Omega Owners Forum
Chat Area => General Discussion Area => Topic started by: JamesV6CDX on 10 January 2007, 18:23:58
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Needs to be a quickie though.
It doesn't belong to me though, and it's not an Omega! However it IS a Vauxhall and it IS an ecotec!
My friend at work drives an N reg, 1.4 Corsa. 16v. He drove it home, pulled on his drive, and the engine stopped and wouldn't turn again.
He had a mechanic out, and it has been discovered that his timing belt has frayed to bits, and has significantly slipped ,if not broken.
So, time to roll up sleeves....
Tomorrow and Friday, I have allocated to helping him out. We are going to stip the head off, inspect the damage, and take it from there.
We're hoping we may get away with fitting a recon head, and new belt kit and water pump. But if needsbe we can get a replacement engine and have the necessary kit to change it.
One question from the experienced guys here, That's you Mark...
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1) What tools will I need apart from all the usual? Especially for the head bolts
2) Like most ecotecs, is this a camshaft out job?
3) Any good places to get a second hand head?
4) What's the timing tool for this, guessing it just slots in between the cam sprockets? How much and where to get from?
5) What size are the heads on the head bolts and what type are they
6) Anyone know the sequence of tignening for head bolts and the torque and / or angle values?
7) anywhere hidden I may need to inspect for damaged caused by the broken belt?
It snapped I believe while idle or at low revs, so here's hoping it's not terminal...
Any other pointers?
Cheers ;D
James
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sounds like a good little project! - I bet its a tad easier to work on too.
Should be getting a project myself this weekend :-X
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Tightening sequence starting from the front:-
10 6 2 3 7
Front Back
9 5 1 4 8
Stage 1 25 Nm
Stage 2 60 deg
Stage 3 60 deg
Stage 4 60 deg
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you star
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No special tools required for cam belt.
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How best to tension?
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Tightening sequence starting from the front:-
10 6 2 3 7
Front Back
9 5 1 4 8
Stage 1 25 Nm
Stage 2 60 deg
Stage 3 60 deg
Stage 4 60 deg
Whoops that should be (I quoted 8v) for a 16v
Stage 1 25 Nm
Stage 2 90 deg
Stage 3 90 deg
Stage 4 90 deg
Stage 5 45 deg
Sorry
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Engine parts - well you are near Harry Bucklands and Twigworth Breakers.
I have had lots off those two places
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Twigworth have a head, but they won't sell it because it's on a complete engine which is 400 pounds
Will definately go to Bucklands though, I've pulled many a part off there in the rain ;D
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Draper do a cam locking kit for about a fiver (ebay)
10 head bolts, each are T55 torx style, 25Nm + 3 off 90deg, the additional turn is just a tolerance and can be ommitted if you do the 90's accuratly but, get good head bolts!
Auto tensioner setup with markings for old and new belt.
Head price sounds expensive, you can get a fully reconditioned one for 250 quid.....
Easiest way to get at the crank pulley is to remove the drivers wheel and dirt guard assembly.
When re-fitting the crank pulley, make sure you get the washer on the bolt on the right way round (its concave and the outer edges must be touching the pulley).
Once the head is off give the pistons a quick check for valve impact damage....a little graze is nothing to worry about.
You need to take the cams out to do this job....not a hard one to do by any means.
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Try engine express on ebay....275 for a recon head with headgasket adn bolt set....just add antifreeze, oil, filter and timing belt set....I would say 400 all in....
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That's cool mark, thanks for the ever sound advice.
I'll see what way he wants to go. Those prices are good, but I'm not sure what he'll think about 400 on an N reg Corsa..
I'm hoping to find a useable head for him in the local scrapyard, so he has more change to take me out for some beers once it works :D
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I kept Bucklands going with bits for my Sunbeam - like posh interior bits, rear wash wipe, tow bar, cylinder head, gear box.
Also Avenger 1600 engine higher power version#
As to Twigworth I have had 3 axles* off them and a wheel cover for the Carlton
* 1 for when Mum had an Avenger Estate# which was under geared when we replaced the blown 1300 with a highish powered 1600
1 for the Sunbeam after reengining, and another 2 years later to replace the first after it blew the pinion.
Scrapyards kept me on the roads for years, used to be a decent one near Worcesters Norton - had a set of double valve spring caps and cam chain [lus push rods from there!
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I gave a mate with a C16XE-engined Nova, there was a timing problem on that too, not sure how or when though as we were careful fitting the belt properly when it was changed!
Engine did start, but didn't run too well ... turned out that the inlet valves were bent on no. 3 cylinder - but only a compression test showed this, when the head was removed the valves *looked* OK - but when removed and placed on a flat surface next to each other they formed a nice 'V' :)
... so if you don't replace the head initially and it doesn't run perfectly, bear that in mind !!
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James - PM sent + private e-mail with a PDF attatchment.