only difference relates to the position of the tree relative to the car. :(
Kevin
the car broke into 3 on initial impact and finished in 5, he had a severely smashed leg with skin and muscle missing from a lot of his left foot, he had breaks all over his right foot and also bruising to his face and a fractured skull with nerve damage resulting in temporary loss of use of the left side of his face, he may be out of hospital this time next week if one leg is healthy enough to bear weight, he's recovering fantastically, probably thanks to the 4 point harness (some stories said he was hanging out of the car, but he wasnt)
the car had been through the full SVA inspections, which is what's worrying!
Geez, that sucks! Hope he gets well.
I am willing to bet that the car was well-built, they just aren't that strong and even a high-end german car will come apart like that if it hits a tree in just the wrong way (at slightly higher speeds admittedly).
bit like this one:
http://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=http://www.egmcartech.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/03/audi_rs36_crash_2.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.egmcartech.com/2007/03/02/man-crashes-audi-rs6-walks-away-without-a-scratch/&h=600&w=800&sz=167&hl=en&start=43&um=1&usg=__yt5lU-vQKZ1KQBanBaT8ubzTqF4=&tbnid=u3v8R2k2HcQyzM:&tbnh=107&tbnw=143&prev=/images%3Fq%3Daudi%2Bbroke%2Bin%2B2%26start%3D36%26ndsp%3D18%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN
:o
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the car broke into 3 on initial impact and finished in 5, he had a severely smashed leg with skin and muscle missing from a lot of his left foot, he had breaks all over his right foot and also bruising to his face and a fractured skull with nerve damage resulting in temporary loss of use of the left side of his face, he may be out of hospital this time next week if one leg is healthy enough to bear weight, he's recovering fantastically, probably thanks to the 4 point harness (some stories said he was hanging out of the car, but he wasnt)
the car had been through the full SVA inspections, which is what's worrying!
What year was the car, out of interest?
The reason I ask is that I've just read this: http://boardroom.wscc.co.uk/cgi-bin/ikonboard.cgi?act=ST;f=1;t=67697.
Those chassis should be able to end up banana shaped without coming apart. A mate of mine got T-boned by a Transit at 40MPH and walked away because the side impact protection afforded by the chassis.
I just put 2 and 2 together when I saw the damage in that pic and the above thread and wonder if a quality issue around 2004 might have been to blame, and of course that might have implications your mate might want to follow up once he's got over the more pressing need to get better. :-X
Kevin
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
I have been looking around for a Kit Car for over a year, I wanted to build it, so a lapsed build project was the most cost effective way into the scene for me.
My Robin Hood rolling chassis & donor arrive bright and early tomorrow. First builder used a 1.6 Sierra and put all the running gear on. The second owner, only sourced a second donor with a 2.0 DOHC and then stopped the project and finally sold it to ME :)
It will be stripped right down and started from scratch. I have stripped 1 donor and de-rusted & painted all the running gear from a 1.8CVH Sierra, so I have 3 sets of running gear :D :D
I gave the CVH engine away :) (now I have to put somthing else in and thought really hard about an Omega engine (I know a bit about them now ::) )
The whole project is a few months early as I am away all over Christmas & New Year, but the "buy it now" price was a steal.
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
I have been looking around for a Kit Car for over a year, I wanted to build it, so a lapsed build project was the most cost effective way into the scene for me.
My Robin Hood rolling chassis & donor arrive bright and early tomorrow. First builder used a 1.6 Sierra and put all the running gear on. The second owner, only sourced a second donor with a 2.0 DOHC and then stopped the project and finally sold it to ME :)
It will be stripped right down and started from scratch. I have stripped 1 donor and de-rusted & painted all the running gear from a 1.8CVH Sierra, so I have 3 sets of running gear :D :D
I gave the CVH engine away :) (now I have to put somthing else in and thought really hard about an Omega engine (I know a bit about them now ::) )
The whole project is a few months early as I am away all over Christmas & New Year, but the "buy it now" price was a steal.
Unfinished projects are good value. Mate of mine bought a Dax Rush at rolling chassis stage with a totally unmolested cossie turbo (6k miles), halibrand alloys, tyres, etc. everything done. Just needed finishing off and painting. Think he paid about 3k for it. Ran it around for a couple of years then sold it for 13k IIRC.
You're well to get shot of both of those engines. What are you thinking of going for?
Carbs or injection?
Kevin
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
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Your budget puts you outside the realms of the full kit.
You could consider the likes of a Robin Hood with a Sierra as a donor.
When I was loooking into this, the best 7 chassis I found was the Robin hood....or for a bigger engine the Dax Rush. Sadly Westfiled and Caterham had not developed thier setups nearly as well and were falling behind fast (and appear to still be in this state!).
Have often wondered how possible a Robin Hood using a 3.0 Manual Omega as a donor would work out (plus some Sierra parts)
I have been looking around for a Kit Car for over a year, I wanted to build it, so a lapsed build project was the most cost effective way into the scene for me.
My Robin Hood rolling chassis & donor arrive bright and early tomorrow. First builder used a 1.6 Sierra and put all the running gear on. The second owner, only sourced a second donor with a 2.0 DOHC and then stopped the project and finally sold it to ME :)
It will be stripped right down and started from scratch. I have stripped 1 donor and de-rusted & painted all the running gear from a 1.8CVH Sierra, so I have 3 sets of running gear :D :D
I gave the CVH engine away :) (now I have to put somthing else in and thought really hard about an Omega engine (I know a bit about them now ::) )
The whole project is a few months early as I am away all over Christmas & New Year, but the "buy it now" price was a steal.
Unfinished projects are good value. Mate of mine bought a Dax Rush at rolling chassis stage with a totally unmolested cossie turbo (6k miles), halibrand alloys, tyres, etc. everything done. Just needed finishing off and painting. Think he paid about 3k for it. Ran it around for a couple of years then sold it for 13k IIRC.
You're well to get shot of both of those engines. What are you thinking of going for?
Carbs or injection?
Kevin
I fancy injection, may well LPG after the SVA (new version!)
But would like to try a V6, which is the main reason for getting a part build instead of a running motor.
Stelvio is the target, just don't know which year :-?
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
Because its an underpowered lump of pig iron!
The benefits I see of an X30XE
Easy to wire (only 5 or 6 connections to make to the main engine loom).
Reasonably light
Can be sat back in the engine bay
Cheap and plentiful
Easy to get 220bhp from (just add a chip) or more with better exhaust etc
Suspect you might be able to bodge on the existing front pipes etc
Its mega compact (being a 54deg V setup designed for front and rear wheel drive) so can be sat back in the engine bay to help weight distribution.
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
To expensive and not that easy to obtain.
If I was going for a 4 pot it would probably be a Toyota 4AGE or a Z20LET
Unless you went throttle bodies etc, a custom ecu wont do much for you.
-
Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
To expensive and not that easy to obtain.
If I was going for a 4 pot it would probably be a Toyota 4AGE or a Z20LET
Unless you went throttle bodies etc, a custom ecu wont do much for you.
Thought you would pick a Zetec up for £100? :-/
Dont know anything about the 4AGE, but a Z20LET would be very nice ::), however thats WAY to expensive! :(
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You already have an X20XEV and they are 10 a penny!
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
To expensive and not that easy to obtain.
If I was going for a 4 pot it would probably be a Toyota 4AGE or a Z20LET
Unless you went throttle bodies etc, a custom ecu wont do much for you.
Thought you would pick a Zetec up for £100? :-/
Dont know anything about the 4AGE, but a Z20LET would be very nice ::), however thats WAY to expensive! :(
Hence X30XE again....you could get a 3.0 V6 Manual for a few hundred quid which would give you gearbox, engine, engine loom, immobiliser, clutch, flywheel prop.......and probably enough other bits to flog second hand to cover the purchase cost!
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Zetecs are pretty cheap and commonplace. Plenty of Mondeos always being scrapped! Just have a look on Ebay for a start. Middle of the road weight wise (about 120 kg) and go well if you junk the factory induction system, which you will if you want a bonnet on your car. 165 BHP from a 2.0 on a set of old bike throttle bodies (more on the later black top engine which had a better head) before you make any internal modifications. Pretty much bomb proof.
VX C20XE as above but a little more power, and a little more ultimate tuning potential. Finding good ones is getting less easy now though.
4AGE is a nice engine. Compact, light, unbreakable, revs to the heavens. :-*
The Ford Duratec I4 is starting to look a very nice choice now, and starting to become available 2nd hand. Considerably lighter than a Zetec (90kg - alloy block), more cubes than a 4AGE. Good and growing support in the aftermarket tuning arena. Mate of mine has a breathed-on 2.3 in a Caterham. 260BHP. Very, very nice package, :P although it didn't come cheap. 2.0 Ultimately has more tuning potential than the 2.3 due to shorter stroke but 2.3 gives more bang for the buck as standard.
Even our old friend the Rover K series isn't a bad choice. Lightest of the bunch and the head gasket issues that plagued production variants aren't an issue if you build them right. I have many mates who run these in Caterhams, including some with a reliable 240 BHP @ 8500 RPM.
VW/Audi 20v Turbo.... :-* Keep thinking about it. One day...
Unfortunately, if you want more than 4 cylinders engines get much less optimal IMHO. Forget the Ford Essex / Cologne / Cosworth BOA. Totally outclassed these days and a real boat anchor.
Rover V8 - plenty of tuning support but it is seriously long in the tooth and will tuning to get significantly better performance than one of the above 4 pots. Not too heavy for a V8, but still much heavier than any of the 4 pots and this will affect the handling of the car. Noise comes as standard though. :-*
X30XE, as said, compact for a V6 due to the narrow Vee. Not especially light. Probably similar weight to a Rover V8 but much more grunt as standard. Plenty of knowledge here, of course, but not popular in the wider kit car world, which makes it attractive in a way IMHO. Ultimate tuning potential? :-/
The Ford Duratec V6 / Jag AJ-6 might be interesting. All alloy so potentially lighter but 60 degree Vee angle and wide cylinder heads might make it a tight fit.
Personally, in a Seven inspired kit I think a tuned / turbocharged 4 pot is the best compromise but each to his own. Others would be within their rights to argue for a big V8 or a bike engine, which all have their own attractions.
Fuel injection of some kind is a no-brainer these days, and required to get through SVA anyway if you have a post-Aug '95 engine. Bolting on a pair of Webers looks like the simple option but they are eye wateringly expensive these days, and finding guys who can tune them well is not easy.
I had them on my Westfield to start with. Went to a couple of tuners and still wasn't happy, despite a much lightened wallet. Built myself a wideband lambda sensor and started to tune them myself. Got fed up with buying sets of jets, emulsion tubes, chokes, etc.
Put a fuel injection system on it and now I could make changes with no more than a laptop it took me an afternoon and about 30 miles in public roads to get it running better than it ever had on carbs. Range on a tankfull increased from 100-120 miles to 160-170 overnight. I learnt a lot during that process too.
Stelvio is the target, just don't know which year
:-*
Kevin
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Looks nice. :-* Saw a nice Westfield with a Volvo / Ford 5 pot turbo which looked good. Had an Elite sequential gearbox in too. :o
Kevin
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Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
To expensive and not that easy to obtain.
If I was going for a 4 pot it would probably be a Toyota 4AGE or a Z20LET
Unless you went throttle bodies etc, a custom ecu wont do much for you.
Thought you would pick a Zetec up for £100? :-/
Dont know anything about the 4AGE, but a Z20LET would be very nice ::), however thats WAY to expensive! :(
Hence X30XE again....you could get a 3.0 V6 Manual for a few hundred quid which would give you gearbox, engine, engine loom, immobiliser, clutch, flywheel prop.......and probably enough other bits to flog second hand to cover the purchase cost!
Yes I was thinking that... Could even make a few quid, as its got to be worth 100quid in weight too! However my mate is now thinking about the 2.5's as finding a dirt cheap 3.0 with a manual box is not that easy!
Maybe easier to buy a 3.0 auto AND a 2.5 manual?
-
Why would you put an Omega V6 in, given the complications, rather that just go with the Ford V6. :)
because vauxhall make much better engines than ford ;)
I agree there compairing the V6's
However, I know the 2L Zetecs are pritty good engines, and if I was fitting a 4pot, I would prob stick one of them in with a custom ECU.
To expensive and not that easy to obtain.
If I was going for a 4 pot it would probably be a Toyota 4AGE or a Z20LET
Unless you went throttle bodies etc, a custom ecu wont do much for you.
Thought you would pick a Zetec up for £100? :-/
Dont know anything about the 4AGE, but a Z20LET would be very nice ::), however thats WAY to expensive! :(
Hence X30XE again....you could get a 3.0 V6 Manual for a few hundred quid which would give you gearbox, engine, engine loom, immobiliser, clutch, flywheel prop.......and probably enough other bits to flog second hand to cover the purchase cost!
Yes I was thinking that... Could even make a few quid, as its got to be worth 100quid in weight too! However my mate is now thinking about the 2.5's as finding a dirt cheap 3.0 with a manual box is not that easy!
Maybe easier to buy a 3.0 auto AND a 2.5 manual?
Possibly.
Or a 2.5 with 3.0 cams etc to get it close to the 200bhp mark.
I note that nobody has yet come up with an alternative setup that is nearly as cheap as buying a second hand Omega!
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Possibly.
Or a 2.5 with 3.0 cams etc to get it close to the 200bhp mark.
I note that nobody has yet come up with an alternative setup that is nearly as cheap as buying a second hand Omega!
It does certainly offer the best bang for the buck as every other option requires separate purchases for engine and gearbox, and there'll be odds and sods that you need in the process of putting them together too.
Remember: If you can find a pre-August 95 engine and prove its' age, you won't have to fit catalytic converters. Even if it's ropey and you take it out after the SVA.... ::)
Kevin
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Possibly.
Or a 2.5 with 3.0 cams etc to get it close to the 200bhp mark.
I note that nobody has yet come up with an alternative setup that is nearly as cheap as buying a second hand Omega!
It does certainly offer the best bang for the buck as every other option requires separate purchases for engine and gearbox, and there'll be odds and sods that you need in the process of putting them together too.
Remember: If you can find a pre-August 95 engine and prove its' age, you won't have to fit catalytic converters. Even if it's ropey and you take it out after the SVA.... ::)
Kevin
I've got a Vectra GSi on the front that im going to break... It did cross my mind about using that engine (192bhp) but I guess a 3.0 is still better! ;D
Eeeeekks... Forgot all about emmisions... may have to look for an old 2.5 Cav engine then! Take it the mounts will be in the same place on them engines? c25xe is it (guess)? and then just swap sump / oil pickup over?
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It'd be worth checking that the rules don't change when SVA is replaced. However, when I went through the process 8 years ago:
Engines before August 1995 attracted a non-cat emissions test at SVA (3.5 % / 1200ppm).
Engines after Aug '95 or where age was not proven attracted a cat test at sva (0.5%/200ppm IIRC).
For a while, at subsequent MOTs you could ditch the cat even if it was required at SVA because you were tested according to the plate and the MOT tester had no idea what emissions were tested at SVA. Q plates were subject to visible smoke test only and an age related plate was no problem if it was pre-92ish. In fact I believe technically if you could prove it's amateur built it would be tested for visible smoke only.
Things have changed now and the emissions limits are stored with the car's V5 information in the database. MOT stations connect to that and the "correct" emissions rules are automatically applied. So, the emissions information determined according to engine age at SVA remain with the vehicle for life. :'(
I would have to check the current MOT manual to see if the exemption for Q plates / amateur built still exists but certainly with age related plates you're likely to end up having to fit cats for at least one day a year. I think it's also going to be harder to argue your point when the MOT computer applies the limits stored in the database (It's linked to the emissions tester).
However, it sounds like you're heading for a Q plate, which has many advantages TBH. I'm glad I put mine on a Q.
Regardless of all of this, if you change the engine post-SVA it makes no difference, so what it has at SVA determines the rules thereafter.
So, finding a ropey C25XE that'll scrape through the non cat test is probably a winner, assuming the goalposts haven't moved.
Kevin
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It'd be worth checking that the rules don't change when SVA is replaced. However, when I went through the process 8 years ago:
Engines before August 1995 attracted a non-cat emissions test at SVA (3.5 % / 1200ppm).
Engines after Aug '95 or where age was not proven attracted a cat test at sva (0.5%/200ppm IIRC).
For a while, at subsequent MOTs you could ditch the cat even if it was required at SVA because you were tested according to the plate and the MOT tester had no idea what emissions were tested at SVA. Q plates were subject to visible smoke test only and an age related plate was no problem if it was pre-92ish. In fact I believe technically if you could prove it's amateur built it would be tested for visible smoke only.
Things have changed now and the emissions limits are stored with the car's V5 information in the database. MOT stations connect to that and the "correct" emissions rules are automatically applied. So, the emissions information determined according to engine age at SVA remain with the vehicle for life. :'(
I would have to check the current MOT manual to see if the exemption for Q plates / amateur built still exists but certainly with age related plates you're likely to end up having to fit cats for at least one day a year. I think it's also going to be harder to argue your point when the MOT computer applies the limits stored in the database (It's linked to the emissions tester).
However, it sounds like you're heading for a Q plate, which has many advantages TBH. I'm glad I put mine on a Q.
Regardless of all of this, if you change the engine post-SVA it makes no difference, so what it has at SVA determines the rules thereafter.
So, finding a ropey C25XE that'll scrape through the non cat test is probably a winner, assuming the goalposts haven't moved.
Kevin
Ah right, Thanks for all the info! Im VERY new to all this! Will need to read up on it!
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Bit of MOT emissions info here: http://nw.rhocar.org/MOT%20emission%20testing.htm
I notice the link to the SVA inspection manual they used to publish now returns a 404 Not Found. (PM sent). :-X
Kevin
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Bit of MOT emissions info here: http://nw.rhocar.org/MOT%20emission%20testing.htm
I notice the link to the SVA inspection manual they used to publish now returns a 404 Not Found. (PM sent). :-X
Kevin
PM Replied! :y
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
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the car in my original post has the ford type 9 box fitted :y
http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29405
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
Hahaha.. would have to stick engine in the back too! lol... wont happen! ;D
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the car in my original post has the ford type 9 box fitted :y
http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=29405
That's quite a torquey engine for a type 9. :o
Kevin
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i didn't say it would last long,but it fits with an adapter plate ;D
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i didn't say it would last long,but it fits with an adapter plate ;D
;D
.. and when it breaks it's the perfect excuse to raid the piggy bank, sell the wife and kids, remortgage the house, check down the back of the sofa, etc. and buy one of these:
http://www.quaife.co.uk/Quaife-6-speed-heavy-duty-in-line-RWD-sequential-gerbox
:-*
Kevin
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
Off a Triumph - if the engines are still related.
Anyway conversion kits can be made
-
http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
Off a Triumph - if the engines are still related.
Anyway conversion kits can be made
We are getting expensive again!
Remember, there was a budget for this at the start of the post!
Not convinced on a sequential box for a small road kit car....
-
http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
Off a Triumph - if the engines are still related.
Anyway conversion kits can be made
Hmm. Herald 2.0T anyone? :-*
At least with herald wheels and tyres you'd be unlikely to generate enough torque to bust the gearbox. ;D
Kevin
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http://www.uksaabs.eu/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=33824
Saab engines from the 9000 range(B234)are in good supply and can produce up to 500bhp with standard internals,a full pressure 9000 2.3 can be had for a couple of hundred quid now and standard produce 200bhp or if you get an aero engined one 225bhp.Even the 2.0 as above is tunable to the point of the example above relatively cheaply :y
Hmm.. My boss has a Saab 93 (2.0T)... Wonder what he would say if I borrow the engine ::) ;D
And where prey tell are you going to find a rear wheel drive gearbox for that ;D ;D ;D
Off a Triumph - if the engines are still related.
Anyway conversion kits can be made
We are getting expensive again!
Remember, there was a budget for this at the start of the post!
Not convinced on a sequential box for a small road kit car....
Yeh, just a bit OTT! ;D
Can a Standard Sierra Diff cope with the 3.0 V6? :-?
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Yeh, just a bit OTT! ;D
Just bouncing a few ideas around. ;)
Can a Standard Sierra Diff cope with the 3.0 V6? :-?
No problem at all up to a good 400 BHP. :y
Kevin
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Should be able to cope
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Yeh, just a bit OTT! ;D
Just bouncing a few ideas around. ;)
Can a Standard Sierra Diff cope with the 3.0 V6? :-?
No problem at all up to a good 400 BHP. :y
Kevin
Ace! :y
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Very interesting thread :y
The Saab engine is 8-) What about cheap second-hand bike engines?
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Very interesting thread :y
The Saab engine is 8-) What about cheap second-hand bike engines?
My experience of bike engined kit cars is they are great on a track and rather awful on the road!
So its down to what you want to use it for!
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Very interesting thread :y
The Saab engine is 8-) What about cheap second-hand bike engines?
My experience of bike engined kit cars is they are great on a track and rather awful on the road!
So its down to what you want to use it for!
Agree, a bike engine would drive me crazy, as the car will be built for the road.
Be nice to hear the V6 roar ;D
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....
Be nice to hear the V6 roar ;D
V8 would be nicer. ::) ::) ::) :y :y
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Very interesting thread :y
The Saab engine is 8-) What about cheap second-hand bike engines?
My experience of bike engined kit cars is they are great on a track and rather awful on the road!
So its down to what you want to use it for!
Couldn't agree more. They have their die-hard supporters who put up with getting stuck if they fail to change down through the box on the run up to a junction, or if they have to reverse, but they are hard work in traffic - but entertaining on the open road / track once you've got them rolling.
If you plan on doing any motorway cruising some ear defenders are a good idea too. Cruising at 8 or 9 k rpm gets a bit tiring on the ears.
I always notice when touring with bike engined cars that they drop way back on the fast straights. Not because they can't keep up, on the whole, but because doing so is so uncomfortable!
Kevin
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....
Be nice to hear the V6 roar ;D
V8 would be nicer. ::) ::) ::) :y :y
::) Dont tempt us!
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Just found this on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlin-Sportster-Kit-Car-3ltr-V6_W0QQitemZ330279815934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330279815934
Its got a 3.0 v6 in it from an Omega :y
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Just found this on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlin-Sportster-Kit-Car-3ltr-V6_W0QQitemZ330279815934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330279815934
Its got a 3.0 v6 in it from an Omega :y
The large void between the front of the engine and radiator shows how short the V6 is. They could have got the full multiram setup in there.
That's a Huge brake master cylinder, too! :o
Surprised they bothered with a brake servo.
Looks quite a tidy car, though, actually.
Kevin
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Just found this on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlin-Sportster-Kit-Car-3ltr-V6_W0QQitemZ330279815934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330279815934
Its got a 3.0 v6 in it from an Omega :y
It fits rather well in there!
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Just found this on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlin-Sportster-Kit-Car-3ltr-V6_W0QQitemZ330279815934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330279815934
Its got a 3.0 v6 in it from an Omega :y
The large void between the front of the engine and radiator shows how short the V6 is. They could have got the full multiram setup in there.
That's a Huge brake master cylinder, too! :o
Surprised they bothered with a brake servo.
Looks quite a tidy car, though, actually.
Kevin
I wasn't planning on keeping the Omega intake, however i'm now wondering if this would be a bad idea? :-/
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Just found this on ebay... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Marlin-Sportster-Kit-Car-3ltr-V6_W0QQitemZ330279815934QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item330279815934
Its got a 3.0 v6 in it from an Omega :y
The large void between the front of the engine and radiator shows how short the V6 is. They could have got the full multiram setup in there.
That's a Huge brake master cylinder, too! :o
Surprised they bothered with a brake servo.
Looks quite a tidy car, though, actually.
Kevin
I wasn't planning on keeping the Omega intake, however i'm now wondering if this would be a bad idea? :-/
Your choice realy, the trombone setup gives better low donw torque but, do you realy need it in a kit car! :y
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Your choice realy, the trombone setup gives better low donw torque but, do you realy need it in a kit car! :y
If the trombone will fit, may as well keep it but, as said, it's a light car so will not spend long bogged down at low revs when you give it some welly!
The X30XE Westfield I saw had downdraught throttle bodies but that particular setup could have been disadvantageous in the rain! Not cheap either.
Kevin
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Your choice realy, the trombone setup gives better low donw torque but, do you realy need it in a kit car! :y
If the trombone will fit, may as well keep it but, as said, it's a light car so will not spend long bogged down at low revs when you give it some welly!
The X30XE Westfield I saw had downdraught throttle bodies but that particular setup could have been disadvantageous in the rain! Not cheap either.
Kevin
Did you get any pic's of it? ::)
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Very nice thread. believe it or not I'm in the process of trying to build a car out of my old v6 estate. I won't call it a kit which is a collection of parts you assemble. I've built a chassis section to take the rear subframe although heavy still lighter than the original body, presently building the front end decided to make new wish bones to carry the original upright ( excellent braking system why waste it). steering is the next project. The idea is to build a low cost safe car to have a bit of fun on a few tracks. Basic chassis, roll cage, minimal body work may not be the lightest but considering the omega can go well enough went you want it to get rid of the barge effect it should go better.
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Did you get any pic's of it? ::)
'fraid not. There are some on wscc.co.uk somewhere but I've been unable to find them. :'(
Kevin
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Went round to my mates mums house last night, and theres plenty of space there to build the car (Large barn/workshop)...
Very nice thread. believe it or not I'm in the process of trying to build a car out of my old v6 estate. I won't call it a kit which is a collection of parts you assemble. I've built a chassis section to take the rear subframe although heavy still lighter than the original body, presently building the front end decided to make new wish bones to carry the original upright ( excellent braking system why waste it). steering is the next project. The idea is to build a low cost safe car to have a bit of fun on a few tracks. Basic chassis, roll cage, minimal body work may not be the lightest but considering the omega can go well enough went you want it to get rid of the barge effect it should go better.
That sounds intresting, good luck with it! Remember to take LOADS of photos as you stripdown / build it! :y
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For those who are interested, there's a few consultation documents and a full draft inspection manual for the new IVA inspection scheme which is to replace SVA here:
http://
http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/publications/consultationsandresearch/consultationpapers/consultationpapers.htm
Meet the new SVA manual, same as the old SVA manual. You now need a reverse gear but apart from that I can't see much difference.
How they justify the hike in the inspeciton fee is beyond me. I guess they don't have to. :(
Kevin
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For those who are interested, there's a few consultation documents and a full draft inspection manual for the new IVA inspection scheme which is to replace SVA here:
http://
http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/publications/consultationsandresearch/consultationpapers/consultationpapers.htm
Meet the new SVA manual, same as the old SVA manual. You now need a reverse gear but apart from that I can't see much difference.
How they justify the hike in the inspeciton fee is beyond me. I guess they don't have to. :(
Kevin
For "Inspection Fee" read TAX
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For those who are interested, there's a few consultation documents and a full draft inspection manual for the new IVA inspection scheme which is to replace SVA here:
http://
http://www.vosa.gov.uk/vosacorp/publications/consultationsandresearch/consultationpapers/consultationpapers.htm
Meet the new SVA manual, same as the old SVA manual. You now need a reverse gear but apart from that I can't see much difference.
How they justify the hike in the inspeciton fee is beyond me. I guess they don't have to. :(
Kevin
For "Inspection Fee" read TAX
Yep, and given that most SVA customers are importers of vehicles there's a lot of truth in that. >:(
Kevin